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THE 



GREAT RIVER; 

EMBRACING 

AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OP THE 

Miiue ^cui|ce n^ tl^e ]V[ississippi, 

TOGETHER WITH 

VIEWS, DESCRIPTIVE AND PICTORIAL, OF THE CITIES, TOWNS, 

VILLAGES AND SCENERY ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER, AS 

SEEN DURING A CANOE VOYAGE OF OVER THREE 

THOUSAND MILES FROM ITS HEAD WATERS 

TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. 



By l^ 

CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, 

Autbor of "Soldiers of the Saddle," "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape," "Battles for the 

Union," "Heroes of Three Wars," "Peculiarities of American Cities," 

"Ocean to Ocean on Horseback," etc. 



MUu^txU^A. 






PHILADELPHIA : ^ , ,,^ 

HUBBARD BROTHERS, PLiBLisiffife" 




723 Chestnut Street 
1891. 



/^Oj 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by 

WILLARD GLAZIER, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 






^ POPULAR ^TVORKS ^^-^ 

OF 

dApTAIM WILLAI(D IjLAZIEI^, 

The Soldier- Author. 



I. Soldiers of the Saddle. 
II. Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape. 

III. Battles for the Union. 

IV. Heroes of Three Wars. 

V. Peculiarities of American Cities. 
VI. Down the Great River. 
VII. Ocean to Ocean on Horseback. 



Captain Glazier's works are growing more and more 
popular every day. Their delineations of social, mili- 
tary and frontip.r life, constantly varying scenes, and 
deeply interesting stories, combine to place their writer 
in the front rank of American authors. 



SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. 

PERSONS DESIRING AGENCIES FOR ANT OF CAPTAIN GLA- 
ZIER'S BOOKS SHOXILD ADDRESS 

m THE PUBLISHERS. ©^ 



Hon. Charles P. Daly, LL. D. 

PRESIDENT 

OF THE 

=/Tmepicar[ Qeographical Society; 

As A Tribute of Respect 

For His Eminent Public Services; 

And His Lifelong Devotion to the Cause of 

OEOGRAPHICAL SCIENCE; 

®:i)is boinme 

is dedicated 

BY 

TnEi Author, 



Introduction. 




'HE discovery of the Mississippi is very 
generally ascribed to Ferdinand De Soto, 
who, in his adventurous march in pur- 
-^ suit of gold and glory, reached the Great 
E-iver in April, 1541, near the site of the 
present city of Natchez. Worn out with 
fatigue and humiliated by his many disappoint- 
ments, he died on its banks, and found his final 
resting-place in its deptlis. 

Discovery in the Valley of the Mississippi rested 
for nearly a hundred years after the death of De Soto, 
when the zealous Jesuit missionary. Father James Mar- 
quette, accompanied by Sieur Joliet, proceeded from 
Michilimackinac to the head waters of Fox River, then 
by portages into the Wisconsin, and descended that 
stream to its confluence with the Mississippi in 1673. 
Thoroughly exploring the Mississippi as far as the 
mouth of the Arkansas, Marquette began his return 
voyage to Canada, but after enduring many privations 
and hardships among the Indians fell a prey to ma- 
laria contracted on the Lower Mississippi, died and 
was buried on the western shore of Lake Michigan. 

Robert de La Salle, following in the footsteps of 
Marquette, sailed from Rochelle, France, on his first 
voyage to the New World, in the summer of 1678; 
lauded at Quebec in September, and in the s})ring of 

vii 



viii INTRODUCTION. 

1679 ascended the Niagara River and, traversing 
Lakes Erie, Saint Clair and Huron, reached Michil- 
imackinac the latter part of August. From this point 
he proceeded in a southerly direction to Lake Michi- 
gan and erected on its banks a fort in the territory of 
the Miamis. In 1680, we find him at Fort Fron- 
tenac, on Lake Ontario, and in the autumn of 1681, he 
descended the Mississippi from the mouth of the 
Illinois Eiver on his way to the Gulf of Mexico, reach- 
ing it April seventh, 1682. Soon afterward he re- 
turned to France by way of Quebec. 

La Salle left France on his second expedition in 
July, 1684, reached the Gulf of Mexico in the follow- 
ing February, founded a settlement on the Bay of 
Saint Louis, and during his voyage to Canada was 
assassinated by his own men. The command of the 
expedition and the account of his explorations devolved 
upon his lieutenant, the Chevalier Tonti. 

When La Salle led his first expedition to the Mis- 
sissippi, Father Louis Hennepin, who had accompanied 
him from France, was sent northward with three 
voyageurs to explore its head waters. After ascending 
the Mississippi one hundred and fifty leagues above 
the junction of the Illinois, they were taken prisoners 
by the Indians and carried into captivity towards the 
the source of the river in a journey of nineteen days. 
Being set at liberty they descended the stream and 
returned to Canada. Hennepin subsequently pub- 
lished an account of his explorations and advent- 
ures which tended to throw considerable light upon 
the Indian tribes he had encountered, and the regions 
he had traversed. 

In 1683, Baron La Hon tan, an unfrocked monk 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

and subsequently an officer of the French arm}^^ 
arrived at Quebec. During the four years of his 
military service in Canada, he was stationed for a time 
at Michilimackinac, where, in 1688, he first heard of 
the death of La Salle. Being commissioned to con- 
tinue the work of exploration begun by Marquette, 
La Salle and Hennepin, he proceeded to Green Bay and 
passed through the Fox and Wisconsin rivers to the 
Mississippi in 1689. The highly colored stories of his 
observations and adventures related by this explorer 
rival the tales of Munchausen, and lead the reader to 
question the credibility of his published accounts. 

For a period of one hundred and fourteen years 
succeeding the explorations of La Hontan, the Great 
River was seldom visited by white men. Charlevoix, 
who had been commissioned as the historian of New 
France, landed at Quebec in 1721 and, passing through 
the lakes, descended the Illinois and Mississippi to 
New Orleans. 

Captain Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, 
who had served several years in the provincial army, 
gave some attention to the Upper Mississippi in 1766. 
By his courage and invincible daring among the 
Indians he acquired a powerful influence over them ; 
was elected by the Sioux to the chieftainship of a tribe, 
and given a vast tract of land, which, however, the 
British government declined to ratify. The fate of 
Carver cannot but elicit our warmest sympathies. 
His gallant services as a soldier and his zealous work 
in the field of exploration should have insured for 
him from his king a respectable competency; but, 
on the contrary, he was suffered to feel the annoy- 
jinces of poverty, and died of want in the city of 



X INTRODUCTION. 

London, where, for a long time previous to his death, 
he endured greater privations thar. had fallen to his lot 
in the American wilderness. 

From 1769 to 1793 several enterprising travelers 
carried forward the work of exploration in the New 
World. During these years Samuel Hearne made a 
journey from Hudson's Bay to the Coppermine River, 
and McKenzie performed a voyage to the Pacific 
Ocean. Nothing, how^ever, was done in the direction 
of the Mississippi after the return of Carver, until 
1805, when Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery Pike, a 
brave and accomplished young officer of our regular 
army, was ordered by General Wilkinson, then in com- 
mand of the Department of Louisiana, to proceed to the 
head waters of the river and continue the exploration. 

Pike started from Bellefontaine, Missouri, with a 
force of twenty men, in August, 1805. Knowing com- 
paratively little of the climate of the region he was 
about to visit, having no interpreter or guides, he 
labored under many disadvantages. Winter overtook 
him when he had reached a point only one hundred 
and twenty miles north of Saint Anthony Falls. Here 
he built a block-house and, leaving a detachment of his 
men in charge of a sergeant, pushed forward with 
snow-shoes and sledges as far as Cass Lake, then 
known to the agents of the North-west British Fur 
Company as Upper Red Cedar Lake. 

It appears from the narrative of Lieutenant Pike's 
expedition that he derived his information of the 
topography of the country chiefly from representa- 
tives of the North-west Fur Company, on whom he 
seems to have relied largely for assistance in the de- 
lineation of maps. These fur-traders led him to a 



INTBODUCTIOlSr. XI 

wrong impression concerning the source of the Missis- 
sippi, Avhich he located in Turtle Lake. Having, as 
he supposed, accomplished the object of his mission, 
Pike returned to Bellefontaine, and subsequently 
published an account of his expedition and its results. 

General Lewis Cass, of Michigan, an eminent sol- 
dier and statesman, organized an expedition at De^ 
troit and led it up the Detroit River and through 
the lakes to the Mississippi in the spring and summer 
of 1820. Like his predecessor, Lieutenant Pike, 
General Cass reached the Mississippi too late in the 
season to penetrate to its ultimate source. His ex- 
ploration rested in the lake which now bears his name 
and which had been previously visited by Pike. 
Having on his staff several gentlemen of scientific 
attainments, the Cass expedition was distinguished by 
its attention to the peculiar characteristics of the In- 
dian tribes and the botany, mineralogy, and meteor- 
ology of the regions traversed. 

Passing over the expedition of Beltrami and his sup- 
posed discovery in 1823, we find that early in the spring 
of 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, who had accompanied 
General Cass in 1820, was commissioned by the Gov- 
ernment to proceed to the Upper Mississippi, make cer- 
tain treaties with the Indians and carry forward the work 
of exploration, if possible, to its fountain-head. Fully 
equipped, and with an officer of the regular army to com- 
mand his escort, Schoolcraft arrived at Cass Lake on the 
tenth of July. Pushing forward with small canoes he 
reached Lake Itasca three days later. Evidently sat- 
isfied that he had found the object of his search, and 
having an appointment to meet Indians in council at 
the mouth of Crow Wing River, Schoolcraft neglected 



Xii INTR OD UCTION. 

to coast Itasca for its feeders, and thus missed the goal 
he had so industriously sought. 

Jean Nicolas Nicollet, who succeeded Schoolcraft in 
Mississippi exploration, was a native of France, and 
came to America in 1832. His first visit to the head 
waters of the Mississippi was entirely unofficial and 
made in the interests of science. Having attracted 
the attention of our Government, he was sent at the 
head of an expedition to the same region in 1836. 
This eminent explorer appears, from his maps and the 
narrative of his expedition, to have overlooked the 
main stream entering the south-western arm of Lake 
Itasca, and to have accepted conclusively the statements 
of those who had preceded him. 

Satisfied that the work of exploration at the head 
waters of the Mississippi had been completed by 
Schoolcraft and Nicollet, nothing further was at- 
tempted in this quarter, with the exception of a partial 
survey, from 1836 to 1881, an interval of forty- 
five years, when in the latter year the question of the 
fountain-head of the Great Hiver was again revived, and 
a hitherto unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca was 
located by the author of this volume 'as the primal 
reservoir — the True Source of the Father op 
Waters. 

WILLARD GLAZIER. 

November 24, 1886. 



Contents. 

CHAPTER I. 

THE OLD EXPLORERS. 

De Soto, Marquette, La Salle and Hennepin. — Pike, BeUrami, 
Schoolcraft and Nicollet. — Lake Itasca. — Other Lakes. — A Field 
for Exploration. — The Author Proceeds to Saint Paul. — Prepares 
for an Expedition to the Head Waters of the Mississippi. — 
Journey to Brainerd. — Topography of the Country. — Extra Sup> 
plies. — Leech Lake. — Kabekanka Eiver 29 

CHAPTER II. 

THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. 

En Route to the Head Waters of the Great River. — Impenetrable 
Underbrush. — A Rough Road. — Half-way Houses. — Gull Lake. — 
Wandering Indians. — Hole-in-the-day. — Little Crow. — John Mona- 
han. — Aboriginal Conflicts. — Reuben Gray. — Dinner at Gull 
, Lake. — Ride to Pine River. — Huge Logs and Boulders. — George 
Barclay. — Characteristics of Indians. — Fourteen Mile Lake. — 
First Meal in Open Air, — Exuberant Spirits. — Gauging the Ra- 
tions. — Duck-shooting. — Birch-bark Canoes Capsized. — Resolved 
on more Caution. — Journey Continued , , • , . 32 

CHAPTER HI. 

HOME OP THE CHIPPEWAS. 

Arrival at Leech Lake. — Log-cabin Hotel. — Fresh Fish and Flap- 
jacks. — Canadian Fur-traders. — Indian Agency. — Major Rufle, — • 
Paul Beaulieu. — White Cloud. — Pioneer History.— Sioux and Chip- 
pewas. — Domestic Habits of Indians. — Secure an Interpreter and 
Gui d es. — Birch-bark Canoes. — Flat-mouth . — Cheno wagesic. — Din- 
ner with Flat Mouth. — Rev. Edwin Benedict. — Theory of Paul Beau- 
lieu as to the Source of the Mississippi.— Diversity of Opinion 38 

xiii 



XIV CONTENTS, 

CHAPTER IV. 

EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 

A- Council. — Chenowagesic Draws a Map. — Canoes. — Distribution of 
Luggage. — Embark on Leech Lake.— Mating a Portage. — Kabe- 
kanka River. — Trolling for Fish. — Encampment. — Clouds of Mos- 
quitoes. — Strike Tents. — Launch Canoes. — Lake Garfield. — Packing 
Traps. — Indians Carry Canoes. — More Mosquitoes. — Gabekanazeba 
River. — Astir at Dawn. — Naming Lakes. — Blue Berries.— Wolf and 
Deer. — Shooting Ducks. — De Soto River. — Short Rations. — Ammu- 
nition Lost. — Rigid Economy. — Portage. — Height of Land. — Flocks 
of Pigeons. — Wild Strawberries. — Lake Itasca. — Schoolcraft Isl- 
and 49 

CHAPTER V. 

TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

Exhausting Portages. — Empty Haversacks. — Coasting Itasca for its 
Feeders. — A Talk with Chenowagesic. — Infant Mississippi. — A 
Beautiful Lake. — Source of the Great River. — Description of Primal 
Reservoir. — Three Feeders. — Lake Alice. — A Geographical Error 
Corrected. — A Surprise. — Pokegama. — Chenowagesic Speaks. — 
Latitude and Altitude of Source. — Length of the Mississippi. — Mean 
Descent 68 

CHAPTER VI. 

DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

First Day.—" Now for the Gulf of Mexico ! "—Return to Itasca. — 
A Bald Eagle. — Short Rations. — Outlet of Itasca. — Obstructions. — 
Narrow Gorges. — Savannas. — Wild Rice. — Camp Discovery. — Mar- 
quette River. — Gna wings of Hunger. — Mosquitoes. Second Day. 
— Exploring for Breakfast. — Descending the Stream. — The Dis- 
covery. — The Alice. — The Itasca. — Shoot an Otter. — Two Ducks 
Shot and Two Captured. — A Light Breakfast. — Drift and 
Boulders. — All Hands Clear the Way. — Hunger and Fatigue. — The 
Otter Roasted for Supper. — Small and Poor. — Advanced only 
Fifteen Miles. — Camp Otter 77 

CHAPTER VII. 

PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. 

Third Day. — Blue Berries. — Chain of Rapids. — Kakabikons Falls. — 
A Capsize and a Loss. — Joliet River. — Hunger, Gaunt and Stern.— 
Four Ducks Shot. — Disembark and Pitch Tents. — Camp Hunger.-' 



CONTENTS. XV 

Ducks Reserved for Breakfast. Fourth Day. — Paddles Eesumed. 
— An Old Duck. — La Salle River. — A Deer. — A Wasted Shot. — Ex- 
hausted. — Halt for Rest. — Two Ducks and a Mud-Turtle. — Wild 
Rice. — Savannas. — Pinidiwin River. — Wild Geese out of Range.-~ 
Camp Starvation ......... 86 

CHAPTER VIII. 

BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 

Fifth Day. — Struck Tents at Sunrise. — Two Ducks and a Muskrat. 
— All Hands Very Weak. — Meet a Canoe. — Fish and Sugar. — Lake 
Marquette.— Lake Bemidji. — Camp Relief. — Trading-post Aban- 
doned. — Empty Larder Again. Sixth Day. — Re-embark. — Two 
Small Ducks. — Cass Lake. — A Few Dried Fish. — Camp Chippewa. 
— Foraging. — Corn and Potatoes. — Aboriginal Generosity. — We 
Help Ourselves. — Description of Cass Lake. — Lieutenant Pike. — ■ 
Governor Cass. Seventh Day. — Cabin of Missionary. — Up at 
Daybreak. — Roasting Potatoes. — Meet Some Indians. — Dried Veni- 
son. — Lake Winnibegoshish. — Strong Wind. — Nearly Swamped. — 
Strike the Beach. — Kitchinodin. — Cordial Reception. — Wind- 
bound. — Indian Character. — A Good Dinner for All Hands. — 
Kitchinodin Asks a Blessing. — A Walk Through the Village. — 
Description of Lake Winnibegoshish 95 

CHAPTER IX. 

HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 

Eighth Day. — Home of Kitchinodin. — Religion of the Chippewas. — 
The Great Spirit. — The Evil Spirit. — Invoking the Deity. — Polyga- 
my. — Education. — Luck. — Fasting. — Females Degraded. — Origin of 
the Chippewas. — A Future State. — False Traditions. — Inter-mar- 
riages. — Courtship. — Power of Husband over Wife. — Funerals. — In- 
vocations to Deceased. — Grief. — Parting with Chenowagesic. — 
Happy Hunting-grounds 105 

CHAPTER X. 

LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 

^INTH Day. — Re-embark. — Driven Ashore by High Wind. — Camp 
Chenowagesic. — Tents Pitched. — Retire for the Night. — Disturbed 
at Midnight. — Villanous-looking Indians. Eleventh Day.— 
Slow progress. — Leech Lake River. — White Oak Point. — Camp 
Kitchinodin. — Chippewa Village. — Curiosity of Indians. — Chief 
Dull-Knife. — Ugly Women. — Nude Men. — Description of a Wig- 
wam. — India\js Friendly. Twelfth Day. — Meet Three Canoes, 



Xvi CONTENTS. 

— Halt for Dinner. — Mosquitoes. — Pokegama Falls. — ^A Portage.— 
Arrive at Grand Eapids. — The Potter House .... 122 

CHAPTER XL 

GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN. 

Thirteenth Day.— Supply of Food. — Leave Grand Rapids. — 
Farewells. — Make Good Progress. — Camp Portage. Fourteenth 
Day. — Camp Thunder. — Change of Scenery. — Halt for Dinner. — 
Swan River. — Steamer City of Aitkin. — A Salute. — Land for the 
Night. — Heavy Thunder-storm. Fifteenth Day. — Camp Mos- 
quito. — Re-embark. — Meet Indians. — White Man with Indian 
Wife. — Fine Country. — Former Battle-grounds. Sixteenth Day. 
Douglass House, Aitkin. — Return to Civilization. — Mud River. — A 
Capsize. — " The Commodore." — Interpreter Leaves for Leech Lake. 
—Aitkin. — Population and Industry 130 

CHAPTER XII. 

TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. 

Reorganization — Lecture Appointments. 

Profitable Employment. — Carlos Douglass. — Rambles Around Aitkin. 
— Productive Soil. — Numerous Lakes. — Modern Canoes. — Rushton 
Canoe. — A. H. Seigfried. — A Veteran Canoeist. — Rushton's " No. 
93." — Description of "No. 93." — "American Travelling Canoe." 
— Letter from A. H. Seigfried. — H. L. Hinckley. — Valuable Sug- 
gestions. — Racine St. Paul Canoe. — Hob Roy Canoe. — Descrip- 
tion of Racine St. Paul — Letter from Mr. Hinckley. — Advice and 
Instructions Relating to Canoes. — Good Wishes . . . 136 

CHAPTER XIII. 

AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 

Twenty-sixth Day. — Pine Knoll. — Below Aitkin. — "Weighed 
Anchor." — "Snags and Sawyers."~Broad Savannas. — Pine Tim. 
ber. — A Pleasing Landscape. — Abundance of Water-fowl. — A WiL 
derness. — John Polly and Family. — Hospitality. — Thunder-storm, 
Twenty-seventh Day. — Camp Discomfort.— Launched Canoes 
— All Hands in Good Spirits. — The Sioux Portage. — Another Cap, 
size. — Approaching Storm. — Stores Damaged. — Lightning and 
Thunder. — Tents no Protection. — Story-telling to Pass the Night. 
Twenty-eighth Day. — Start for Brainerd. — Halt for Dinner.—. 
Re-embark. — Arrive at Brainerd. — Greetings. — Warren Leland.^ 
Arthur E. Chase. — Dr. Rosser. — Lecture. — Chauncy B. Sleeper.— 
George Barclay. — The Stolen Trunk. — Thieves Arrested.— Held fot 
Trial. — Description of Brainerd 14^ 



CONTENTS. Xvil 

CHAPTER XIV. 

BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. 

Twenty-ninth Day. — Re-embark. — Land at Crow Wing. — Charles 
Bailey. — Hunting Exploits. — Description of Crow Wing. Thir- 
tieth Day. — Little Falls. — A Surprise. — Judge Story. — A. J. Pier- 
son. — Vassaly House. — Lecture. Thirty-first Day. — Receive 
Calls. — Moses Lafond. — Nathan Richardson. — Valuable Informa- 
tion. — Shooting the Falls.— The Alice. — Pike Rapids. — Mrs. Mc- 
Neil. — Western Hospitality. — Western Women. — Women Farmers. 
Thirty-second Day. — Saint Cloud. — River Wideniug.— Sauk 
Rajiids. — Nearly Swamped. — Captain West. — Lecture. — Judge L. 
A. Evans. — Description of Saint Cloud. — Jane Grey Swisshelni. 
Thirty-third Day. — Monticello. — Reach Monticello.— Cordial 
Welcome. — Lecture.— Henry Kreis. — ^Samuel E. Adams. — Henry 
Glazier . . .154 

CHAPTER XV. 

MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 

Thirty-fourth Day. — Leave Monticello. — Interest Manifested.— 
River-drivers. — Wongans. — Booms and Jams. — Village of Elk 
River. Thirty-fifth Day, — Friedley. — Strong Wind. — Blown 
Ashore at Anoka.— Dinner.— Reach Friedley. Thirty-sixth 
Day. — Jams and Log-booms. — Reach Minneapolis. — " The Nicol- 
let." — Saint Anthony Falls. — Grand Spectacle. — " Sound of Many 
Waters." — Father Hennepin. — Height of Falls. — Breadth of Falls. 
— Legend of the Falls. — Ampato's Fate. — Saint Anthony. — Sus- 
pension Bridge. — University. — Water-power. — Huge Rafts. — Lum- 
ber Business. — Flour-mills. — Summer Resorts. — Falls of Minne- 
haha. — Boating, Bathing and Fishing. — Germans and Scandi- 
navians. — Metropolis of North-west 163 

CHAPTER XVI. 

TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. 

Fort Snelling. — Lieutenant Pike. — Major Long. — Colonel Leaven- 
worth. — Colonel Snelling.— Minnesota River. — Jonathan Carver.— 
Geology and Mineralogy. — Minnesota Boat Club. — " The Island." 
—Deliver a Lecture. — Father Hennej)in. — Treaty with Sioux.-— 
Pierre Perent. — First Building in Saint Paul. — Catholic Mission. — 
Bridges. — Capitol. — Ojiera House. — Academy of Sciences. — His- 
torical Society. — Schools. — Asylums. — Stores and Warehouses. — 
Retail Trade. — Wharfage. — Railroads. — Points of Interest. — Car- 
ver's Cave. — Fountain Cave. — White Bear Lake. — Bald Eagle 
Lake. — City Park. — Progress of Civilization .... 1^'3 
2 



Xviii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 

Forty-sixth Day. — Leave Saint Paul. — Drenching Rain. — 
The Gem City. — Hastings. — Lecture Postponed. — Foster House. 
Forty-seventh Day. — Leave Hastings. — Saint Croix River. — 
Red Wing. — Swiss Missionaries. — Dakota Indians. — William 
Freeborn. — Manufactures and Resources. Forty-eighth Day. 
— "Beware of Lake Pepin." — Frontenac. — General Garrard. — 
Legends of Lake Pepin. — Maiden Rock. — Lake City. Forty- 
ninth Day. — Minneiska. — Violent Wind-storm. — Chippewa 
River. Fiftieth Day. — Reach Winona. — Courtesies. — Lecture. — 
Business Activity. — Railways, — Churches. — Schools. — Public Li- 
brary. — Newspapers. — Manufactures. — Lumber Trade. Fifty- 
first Day. — Leave Winona. — Ugly Clouds. — Violent Wind. 
—Canoes Filled with Water.— Sudden Calm. — Disembark at 
Trempealeau. — Melchior House 197 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

•mREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. 

Trip from Trempealeau. — La Crosse and Surroundings. — Delightful 
Day. — Beautiful Scenery. — Arrive at La Crossb. — Pearce Giles. — 
Name of City. — Distance from Saint Paul. — Black and La Crosse 
Rivers. — Growth of La Crosse. — Myrick's Indian Trading-post. — 
Present Populatioia. — Products and Resources. — Potatoes and Flax. 
— Port of Entry.— Lumber. — Base of Supply. — Electric Lights. — 
Churches. — Schools. — Newspapers.— Public Library. — Rapid Im- 
provement 220 

CHAPTER XIX. 

LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 

Fifty-fifth Day. — Victory, Wisconsin. — Heavy Thunder-storm. — 
Driven Ashore. Fifty-sixth Day. — Prairie du Chien. — Diffi- 
cult Landing. — Marquette and Joliet.— Jesuit Mission. — Kickapoo 
Indians. — The Mound-Builders. — Gautier de Vorville. — Brisbois.— 
Captain Fisher. — Saint John's College. — Saint Mary's Institute. — 
Fort Crawford. Fifty-seventh Day. — Guttenberg, Iowa. — 
Thoroughly Soaked. — The City and its Surroundings. Fifty- 
eighth Day. — Dubuque, Iowa. — September Rains. — Land for 
Dinner. — Refused Accommodations. — Beautiful Scenery. — Excel- 



CONTENTS. 



XIX 



lent Pasturage. — ^Winnebago Indians. — March of Civilization. — A 
" Pocket." — Reach Dubuque. — Julian Dubuque. — Lead Mines. — 
Treaty with Indians, — Immigrants. — The Civil War. — Volunteers. 
— Trade and Manufactures. — Lumber. — First School. — The Lead 
District. — Geographical Position of Dubuque .... 226 

CHAPTER XX. 

DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 

Fifty-ninth Day. — Start for Davenport. — Change of Scenery. — 
Excellent Progress. — Reach Bellevue. — Bower House. — N. O. 
Ames. — Hon. W. O. Evans. — Captain Warren. — B. W. Seaward. — 
Bellevue and the Bandits. — Delightful Summer Resort. — A Promis- 
ing Town. Sixtieth Day. — Clinton, Iowa. — Wapsipinicon 
Boat Club, — Hospitality. — Revere House. — Description of Clinton. 
— Death of Garfield. Sixty-first Day.— Comanche.— Meeting 
an Army Comrade. — Cordova. — Le Claire Rapids. — Moline. — 
Lowell of the West. — Manufacturing Centre. — Water-power. — 
" City of Mills." — Rock River. — Deere & Company. — Educational 
and Religious Matters. — Sylvan Water. — Rowing Association. 244 

CHAPTER XXI. 

FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 

Roch Island Arsenal — City of Rock Island. 

Site of Davenport. — The Illini. — Winfield Scott. — George Daven- 
port. — Antoine Le Claire. — James Mackintosh. — The Ferry. — 
Sidewalks. — Court House. — Educational Advantages. — Churches. 
— Public Library. — Academy of Sciences. — Mercy Hospital. — 
Home for the Friendless. — Growth of Davenport. — Rock Island 
Arsenal. — General Rodman. — Colonel D. W. Flagler. — Early 
Settlers. — Cause of Black Hawk War. — Governor Reynolds. — 
General Gaines. — The "Prophet." — Treaty of Peace. — Colonel 
Atkinson. — Zachary Taylor. — Jetferson Davis. — General White- 
side. — Abraham Lincoln. — Hard Fighting. — End of War. — Sacs 
and Foxes. — Late Civil War. — Military Prison. — Description ot 
the Island. — Capacity of Arsenal. — Ornithology. — Rock River. — 
Hennepin Canal. — Rock Island City. — Description. — Commerce 
and Manufactures. — Black Hawk's Watch-tower . . . 252 

CHAPTER XXII. 

DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 
Sixty-sixth DAY.—An Early Start.— Reach Muscatine.— De- 



zx 



CONTENTS, 



scription. — Railways. — Lumber. — Agricultural Produce. — 
Churches.— Schools.— Population. Sixty-seventh Day.— Stop 
at a Farm House. — Funeral of President Garfield. — Iowa Grangers. 
— John Warren Walton. — Iowa River. — Home of Black Hawk, 
— Indian Relics. Sixty-eighth Day. — Keithsburg. — Reach 
Burlington. — Barrett House. — Flint-mills. — Description of Bur- 
lington. — First Settler. — Samuel S. White. — Doolittle. — John 
Grey. — Name of City. — Dr. Samuel S. Ross. — Judge D. Rorer. — 
Zion Church. — Opera House. — First Wedding. — Population. — 
Public Library. — Churches. — Schools. — Colleges. — Boat Club. 
— Private Residences. — Prospect Hill. — Black Hawk Amphi- 
theatre. — The Levee. — Manufactures and Commerce. — Iron Bridge. 
— Steam-ferry. — Burlington College. — Burlington Hawkeye . 272 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 

Sixty-ninth Day. — Leave Burlington. — Adventure on a Sand- 
bar. — Rich Farms. — Nauvoo. — Joseph Smith. — Collisions with 
Gentiles. — Polygamy. — Book of Mormon. — Compelled to Flee. — 
Description of Temple. — Military Corps. — Spiritual Wives.— 
Arrest of Joseph and Hiram Smith, — Hiram Shot Dead. 
— Joseph Wounded and Killed. — Brigham Young, — Rigdon. 
— Armed Mobs. — A "Special Revelation." — Flight. — Temple 
Destroyed. — Icarians,— M. Cabet. Seventieth Day.— Reach 
Keokuk. — A Tradition. — Dr. Samuel C. Miner. — American Fur 
Company. — Moses Stillwell. — Joshua Palean. — Indian Wives. — 
Dr. Isaac Galland. — Jesse Crayton. — " Medicine Ground." — 
Government Canal. — Water-power. — Manufacturing Centre. — ■ 
National Cemetery. — Government Hospital. — Public Library. — 
Churches. — Schools. — Artesian Well. — Steamboats. — Fair-grounds. 
— Railroads. — College of Physicians. — Beautiful Locality. — Hand- 
some Buildings. Seventy- first Day. — Gregory, Missouri.— 
Leave Keokuk.-— Des Moines River. — Gregory. Seventy-second 
Day. — Quincy, Illinois. — Meet Several Steamers. — The Gem Citf, 
— Description of Quincy. — Railroad Bridge. — Parks. — Fair-ground. 
— Elegant Residences. — Manufactures. — Churches. — Hospitals and 
Asylums. — Medical College. — Schools. — Public Library. — Popula- 
tion 28a 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 
L«ave Quincy. — Reach Hannibal. — Description of Hannibal. 



\ CONTENTS. 

—Growth and Prosperity. — Lumber. — Manufactures. — Coal 
and Limestone.— Schools.— Hannibal College.— Population. Sev- 
enty-sixth Day.— Cincinnati, Illinois.— Naming Villages.— 
Narrow Limits.— Unattractive Surroundings. Seventy-seventh 
Day.— Cap Au Gris, Missouri.— Dense Fog.— Leave Cincinnati.— 
Clarksville.— Hamburg.— Falraouth.—Great Only in Name.— An 
UnenviablePosition.— Midnight Apparition.— The Gem City Again. 
—Landed.— Suspicion Aroused.— "River Tramps."— Another Ef- 
fort.— Ee-embark.— Reach Cap Au Gris.— "Leading Hotel."— 
River Invading the Town. Seventy-eighth Day.— Alton, Illi- 
nois.— Leave Cap Au Gris.— Illinois River.— La Salle.— Derivation 
of ^ " Illinois."— Revolutionary War.— Kaskaskia.— Alton.— De- 
scription. — Population. — Piasa Creek. — Bluffs. — Caves.— Rail- 
roads.— Manufactures.— Lime and Building Stone . . 302 

CHAPTER XXV. 

THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 

Trip from Alton— In and Around Saint Louis. 

Missouri River.— Majesty of the Mississippi.— The Yellowstone.— 
The GreatFalls.— Tributaries.— Marquette and Joliet.— Saint Gene- 
vieve.— Civil War.— Governor Jackson.— General Fremont.— Mar- 
tial Law.— Confederates.— Laclede.— A Trading-post.— Old Market 
Square.— Liguest.— Name of Saint Louis.— Under Spanish Rule.— 
Attack of Indians.— Inhabitants Chiefly French.— Old Saint 
Louis.-First Ferry.-First Baptist Church.-First Methodist.- 
First Episcopal.— Governor La Motte.— Population.— Pilot Knob. 
—Great Bridge.— Captain Eads.— Carondelet.— J!fmowr^ Gazette, 
—Joseph Charles.— Missouri BepubMcan.— Fost-Bispatch.—G /obe- 
Democrat.—The Times. -Germsin, French and Spanish Papers.- 
Deaf and Dumb Asylum.— Convent of Good Shepherd.— Shaw's 
Garden.— Agricultural and Mechanical Association.— Fair Week. 
—Forest Park.— Northern Park.— Lafayette Park.— Court House* 
—Chamber of Commerce.— Custom House.— Jewish Temple.— 
The Levee ... 010 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. 

Eighty-fiest DAY.-Once More Afloat.— Lunch in the Canoe.- ^ 
Crystal City. Eighty-second Day.— River Obstructions.— Vari- 
eties of River Craft.— Saint Genevieve.— Chester. Eighty-third 



xxii CONTENTS. 

Day. — Grand Tower. — An ex-Union Soldier. Eighty-fourth 
Day. — Cape Girardeau. — A Circus and a County Fair.— Blown 
Ashore. Eighty-fifth Day.— An Early Start. — Junction of the 
Ohio and Mississippi. — Cairo. — History of the City. — Description 
by Charles Dickens. — Cairo in War Times. — The Cairo of To- 
day.— The Future of Cairo 330 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. 

/SiGHTY-siXTH Day. — Off Again.— Belmont. — " Shanty-Boats." — 
Hypocritical Boatmen.— Hickman. Eighty-seventh Day. — 
Point Pleasant. — Chickasaw Bluffs. — Mound-Builders. — Fort Don- 
-^Ison.— " Island No. 10."— Beelfoot Bayou. Eighty-eighth Day. 
— A Hearty Send-off. — "Tow-heads." — Numbering the Islands. — 
Annual Overflows.— A Settler's Life. EiGHTY-NiNTH Day.— 
Arkansas. — Fort Pillow. — Negro Cabins.— Crops of Cotton. Nine- 
tieth Day. — A Sixty-three Miles' Run. — Harrison's Landing. — 
Royal Courtesies. Ninety-first Day. — Arrival at Memphis.-' 
History of the City. — Commerce. — Institutions. — Ravages of Yel- 
low Fever . . . . 345 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG. 

Ninety-second Day. — Lodging with Negroes. — Robert Green. — 
Ben. Montgomery. Ninety-third Day. — Helena. — Arnot Harris. 
— W. L. Morris. Ninety-fourth Day. — Rough Experiences. — 
Friar's Point. — A Floating Photograph Gallery. — At Modoc. 
Ninety-fifth Day. — The Vickshurg. Ninety-sixth Day. — 
Levees.— The White and Arkansas Rivers. Ninety-seventh 
Day. — Fortunate Escape. — A Quick Run. Ninety-eighth Day. 
— Monotonous Scenery. — Greenville. Ninety-ninth Day. — 
Lively Greeting at Ashton. One Hundredth Day.— Ashore 
at Ingomar.— Negroes' Saturday Night. One Hundred and 
First Day. — Nearing Vicksburg. — Its War Experiences. — The 
Great Canal.— Terrific Fighting.— The Surrender . . .357 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 

One Hundred and Second Day.— Meet a ^SteAraer. — The 
Natchez.— W2iYvenioii. — A Political Meeting. One Hundred and 
Third Day. — The Cotton Gin. — The Bondurant Plantation. — A. 



CONTENTS, ^^jjj 

Good Run. One Hundred and Fourth Day.— A Late Start.— 
Zachary Taylor's Plantation.— His History. One Hundred and 
Fifth Day.— Arrival at Natchez.— L. Q. C. Lamar.— Early His- 
tory of Natchez.— The Natchez Indians.— The City's Future . 377 

CHAPTER XXX. 

NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. 

One Hundred and Sixth Day.— Delay at Natchez.— A Late 
Landing.— A Late Meeting. One Hundred and Seventh 
Day.— Eed Eiver.— The " Raft."— Numerous Bayous.— Tunica 
Landing. One Hundred and Eighth Day.— On Board the 

Steamer Robert E. Lee. One Hundred and Ninth Day. 

Farewell to the Winns.— Bayou Sara.— Port Hudson.— The Morn- 
ing Star. One Hundred and Tenth Day.— The Eliza Plan- 
tation.— Making Sugar.— Baton Rouge.— Public Buildings.— War 
History 4Q3 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 

One Hundred and Eleventh Day.— Another Late Start.— Donald- 

sonville. — Its War History. One Hundred and Twelfth Day. 

Rain.— Rice-fields.— Hospitality of the Negroes. One Hundred 
AND Thirteenth Day.— More Rain.— Orange Groves.— A Low 
Country.— Carrollton.— Its Beauties.— New Orleans, the Crescent 
City.— Its Peculiar Features.— In the Civil War.— Its Defences 
Captured. — The City Surrendered. — Dark Days. — Ancient 
Landmarks.— The Levee.— The Shell Road.— Lake Ponchartrain. 
—General Jackson's Victory.— Cemeteries.— Mardigras.— Present 
Condition of the City 410 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

NEW ORLEANS TO THE GULP OP MEXICO. — END OF 

VOYAGE. 

One Hundred and Fourteenth Day.— Meeting Ocean Steam- 
ers.— Rich Plantations. One Hundred and Fifteenth Day.— 
Adieu to English Turn.— Salutes from Steamers.— A Crowded 
Lodging-place. One Hundred and Sixteenth Day.— An Early 
Start.— Luxuriant Fields and Groves.— The Jump. One Hun- 
dred AND Seventeenth Day.— The Last Launch.— Pilot Station. 
—Hospitality of Pilots.— Port Eads.— Captain Eads.— His Va- 
rious Achievements.— Robert La Salle.— The Voyage Ended . 427 



xxiv CONTENTS, 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

THE FATHER OP WATERS. 

Review of the Mississippi and Its Tributaries. — Return to its Sowrce. 
— Bayous of Louisiana. — The Red River. — The Yazoo and Tom- 
bigbee. — Bay of Mobile. — The Arkansas and Colorado Rivers. — 
White and Saint Francis. — The Ohio. — Chesapeake Bay and At- 
lantic Ocean. — Kaskaskia. — Missouri. — IJlinois. — Des Moines, 
Rock and Turkey Rivers. — The Wisconsin and Chippewa. — Saint 
Croix and Minnesota. — The Gulf Lakes. — The Red River of the 
North. — Gulf of Mexico. — Arctic Ocean. — What is the Conclu- 
sion? — The Amazon, the Nile and the Mississippi. — The King of 
River* 439 



APPENDIX BY THE PDBLISHERS. 

Inteoduction. — Letters from Barrett Channing Paine. — To the 
Saint Paul Pioneer Press. — Brainerd Tribune. — Saint Louis Globe 
Democrat. — Hastings Gazette. — Dubuque Herald. — Saint Louis 
Post Dispatch. — New Orleans Democrat. — Reception of Captain 
Glazier at New Orleans and Saint Louis. — Dr. J. S. Copes. — Mayor 
Shakespear. — Academy of Sciences. — New Orleans Picayune. — 
Complimentary recognition. — Freedom of city of New Orleans 
tendered. — Presentation of canoe " Alice " to the Academy. — 
Remarks by Dr. Copes. — Dr. J. R. Walker. — Resolutions. — H. 
Dudley Coleman. — Col. J. B. Richardson. — Before the Missouri 
Historical Society. — Judge Albert Todd. — Lecture by Captain 
Glazier. — Letter presenting the " Itasca." — Captain Silas Bent. — 
Letters pertinent to the subject,— From Captain Glazier. 
— From Pearce Giles. — From Paul Beaulieu. — From J. C. Crane. 
— From John Lovell. — From Gus. H. Beaulieu. — Map of Lake 
Glazier. — Public opinion in Minnesota.— Governor A. R. Mc- 
Gill. — Ex-Governor Horace Austin. — Hon. W. H. Gale, and many 
others.— Recognition,— Hon. Charles P. Daly, President of 
American Geographical Society.— Royal Geographical Society, 
England.— George- W. Melville, Chief Engineer, U. S. N.— Presi- 
dents of Colleges. — Geographers and Educational Publishers. — 
Notices of the Press ...„, Pages i to lii 



Illustrations. 



-•♦•- 



PORTEAIT OF THE AuTHOE „ Frontispiecf, 

Members of the Expedition , 27 

Map OF THE Head Waters OF THE Mississippi 33 

Dinner with Flatmouth 43 

Embarking for the Source of the Great Eiver 47 

Camp among the Pines 53 

Making a Portage 61 

Source of the "Father of Waters" 73 

Running Rapids on the Upper Mississippi 87 

Sioux and Chippewa Dance Music 107 

Parting with Chenowagesic „. 119 

Scenes pN the Upper Mississippi , 147 

Falls of St. Anthony in 1881 169 

A View of Minneapolis o , 177 

Fort Snelling 181 

(xxv) 



XX vi ILLUSTRATIONS. 

City of St. Paul 187 

Fort Snelling and Vicinity 193 

View of Lake Pepin 206 

Raft on the Upper Mississippi 213 

Log-Boom and Saw-Mills . 237 

An Iowa Tributary of the Mississippi.. 251 

Bridge between Davenport and Rock Island 269 

Saint Louis Exposition Building 31-^ 

Views in St. Louis 327 

The Shanty-Boat 343 

City of Vicksburg 369 

Negroes Picking Cotton 375 

Cutting Sugar Cane 385 

Sport among the Bayous 393 

Scene in the Levee District 401 

A Rice Field 4il 

The Crescent City 423 

Scene IN an Orange Grove 429 

Map of the Father of Waters 'i£S 

APPENDIX. 

The Lake beyond Itasca , .,».... xxvii 



DISCOVERY 



OF THE 



True Source of the Mississippi. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE OLD EXPLORERS. 




'HILE crossing the continent on horseback 
from ocean to ocean in 1876 I came to 
a bridge which spans the Mississippi be- 
tween Rock Island, Illinois and Daven- 
port, Iowa. As I saw the flood of this 
mighty stream rolling beneath, I turned in 
imagination to its discovery in 1541 ; I saw the 
renowned De Soto on its banks and buried in its 
depths ; I accompanied Marquette from the mouth of 
the Wisconsin to the mouth of the Arkansas ; I fol- 
lowed Father Hennepin northward to Saint Anthony 
Falls, and saw the daring La Salle plant the banner 
of France on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. 

Musing thus upon the exploits of the heroic old ex- 
plorers who led the way to this grand and peerless 
river of North America, I felt that it was a subject of 
much regret, that, although its mouth was discovered 
by the Chevalier La Salle nearly two hundred years 

(29) 



30 DOWI^ THE GREAT EIVER. 

ago, there was still much uncertainty as to its true 
source. Within the last century several expeditions 
have attempted to find the primal reservoir of the 
Great River ; Pike, Beltrami, and Schoolcraft have each 
in turn claimed the goal of their explorations ; and 
numerous lakes, large and small have from time to 
time enjoyed the honor of standing at the head of the 
Father of Waters. 

Schoolcraft finally, in 1832, located a lake which 
he named Itasca, as the fountain head, and succeeded 
in securing for it the recognition of geographers and 
map makers. Notwithstanding the fact, however, that 
the new claim for geographical honors was very gen- 
erally accepted as the source, I had frequently been 
told that many Indians denied that their ideal river 
had its origin in Lake Itasca, but that there were 
other lakes and streams above and beyond that lake. 
These reflections led me to conclude that there was yet 
a rich field for exploration in the wilds of Minnesota. 

A combination of unfavorable circumstances pre- 
vented for several years the accomplishment of my 
purpose to penetrate to the true source of the Missis- 
sippi. The month of May, 1881, found me sojourning 
a few days at Cleveland, Ohio, where I had halted in 
my journey westward from New York. On the first 
day of June, I proceeded to Chicago, and from thence 
to Saint Paul, Minnesota, where I was joined by my 
brother George, and Barrett Channing Paine, of 
Indianapolis. The month of June was spent at Saint 
Paul in preparation. Tents, blankets, guns, ammuni- 
tion, fishing-tackle, and other equipage necessary to a 
six weeks' campaign in the wilderness, were provided 
for the little band which was to form my expedition. 



THE OLD EXPLORERS. 31 

Having completed arrangements, I left Saint Paul 
on the morning of July Fourth, with Brainerd as my im- 
mediate objective. Short halts were made at Minneap- 
olis, Monticello, Saint Cloud and Little Falls, on our 
way up the river. Brainerd was reached July seventh. 
This enterprising town is situated at the point where 
the Northern Pacific Railway crosses the Mississippi; 
is near the boundary of the Chippewa Indian Reser- 
vation, and is the nearest place of consequence to 
Lake Itasca. Here I again halted to further inform 
myself concerning the topography of the country ; to 
decide upon the most feasible route to my destination, 
and to provide such extra supplies of rations and cloth- 
ing as might be considered essential to the success of 
our enterprise. After consulting maps, I concluded 
that, while most of the recent explorers had sought its 
source by going up the stream through Lakes Winni- 
begoshish, Cass and Bemidji, a more direct course 
would be by way of Leech Lake and the Kabekanka 
River. 



CHAPTER II. 

THEOUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. 

^s^^^BT^ CAREFUL study of the route to Leech 
Lake, with a few valuable suggestions 
from Warren Lelaud, an old resident of 
Brainerd, led me to seek wagon convey- 
ance to the former place over what is known 
in northern Minnesota as the Government 
Road. This road stretches for seventy-five miles 
through immense pine forests and almost impene- 
trable underbrush, and the only habitations to be seen 
from it are the half-way houses, erected for the accom- 
modation of teamsters who are engaged in hauling 
Government supplies, and the occasional wigwams of 
wandering Indians. It was opened in 1856, by James 
Macaboy, for the convenience of Indian agents and fur 
traders. 

Fully equipped and with a driver celebrated for 
his knowledge of the frontier, we commenced at eight 
o'clock on the morning of July twelfth our wagon 
journey to Leech Lake, the third objective in my ex- 
pedition to the head waters of the Mississippi. John 
Monahan, who held the reins in this seventy-five mile 
journey over one of the roughest roads of Minnesota, 
is a true son of Erin, who need not take a back seat for 
Hank Monk, or any of the famous drivers of the hordes 
(32) 



THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY, 35 

A ride of between three and four hours brought our 
little party to Gull Lake^ where a halt was made for 
rest and refreshments. Gull Lake was for many years 
the home and head-quarters of the noted Chippewa 
chief, Hole-in-the-day, and was the scene of many 
sanguinary struggles between his braves and those 
of the equally celebrated Sioux chief, Little Crow, 
The remnant of a block house, fragments of wigwams, 
and a few scattered graves, are all that is now left to 
tell the tale of its aboriginal conflicts. 

A family of four persons, domiciled in a log-house, 
constitute the entire white population of the place. 
Reuben Gray, the genial patriarch who presides over 
this solitary household in the wilderness, delights in 
the title of landlord, and his hotel has become some- 
what famous as one of the pioneer half-way houses 
between Brainerd and Leech Lake. 

Our arrival at Gull Lake was duly celebrated by 
launching a canoe, which soon returned with a fine 
mess of fish. These, with such fruits and vegetables 
as were in season, afforded a dinner which our appe- 
tites, whetted by a forenoon's jolting in a country 
wagon, had fully prepared us to enjoy. 

After dinner we resumed our journey, with Pine 
River as the evening destination. Sometimes in the 
roadj sometimes out of it ; now driving along the shore 
of a lake, and again over huge logs and boulders, it was 
voted that our ride to Pine River was unlike anything 
we had ever elsewhere experienced. 

The ranche of George Barclay, the only white 
habitation between Gull Lake and Leech Lake, was 
reached at five o'clock in the evening. Here we were 
most agreeably surprised to find very good accommo- 



36 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

dations for both man and beast. Barclay is a decided 
favorite with the Indians, and his prosperity in this 
isolated corner of Minnesota is largely due to his 
friendly relations with them. He is always supplied 
with guns, knives, beads, tobacco, and such other goods 
as are in demand by his dusky neighbors, for which 
he receives in exchange furs, game, snake-root, and 
such other products of the f rest as find a readv mar- 
ket at Brainerd or Saint Paul. 

Much valuable information was obtained at Pine 
River concerning our route to Leech Lake and beyond, 
the peculiar traits and characteristics of the Indians 
whom we were likely to encounter, and those persons 
at the Agency who could be of most service to us. 

An excellent breakfast on the following morning, 
with the prospect of reaching Leech Lake, put my 
little party in the most exuberant spirits for the 
day ; and nothing but jolting over one of the most 
indifferent and rugged roads I have ever encountered 
could have lessened the enjoyment of our journey. A 
short halt was made for lunch at Fourteen Mile Lake. 
This was our first meal in the open air, and enabled us 
to gauge more accurately our supply of rations. It 
was readily discovered that we should need at least a 
third more provisions per diem for our expedition than 
would be required for the ordinary occupations of 
indoor life ; and I at once decided to provide an ad- 
ditional "Supply of bacon and dried meats before pass- 
ing the Indian Agency. 

After lunch my brother and Mr. Paine took a bath 
in the lake^ while I found amusement in duck-shooting 
and chatting with some straggling Chippewas, who 
were about launching their canoes for a six weeks' hunt' 



THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. 



37 



ing and fishing excursion. These were tlie first birch- 
bark canoes I had seen, and were regarded with consider- 
able interest, as they were indispensable to the success 
of our undertaking. Curiosity led me to step into 
one of them, when from want of experience I was 
precipitated into the lake, much to my own discomfort 
ind chagrin, and the amusement of the Indians. 
Being unable to swim, I was congratulated upon a 
capsize in shallow water. Firmly resolved upon 
more caution in the future, we continued our journey 
towards Leech Lake, which was reached at four 
j'ciock in the afternoon. 





CHAPTER III. 

HOME OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 

PON onr arrival at Leech Lake our first 
glimpse of the embryonic red man was 
"^^^3^)1 of a boy about six years of age, who 
j/^ ONftv^ij' ran out of a wigwam — his copper-colored 
skin unadorned by a single garment — bran- 
dishing a bow in one hand, and carrying ar- 
rows in the other. He was very far from being 
warlike, however, and on seeing his wliite brothers 
suddenly disappeared in the bushes. A little further 
on we came to several wigwams, and finally to a log- 
cabin, over the door of which was nailed a pine board, 
bearing the inscription, " Hotel." Here we were 
received by a rough-looking man with long hair and 
unkempt beard, and wearing in addition to his one other 
article of clothing a pair of pants made from a red 
blanket. 

The prospect was certainly not an inviting one, and 
no reason was found for forming a more favorable 
opinion when we had alighted and inspected his 
squalid accommodations. But as the government 
officials were away from the post, we accepted the 
situation, and as graciously as possible placed our 
nam^s, figuratively speaking, on the register of the 
Weaver House. We fared much better than we ex- 

m 



HOME OF THE CHIPPEWAS, 39 

pected, however, dining on fresh fish and potatoes. 
Our supper and breakfast were selected from the same 
bill of fare, varied by the addition of " flap-jacks." 
As a substitute for tenantable beds we swung our ham- 
mocl^s from the rafters of the loft. 

Tills lake is one of the most peculiarly shaped 
bodies of water that I remember ever to have looked 
upon. Its characteristics are most striking, presenting 
an array of curves, peninsulas and bays rarely encoun- 
tered even in a State which boasts of ten thousand lakes. 
Ten islands are found within its bosom, and seven 
rivers and creeks enter it from various quarters. 
It extends from north to south not less than twenty 
miles, and from east to west a still greater distance, 
with a coast line of nearly four hundred miles. Its 
waters are deep and clear in all its central parts, and 
yield the white fish, bass, pickerel and other species. 
The banks of its numerous and extensive bays abound 
in wild rice, and attract in the proper season a great 
variety of water fowl. The pelican, swan, brant and 
cormorant are the largest of the varieties that annually 
visit it. On its shores may be found the elk, deer and 
bear. Beavers were formerly abundant, but they have 
in a great measure disappeared. The mink and musk- 
rat afford now the principal items of its fine furs. Such 
a lake in the midst of a hunting and trapping country 
is always considered a place of importance, and nearly a 
hundred years ago Canadian fur traders came through 
the forests and over the lakes and rivers from Mon- 
treal to establish a trading post at this point. 

For many years Leech Lake was the seat of the 
Chippewa Indian Agency, but the latter is now con- 
solidated with the White Earth and Red Lake 



40 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

agencies. Major C. A. Ruffe is at present agent of 
the three departments, with head-quarters at White 
Earth. The village on Leech Lake consists of a 
half dozen government buildings, as many log-cabins, 
and twenty or thirty wigwams, scattered here and 
there near one of the arms of the lake. 

The day after our arrival the agency was thrown 
into a state of excitement by the announcement that 
Major Ruffe was en route to Lake Winnibegoshish by 
way of Leech Lake, and that he was expected to make 
his advent on the afternoon of the following day. 
The Major was accompanied by Captain Taylor, of 
Saint Cloud, one of the pioneer surveyors of Minne- 
sota; Paul Beaulieu,the veteran government interpreter, 
and White Cloud, chief of the Mississippis. 

Major Ruffe was untiring in his efforts to relieve 
the monotony of our sojourn at the Agency, and to 
render our condition as agreeable as possible while 
within the boundary of his dominions. Through 
conversations with this genial officer I learned much 
of the pioneer history of the post, and the attempts to 
civilize the Pillagers, as the Leech Lake Indians 
are styled. This tribe seems to have seceded from the 
other Chippewas many hundred years ago, and to 
have assumed the responsibility of defending this por- 
tion of the Chippewa border. They " passed armed 
before their brethren '^ in their march westward. 
Their geographical position was such as to compel them 
to be always on the alert and in every emergency, of 
which they have encountered no inconsiderable num- 
ber, they have shown themselves capable of defending 
their chosen position, and on many trying occasions 
have won admiration as brave and active warriors. 



H03IE OF THE CHIFPEWAS. 41 

Thoroughly accustomed to the practices of the 
forest, they have achieved uiany triumphs over their 
powerful enemies, the Sioux. With a valor seldom 
equaled and never surpassed, the Pillagers, with smaller 
numbers, have, on occasions neither few nor unimpor- 
tant, fallen upon their enemies and vanquished them 
with a resolution characteristic of Spartan heroes. It is 
not easy on the part of the Government to repress the 
feelings of hostility which have so long existed, and 
to convince them that they have lived into an age 
when milder maxims furnish the basis of wise action. 
Pacific counsels fall with little power upon a people 
situated so remote from every good influence, and who 
cannot perceive in the restless spirit of their enemies 
any safeguard for the continuance of a peace, however 
formally it may have been concluded. The fact was 
adverted to by one of their chiefs, who observed that 
they were compelled to fight in self-defence. Although 
the Sioux had made a solemn treaty of peace with 
them at Tipisagi in 1825, they were attacked by them 
that very year, and almost yearly since had sustained 
insidious or open attacks. 

"The domestic manners and habits of a people whose 
position is so adverse to improvement could hardly 
be expected to present anything strikingly different 
from other erratic bands of the Northwest. There is 
indeed a remarkable uniformity in the external habits 
of all our Northern Indians. The necessity of chang- 
ing their camps often, to procure game or fish, the 
wants of domesticated animals, the general dependence 
on wild rice and the custom of journeying in canoes, 
have produced a general similarity of life. And it is 
emphatically a life of want and vicissitude. There is 



42 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

a perpetual change between action and inanity of 
mind which is a striking peculiarity of the savage 
state. And there is such a general want of forecast 
that most of their misfortunes and hardships, in war 
and peace, come unexpectedly. None of the tribes 
who inhabit this quarter can be said to have, thus far, 
derived any peculiarities from civilized instruction. 
The only marked alteration which their state of 
society has undergone appears to be referable to the 
era of the introduction of the fur trade, when they 
were made acquainted with and adopted the use of 
iron, gunpowder and woollens. This implied a con- 
siderable change of habits, and of the mode of subsist- 
ence, and may be considered as having paved the 
way for further changes in the mode of living and 
dress. But it brought with it the onerous evil of 
intemperance, and left the mental habits essentially 
unchanged.'' 

It was a subject of much regret that my arrival at 
Leech Lake was at a season when the Pillagers were 
away upon their annual hunting and fishing excur- 
sions. Their absence from the Agency, was a serious 
obstacle in the way of our further progress. Being 
compelled to take the final step in my expedition to 
the source of the Mississippi from this point, it was 
important that I should complete my equipment by 
securing an interpreter, reliable guides and birch-bark 
canoes. 

Conversations with Flat Mouth, head chief of the 
Chippewas, developed the fact that he knew of but one 
Indian in the Chippewa country who had actually 
traversed the region which I was about to explore, and 
that he was then visiting some friends near Lake 



HOME OF THE CHIFPEWAS. 43 

Winnibegoshish, and was not expected to return until 
the following Saturday, some three days later. 

Satisfied that Chenowagesic would prove indis- 
pensable to the success of my expedition, I decided to 
await his return to the Agency, The tedium of my so- 
journ at Leech Lake was broI?:en by a dinner with 
Flat Mouth, a visit to the missionary, and conversa- 
tions with Paul Beaulieu concerning the source of the 
Mississippi. 

Although for many years I had been much among 
the natives of the forest, my dinner with Flat Mouth 
was the first instance of a meal with Indian royalty. 
Flat Mouth, the present ruler of the Pillagers, is a 
descendant of Aish-ki-bug-ekozh, the most famous of 
all the Chippewa chiefs. He is stalwart in appear- 
ance, and is endowed with talents which certainly en- 
title him to this distinction. Having accepted his 
invitation to dinner, I went to his residence at the ap- 
pointed hour, accompanied by my brother. I found 
him living in a comfortable log-house of two rooms, 
well floored and roofed, with a couple of small glass 
windows. A plain board table stood in the centre of 
the front room, upon which the dinner was spread. 
Pine board benches were placed on each side of the 
table and at the ends. We followed the example of 
our host in sitting down. Five other persons, includ- 
ing his wife, were admitted to the meal. Tlie others 
were White Cloud, chief of the Mississippis,and three 
Chippewa sub-chiefs. 

The wife of Flat Mouth sat on his left and waited 
upon him and those whom he had invited. Tea- 
cups and teaspoons of plain manufacture were care- 
fully arranged, the number corresponding exactly with 



44 BOWJV THE GREAT RIVER, 

the expected guests. A large 'dish of bass and white 
fish, cut up and boiled in good taste, was placed in the 
centre of the table, from which we were served. A 
birch-bark salt-cellar, in which pepper and salt were 
mixed in unequal proportion, allowed each the privi- 
lege of seasoning his fish with both or dispensing with 
it altogether. Our tea was sweetened with maple 
sugar. A dish of blueberries, picked on the shore of 
the lake, completed the dinner. 

I was much gratified on this occasion by the pres- 
ence of White Cloud, whom I had frequently been 
told was the most respectable man in the Chippewa 
country, and if the term has reference to his intellectual 
faculties and the power of reaching correct deductions 
from known premises, and the effect which these have 
had on his standing and influence with his own tribe, 
it is not misplaced. Shrewdness and quickness of per- 
ception most of the chiefs possess; but there is more 
of the character of common-sense and practical reflec- 
tion in White Cloud^s remarks than I remember to 
have noticed in any of the chiefs of my acquaintance. 
In early life this chief was both warrior and counselor, 
and these distinctions he held not from any hereditary 
right, but from the force of his own genius. I found 
him most agreeable in conversation and well informed 
upon those subjects which were of most interest to him. 
The sentiments to which he gave expression were such as 
would naturally occur to a mind which had possessed 
itself of facts and was quite capable of discussing them. 
His bearing was grave and dignified, and his oratory 
such as to render him popular wherever heard. While 
at dinner the room became filled with Indians, ap- 
parently the relatives and intimate friends of Flat 



HOME OF THE CHIPPEWA8. 45 

Mouth, who seated themselves orderly and quietly 
upon the floor. On rising from the table White 
Cloud addressed me a few moments upon the objects of 
my expedition. 

He expressed regret that his white brothers had 
been so long in ignorance of the source of the Missis- 
sippi, and said, although he had not himself seen the 
head of the Great River, there were many braves of 
his tribe who were familiar with its location. He 
hoped I had come thoroughly prepared to explore the 
country beyond Lake Itasca, and that I would not 
return to my friends until I had found the true 
source of the Father of Waters. Continuing, he 
said : " I am told that Chenowagesic, the Chippewa 
warrior, will accompany you. He is a good hunter 
and a faithful guide. He can supply you with game, 
and paddle your canoe. The Chippewas are your 
friends, and will give you shelter in their wigwams." 

"Find Rev. Edwin Benedict as soon as you reach 
Leech Lake," was the last injunction I received on 
leaving Brainerd. Mr. Benedict is one of the five 
missionaries of the Episcopal Church on the Chippewa 
Reservation, and holds his commission from Bishop 
Whipple, of Minnesota. With this pleasant gentle- 
man I spent the greater share of my time while at 
the Agency, when not engaged in preparations for my 
journey. The courtesy of a civilized bed, and a table 
with paper, pens and ink, were luxuries which will 
not soon pass from my memory. 

Paul Beaulieu, the half-breed interpreter to Major 
RnfiPe, possesses a fund of information concerning the 
Upper Mississippi, which cannot be consistently ig- 
nored by those who are in pursuit of its mysterious 



46 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

source; and I considered myself most fortunate in 
meeting him before my departure for Lake Itasca. 

Beaulieu deserves more than a passing mention, as 
he is a man of large experience, and is well known 
throughout Minnesota, and in some circles through- 
out the country. He was born at Mackinaw, while 
General Sibley was stationed there in the interest of 
the American Fur Company, of which John Jacob 
Astor was then the head. His father was a French- 
man, and his mother an Indian. He received a liberal 
education partly in the Government school at Macki- 
naw and partly at Montreal. On leaving school he 
was employed by the Fur Company and sent all over 
the United States, from the Saint Lawrence to Lower 
California. He crossed the continent with the Stevens 
party on the first Northern Pacific survey, and rendered 
such valuable services that he was presented a testi- 
monial in recognition of his efficiency. 

Beaulieu had a theory of his own regarding the 
source of the Mississippi, based upon the stories of 
.^ndians of his acquaintance. Referring to this sub- 
ject, he said that to the west of Lake Itasca there was 
another lake, the outlet of which unites with the 
stream from the former lake, and which contributes a 
much larger volume of water at the junction than the 
outlet of Itasca. He therefore assumed that this 
nameless and almost unknown lake was the true 
source of the Mississippi. 

In corroboration of the Beaulieu theory, Major 
Ruife said that he had heard the same idea expressed 
by a number of old Indian voyageurs. It will thus 
be seen that there was a great diversity of opinion 
among the best informed authorities as to the actual 
source of the Great River. 



CHAPTER IV. 

EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 

zJ^^t^ PON the return of Cheiiowagesic and 
Pp other Indians a council was held, and 
&( my object stated to them. They were 
y^ requested to delineate maps of the country, 
and to furnish an interpreter, guides and 
canoes. Chenowagesic said : " My brother, 
the country you are going to visit is my hunting 
ground. I have hunted there many years, and 
planted corn on the shores of Lake Itasca. My father, 
now an old man, remembers the first white chief 
who came to look for the source of the Great River. 
But, my brother, no white man has yet seen the 
head of the Father of Waters. I will myself furnish 
the maps you have called for, and will guide you 
onward. There are many lakes and rivers in the 
way, but the waters are favorable. I will talk with 
my friends about the canoes, and see who will step 
forward to furnish them. My own canoe shall be one 
of the number." 

But a few hours were required to complete the 
maps, and on the following morning, July seventeenth, 
three Chippewas, including Chenowagesic, brought 
each a canoe and laid it down on the shore of the lake. 

One other Chippewa expressed a willingness to accum- 

(49) 



50 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

panj us to the mouth of the Kabekanka River. These 
with Mr. Paine/ my brother and myself, and our kig- 
gage, were distributed equally in the three canoes 
secured by Chenowagesic. 

A large number of Indians, most of whom were the 
relatives and friends of our guides, assembled near the 
point from which we had decided to launch. The 
wind blew briskly from the North, making the surface 
of the lake quite rough for canoe navigation, and it 
was with some distrust that we stepped gingerly into 
the canoes and took our appointed positions at the 
imminent risk of capsizing them by our awkwardness. 
The Indian guides took their places at the stern, with 
instructions to act as pilots. Rev. Mr. Benedict, who 
accompanied me to the place of embarkation, now 
stepped to the water's edge, and seizing the stern 
of my canoe, gave us the launch. A waving of hats 
by way of farewell to those who had come down to the 
shore to see us off, and our birchen fleet got under way 
and glided out into the deep water of the lake, pro- 
pelled by the lusty strokes of the voyageurs, and our 
own faint attempts in the same direction. 

An hour's vigorous paddling took us across the arm 
of the lake on which the Agency is situated, and then 
a short portage over a point of land brought us to a 
much larger body of water, where the wind and the 
waves had a sweep of from fifteen to twenty miles. 
We coasted along the shore for some distance, and then 
headed directly across the lake for the mouth of the 
Kabekanka River. The waves ran high, and our 
canoes rose lightly on them, sinking again with a 
swash into the trough, and splashing the water over 
our bows. Gradually we became somewhat accustomed ■ 



EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 51 

to this, and gained sufficient confidence to gaze around 
at the broad expanse of lake and sniff the fresh and 
invigorating breeze which at the outset had caused us 
so much uneasiness. 

Between two and three hours of persistent work with 
our paddles brought us to an inlet through which the 
Kabekanka empties ; and, forcing 0L.r way through 
the rushes, with which its mouth is filled, we ascended 
the stream, and at about eleven o'clock came upon a 
small lake formed by an expansion of the river. 

Paddling to the upper end of it, we landed, and, hav- 
ing built a fire, had our first meal in the open air. 
Re-embarking, we continued our course up the Kabe- 
kanka. As we ascended, the river became narrower and 
swifter, and the wild rice which at first filled its shallow 
bed gave place to snags and driftwood, through which 
it was almost impossible to force our canoes. We had 
nearly reached the conclusion that we could go no 
farther in. the canoes, when we came to what seemed to 
be a pond of still water filled with rushes. This 
pond, we soon discovered, was the outlet of a large and 
beautiful lake not less than seven miles long, into 
whose tranquil waters we burst with a shout of glad- 
ness. 

The sun was now well down towards the western 
horizon, and the question of supper and a camp-ground 
began to agitate the minds of my companions. Con- 
tinuing our course, we paddled slowly up the lake, 
trolling for fish as we prospected for a suitable spot on 
which to pitch our tents. A model camp-ground was 
soon located on a bluff near the lake, wooded . with 
Norway pines, and sloping rather abruptly to the 
water. 



52 j}OWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

Our trolling was rewarded with a fine mess of 
pickerel ; so we landed at once, and the fire of our 
first camp was soon crackling merrily. The guides 
prepared supper, while my brother and Paine pitched 
tents and swung their hammocks among the pines. 

The zest with which we relished our supper of fish, 
enhanced by the addition of canned dainties from the 
civilized world, can readily be imagined ; and as we 
smoked the pipe of contentment under the shelter of 
the grand old pines, we felt that the hardships which 
had been predicted for our voyage had been greatly 
magnified. After discussing the events of the day, 
we retired to our tents, or rather were driven thither 
by clouds of mosquitoes which, ignoring the smoke 
of our camp-fire, began their onslaughts as soon as the 
light of day disappeared. Paine attempted to find 
peaceful slumber in his hammock, but was soon sung 
and stung into a hasty retreat to the tent which George 
had, with some care, made mosquito-proof. A grand 
mosquito serenade was now inaugurated, which con- 
tinued without interruption until the sun appeared 
above the lake. Fortunate, indeed, for us that we 
were beyond their reach. , 

We struck tents at break of day on the morning of 
July eighteenth, and, launching our canoes, paddled to 
the upper end of the lake, where we disembarked and 
had breakfast. 

Learning from Chenowagesic that the Indians had 
no name for this beautiful body of water, I desig- 
nated it ^^ Garfield '^ in honor of our President, James 
Abram Garfield. 

At the head of Lake Garfield we reached the ter- 
minus of uninterrupted water communication, and I 



EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 55 

was informed by my guides that a portage of between 
two and three miles lay before us. In blissful ignor- 
ance of what a portage really was, this announcement 
had no terror for us, and we gayly packed our traps 
into convenient bundles for carrying. The Indians 
had, in the meantime, prepared packs for themselves 
weighing upwards of a hundred pounds, which they 
rolled in their blankets and secured with a strap which 
was passed over the forehead, allowing the pack to rest 
on their shoulders. On top of this they each placed a 
canoe, bottom upwards, resting it on the pack by 
means of a cross-bar, and thus loaded started through 
what seemed to us a trackless forest. 

Following the lead of our guides, we shouldered our 
guns and kept up as best we could, for their pace at 
times increased almost to a run. The undergrowth 
was so dense that we could not see where to put our 
feet, and were only guided by the white bottoms of 
the canoes in front of us. On we went, up hill and 
down, over logs and through bogs, barking our shins, 
scratching our faces on the rough limbs, panting for 
breath, the perspiration flowing in rivulets from every 
pore, and bitten by countless mosquitoes, until it 
seemed that we could proceed no farther; still the 
guides trotted along with their burdens, showing not 
the least sign of fatigue. At last, however, as we 
were about to drop from sheer exhaustion, the guides 
halted and deposited packs and canoes on the ground, 
rolled out from under them, and, after a smile at us, 
began picking blueberries which were found in great 
abundance near by. As for myself and white com- 
panions, we threw ourselves down almost breathless, 
without even energy enough to fight the mosquitoes. 



56 DOWN THE GREAT BIVER. 

Eager to reach higher ground, we again shouldered 
our luggage, and were soon on the trail following in 
the footsteps of Chenowagesic. Pushing rapidly for- 
ward, we gained the top of a hill at eleven o'clock, 
where we halted for rest and refreshment. Being out 
of mosquito range in this elevated region, we spent a 
few hours very pleasantly while the guides served din- 
ner and carried the canoes and luggage forward to the 
next lake. 

As soon as we were sufficiently recovered from the 
fatigues of the morning, we returned to the trail which 
had been our line of march since leaving Lake Gar- 
field. On descending the hill we were again beset by 
clouds of mosquitoes — in short, to parody Tennyson, 
there were 

Mosquitoes to right of us, 
Mosquitoes to left of us, 
Mosquitoes all around us, 
Singing and stinging. 

A few rods from the foot of the hill we came to a 
lake, the first of a chain of five lakes having for their 
outlet a small river known to the Indians as the Gabe- 
kanazeba, which in Chippewa means portage. 

Once more on the water^ we pulled through three 
lakes alternated by as many portages, and at night en- 
camped on the shore of a fourth lake. On the follow- 
ing morning we were astir at dawn. Had breakfast 
at sunrise, and by seven o'clock were again in our 
canoes paddling toward Itasca. The fifth and last of 
the portage chain was reached at ten o'clock. Learn- 
ing from my guides that these beautiful lakes had 
never before, to their knowledge, been seen by white 
men, I named them successively Bayard, Stoneman, 
Pleasanton, Custer and Kilpatrick, as a tribute to th« 



EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 57 

favorite IJDion cavalry leaders of the late war — patriot 
soldiers who deserve well of tlieir conntrj, and to 
whose calls I had often responded in the campaigns of 
the Army of the Potomac. 

After crossing Lake Kilpatrick another string of 
portages was encountered, aggregating for the day no 
less than eight, alternating with as many lakes, all 
small, some of them being little more than ponds, ex- 
cept three which terminate the portage chain. Con- 
tinuing my cavalry column,! named these three lakes, 
which are fine bodies of water, successively Gregg, 
Davies and Sheridan ; after General Gregg of Penn- 
sylvania, under whom I served for a short period 
during the Gettysburg campaign ; General Davies of 
New York, on whose recommendation I received my 
first commission, and who rose from the rank of a 
major in my old regiment, the Harris Light Cavalry, 
to that of major-general and the command of the 
Cavalry Corps under Grant; and after that true 
knight of cavalry, Lieutenant- General Philip Henry 
Sheridan, hero of Cedar Creek and Five Forks. 

Towards evening we reached the largest sheet of 
water between Leech Lake and Lake Itasca, the In- 
dian name of which translated is Blue Snake Lake. 
We crossed this lake at a point where its width is 
about five miles, and carried our canoes to the summit 
of a narrow strip of land which separates it from 
another lake of less than half its size. Here, as else- 
where during our journey and voyage through Min- 
nesota, we found blueberries in great abundance, and 
it was with much difficulty that I persuaded my com- 
panions to perform their duties before they had satis- 
fied their cravings for this delicious fruit. 



58 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

As soon as we had decided upon a camp-ground, 
Paine and Chenowagesic pitched tents, my brother 
launched his canoe in quest of fish, while Moses La- 
gard, the interpreter, and his half-brother Sebatise pre- 
pared supper. 

After attending to the duties of the camp, I went 
down to the lake which we had just crossed, and 
strolled along the white sand beach of its western 
shore. Tracks of the wolf and deer were frequently 
seen in the sand — the first evidences of wild game in 
our journey. Retracing my steps I met George, who 
was just returning with a fine mess of bass, which, 
with corned beef and a small quantity of bread sup- 
plied by Lagard, afforded us an excellent meal, which 
all were fully prepared to enjoy. 

The mosquitoes, our inveterate enemies, did not 
neglect us here. On the contrary, they began their 
nightly orgies upon the going down of the sun ; where- 
upon we dampened the ardor of their spirits in a meas- 
ure by throwing a cordon of subdued fires entirely 
around our little camp at intervals of from ten to 
fifteen feet. We now enjoyed the alternative of endur- 
ing the smoke within the camp or fighting the mosqui- 
toes without. 

Next morning we had breakfast at five o'clock, struck 
tents at six, and a few moments later launched our 
canoes upon the beautiful lake which is a companion 
to the one we had crossed the previous evening. The 
first and largest of these lakes I called George, after 
my brother George, of Chicago, who accompanied me 
from Brainerd to the source of the Mississippi and 
thence to La Crosse in my descent of the river ; the 
other I named Paiue, after my constant companion, 



EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY, 59 

Barrett Channing Paine, of Indianapolis, Indiana, who 
stood at its head, drank from its farthest springs, and 
subsequently shared the privations, dangers and tri- 
umphs of my canoe voyage down the Great Kiver to 
the sea. 

Crossing Lake Paine, we made another portage of 
half a mile, which brought us to a small river known 
among the Chippewas as the Naiwa. Chenowage- 
sic explained that the Naiwa was a stream of consider- 
able length, having its origin in a lake which is in- 
fested with snakes, to which its name has reference. 
This lake I called Chenowagesic, after my faithful 
guide, and its outlet, the Naiwa, I denominated Lagard 
River, in honor of our interpreter. 

We descended Lagard River between five and six 
miles, and then portaged westward to another small 
river, with which it unites a few miles below. We 
found the new stream more decidedly marshy in the 
character of its shores, but not presenting in its plants 
or trees anything to distinguish it particularly from 
the Lagard. The water is still and pond-like. It 
presents some small areas of wild rice, and appears to 
be a favorite resort for the duck and teal, which fre- 
quently rose up before us, and were aroused again and 
again by our progress. 

Four hours of energetic paddling brought us to the 
foot of a lake where we halted a few moments to sur- 
vey. This lake presents a broad border of aquatic 
plants with somewhat blackish waters. It is the 
recipient of two brooks and may be considered as the 
source of the Eastern fork of the Mississippi. 

While passing through the lake we came upon 
several broods of mallard ducks, and my companions 



go DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

were not slow in testing their fowling pieces. A 
broadside from rifle, shot-gun and revolver was 
simultaneously opened, but, much to the chagrin of 
those who fired, only one duck was killed. The 
water fowl encountered here seem to exult in their 
seclusion, and evinced the infrequency of intrusion by 
flying a short distance and alighting within range of 
our fire-arms. 

We were about twenty minutes in traversing this 
lake, which I named Elvira, in memory of my eldest 
sister. Entering one of the brooks at its southern end 
we paddled up stream about thirty or forty rods, when 
we appeared to be involved in a morass where it seemed 
difficult either to make the land or advance further. 
In this we were not mistaken. Chenowagesic soon 
pushed his canoe into the rushes and exclaiuied : ^^Oma 
mikunna^^ — here is the portage. A man who is 
called on for the first time to debark in such a place 
will cast about for some dry spot to put his feet upon. 
No such spot, however, existed here. We stepped into 
rather warm pond-water, with a miry bottom. After 
wading a hundred yards or more the soil became firm, 
and we began to ascend a slight elevation, where the 
growth partook more of the character of a forest. Traces 
of a path appeared here, and we suddenly entered an 
opening which afforded an eligible place for landing. 
Evidences of former fires, the bones of birds, and 
scattered camp-poles indicated that it had previously 
been visited by Indians, whose migratory and undo- 
mesticated habits are of a character to create in the 
mind a suspicion of their determination never to be- 
come civilized and stationary. 

Having ascended this fork of the Mississippi 



EXPL ORA TlOIf AND DISCO VEB Y. g3 

to its source, it may be noted that it has not as 
yet been given a place as a separate river in our 
geography. None of the maps indicate the ultimate 
separation of the Mississippi above Lake Beraidji into 
two forks. It is a matter of much surprise that this 
river should have been kept so long in darkness, 
especially when we consider the fact that its presence 
was known to white men nearly fifty years ago. I 
christened it De Soto River, as a tribute to the dis- 
coverer of the Mississippi, who though he failed to 
find gold and glory in the great valley which had 
lured him through the American wilderness, rendered 
a valuable contribution to the geographical knowl- 
edge of the sixteenth century. 

The sun was rapidly sinking behind the hills as we 
reached dry land, and being nearly exhausted by the 
portages of the day, and in want of refreshment, a 
camp-ground was at once decided upon, and prepara- 
tions for supper begun. 

It was at this point that we first discovered a 
deficiency in our supply of rations. At the outset we 
counted largely upon our fire-arms and fishing-tackle 
to reinforce our bacon and canned meats; thus far, 
however, but one duck had been killed, and, as com- 
pared with our former estimates, but few fish had 
been caught. Then, as a climax to our embarrass- 
ments, my brother had the misfortune to lose the 
trolling hooks and nearly all the ammunition while 
passing through a bog in the last portage. Much 
powder and ball had also been consumed by my 
white companions, who sought to test their marks- 
manship upon every animate object along our line of 

march. A strict adherence to truth compels me to 
5 



64 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

say that up to this time, much to their chagrin, the 
entire outlay of ammunition resulted in caging but the 
one duck previously alluded to. 

We were now not less than seven days from the 
trading post at Cass Lake, and with only about two 
days' rations. Not even an Indian could be found in 
that lonely region with whom to parley for food. It 
may be safely concluded that before we retired to our 
tents that night we looked our project squarely in the 
face. Despatch in our onward progress was earnestly 
recommended. An equal distribution of rations, and 
the most rigid economy in the use of ammunition, 
was also insisted upon. 

A dense fog which completely enveloped the swamp 
in our immediate front prevented our getting upon 
the trail until seven o'clock in the morning of July 
twenty-first, and it was even then impossible to distin- 
guish objects at a distance of twenty yards. While wait- 
ing for the fog to raise, a small flock of pigeons dropped 
into the tops of some tall pines near by. George and 
Paine were inclined to observe their usual practice of 
discharging their fire-arms ; but, as I considered the 
pigeons out of range, I reminded them that no more 
ammunition could be thrown away upon uncertainties. 

The distance from the eastern to the western branch 
of the Mississippi is between six and seven miles. 
Beginning in a marsh the portage soon reaches a slight 
elevation covered with a growth of cedar, spruce, 
white pine and tamarack; then plunges into a swamp 
malted with fallen trees, obscured by moss. From the 
swamp the trail emerges upon dry ground, whence it 
soon ascends an elevation of oceanic sand, presenting 
boulders and bearing pines. There is then another 



EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY, ^5 

descent and another elevation. In short, this portage 
carried us over a series of dihivial sand-ridges which 
form the height of land between the Mississippi and 
Red Eiver of the North. It may be said that thes^ 
ridges constitute the table-land between the waters of 
Hudson's Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and give rise 
to the remotest tributaries of the River Saint Louis? 
which through Lake Superior and its connecting chain 
may be considered as furnishing the head-waters of the 
Saint Lawrence. This is unquestionably the highest 
land of North America between the Alleghenies and 
Rocky Mountains. 

Chenowagesic led the way while crossing this high- 
land, followed by the other guides, each carrying as 
usual a canoe and a portion of the luggage. George, 
Paine and myself moved forward on the trail in 
Indian file. As soon as all were in motion we pushed 
rapidly along, stopping occasionally for rest. The 
Chippewas denominate each of these stops opugid- 
jewinon, or a place of putting down the burden. 
Thirteen of these halts were given by Chenowagesic as 
the distance to Lake Itasca. The trail is often ob- 
scured by a dense undergrowth, and requires the 
precision of an Indian eye to detect it. Even the 
guide was sometimes disconcerted, and went forward 
to explore. About midway of the portage we came to 
a small lake, into which we quickly put the canoes 
and pulled for the opposite shore. The route bey-and 
was more obstructed by underbrush. To avoid this 
"we waded through the margins of a couple of ponds, 
near which we observed old camp-poles, indicating 
former journeys of the Chippewas. 

We found the weather much warmer than we had an- 



gg DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

ticipated for Northern Minnesota, and not favorable to 
much exertion in bird or beast. Several flocks of 
pigeons and other birds common to northern lati- 
tudes were frequently observed. Tracks of deer were 
numerous in the marshes skirting the ponds, but 
traveling without the precaution required in hunt- 
ing, we had no opportunity of seeing this animal in 
the high grounds. Ripe strawberries were found on 
the hillsides, and a very small species of the rasp- 
berry was brought to me by Chenowagesic at one 
of the resting-places. The student of botany would 
consider the plants few and of little consequence. 

On turnins: out of a thicket at the foot of the last 
elevation, between three and four o'clock in the after- 
noon, our longing eyes rested upon the waters of 
Lake Ttasea. A few moments later we were floating 
on its placid bosom, and, after a pull of between two 
and three miles, reached Schoolcraft Island. This 
island derives its name from Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, 
who discovered Itasca in 1832, and erroneously located 
it as the source of the Mississippi. 

Hitherto the claim of Schoolcraft has been unques- 
tioned, and for half a century Lake Itasca has enjoyed 
the honor of standing at the head of the Father of 
Waters. The island is about three-quarters of an 
acre in extent, and so densely studded with under- 
growth tha^ vve experienced much difficulty in clearing 
a place for our tents. We found here but two or 
three trees worthy of notice, the most prominent of 
which was a tall, gray pine, and on this Paine blazed 
our names and the date of our encampment. 

Itasca is in every respect a beautiful lake, between 
five and six miles in length, and from one-fourth to 



EXPLORA TlOJSr AND DISCO VER Y, 67 

three-fourths of a mile in width. It has three arms — 
one to the southeast, three miles long ; one extending 
to the southwest from the island ; and one reaching 
northward to the outlet two and a half miles. Its 
greatest length is from southeast to northwest. I 
asked Chenowagesic the Chippewa name of this 
lake, and he replied "Omushkos/^ which means Elk. 
Schoolcraft tells us that the word Itasca is derived 
from the mythological and necromantic notions of the 
Chippewas concerning the origin and mutations of the 
country. 

We were in no condition to enjoy our delightful 
surroundings at this point, in consequence of the re- 
duced state of our supplies. Determined upon a 
thorough exploration of the region adjacent to Lake 
Itasca, we w^ere now confronted \\\i\\ a subject for 
serious consideration. We were at least six days 
from the nearest post of relief, and entirely out of 
rations, with the exception of a small piece of bacon 
and a few pounds of flour. The trolling-hooks were 
lost, and there were but sixty-five rounds of ammuni- 
tion left. In this dilemma my white companions fa- 
vored exploration. The Indians preferred an imme- 
diate descent of the river. 




CHAPTER Y. 

TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

'HE exhausting portages of July twenty- 
first, between the east and west forks of 
the Mississippi, prepared us for a sleep 
"^ which even the Minnesota mosquitoes 
could not disturb, and which was not broken 
until long after the sun was glinting upon 
us through the trees on the morning of the twenty- 
second. Although I had cautioned the guides to 
awaken me at dawn, I found them snoring lustily at 
six o'clock. 

As soon as all were astir, Chenowagesic and the 
Lagards prepared breakfast. George struck tents and 
rolled the blankets, while Paine busied himself with 
an article for the Saint Paul Pioneer Press, descriptive 
of our voyage to Lake Itasca. Bat little ceremony 
\'/as observed at breakfast, which was served with a 
due regard to our scant rations, and consisted of a 
small slice of bacon and a "flap-jack/' each of very 
meagre dimensions. 

Notwithstanding the fact that we were now con- 
fronted with empty haversacks and nearly depleted 
cartridge boxes, my companions were still eager to 
follow my lead in the work of exploration beyond 
Itasca^ which, from the beginning, had beeio the con- 



TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 69 

trolling incentive of our expedition, the grand objective 
towards which we bent all our energies. To stand at 
the SOURCE; to look upon the remotest rills and 
springs which contribute to the birth of the Great 
River of .North America; to write ^ms in the volume 
opened by the renowned De Soto, more than three 
hundred years ago, and in which Marquette, La Salle, 
Hennepin, La Hontan, Carver, Pike, Beltrami, 
Schoolcraft and Nicollet have successively inscribed 
their names, were quite enough to revive the droop- 
ing spirits of the most depressed. 

During our encampment on the island Chenowa- 
gesic again reminded me that he had planted corn 
there many years before, and that his wigwam once 
stood near the spot where we had pitched our tents. 
He also repeated what he had told me before launching 
the canoes at Leech Lake, that the region about Lake 
Itasca was his hunting ground, and that he was 
thoroughly acquainted with all the rivers, lakes and 
ponds within a hundred miles. He further said that 
Paul Beaulieu was in error concerning the source of 
the Great River, and led me to conclude that the 
primal reservoir was above and beyond Itasca, and 
that this lake was simply an expansion of the Missis- 
sippi, as are Bemidji, Cass, Winnibegoshish, Pepin and 
several others. 

Fully convinced that the statements of Chenowa- 
gesic were entirely trustworthy, and knowing from 
past experience that he was perfectly reliable as a 
guide, w^e put our canoes into the water at eight 
o'clock, and at once began coasting Itasca for its 
feeders. We found the outlets of six small streams, 
two having well-defined mouths, and four filtering 



70 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

into the lake through bogs. The upper end of the 
southwestern arm is heavily margined with reeds and 
rushes, and it was not without considerable difficulty 
that we forced our way through this barrier into the 
larger of the two open streams which flow into this 
end of the lake. 

Although perfectly familiar with the topography of 
the country, and entirely confident that he could lead 
us to the beautiful lake which he had so often 
described, Chenowagesic was for several moments 
greatly disturbed by the net- work of rushes in which 
we found ourselves temporarily entangled. Leaping 
from his canoe, he pushed the rushes right and left 
with his paddle, and soon, to our great delight, threw 
up his hands and gave a characteristic " Chippewa 
yell," thereby signifying that he had found the object 
of his search. Returning, he seized the bow of my 
canoe, and pulled it after him through the rushes out 
into the clear, glistening waters of the infant Missis- 
sippi, which, at the point of entering Itasca, is seve» 
fe»t wide, and from twelve to fifteen inches deep. 

Lusty work with our paddles for half an hour 
brought us to a blockade of fallen timber. Determined 
to float in my canoe upon the surface of the lake 
towards which we were paddling, I directed the guides 
to remove the obstructions, and continued to urge the 
canoes rapidly forward, although opposed by a strong 
and constantly increasing current. Sometimes we 
found it necessary to lift the canoes over logs, and 
occasionally to remove diminutive sand-bars from the 
bed of the stream with our paddles. As we neared 
the head of this primal section of the mighty river, we 
could readily touch both shores with our hands at 



TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. *f\ 

the saaie time, while the average depth of water in 
the channel did not exceed ten inches. 

Every paddle stroke seemed to increase the ardoi 
with which we were carried forward. The desire to 
see the actual source of a river so celebrated as the 
Mississippi, whose mouth had been reached nearly 
two centuries before, was doubtless the impelling mo- 
tive. In their eagerness to obtain a first view of the 
beautiful lake toward which we were paddling, and 
greatly annoyed by the slow progress made in the 
canoes, my brother and Paine stepped ashore and 
proposed a race to the crest of the hill which Cheno- 
wagesic told them overhung the lake. To this 
proposition of my companions I made objection, and 
insisted that all should see the goal of our expedition 
from the canoes. What had long been sought at last 
appeared suddenly. On pulling and pushing our way 
through a net-work of rushes, similar to the one en- 
countered on leaving Itasca, the cheering sight of a 
transparent body of water burst upon our view. It 
was a beautiful lake — the source of the Father oi 
Waters. 

A few moments later, and our little flotilla of three 
canoes was put in motion, headed for a small prom- 
ontory which we discovered at the opposite end of 
the lake. We paddled slowly across one of the most 
pure and tranquil bodies of water of which it is pos- 
sible to conceive. Not a breath of air was stirring. 
We halted frequently to scan its shores, and to run 
our eyes along the verdure-covered hills which enclose 
its basin. These elevations are at a distance of from 
three to four miles, and are covered chiefly with white 
pines, intermingled with the cedar, spruce and tama* 



72 Down THE GREAT RIVER. 

rack. The beach is fringed with a mixed foliage of 
the evergreen species. At one point we observed 
pond lilies, and at another a small quantity of wild 
rice. 

As wd neared the headland, a deer was seen stand- 
ing on the shore, and an eagle swept over our heads 
with food for its young, which we soon discovered 
were lodged in the top of a tall pine. The waterfowl 
noticed upon the lake were apparently little disturbed 
by our presence, and seldom left the surface of the 
water. 

This lake is about a mile and a half in greatest 
diameter, and would be nearly an oval in form but for 
a single promontory which extends its shores into the 
lake so as to give it in outline the appearance of a 
heart. Its feeders are three small creeks, two of 
which enter on the right and left of the headland, and 
have their origin in springs at the foot of sand-hills 
from five to six miles distant. Tlie third is but 
little more than a mile in length, has no clearly de- 
fined course, and is the outlet of a small lake situated 
in a marsh to the south westward. These three creeks 
were named in the order of their discovery : Eagle, 
Excelsior and Deer. The small lake, which is the 
source of Eagle Creek, I called Alice, after my 
daughter. 

Having satisfied myself as to its remotest feeders, I 
called my companions into line at the foot of the 
promontory which overlooks the lake, and talked for a 
few moments of the Mississippi and its explorers, tell- 
' ing them I was confident that we were looking upon 
the TRUE SOURCE of the Great River, and that we had 
completed a work begun by De Soto, in 1541, and 



TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 75 

had corrected a geographical error of half a century's 
standing. Concluding my remarks, I requested a 
volley from their fire-arms for each member of the 
party, in commemoration of our discovery. When 
the firing ceased, Paine gave me a surprise, by step- 
ping to the front and proposing " that the newly dis- 
covered lake be named glazier in honor of the leader 
of the expedition/' The proposition was seconded 
by Moses Lagard, the interpreter, and carried by accla- 
mation, notwithstanding my protest that it should 
retain its Indian name, Po-keg-a-ma. 

Much to the surprise of every one, as we were 
about closing our ceremonies, Chenowagesic assumed 
an oratorical attitude, and addressed me as follows, in 
a few words of true Indian eloquence. *^ My brother, 
I have come with you through many lakes and rivers 
to the head of the Father of Waters. The shores of 
this lake are ray hunting-ground. Here I have had 
my wigwam and planted corn for many years. When 
I again roam through these forests, and look on this 
lake, source of the Great Eiver, I will look on you." 

The latitude of this lake is not far from 47°. Its 
height above the sea is an object of geographical 
interest, which, in the absence of actual survey, it may 
subserve the purposes of useful inquiry to estimate. 
From notes taken during the ascent it cannot be less 
than seven feet above Lake Itasca. Adding the esti- 
mate of 1575 feet submitted by Schoolcraft in 1832, as 
the elevation of that lake, the Mississippi may be said 
to originate in an altitude of 1582 feet above the 
Atlantic Ocean. Taking forr^icr estimates as the basis 
and computing reasonably through the western fork, 
its length may be placed at 3184 miles. Assuming 



76 



DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 



that the barometrical height of its source is 1582 feet, 
it has a mean descent of over six inches per mile. 

At Lake Bemidji the Mississip})i reaches its highest 
northing, wliich is in the neighborhood of 47° 30^ 
The origin of the river in an untraveled and secluded 
region between Leech Lake and tlie Rod River of the 
North, not less than a degree of latitude south of 
Turtle Lake, which was for a long time supposed to 
be the source, removes both foi-ks of the stream out 
side the usual track of the fur-traders, and presents a 
good reason, perhaps, why its fountain-head has re° 
raained so long enveloped in uncertaintjo 




^::;=r::JjHE^ Infant Mississippi 



CHAPTER VI. 

DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Camp Discovery, 

Ten Miles Below Lake Itasca^ 
July 22, 1881. 

Standing at the source of the Missis- 
sippi, around which so many beautiful 
Indian legends cluster, and about which 
the white man has ever had much 
curiosity, I trust I felt a natural throb of 
pride in contemplation of the fact that at 
least a portion of my plan had been successfully 
executed ; I had also a confident belief that the 
future held further good in store for us. 

All being ready, and with the exclamation, " Now 
for the Gulf of Mexico ! ^' I directed the canoes to be 
put into the water, and in a moment more Ave were 
on our way back to Lake Itasca ; our speed greatly 
accelerated by the prospect of soon reaching our 
rations, which, for convenience, had been left with 
the luggage on Schoolcraft Island. This pull down 
to Itasca was in reality the first step in my voyage 
from source to sea, for as yet but a small portion of 
the undertaking had been realized. The old ex- 
plorers had only navigated portions of the Great 

(77) 




fS DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

River. It was my purpose to descend its entire course 
from the remotest springs in the wilds of Minnesota 
to its outlet in the Gulf of Mexico. I desired to be- 
come familiar with the most striking features of the 
Mighty River, and to study, through personal inter- 
course, the varying phases of American life and 
character upon its banks. No one had ever attempted 
this before, and it is hardly probable that any one will 
ever attempt it again, for the perils of a voyage of 
over three thousand miles in an open canoe are not 
purely imaginary. And yet this was the only way in 
which I could practically and satisfactorily accom- 
plish my purpose of making careful observations 
along the route traversed. 

On our way down Itasca, my brother improvised a 
trolling-hook by twisting a piece of wire from a tin 
can into the form of a hook, and by using a small 
piece of red flannel as a decoy, caught two fine 
pickerel. Just as we were nearing the island, Lagard, 
the interpreter, called my attention to a bald eagle 
sitting on a log, with a large, black bass in his talons, 
which he had evidently taken from the water but a 
moment before. A shot from my revolver had no 
other effect than to lead him to drop his prey, which, 
with the fish already cauglit by George, made a most 
acceptable meal for our little party, who now began to 
realize the extremity to which we were reduced. A 
few ounces of flour, and not more than two pounds of 
bacon, was at this time the sum total of our reserve 
rations ; and yet we were several days from the nearest 
trading post. 

Dinner over at the island, we hastily re-embarked 
and continued our course down Itasca. The outlet 



BOULDERS AND FALLEN TREES. 79 

Jies to the northwest of the island, and proved to be 
a brisk brook, with a mean width of ten feet, and a 
depth of from fifteen to twenty inches. The water is 
exceedingly clear, and we at ojce found ourselves glid- 
ing over a sandy and pebbly bottom, strewed with the 
scattered valves of shell-fish, at a lively rate. Its 
banks are overhung with limbs and braLches covered 
with foliage, which sometimes reach across and inter- 
lace. The bends are short, and have accumulations 
of flood wood, so that we often found it necessary to 
clear a passage with our axes. The Indians fre- 
quently suggested a portage, to which I invariably 
objected, being determined to paddle my canoe down 
the entire course of the Mississij)pi where possible. 
There was constant danger of running against boulders 
of black rock, lying along the margin or piled up in 
the channel of the stream; and nothing but the most 
strenuous eiforts on the part of our pilots preserved 
our canoes from immediate destruction. As the ve- 
locity of the current increased, we were hurled, as it 
were, through the narrow gorges, and would have dc' 
scended at a prodigiously rapid rate had it not been 
for these interruptions to navigation. 

The course of the river was northwesterly. After 
descending about ten miles, it enters a savanna where 
the channel is wider and deeper, but equally irregular. 
This extends some seven or eight miles. It then 
breaks its way through a pine ridge, where the channel 
is again very much confined and rapid, the rushing, 
tearing current threatening every njoment to dash the 
canoes into a thousand pieces. The pilots were often 
in the water to guide the canoes, or stood ever readjr 
with their paddles to fend off. 



30 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

We disembarked and pitched tents in a grove of 
poplars on the right bank, directly opposite the mouth 
of the first stream that enters the Mississippi below 
Lake Itasca. This tributary is evidently the one to 
which Paul Beaulieu referred in his conversation with 
me at Leech Lake, and which he supposed might lead 
to the true source of the Mississippi. A careful in- 
vestigation established the fact that Beaulieu was in 
error, and confirms the theory that the lake located and 
named by our party is the fountain head. Although 
a small stream, I deemed it of sufficient importance 
to be styled a river, and bestowed upon it the name of 
the zealous missionary and explorer, Marquette. 
Marquette Kiver is some fifteen miles in length, has 
two small tributaries and is the outlet of four beauti- 
ful lakes which I named after Captain Charles 
Gordinier Hampton, of Detroit, Michigan ; Lieu- 
tenant John Arthur Richardson, of Albany, New 
York ; Moses W. Lemon, of Canton, New York, and 
John W. Wright, of Des Moines, Iowa; companions 
of my imprisonment and escapes during the war of the 
Rebellion. 

Reflecting upon the Mississippi and its thousand 
tributaries, it is perhaps but a natural sentiment that the 
first to enter and pay tribute is entitled to more than 
a passing notice. In its onward march, the mighty 
river will take to its bosom, among others, the Min- 
nesota, St. Croix, Des Moines, Wisconsin, Missouri, 
Illinois, Ohio, Yazoo, Arkansas and Red, all among 
the first rivers of the world, and yet their position on 
the family tree is not more important than the little 
Marquette, which bears the same relation to its source 
that the great Red River does to its mouth. If one 



OXJI OF RATIONS. 81 

is last, the other is first to swell its ever increasing 
flood. 

Our camp opposite the mouth of the Marquette 
will long be remembered by my companions as the 
place where we first felt the gnawings of hunger, for 
it was here that the last of our rations was consumed, 
and we retired to our tents with appetites half satis- 
fied after a day of unusual fatigue ; add to empty 
haversacks the tortures of our inveterate enemies, the 
mosquitoes, and the reader will have some idea of our 
situation at the close of the first day in the descent of 
the Mississippi. 

Seronir gag. 

Camp Otter, 

Fifteen Miles Below Marquette Bivery 
July Twenty-third. 

We struck tents at six o'clock in the morning, 
and a few moments later were in our canoes and again 
descending the river. I immediately took position in 
the bow of the leading canoe with shotgun in hand, 
ready for game of any description which might appear 
in our front, for we were now entirely destitute of 
rations, with but little ammunition, and our fishing 
tackle in the bogs beyond Itasca. It was at once ap- 
parent that for some days at least, our explorations 
would lie more in the direction of food than the 
topography of the country. My companions were 
cautioned to keep a sharp lookout for evidences of 
animal life on the banks of the river, while the 
guides were instructed to be on the alert for ducks, as 
the Chippewas are adepts in killing many varieties 
of waterfowl by means of their paddles. 



82 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

The same order in our descent of the river had 
tlius far been adhered to which was observed in the 
voyage to Lake Itasca, the stream being still so 
narrow as to necessitate our moving forward in In- 
dian file. Moses Lagard continued with me as pilot 
in the first canoe, which had been christened " Dis- 
covery '' by Paine. My brother followed with Cheno- 
wagesic, in the Alice, named after my daughter, 
while Mr. Paine, with Sebatise Lagard, brought up 
the rear in the Itasca. 

We had been in our canoes but a few moments when 
my attention was drawn to a slight ripple on the sur- 
face of the water. An instant later I saw a small, 
black object pointing down stream about twenty 
yards in advance of my canoe. Moses Lagard cried 
out at the top of his voice, ''Shoot him ! Shoot him. 
Captain ! " Suiting the action to the word, I at once 
fired, and a moment later had the satisfaction of pull- 
ing in an otter, one of the finest prizes of our voyage; 
and, as will soon appear, a rare piece of good fortune 
at this time. Although many years before I had been 
counted something of a trapper, this was the first otter 
I had seen, and, as may be well supposed, was some- 
what elated with my shot and trophy. The guides 
unanimously voted me a great hunter, as is the custom 
of the Chippewas whenever a member of their tribe 
kills this animal. 

Turning a bend in the river, a brood of ducks next 
received our attention. A round from the shotgun 
put two juveniles on their backs, and sent the re- 
mainder under the surface apparently frightened by 
the discharge. The crews of both the Alice and 
Itasca were soon at the scene of action, the Indians 



PADDLING FOR DUCKS. 83 

screaming and gesticulating in the wildest manner in 
order to keep the ducks under water. An excitmg 
chase now ensued, in which Indian skill in the use of 
the paddle was fully demonstrated. Eagerly watching 
for some evidence of the presence of his game, the prac- 
tised eye of Chenovvagesic readily got its bearings. A 
few sharp strokes of his paddle brought him in range, 
and then raising the paddle to a perpendicular, he sent 
it straight to the back of his prey. Another duck 
was captured in the same manner by Sebatise, which, 
with the two brought down by the shotgun, gave us 
a light breakfast, as all the- ducks were young and 
small. My companions insisted that their leader 
should have one duck entirely to himself, but to this 
I objected, saying that whatever fortune had in store 
for us should always be equally divided. 

Greatly encouraged by the good luck of the morn- 
ing, it now seemed that if we had sufficient ammuni- 
tion, or if the guides should be successful in paddling 
for game, we might pull through to the trading post 
at Lake Bemidji without serious difficulty. But right 
here was the rub : we had but twenty-three rounds 
of ammunition left, and while fortune had favored us 
once at least with the paddles, there was a much 
larger proportion of chance than certainty for the fu- 
ture. 

Breakfast over, we were soon again gliding rapidly 
down the river, our speed greatly accelerated by a 
constantly increasing current. The strong rapids con- 
tinued at intervals, and were rendered more dangerous 
by limbs of trees which stretched across the stream, 
threatening to sweep everything movable out of the 
canoes. In consequence of these obstructions all 



84 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

hands were kept busy cutting away drift and remov- 
ing boulders with which the stream was literally 
choked. 

Five miles below the mouth of Marquette Hiver 
we came to a small stream having its source in a lake 
to the westward. I gave to this lake the name of 
Beaulieu, the veteran Government interpreter, to whom 
reference has been previously made. Chenowagesic 
informed me that this lake is but a short distance 
from the source of the Red River of the North. 

The series of rapids encountered during the day 
and the consequent interruption to navigation, kept us 
so well employed, that even had game been seen, no 
time was found for hunting, and it was with sensations 
of hunger, as well as fatigue, that we debated the 
situation in our new camp. The propriety of eating 
the otter killed in the morning was freely discussed. 
I knew from early information obtained as a trapper, 
that this animal was seldom, if ever, eaten by white 
men, and then only when driven to great extremity. 
Their catlike appearance is quite enough to neutralize 
the cravings of hunger under ordinary circumstances. 
George and Paine declared they would starve before 
eating anything so repulsive in appearance, and started 
in pursuit of blueberries. Lagard and Chenowagesic 
said that otter was as good as baked dog, and at once 
proceeded to dress it for supper, while Sebatise made 
a small fire of pine knots, with which to roast their 
prize; for the Indians were determined to show us 
the edible qualities of the otter. 

Returning to camp after a fruitless search for ber- 
ries, George and Paine were in a humor to join me in 
an otter steak a la Chippewa. It is perhaps needless 



EATING AN OTTEE. 85 

to add that Mr. Otter is not so black as he has fre- 
quently been painted, and the only regret upon fin- 
ishing our rather unsavory supper was, that our four- 
legged friend had not been of larger dimensions, for he 
was both small and poor. 1 may further observe that 
it is quite natural to conclude that, as this animal 
subsists chiefly upon fish and vegetables, it may be 
eaten v*^ithout hesitation, whenever the hunter or 
voyageur findiS himself in straits for more palatable food. 
Although the second day was a day of incessant 
toil with axes and paddles, we only advanced fifteen 
miles. Greatly refreshed, however, by our evening 
meal and thankful that our condition was no worse, 
we retired to our tents hopeful for the morrcw* 



CHAPTER yil. 



PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. 




tijirb JDag. 

Camp Hunger, 

Forty Miles Above Lake Bemid^% 
July 24, 1881. 

EING still without rations all hands went 
in pursuit of blueberries at six o'clock this 
morning, but soon returned after a fruitleae 
search, and again launched our canoes, 
rusting to the fates for something of an eat- 
able character. 
Another chain of rapids was encountered a few 
yards below Camp Otter. We were nearly an hour 
in passing down these rapids, when we reached the 
Kakabikons Falls. This little cataract is a swift 
rush of water, bolting through a narrow gorge, with- 
out a perpendicular fall. Chenowagesic suggested that 
we should make a portage, but after consultation, we 
decided to keep the canoes in the water as their crews 
were so reduced in strength as to be unable to carry 
the luggage. 

While halting at its head for Paine to come up 
George caught hold of my canoe in order to bring his 
own to a stand. He succeeded in his purpose. But 

being checked suddenly, the stern of his canoe swung 

(86) 




.. - ■■■■ .1 ■ ■■! ■ ■■■■I. ^ m ^ •■'W-J^ J 



PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. §9 

across the stream, which permitted his pilot to catch 
hold of the limb of a fallen tree. Thus stretched 
tensely across the rapid stream, in an instant the water 
burst over the gunwale^ precipitating its contents into 
the swift current. The water was about four feet deep. 
George and his pilot found footing with considerable 
difficulty, but his canoe, tent, blankets, gun and every- 
thing, were swept over the falls and lost. He clung 
to his paddle, however, and by feeling with his feet 
brought up his fowling-piece. 

Following the overturned canoe, we came up with it 
at the foot of the rapids, but injured the balance of 
our little fleet so much in the descent as to cause us 
considerable delay. It was hoped that this misfortune 
would prove a valuable lesson to George, who, not- 
withstanding the fact that he had already been cap- 
sized five or six times, had yet, it seemed, much to 
learn of navigation in birch canoes. Below these 
rapids the river receives a tributary on the right hand, 
which I called Joliet River, after the distinguished 
French explorer, Louis Joliet, who was for many 
years the companion of both La Salle and Hennepin. 
We found the volume of the Mississippi nearly 
doubled by the junction of this stream, and hence its 
savanna borders were greatly enlarged. I noticed 
frequently among the shrubbery on its shores the wild 
rose and clumps of the salix. The channel winds 
through these savanna borders capriciously. At a 
point where we landed for blueberries, on an open 
pine bank, on the left shore, we noted several copious 
and clear springs pouring into the river. Indeed 
the extensive sand ranges which traverse the wood- 
lands of this section of the Mississippi are per- 



90 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

fectly charged with the moisture condensed on these 
elevations, which flows in through a thousand rills. 

The physical character of the stream made this part 
of our route a most rapid one. Willing or unwilling, 
we were hurried on ; but indeed we had every desire 
to hasten the descent, for hunger, gaunt and stern, 
Btill stared at us from each succeeding bend of the 
river. Towards evening, Sebatise caught two black 
bass, with a hook made from a small piece of tin, 
while I killed four mallard ducks with three rounds 
of my shot-gun. 

We disembarked a little before sunset and pitched 
tents on a hillside covered wnth Norway pines. After 
carefully discussing the situation, it was unanimously 
voted that the ducks should be reserved for breakfast, 
as we had learned from experience that we could 
better dispense with our rations at night than in the 
morning, when we had a day of paddling before us. 
My surprise can be readily imagined by those familiar 
with Indian character, when about midnight I heard 
loud grumbling in the tent occupied by the interpreter 
and guides. They had reconsidered their vote and were 
now in favor of eating fish and ducks at once. Believ- 
ing that the course we had previously decided upon 
was best for all, I reasoned a few moments with our 
dusky friends, and then ordered guns and game to my 
own tent. This put an end to the disaffection and we 
again retired to sleep as best we could. I may here 
add that in my experience among Indians I have 
observed that when in the possession of food they 
seldom defer eating it, but when their larders are 
empty they patiently submit to the gnawings' of hun- 
ger. 



PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. 91 

iburtt) JDaj). 

Camp Starvation, 

Twenty Miles Above Lake Bemidji^ 

July Twenty-fifth. 

All were astir at dawn. The much coveted fish 
and ducks were hastily dressed and broiled. A very 
simple calculation showed me that if four ducks of 
nearly equal size were to be divided fairly between 
six persons, each should receive four-sixths of one 
duck, and upon this basis I quickly made the apportion- 
ment. As to the fish, which could not have weighed 
more than a half pound, it was somewhat difficult to 
divide, and so it was voted that the leader of the ex- 
pedition should have the entire fish ration. This 
courtesy on the part of my companions was gratefully 
acknowledged, and I venture to say that I regarded 
it at the time as one of the highest compliments ever 
paid to leadership. 

It is perhaps needless to add that fish and ducks 
were speedily disposed of, tents struck, and canoes 
again put into the Vv^ater. We were now within two 
days of Lake Bemidji, which we had looked forward 
to as a post of relief since leaving Itasca. The only 
obstacle to rapid progress in the descent of the river 
was our exhausted condition, which seriously interfered 
with a vigorous use of the paddles. 

A few yards below our last encampment, on turning 
a bend in the river, we came suddenly upon an old 
duck of the onzig species and her brood, which at tJiis 
season are unfledged. This seemed a providential 
interposition, and I at once sent a charge from the 
shot-gun after them, but with no other effect than to 



§2 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

kill one young duck and apparently wound its mother. 
As to the parent bird, however, I was greatly deceived ; 
it affected for the moment to be disabled, flapped its 
wings upon the water as if it could not rise, in order 
to allow her young to escape, when she suddenly 
arose and winged her flight beyond the reach of 
my fowling-piece. Following the shot-gun, the In- 
dians closed up, gesticulating and screaming loudly, 
thereby frightening and keeping several of the ducks 
under water. An instant later, Chenowagesic sent his 
paddle straight home to the back of a juvenile duck, 
which, as soon as it came to the surface, was thrown 
into my canoe amid the shouts of the entire party. 
We were now two ducks ahead and hopeful of a further 
reinforcement of our commissariat before nightfall. 

At ten o'clock we reached the mouth of a stream, 
having its source in a lake a few miles north of Lake 
Itasca. This is the second tributary entering on the 
right, and is the largest as well as the longest so far 
encountered. I named it La Salle River, in honor of 
Chevalier Robert de la Salle. 

Several flocks of pigeons passed over our heads early 
in the afternoon, but as they were so far above us as 
to be out of shot range, I did not think it advisable to 
waste ammunition. My brother noticed a deer grazing 
at some distance from a point where we landed to search 
for blueberries ; but while he crept up cautiously to 
within a few yards, he failed in his shot, either from 
the distance or want of practice. He immediately 
threw a fresh cartridge into his gun and fired again, 
before the animal had made many leaps, but to no 
purpose. 

A halt was made at three o'clock for rest and 



PERILS AND privations: 93 

refreshment, for we were so much exhausted by this 
time from paddling and want of food that we could 
proceed no farther. Lagard helped me out of my 
canoe and led me to the shade of a small tree, for on 
attempting to walk I found I was too weak to do so 
without assistance. The two ducks killed in the morn- 
ing, together with a mud-turtle caged by Chenowagesicj 
were quickly broiled, and as quickly devoured. A 
few blueberries were gathered by George, which he 
divided equally among his companions. 

At four o'clock the canoes were again put into the 
water and the descent of the river continued. Our 
progress for some miles was greatly retarded by a 
eluggish current, the route lying through wild rice 
riavannas, the most extensive we had yet seen. These 
rice savannas seem indispensable to the Indian tribes 
of the Upper Mississippi, who rely upon them largely 
for their winter sustenance. Toward evening we 
eame to the junction of a considerable stream, known 
among the Indians as the Pinidiwin River. This 
river originates in a lake on the northwestern summit 
of a range of hills called the Hauteur des Terres. It 
has another lake also near the point where it enters 
the Mississippi. One of these lakes is known as 
Monomina, the other I named Beltrami, after the emi- 
nent Frenchman who preceded Schoolcraft in Missis- 
sippi exploration. 

Just below the mouth of the Pinidiwin a flock of 
wild geese passed over our heads. This was, under 
the circumstances, a very great temptation, and, while 
they were apparently beyond short range, I ventured a 
round of ammunition upon them, without effect. 
This was a hard blow. The sun was sinking behind 



94 nOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

the distant hills, and although we had eaten nothing 
since six o'clock in the morning, there was now no 
prospect of securing food before reaching Lake Be- 
midji. It was suggested that we should continue the 
descent during the night, but this was considered imprac- 
ticable, as the channel was so tortuous and unsettled as to 
render navigation extremely difficult except in day- 
light. We were still passing through wild rice and 
blue grass savannas where the river is constantly chang- 
ing its course, and the channel with which Chenowa- 
gesic was formerly familiar was now in many places 
filled up and overgrown with reeds and rushes. 

We disembarked at eight o'clock, about ten miles 
below the mouth of the Pinidiwin, and pitched our 
tents in a pine grove on the left bank. The day's 
descent was indeed an arduous one. George and 
Paine estimated it at twenty miles. Taking into 
consideration a sluggish current and lack of rations, 
it must be admitted that our progress was ail that 
could have been expected. 



CHAPTER yill. 

BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 

SUtl) SDag. 

Camp Eelief, 

Near Lake Bemidji, MinnMotOf 

July 26, 1881. 



f 




TRUCK tents at sunrise. Shot a musk- 
rat with our last round of ammunition, 
and killed two ducks with paddles early 
ir^ in the forenoon, which, with a few blue- 
berries gathered by the guides, gave us a 
scant dinner. Had we not been thus fa- 
vored, it is hard to say what our fate might 
have been, for we were so much reduced in 
strength by this time that it was with the greatest dif- 
ficulty we continued the descent of the river, aided 
only, as we were, by a sluggish current, and too weak 
to accomplish much with our paddles. A breakdown 
seemed inevitable, but this timely relief gave us 
renewed energy and braced us up for more vigorous 
work in pushing forward the canoes. 

We met a canoe late in the afternoon, about ten 
miles above Lake Bemidji, in which there were an 
Indian, his squaw and pappoose. Finding they had 
some dried fish and a small quantity of maple sugar, 
we proposed a purchase, which was made after oon- 
7 (95} 



&6 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

siderable parleying, and which resulted in our secur- 
ing four small perch and about two pounds of sugar. 
The Fates certainly favored us on this occasion, for 
had we been a few moments later we should not have 
seen these Indians, as at the time of our meeting they 
were about turning from the Mississippi to ascend one 
of its tributaries. 

As soon as we were in possession of sugar and fish it 
was voted that nothing should be eaten until our usual 
hour for supper ; but I may add that our wise resolu- 
tions were not very strictly adhered to, and the offi- 
cial having charge of the sugar was frequently visited 
upon errands having no refiM'ence to the points of the 
compass. 

We reached the mouth of the eastern fork of the 
Mississippi at five o'clock. This stream, to which al- 
lusion was made during our voyage to Lake Itasca, 
unites with the western fork about three miles south 
of Bemidji. We were now in latitude 47° 28' 46". 
Of the two primary streams which unite at this point, 
the one flowing from the west contributes by far the 
larger volume of water, possessing the greater velocity 
and breadth of current. 

A few moments before six o'clock we entered a 
beautiful little lake of clear water and a picturesque 
margin, spreading transversely to our course, to which 
I gave the name of Marquette. Chenowagesic led 
the way directly north across this body of water, strik- 
ing the river again on its opposite shore. 

The Mississippi at the point of leaving Lake Mar- 
quette is a broad, shallow channel, with rapid current. 
I estimated this channel to be not more than one 
hundred yards long, at which distance we entered the 



BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 97 

largest lake yet eucouutered in our seaward voyage. 
This fine body of water is known to the Chippewas as 
Pemidjegumaugj which is the Lac Traverse of the early 
French explorers. It appears upon the recent maps 
of Minnesota as Bemidji, which is an indifferent ab- 
breviation of its original title. The peculiarity recog- 
nized by the Indian name of Pemidjegumaug^ or 
cross- water, is found to consist in the circumstance of 
the entrance of the Mississippi into its extreme southern 
end, and its passage through or across part of it at a 
short distance from the point of entrance. 

Lake Bemidji is in every way a magnificent sheet 
of water, twelve miles in length from north to south, 
and six or seven broad, fringed by an open forest of 
hard wood. It is distant one hundred and forty-eight 
miles from the source of the river, and lies at an ele- 
vation of 1456 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, in 
latitude 47° 32' 45^'. 

Continuing our course w^e paddled across the southern 
end of Lake Bemidji to its outlet. Descending the 
river a short distance we came to high ground, which 
was considered favorable for a camp; halted and 
pitched tents a few moments before sunset. Here we 
were again brought to the realization of an empty larder. 
Every grain of sugar had disappeared. The last 
round of ammunition was gone, and but four small 
dried perch left to carry us to Lake Winnibegoshish, 
distant about a hundred miles ; for we had now learned 
that the trading post at this point, and also that at 
Cass Lake, had some time since been abandoned. The 
fish w^ere carefully cut up and distributed, which, wnth 
a few blueberries found near our encampment, afforded 
temporary refreshment and seat us to our tents musing, 



9S DOWJ!i THE GREAT RIVER. 

not SO much upon the beautiful scenery which had 
arrested our attention during the afternoon, as upon 
the probabilities of bagging something of an eatable 
character on the morrow. 



jSWl) JBa^. 



Camp Chippewa, 

Cas8 Lake, Minnesota, 
Jidy Twenty- seventh. 



Launched our canoes a few minutes after sunrise. 
Killed two small mallard ducks and one mud-turtle 
with our paddles, which, with the usual addition of 
the never-failing blueberries, gave us an indifiPerent 
breakfast at ten o'clock. All hands very weak again 
from want of sufficient food. 

Reached Cass Lake at three o'clock in the afternoon. 
Here we found a wigwam on the shore of the lake 
occupied by an Indian woman and her children. A 
careful exploration brought to light a few dried fish, 
which we at once purchased with money and tobacco, 
the latter article being especially appreciated. 

Dame Fortune seemed to be with us once more, and 
hastening back to our canoes we paddled directly across 
the lake, disembarking at a point near its outlet. 
Tents were pitched and preparations for supper begun, 
for we now had something to eat, and were in no 
humor to defer the eating. Desirous of adding some- 
thing of a nourishing character to our small stock of 
dried fish, Chenowagesic and the Lagards were in- 
structed to forage in the vicinity of our encampment. 
They soon returned, reporting the discovery of a de- 
serted wigwam and a large garden of growing corn 



BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISR. 9^ 

and potatoes. This garden, well filled with half- 
grown potatoes, was to my starving companions an ob- 
ject of sincere admiration, especially when we were 
told by our guides that in the Indian country the 
hungry are always at liberty to help themselves. 
Under the circumstances, this practice of our red 
brothers was well calculated to inspire us with the 
most exalted ideas of aboriginal generosity, and the 
alacrity with which we helped ourselves to those 
juvenile potatoes fully attested our appreciation. 

After supper all went down to the lake and had a 
full bath, then returned to our tents thankful for the 
favors of the day, and loud in our praises of Indians 
who plant corn and potatoes. 

Cass Lake is a fine body of transparent water, 
about eighteen miles in length, with several large bays 
and islands, which give it an irregular shape. The 
largest island, called Grande He by the French, is the 
Gitchiminis of the Indians. This island has a very 
fertile soil, and has always been a favorite garden 
spot with the Chippewas for raising maize or Indian 
corn. Cass Lake was the terminus of the respective 
explorations of Lieutenant Zebulon Pike, in 1806, and 
Governor Lewis Cass, of Michigan, in 1820. The 
points at which they approached it were not, however, 
the same. Pike visited it in a dog-train on the snow 
during the month of January, across the land from 
the trading post of the Northwest Company at Leech 
Lake. Cass landed in July, after tracing its channel 
from Sandy Lake to the entrance of Turtle River, the 
line of communication to Turtle Lake, which was for 
many years the reputed source of the Mississippi. 
The northern shore of Cass Lake lies in latitude 



iOO DOWJV THE GREAT RIVER. 

47° 25' 23'^ The Mississippi at the point where it 
flows from the lake is one hundred and seventy-five 
feet wide. 

0tDmtl) JDa^. 

Cabin of Missionary, 

Lake Winnibegoshish, Minnesota 

July Twenty-eighth. 

All were up and doing at daylight. The Lagards 
hurried off to the potato field, while George and Che- 
nowagesic made a rousing fire in which to roast the 
potatoes. None but those accustomed to frontier life 
can appreciate the luxury of potatoes baked in ashes; 
and our supper and breakfast at Cass Lake are among 
the things long to be remembered in connection with 
our experience on the Upper Mississippi. 

Having some tobacco, with which we had provided 
ourselves at Saint Paul fur dealing with the Indians, 
we placed a small quantity in a conspicuous place in the 
wigwam, concluding that when the strolling Chippewa 
occupants should return they would find acceptable 
payment for the potatoes confiscated by their white 
brothers. 

As soon as breakfast was over, tents were struck, 
blankets rolled, and by six o'clock we were again in the 
canoes pulling vigorously for Lake Winnibegoshish, 
our next destination. The river looked very beau- 
tiful that morning, rippling over its gravelly bed and 
flecked with the cool shadows of bluffs and trees, its 
surface varied now and then by small rapids, shooting 
down which the water lashed itself against the 
boulders. Farther along the rapids ceased and the 
river flowed between waving meadows of wild rioe. 



BEMIDJl TO WINNIBEG0SHI8H. 101 

We met several Indians in canoes at nine o^clock. 
Halted and parleyed with them for dried fish, but 
failed to accomplish anything, as they had barely 
enough for their own use. Tempted them with to- 
bacco, but they would not part with their fish. Later 
in the forenoon we disembarked and ascended th© 
bank of the river, where we found a squaw and her 
children at work drying berri-es. Having some dried 
venison at her wigwam near by, she generously di- 
vided with us, receiving money in payment. Hurried 
back to our canoes and continued the descent of the 
river, eating venison and berries as we urged our 
little fleet toward Winnibegoshish. 

A heavy swell followed by a rising and falling of 
the canoes betokened our near approach to a large 
body of water, and at eleven o'clock we shot out upon 
the bosom of Lake Winnibegoshish, the largest and 
grandest of all the great lakes of the Great River. 

Our arrival at Winnibegoshish was at a time when 
a strong south wind blew its waters into white-capped 
waves, and it was at the imminent risk of swamping 
that the canoes were forced along the western shore 
and into the little bay upon which the Indian village 
stands. I shall not soon forget the peculiar sensa- 
tions experienced when I realized that I was in a frai\ 
canoe in a heavy sea two or three miles from land. I 
would have given a good deal at this time if I could 
have suddenly placed my feet upon a firm foundation, 

Although my proposition to cross the lake was 
stoutly opposed by the guides there seemed to be no 
alternative, as we were again without food and felt 
sure that something of an eatable character could be 
s«cured at the Chippewa village on the opposite side 



102 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

of the lake. For nearly two hours we pulled right 
lustily for our destination, sometimes riding upon the 
topmost waves, and again struggling in the trough of 
the sea. I felt several times that to get out of such a 
fix I w^ould willingly fast six months. I would have 
given every dollar I had in the world to have been 
safely landed anywhere on the face of the earth. 
Finding that my pilot coveted such a hat as his cap- 
tain wore, I promised to keep him well supplied with 
hats for some years to come if he landed me safely in 
the village towards which we were paddling.' Our 
canoes soon became detached by ponderous waves 
which tossed us about quite at their pleasure, and no 
opportunity was found to discuss the situation; but I 
sincerely wished that all birch canoes had been con^ 
signed to perdition before we saw Winnibegoshish. 
We struck the beach at three o'clock in the afternoon, 
heartily glad that we stood once more on ten^a jirma. 

On disembarking we were very cordially received 
by a large number of Chippewas, headed by Kitchi- 
nodin, an Indian missionary, who welcomed us to 
their village, the missionary extending to me the 
courtesy of a bed in his cabin, and suggesting a fa- 
vorable place for pitching the tents of my companions. 
These were the first civilities shown us in the descent 
of the Mississippi, and the three days that we were 
wind-bound at this Chippewa village afforded me an 
excellent opportunity for studying Indian character 
and habits. 

When told that we had been many days without 
regular food, Kitchinodin promptly supplied us with 
such meats and vegetables as he could procure, and in- 
sisted that I should feel at home in his cabin. 



BEMIDJl TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 103 

Having been duly installed as the guest of Kitchi- 
nodiii, I looked forward with considerable interest to 
our dinner, which I soon discovered was in course of 
preparation. Everything being ready, Kitchinodin 
turned to me and said in the best English he could 
command, and with some hesitation : Ne-che, din-ner- 
is-read-y. Then taking me by the hand he led me 
into his cabin and placed me at the side of a plain 
wooden table opposite his wife. He seated himself at 
the end of the table, and in serving the few simple 
dishes which constituted our repast \yas assisted by an 
intelligent-looking Indian girl who carried a juvenile 
Kitchinodin in one arm and waited upon the table 
with the other. Dinner consisted of dried fish, 
potatoes, green corn, and red raspberries, which ara 
found in abundance wherever there is a clearing in the 
neighborhood of this lake. Before proceeding with 
dinner my reverend host indicated, by raising his right 
hand and bowing his head, that he desired to ask a 
blessing. This was invoked in the Ojibway dialect, 
and with all the fervor of a true Christian. 

Having embraced Christianity, this son of the 
forest manifested that respect for the practices of 
civilization which almost invariably follow conver- 
sion. He said to me through the interpreter that he 
desired to imitate and live as far as possible in accord- 
ance with the suggestions and teachings of his white 
brothers. He asked my advice in many things, and 
hoped my sojourn at Winnibegoshish would be much 
longer than I had contemplated. Dinner being over, 
Kitchinodin invited me to walk with him through the 
village, after which we sat down in the shade of his 
cabin and looked out upon the lake. 



1 04 J^O WN THE GEE A T Rl VER, 

Lake Winnibegoshish, the largest lake of the Missis- 
sippi, is about twenty miles in its greatest length 
from north to south, and fifteen or sixteen broad from 
east to west. Its northern shore lies in latitude 47° 
28' 32". This imposing lake was first seen by white 
men in 1806, when Hon. Lewis Cass, of Michigan, and 
Lieutenant Pike, United States Army, reached it 
during their tour of exploration on the Upper Missis- 
sippi. It was subsequently visited by Schoolcraft in 
1832, when on his way to Lake Itasca. The waters of 
Winnibegoshish have a slightly turbid aspect after the 
prevalence of storms, which appears to reveal its 
shallowness with a probably white-clay bottom. The 
Chippewa name of Winnibegoshish is indeed said to be 
derived from this circumstance. 



CHAPTER IX. 



HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 




Home of Kitchinodin, 

Lake Winnibegoshish, Minnesota, 
July 29, 1881. 

T was my intention on our arrival at 
Lake Winnibegoshish to continue the 
1^ descent of the river on the following 
^ morning, but, finding ourselves wind- 
bound at the appointed time for re-embark- 
I decided to improve the day by fur- 
ther informing myself concerning the peculiai' 
habits and religious notions of the Chippewas. 
Conversations with Kitchinodin convinced me that he 
was far above the ordinary Indian in point of natural 
intelligence and acquired knowledge of the practices 
and traditions of his race. He is a regularly ordained 
missionary of the Episcopal Church, having been dul}^ 
appointed by Bishop Whipple, of Minnesota. Per- 
fectly familiar with the current beliefs and supersti- 
tions of the Chippewas, he told me through my inter- 
preter of many of the obstacles with which he has to 
contend in making converts to Christianity. 

Their notions of religion appear to be of the most 
simple character ; they believe in the existence of an 

(105) 



106 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

only God, whom they term Ka-sha-ma-n&-to, or Great 
Spirit ; Kasha signifying great, and Maneto an irresisti- 
ble Almighty Being. The epithet Kasha is never 
applied to any other word but as connected with the 
Supreme Being. It would be highly indecorous to 
apply it to a house, a horse, or any other visible object. 
Yet it is in a few instances applied to a good man, 
in order to give more force to the expression by 
connecting his good qualities with those which they 
ascribe to the Great Spirit. They recognize also 
an evil spirit, whom they call Mat-cha-ma-ne-to. 
This unfavorable epithet is not restricted in its applica- 
tion, but is extended to all unpleasant or disagreeable 
objects. They consider themselves indebted to the 
Good Spirit for the warm winds from the south, while 
the evil one sends the cold winds and storms of the 
north. The Kashamaneto dwells in the land of the 
mid-day sun, while the Matchamaneto resides in the 
cold regions of the north where the sun never shines. 

Their worship appears to be addressed principally 
to the Evil Spirit, whom they think it expedient to 
propitiate ; the good one needing no prayers, for his 
essential goodness will always induce him to assist and 
protect man without being reminded of it by his pe- 
titions ; neither do they believe that their prayers to 
the Evil Spirit can in any manner displease the good. 
In certain cases, however, as when afflicted with 
disease, or when impelled to it in a dream, they will 
offer a sacrifice of living animals to the Kashamaneto. 
This is usually done at the suggestion of one of their 
chiefs or leaders, who calls all the warriors together, 
explains his views, and appoints one of them to go in 
search of a buck ; to another he commits the killing 



DOG DANCE OF THE SIOUX. 



3^ 



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CHIPPEWA SCALP DANCE. 






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The notes marked thus, «?. are performed with a tremulous voice 
sounded : " Hish-yi-yi," &c. 



SABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS.IQ^ 

of a raccoon ; to a third he allots some other animal 
to be killed ; and when they have been successful in 
their respective hunts, they meet and fasten the first 
buck which they kill upon a high pole, and leave it in 
this situation so that it may serve as a sacrifice to the 
Great Spirit. Upon the remainder of the chase they 
feast. After having boiled the game they partake of 
it in the name of the Great Spirit. The object of 
these sacrifices is to insure luck in their pursuits, 
whether of hunting or fighting. 

The only period when they have regular sacrifices is 
during the winter and spring of the year, at which 
time many of the warriors give feasts; each selects 
the time that suits him best, and invites such guests as 
he thinks proper. Having assembled them all, he 
rises, takes a sort of tambourine, formed by fastening 
a piece of skin or parchment upon a frame, which he 
beats while he addresses himself to the divinity, ac- 
companying his invocation with many violent ges- 
tures. When he has concluded, he resumes his seat, 
and hands the tambourine over to another, who pro- 
ceeds in the same manner. They have regular songs 
which they sing together on such occasions. 

Among the Chippewas, polygamy is not only al- 
lowed but even encouraged. A man frequently has 
two or three wives, sometimes four or five, according 
to his skill and success as a hunter. An Indian who 
has many wives is respected as being a better or more 
favored hunter than he who has but one wife; it 
therefore follows that the number of wives he keeps 
is equal to that which he can maintain. 

They are very attentive to the proper education of 
their children, in order to impart to them tlAose 



110 UOWJ^ THE GREAT RIVER. 

qualities of both mind and body which aliall enable 
them to endure privation and fatigue, and to obtain 
influence in the councils of the nation, or during their 
military operations. Kitchinodin said that, when 
very young, his father began to instruct him in the 
traditions, laws and ceremonies of his tribe, in order 
that he might one day benefit his country with his 
counsel. 

The education of boys usually commences at the 
age of ten or twelve years ; they accustom them 
early to the endurance of cold by making them bathe 
every morning in winter. They likewise encourage 
them to abstinence from food in order that ihey may 
acquire the more readily those attributes which it is 
desirable for an Indian to possess. 

Parents use no compulsory means to reduce their 
children to obedience; still, they generally succeed in 
obtaining a powerful influence over them by acting upon 
their fears; they tell them that if they do not do as 
they are required they will incur the displeasure of 
the Great Spirit, who will deprive them of all luck as 
hunters and as warriors. This, together with the 
constant and never-ceasing importance which the 
children observe that their parents attribute to luck 
in all their pursuits, is found to have the desired effect 
upon the minds of all those who are fired with the 
ambition of becoming distinguished at some future 
day by their skill and success. 

Their fasts are marked by the ceremony of smear- 
ing their faces and hands with charcoal. To effect 
this, they take a piece of wood of the length of the 
finger and suspend it to their necks; they char one 
end of it, and rub themselves with the coal every 



HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS.ll\ 

morning, keeping it on until after sunset. No person 
whose face is blackened presumes to eat or drink dur- 
ing the period of fasting ; whatever may be the crav- 
ings of his appetite he must restrain them until 
evening, when he may wash off his black paint and 
indulge moderately in the use of food. The next 
morning he repeats the ceremony of blackening his 
face, and continues it from day to day until the whole 
of his piece of wood is consumed. 

After this term they either suspend or continue 
their fasting^ according to the particular requirements 
of the case. Kitchinodin said that in no instance 
within his recollection had Indians been known to 
break their fasts ; so powerful indeed is their super- 
stitious dread of that "ill luck" which would attach 
to a transgression of their rules, that even children 
have been, in vain, tempted to take food when at the 
houses of teachers and beyond the control of their 
parents. Neither does it appear that they indulge 
after sunset in any unreasonable gratification of their 
appetite : in this respect therefore they prove them- 
selves more consistent than the Mahometans, who are 
said, while their Ramadan or Lent lasts, to make up 
by the debaucheries of the evening for the restrictions 
imposed upon them during the day by the precepts 
of their Prophet. 

The same apprehensions which will prevent an In- 
dian, whether man cr boy, from tasting food while 
covered with his coating of charcoal, will not allow 
him to shorten the term of his penance by consuming 
the piece of wood too hastily. If he does not use it 
sparingly, he is certain that ihe charm or virtue with 
which he invests it will be dispelled. In addition to 



112 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

fasting, the Indian attempts to impress upon his off- 
spring a permanent and unshaken belief in the exist- 
ence of a Great Spirit, ruler of the universe, whose 
attributes are kindness to men and a desire of reliev- 
ing them from all their afflictions. The necessity of 
doing all that may be grateful to him is often recurred 
to in those exhortations by which every Indian parent 
instructs his sons both morning and evening. 

It does not appear that the same care is extended to 
the religious principles of females ; they are not allowed 
to take part in the public sacrifices, and as they have no 
concern in the noble occupations of war or the chase, it 
matters but little whether or not they are agreeable in 
the sight of the Great Spirit. The only inducement 
which they have to pray is that they may continue to 
hold a place in the affections of their husbands. 

The Chippewas are of the opinion that they have 
always existed in the neighborhood of the head waters 
of the Mississippi. They are also of the belief that 
the first man and woman were made by the Great 
Spirit. Their traditions at first mentioned but one 
original couple, the parents of the red people, from 
whom they believe themselves to have descended. 
But when they became acquainted with the different 
races of men, they supposed a couple of white and 
another of black had likewise been created by the 
Supreme Being, and that these had given rise to the 
white and black people whom they had since seen. 
Soon after the white men came among them they were 
told that far away towards the setting sun there was a 
race of people whose features and complexion resembled 
theirs. This had led them to much reflection and discus- 
sion. They had often inquired of other nations whence 



HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. II3 

they came, but found strong reasons for adhering to 
their old tradition, that the land on which they now 
resided was that upon which the Great Spirit had 
first placed them. 

Indians generally admit the existence of a future 
life, of which, however, they entertain very confused 
ideas, believing for the most part that the spirits of 
those who have lived a good life will go to a country 
where they can pursue without fatigue their favorite 
occupation of hunting, where animals will be plentiful 
and fat. Not so with the spirits of the bad ; theirs 
will be a country barren and nearly destitute of game, 
where the chase will become a painful and unprofitable 
occupation. 

It is impossible on seeing this strange people at 
present not to feel that the time for obtaining correct 
information from them has long since passed away ; 
they have imbibed from the missionaries so many 
notions which certainly did not belong to them origin- 
ally, and the crafty policy of their chiefs to counteract 
the effect of their intercourse with white men has 
raised so many idle and false traditions, that it is 
difficult to distinguish the genuine from the false 
doctrines attributed to these nations in their original 
state. Of the many interesting customs which, accord- 
ing to their traditions, formerly prevailed among 
them, the degeneration of none is more to be regretted 
than that which accompanied the marriage ceremony. 
This has now nearly disappeared from the face of the 
country. Their intermarriages with other nations 
have become so frequent, and the demoralizing ten- 
dency of their intercourse with the traders has been so 
great, that it has led them to neglect practices which 
were recommended to them by a venerable antiquity. 



114 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Referring to the form of courtship among the 
Chippewas, Kitchinodin said that formerly when a 
young man had conceived an attachment for a 
female, or wished to make her his wife, he gave the 
first intimation of his design by throwing a deer into 
the lodge of the girl's parents. This he would 
repeat for several days, after which the father usually 
asked him what object he had in doing so, and 
whether it was to obtain his daughter. The young 
man having replied in the affirmative, the relatives of 
the girl would, if they approved of the connection, 
prepare a dress for the youth, which they would take 
to his wigwam, and there the damsel's father would 
invest him with it. He would then take him home 
with him, and introduce him to the bride ; there the 
lover remained ten or twelve days, until his friends 
had prepared the presents they intended for his wife's 
family. It was usual for the young couple to dwell 
with the bride's parents for the term of a year, during 
which time the husband was virtually a servant in the 
family, giving his father-in-law all the produce of his 
hunt. At the expiration of this term he was at 
liberty to remove his wife to his own wigwam and 
treat her as he liked. 

The power of the husband over his wife was un- 
limited ; he might even put her to death if he chose, 
and she lost all claim to the sympathy and protec- 
tion of her own relatives. They never would resent 
any treatment which she had been made to endure. 
There was no fixed time for marrying. Girls were 
sometimes betrothed at a very early age, long before 
maturity. The presents which it was customary to 
make were always of the most valuable kind, and con- 



HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 115 

bisted of horses, venison, guns and many other things 
that were likely to be of service to the contracting 
parties. 

It was the custom when an Indian married one of 
several sisters to consider him as wedded to all ; and it 
became incumbent upon him to take the others as 
concubines. The marrying of a brother's widow was 
not approved, and was always looked upon as a very 
improper connection. The intercourse of persons 
related by blood was likewise disapproved and discour- 
aged. 

The circumstances which attend funerals are also 
worthy of notice. They have, it is true, but few 
ceremonies at the time of the removal of .the corpse; 
but the manner in which this duty is performed de- 
serves mention. The greatest pains are taken that all 
should be transacted in the most decorous manner. 
The spot selected is always as dry as can be found in 
the vicinity of their villages. The body of the de- 
ceased is clothed in his best garments, and, if the rela- 
tives can afford it, new clothes are obtained for this pur- 
pose. His moccasins, rifle, knife, money, silver orna- 
ments, in fact the whole of his possessions, are placed 
near him : the corpse is laid with its face turned to- 
wards the east. A small quantity of food is placed 
near the head. The funeral is generally attended by 
all the relatives, who express their grief by weeping. 
An Indian is buried in an erect, seated, or inclined 
posture, according to the wishes and directions which 
he may have given previous to death ; for these are 
always most implicitly obeyed. The graves in which 
Indians are buried are generally from four to five feet 
in depth. If the deceased had^ previous to death, 



116 DO WN THE GEE A T Ri VER. 

signified a desire to be deposited in a tree, his wish is 
attended to ; otherwise the body is always interred. 
When the corpse is to be placed in a tree, it is first 
sewed up in a blanket, and this is suspended to the 
branches. The friends of the deceased visit it fre- 
quently until they observe that the body is decaying ; 
they then shake hands with it and bid it a last fare- 
well. But even after this they return yearly to visit 
the spot where it is deposited, and uniformly leave 
some food near it. 

At the time of a funeral they often light a fire near 
the h^ad of the grave, and upon this they prepare 
their feast, throwing a part of the food on the grave 
for the use of their friend. If they have whiskey 
they likewise scatter some on the ground, but of this 
they are sparing, doubtless from the belief that the 
living require it much more than the dead. An in- 
vocation is then made to the deceased, who is en- 
treated to speed his course direct to the Great Prairie 
without casting his eyes back, for they hold that, if on 
his way to the land of spirits he were to look behind 
him, it would bring ill luck upon some one of his re- 
latives, to whom it would be a signal that his com- 
pany was required by his departed friend. It is 
customary to mark the grave with a post, on which 
are inscribed in hieroglyphics the deeds of the de- 
ceased, whether of hunting or fighting. 

The Chippewas are particular in their demonstra- 
tions of grief for departed friends. These consist in 
darkening their faces with charcoal, fasting, abstain- 
ing from the use of vermilion and other ornaments in 
dress. They also make incisions in their arms, legs 
and other parts of the body, from a belief that their 



SABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPFEWAS. I17 

grief is internal, and that the only way of clis^)elling 
it is to give it a vent through which to escape. Their 
outward signs of grief are not merely of a temporary 
character ; they are more lasting than among those 
who consider themselves higher in the scale of refine- 
ment than the red man. Chenowagesic observed that 
he had abstained from the use of vermilion for the 
past fifteen years on account of the loss of a valued 
friend, and he meant to persist in this practice ten 
years longer. The deceased was not a relative, merely 
a friend. Public opinion requires of them some 
mourning for departed relations ; but the Indian 
graduates his expressions of grief according to the 
value in which he held the deceased, rather than with 
reference to the mere relationship in which nature or 
accident placed him in life. 

Much to my regret the conversation with Kitchi- 
nodin was suddenly brought to a close by the de- 
parture of Chenowagesic for his home at Leech Lake. 
This interview with the missionary was full of in- 
terest, and gave me a clearer insight into Indian 
character than I had as yet been able to gather from 
other sources. 

The red man appears to me to poss'^^i^s some ideas 
of virtue and morality, which are fully as commend- 
able as those that are supposed by ra-'xny philosophers 
to be characteristic of civilization '<nly. True, they 
are perhaps but too frequently checked in their 
growth by the uncontrolled sway ^rhich his evil pro- 
pensities exercise over him ; propensities which doubt- 
less have been increased by ap indiscriminate inter- 
Gourse with the most worthless ')f white men, who, to 
serve their own selfish ends, have not been ashamed to 



113 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

stimulate the Indian to deeds which his own gooQ 
fiense would have prevented him from perpetrating. 

Parting with Chenowagesio, 

The valuable service rendered by my faithful guide, 
Chenowagesic, made his retirement at Lake Winnibe- 
goshish one of the notable events of our voyage. The 
ceremonies attending his leave-taking were made im- 
pressive by reason of the important part he had 
borne in leading us to the Source of the Mississippi. 
Our parting took place in front of a cluster of wig- 
wams near the shore of the lake. George, Paine, the 
Lagards, Kitchinodin and many Indians from the 
village were present. 

As soon as all were assembled I arose, and, address- 
ing Chenowagesic, recounted the leading incidents of 
our journey to Lake Itasca and beyond. Spoke of 
our discovery and the privations we had endured in 
the descent of the river. Thanked him for the im- 
portant duty he had performed, and expressed the 
hope that, after a visit to his family, he would be able 
to rejoin us at Aitkin and complete the voyage with 
us to the Gulf. 

When I had concluded my remarks I paid Cheno- 
wagesic and Sebatise Lagard, who was to return to 
Leech Lake with him, for the time they had served. 
Gave each a photograph of myself, and divided 
equally between them all the tobacco we had in re- 
serve. This done, Chenowagesic straightened himself 
up to his full height and began speaking. In a man- 
ner characteristic of the Indian he prefaced his speech 
by referring to the circumstances under which we had 
met at Lee^jh Lake. Related his impressions on first 



HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 121 

seeing me. Referred to his promise to guide me to the 
TRUE SOURCE of the Great River ; spoke with pride 
of his having accomplished all that he had under- 
taken, and closed by trusting that it might be his good 
fortune to rejoin us at Aitkin, as I desired ; but 
should he not be able to do so, he would anticipate 
meeting me and my companions in the Happy Hunt- 
ing Ground. A general hand-shaking followed, after 
which Chenowagesic and Sebatise got into their canoe 
and started for Leech Lake. 



^'^3?^^:;) 



CHAPTER X. 

LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAKD RAPIDS, 

Jfintl) JDa^. 

Camp Chenowagesic, 

Lake Winnibegoshish, Minnesota, 

July 30, 1881. 

OTWITHSTANDING the still turbu- 
lent condition of the lake and threaten- 
l[Vit^^l[;^ i"g southeasterly winds, we re-embarked 
^J^qH at sunrise and continued our course with 
much difficulty for several hours along its 
western shore. The increasing strength of 
the wind, however, and consequent heavy sea 
forced us to run ashore at ten o'clock, at a point 
known among the fur traders as Old School Station. 
Here we were compelled to spend the day listening 
to the roar and swash of the waves as they lashed the 
beach in their fury. 

It was voted that we would not venture upon the 
lake again until the ^' white caps " had entirely disap- 
peared, and so we set to work to make ourselves as 
comfortable as possible. Tents "were pitched, blankets 
spread, and preparations for dinner begun, for we 
were now in possession of a small quantity of meat 
and potatoes secured from the Indians through the 
kindness of Kitchinodin, 




LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 123 

All day we waited and watched anxiously for a 
calm, but it did not come, and finally despairing of an 
opportunity to launch our canoes before morning, we 
retired to our tents. About midnight our slumbers 
were disturbed by the sound of paddles and voices 
in the little cove on the shores of which we were en- 
camped ; then the slight grating of a canoe on the 
beach; and presently two villainous-looking Indians 
appeared armed with Winchester rifles, one of whom 
I learned from my interpreter was a double murderer. 

They seemed to feel quite at home; blew the 
embers of our fire into a blaze and curled up in their 
blankets beside it. We let them alone, and though 
they made no further demonstration, we hardly slept 
as soundly afterwarjis. 



Camp Lagard, 

Ten Miles below Winnibegoshish, 
July Thirty-first. 

On coming from our tents a little before sunrise we 
found Winnibegoshish as angry and boisterous as ever. 
A heavy sea, the presence of white caps, and the roar 
of waves as they broke upon the beach, were not well 
calculated to hasten the launch of our canoes. 

Breakfast was soon ready and over. A hurried 
consultation led me to decide that, let the consequences 
be what they might, we could not wait longer, but 
must cross the lake at once and enter the river. Our 
effort was a success, but was attended with consider- 
able risk, the wind being so strong ahead as to greatly 



124 BOWJV THE GREAT RIVER. 

retard the advance of the canoes, which were some- 
times nearly filled with water. 

After five hours of vigorous paddling against wind 
and wave we reached the outlet and continued the de- 
scent of the river, gliding along delightfully, aided by 
a brisk current, until we came to another lake known 
as Little Winnibegoshish. Here we again encountered 
high winds and rough water, but by hugging the 
eastern shore around to the outlet we avoided some of 
the unpleasant experiences of the morning. 

Little Winnibegoshish is only about three-fourths 
of a mile below ite namesake. It is a beautiful sheet 
of water of very respectable dimensions, and but for 
its nearness to the larger lake would attract much 
more attention than it has hitherto received. 

The Lakes Winnibegoshish occupy a position on 
the American Continent, and particularly in relation 
to the Upper Mississippi, which makes it desirable to 
acquire more accurate details and observations than it 
fell to our lot to be enabled to make. But in the ab- 
sence of such data, such facts as our means permitted 
may be substituted. We were impressed with their 
extent, and the picturesque and diversified appearance 
of their woodland shores. Their geological features 
are similar to those of Bemidji and Cass lakes, being 
a basin of diluvial formation, occupying a position on 
the great marine sand district of Northern Minnesota. 
This district abounds in pure springs, and is so im- 
pervious in its lower strata that it has probably re- 
tained to the present day more water in the character 
of lakes, large and small, than any other part of the 
world. 

There is a portage from Winnibegoshish for light 



LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 125 

packages of goods across the summit level of the Mis- 
sissippi Valley into Red Lake, and the fertile valley 
of Red River. The latter embraces the settlements 
planned by the Earl of Selkirk, the inhabitants of 
which maintained their existence for several years 
against the strenuous opposition of the Northwest 
Company. 

€let)entl) SDag. 

Camp Kitchinodin, 

White Oak Point, Minn«»ota. 

August First. 

Paine sounded reveille at ten minutes after four 
o'clock in the morning. All turned out promptly and 
began preparations for getting on the river. Progress 
in our canoes very slow. We followed the windings 
of the river ten miles, to advance two towards our 
objective. Had dried fish and potatoes for dinner. 
Met a party of Indian hay-makers after dinner, of 
whom we purchased a small quantity of dried meat. 
Passed the mouth of Leech Lake River on the right 
hand between three and four o'clock. This is a con- 
siderable stream, is the outlet of Leech Lake, and 
nearly doubles the volume of the Mississippi at its 
point of entrance. We reached White Oak Point be- 
tween six and seven o'clock in the evening, where we 
found a Chippewa village presided over by a chief 
with an unpronounceable name, which Lagard in- 
terpreted as Dull Knife. 

Not caring to avail myself of the courtesies extended 
by Dull Knife, we pitched our tents in an open field 
rather than occupy a filthy wigwam with ten or fifteen 



126 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Chippewas. These Indians appeared to regard our 
arras and equipments with considerable curiosity, and 
especially my self-acting revolver, a weapon with 
which they had had no experience. Wishing to keep 
them at a respectful distance from my tent, I found 
much pleasure in showing them how effective it could 
be made in skillful hands. The experinient proved 
successful, for they could not readily understand how 
pulling the trigger could cock and discharge the re- 
volver at the same instant. Naturally superstitious, 
they were inclined to believe that the evil one had 
taken possession of me and could not be persuaded to 
approach my quarters, although I found them quite 
sociable whenever I appeared among them in their 
village. 

Dull Knife was well advanced in years but had 
none of the infirmities of old age. The women were 
all very ugly and the children looked like little imps, 
in whose countenances and apparently deformed bodies 
we could scarcely discover the rudiments of men as 
tall and elegant as those who stood before us. Most 
of their youth had gone out on a hunting excursion. 
The men whom we saw were alaiost naked, having no 
other garment than the breech-cloth, but as we drew 
near them they gathered up their blankets. The 
women wore a short gown and a blanket ; the children 
ran about naked, with no other appendage than a belt 
about their loins. It is curious to observe that all 
Indians, whether old or young, wear a belt even when 
they have nothing to attach to it ; and the children, 
who seldom assume the breech-cloth before maturity, 
invariably have a belt tied around them as soon as 
they are able to walk. 



LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 127 

One of the wigwams which we visited was about 
fifteen feet in diameter and fully twelve feet high at 
its centre ; it was formed of bark secured to a frame 
made of poles and covered with the same material. Like 
the wigwams visited at Bemidji and Winnibegoshish 
it had the appearance of being very comfortable. The 
fire was made in the middle, the smoke passing out 
between the poles; tho sides of the interior were 
occupied with a frame three feet high and four or 
five feet wide, which was covered with blankets 
and skins, upon which the inmates sit and sleep. 
There is no partition or anything that can serve 
as a screen to separate one part of the family from 
the other. 

The disposition of these Indians was friendly. The 
object of the expedition was explained to them, to 
which they made no reply, but the chief directed his 
squaw to give us some maple sugar in return for the 
tobacco we had presented him. He expressed his regret 
at having no fresh meat to give us, but added that if 
his hunters returned that eveninar with meat he would 
send some to our camp. We were somewhat surprised 
by their familiar manner, which we at first mistook for 
intentional impudence. 

They all collected around us and carefully examined 
our equipments, with which they seemed highly 
pleased. One of them drew my brother's hunting 
knife from the sheath, and having looked at it for 
some time, returned it; he then took Paine's hat, 
which was a sombrero, and after having examined this 
also with care, tried it on his own head. All this, how- 
ever, seemed to proceed rather from childish curiosity 
than from any intention to give offence. After a time 
9 



128 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

they began to beg for money which soon compelled us 
to retire to our tents. 

todfti) SDag. 

Potter House, 

Grand Rapids, Minnesota, 

August Second. 

Had a light breakfast on dried fish and potatoes 
obtained from Indians. Launched our canoes at seven 
o'clock. While descending the river we met three 
canoes filled with Chippewas and their families. They 
were freighted with heavy rolls of birch bark, such 
as their canoes are made of; together with a small 
quantity of snake-root designed for the trading post at 
Grand Rapids. We halted at two o'clock for dinner, 
which consisted of dried meat, potatoes and blue- 
berries. The annoyance suffered from mosquitoes on 
this great plateau was almost past endurance. We 
re-embarked at a quarter past four and reached 
Pokegaaia Falls at five o'clock. At this point the 
first rock stratum and the first wooded island are seen. 
The river has an aggregate fall of twenty feet. 

Making a portage around the falls, we continued 
our course towards Grand Rapids two miles and a half 
down the stream, shooting the rapids just above and 
arriving at the little hamlet of the same name a few 
minutes before seven o'clock. This pioneer village 
consists of a hotel, two stores, a saloon and three or 
four private houses, all built of logs. The Potter 
House is the first hotel encountered in the descent of 
the river, and is intended chiefly for the accommodation 
of hunters and lumbermen, who gather here during the 



LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND UAPTDH. 1^,9 

fall and winter months. It was with quickened pace 
we answered the call of " supper " at this house, and 
with a keen appetite that we sat down to the first 
civilized table we had seen in seventeen days. The 
bill of fare, though not elaborate, was ample and con- 
sisted of beefsteak, potatoes, raspberries, tea and 
coffee. Very tittle ceremony was observed, and we 
" stood not upon the order of our goingV' 




Gf^AND FJAEIUS 



CHAPTER XL 



OBAND RAPIDS TO AITKIII. 

Sljirkmtl) JDag. 

Camp Portage, 

Twenty Miles Below Grand BapidSi 
August 3, 1881. 

'E were detained at Grand Kapids until 
after dinner, in consequence of a heavy 
thunder-storm, which set in early in the 
morning and continued throughout the 
forenoon. Before leaving this place we pro- 
vided ourselves with ten pounds of flour, the 
same quantity of bacon, one pound of coffee and 
three of sugar, rations considered necessary to 
carry us to Aitkin. George and Paine were compelled 
to exchange their birch canoe for a new one, as it had 
been rendered unseaworthy through the rough usage 
incident to our long voyage. 

Ke-em barked at one o'clock after shaking hands 
with every man in the place, a thing which we were 
not likely to attempt in towns farther down the 
stream. The storm had passed away, leaving a genial 
temperature and a placid surface, with the current 
somewhat accelerated by the storm of the forenoon. 
We dipped our paddles with increased energy and 

made good progress toward tlie close of the day. 
(130) 




GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN, 1^\ 

JTourtonth JDa^i. 

Camp Thitnder, 

Seventy-five Miles Below Grand Rapids, 

August Fourth. 

Put our canoes into the water a few minutes after 
six o'clock in the morning. We noted a decided 
change in the scenery. Higher banks and greater 
variety of trees, grasses and flowers. Halted for 
dinner near the mouth of Swan River. This is a 
considerable stream, originating in Swan Lake, near 
the source of the Saint Louis River, which empties 
into Lake Superior. 

The current of the Mississippi continued to in- 
crease in strength ; its velocity during the descent of 
this day was estimated by Paine at two and a half 
miles per hour. We passed a rapid a few miles below 
Trout River, where there is a computed descent of 
three feet in a hundred and fifty yards. 

We met the City of Aitkin, a small steamboat, 
late in the afternoon, on its way from Aitkin to Grand 
Rapids. This pioneer craft was commanded by Cap- 
tain Houghton of the former place, and deserves 
special mention as the first boat propelled by steam 
which we had thus far seen in the descent of the river. 
The clatter of a stern-wheel, much puffing and 
blowing, followed by the report of several shots fired 
by sportive passengers, betokened the approach of this 
wonder of the Upper Mississippi. The captain of 
the Aitkin and his gallant crew must have been 
well advised of our movements, for, as soon as they 
had reached a point opposite the one we had taken on 
the shore, they saluted us with several rounds of 



132 ^ ^ ^^ THE GREA T Rl VER. 

cheers, supplemented by a general discharge of fire- 
arms. Thiscomplimeiit was reciprocated on our part by 
three cheers and a Chippewa yell for Captain Houghton. 
We disembarked a few minutes after six o'clock 
and, hurriedly pitching our tents, took shelter from 
a heavy thunder-storm which set in just as we were 
pulling our canoes from the water. In spite of every 
precaution our tents were blown down and all hands 
thoroughly drenched by the rain which fell upon us 
in torrents. The tents were pitched again, and again 
dashed to the ground by the wind, which came whist- 
ling and roaring through the pines about us. 

iifteenti) SDap. 

Camp Mosquito, 

Twenty-eight Miles Above Aitkin^ 

August Fifth. 

The rain-storm which opened as we were pitching 
our tents at Camp Thunder continued throughout the 
night, and we found clothing, blankets and equipments 
thoroughly soaked in the morning. Breakfasted on 
bread, bacon and coffee. Got into our canoes at seven 
o'clock. Met a party of Indians in the forenoon 
coming up the river. Halted and talked with them 
a few minutes through Lagard, who had seen two of 
their number some years before. 

Stopped at a log-cabin in the afternoon and secured 
bread and vegetables of an Indian woman who was 
the wife of a white man. She spoke very indifferent 
English, but her children readily understood our 
wants, and when they had communicated them she 
seemed to find pleasure in supplying us with the best 
her humble cabin afforded. 



GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN. 138 

Camp Mosquito, like most of our encampments, 
was located on high ground, overlooking the Missis- 
eippi, and, being in a bend of the river, gave us a fine 
view of the surrounding country. It may here be 
observed that the course of the Mississippi, below the 
Falls of Pokegama, is still serpentine, but strikingly 
less so than above, and its bends are not so short and 
abrupt. Its general course, until it reaches the rock 
formation of Pokegama, is easterly ; thence to Sandy 
Lake inlet it flows in a south-easterly direction ; 
from this point to the inlet of Crow Wing it is de- 
flected to the southwest; thence, almost due south, to 
the mouth of the Watab River ; and thence again south- 
east to the Falls of Saint Anthony. A geographical 
line dropped from the inlet of Sandy Lake, where the 
channel is first deflected, to the south-west, to the mouth 
of the Minnesota River, forms a vast bow-shaped area 
of prairie and forest lands of high agricultural capa- 
bilities, whose products will reach eastern and southern 
markets through the railways and waterways now 
opened and opening for the convenience of the settler. 
These prairies and grove lands constitute the ancient 
area of the Isati, described by Hennepin, and are now 
known chiefly as having been the predatory border, 
or battle-ground, of the Sioux, Dakotas and Chippe- 
was. 

Douglass House, 

Aitkin, Minnesota^ 

August Sixth. 

Struck tents in the morning with high hopes — the 
prospect of reaching Aitkin in season for dinner. Since 
leaving Winnibegoshish " Aitkin " had been the first 



134 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

word in the morning and the last word at night. It 
meant something more than a return to civilization ; it 
meant, for the remainder of our voyage, less exposure, 
better accommodations and more congenial surround- 
ings than had fallen to our lot in the Chippewa country. 

We reached the mouth of Mud River at two o'clock. 
Listening to the advice of Lagard we attempted to 
paddle np to Aitken, but found the stream too shal- 
low and the current too strong to make it practicable, 
so I ordered my canoe, the Discovery^ ashore and 
walked up to the village. George and his new pilot, 
whom he had christened " Commodore,'^ continued for 
a time their endeavor to arrive at Aitken from the 
water front, but much to their chagrin capsized about 
three hundred yards below the town, in three feet of 
water. Beyond being thoroughly soaked, however, they 
were not injured, and George added another chapter 
to his already long list of mishaps. Just as his birch 
was rolling its occupants into the water he set us all 
roaring with laughter by singing out to his pilot: 
"Don't get wet. Commodore! Stick to the canoe! 
Nothing so refreshing as the bottom of Mud River ! " 

Distance traversed this day about thirty miles. La- 
gard left for Leech Lake soon after our arrival, with the 
intention of rejoining us at Brainerd and continuing 
with us in our voyage to the Gulf. 

Aitkin is the county-seat of Aitkin County, the 
most northern settlement of any importance on tho 
Mississippi, and the nearest to its source. The county 
of which it forms the capital has an area of nineteen 
hundred square miles, and contains a scattered popu- 
lation of only about four hundred, half of which 
number are found in the town of Aitken. The latter 



OEAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN-, 135 

is situated on Mud River, near its confluence with the 
Mississippi, and was founded by William Aitkin, an 
enterprising fur trader, about the year 1832. The 
inhabitants for the most part are actively engaged in 
the lumber trade. Situated on the line of the North- 
ern Pacific Railway and at the junction of two rivers, 
one of them the greatest waterway on the continent, 
Aitken has, in consequence, within the last few years, 
become a flourishing centre of the lumber interest, and 
will doubtless make rapid progress in population and 
the development of its industry. It is distant from 
Duluth in a westerly direction only eighty-eight miles 
and, connected with the last-named city by railway, 
commands transportation facilities on both Lake 
Superior and the Mississippi. 



CHAPTER XII. 

TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. 

Reorganization — Lecture Appointments — Modem 

Canoes. 

,j|i^Vjg|^^N order to perfect plans for a continuation 
of the descent of the Mississippi, reor- 
^?5f ganize our little party, inspect the new 
canoes which were awaiting us, prepare 
the lecture which I proposed to deliver at 
certain points, and send forward an advance 
agent, I concluded to remain a few days at 
Aitkin. Ten days were thus consumed and 
profitably employed. 

Mine host of the hotel, Carlos Douglass, I found 
genial, hospitable and communicative; and to him wtJ 
were indebted for comforts of which we had been for 
some time necessarily deprived. He also directed 
our rambles on the outskirts of the town and added 
much to the enjoyment of our stay here. The soil of 
the surrounding country is rich, and produces boun- 
teously, the surface being interspersed with numerous 
small lakes of clear, fresh water abounding in fish, and 
their shores covered with a fine growth of pine, spruce 
and tamarack. 

At Aitkin we dispensed with two of our birch-bark 
canoes, retaining only one for myself for my journey 



TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. 137 

down to Saint Paul. Two modern canoes had been pre- 
viously purchased at Saint Paul and forwarded to Ait- 
kin to meet us on our arrival. One of these, a Rushton 
canoe, was built by a native of Saint Lawrence County, 
New York, in the neighborhood of my old home. 
While on my way up the river I had met Mr. A. H. 
Seigfried at Saint Paul. This gentleman is an attache 
of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press^ and a veteran canoeists 
he very courteously offered to place at my disposal 
his canoe, as being well adapted, in his judgment, for 
navigating the Mississippi. This snug craft was 
Rushton's " No. 93,'' and was designed to carry two 
persons. It had full bearings, a seven-feet cockpit, 
and consequently was sufficiently roomy. It was fitted 
with back-board, cushion and the necessary double- 
blade paddles. The keel and stern were of oak, the 
ribs of red elm, and the sides of white cedar. Her 
length was sixteen feet, width at the bottom of the top 
streak thirty inches, and on the top twenty -eight 
inches. The depth of gunwale was nine and one- 
half inches ; between deck and floor, twelve inches, and 
at the ends, seventeen inches. Her weight, without 
fittings, was eighty pounds ; and though her capacity 
was set down at two persons, we afterwards found it 
was not impossible to carry three. She was one of 
the several patterns of Rushton's "American Travel- 
ing Canoe,'' and could be fitted with a leg-of-mutton 
sail and used as a sailing boat. However, hoisting 
sail on so light a craft on the Mississippi involved a 
risk, which, in our inexperience, we did not care to run ; 
so stuck to our paddles throughout the entire voyage. 
On reaching Aitkin on our way down the river I 
found the following letter, among others, awaiting me i 



J 38 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

"Pioneer PiiEss," 
Saint Paul, Minnesota^ 
July 28, 188J.. 
Captain "Willard Glazier, 

Aitkin, Minnesota: 
My Dear Sir : I am advised by Mr. Warren Potter, of Aitkin, 
that the boats have both arrived there, and are in his charge. I 
hand you herewith Mr. Hinckley's receipt, and bill-of-lading of my 
boat. Expecting to be absent from the second to the thirteenth of 
August, inclusive, I may not be here to receive the news of your 
arrival at Aitkin, but hope you may not reach Saint Paul ahead of me. 
I want to have a little pull down the Wisconsin, and shall hope to 
meet you here in due time. Yours very truly, 

A. H. Seigfried. 

During my halt at Saint Paul on my way north, Mr. 
Seigfried had made me acquainted with H. L. Hinck- 
ley, a gentleman largely interested in canoes and their 
patrons, and having under his control quite a fleet of 
all sizes and builds on White-Bear Lake, a beautiful 
sheet of water near Saint Paul. From this gentleman I 
obtained much information of a practical character, 
Mr. Hinckley showed me several of his canoes, and 
offered valuable suggestions as to the selection of a 
second boat for the accommodation of our small party. 
I concluded to take a ^' Racine Saint Paul,^^ built on 
the Rob Roy pattern. As all canoeists are aware, the 
" Rob Roy " was the canoe originally adopted by Mr. 
Macgregor, and in build is a cross between the 
" birch-bark '^ of the Indians and the '^ kyak " of the 
Esquimaux. It is long and pointed, each end contain- 
ing a water-tight compartment. In my judgment the 
"Rob Roy'^ pattern is the best boat for cruising on 
lakes and rivers, its build combining strength with 
lightness. Mr. Macgregor circumnavigated the Baltic 
Sea in his fourteen -feet " Rob Roy," coasted the bays 



TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. 1 39 

and inlets of Sweden and Norway, and threaded the 
Danube, the Nile, and the Jordan. The "Racine 
Saint Paul," being an improved " Rob Roy," was a 
better-sailing craft and possessed equally good pad- 
dling qualities. The length of her deck was fourteen 
feet ; greatest beam, twenty -six inches ; depth from top 
of gunwale, twenty-one inches, with a cockpit eighteen 
by forty-two inches. She was propelled by a double- 
bladed paddle, and was capable of supporting the 
weight of a man if the middle was full of water. She 
was, therefore, to all intents and purposes, a life-boat, 
which it was impossible to swamp. Like the Rushton 
canoe, the " Saint Paul " could be fitted with a sail, but 
we preferred to make our enterprise a veritable canoe 
foyage, and so dispensed with a sail in her case also. 

The subjoined letter, referring to the boat purchased 
of Mr. Hinckley, also reached me here: 

White-Bear Lake, 

Near Saint Paul, Minneaotaj 

August 9, 1881. 
Captain Willard Glazier, 

Aitkin, Minnesota: 

Dear Sir : I have read in the papers of your arrival at the 
source of the Mississippi, and presume that you are now well on 
your way back to Saint Paul. 

Thinking you were beyond the reach of mail-carriers, I have 
delayed writing you, and perhaps delayed too long. 

As to the " Rushton " canoe which I shipped to Aitkin for you, 
I found it difficult to arrange the air-chambers so as to be promptly 
taken out and put in, as was my first intention. They can be re- 
moved by taking out a few screws, but this may be found somewhat 
troublesome. If, in this particular, or any other, the boat does not 
satisfy you, I trust we shall be able to arrange matters before you 
start southward from this point. 

If you find the canoe too small for your purpose it will not be 
too late to substitute one of my larger boats, one which I feel sure 
will be well adapted for your voyage on the lower Mississippi. I 



140 



DOWN THE GREAT ElVEE. 



consider the canoe you purchased of me well adapted for two men, 
with a moderate amount of baggage. She has carried three men, 
but I would not recommend more than two. 

I wrote Mr. Warren Potter, of Aitkin, concerning a small piece 
of work on liie boat which had been overlooked before she left Saint 
Paul. I hope my letter will reach you at Aitkin, and wishing you 
fair weather and a comfortable time generally, 

I am very truly yours, 

H. L. Hinckley. 




TMeFIiJshtonCaHoe 



CHAPTER XIII. 



AITKIN TO BRAINERD, 

Pine Knoll, 

Thirty Miles Below Aitkin, 
August 16, 1881. 

N the morning" of the sixteenth of August 
our little fleet metaphorically weighed 
anchor and set sail from Aitkin — in 
other words, we launched our canoes 
and paddled out into the stream in presence 
of a considerable number of the inhabitants, 
who had assembled on the banks to witness our 
departure and wish us a successful voyage. As 
captain of the Discovery, I led the way, my entire 
crew consisting of a pilot engaged at Aitkin. Follow- 
ing me came my brother in the Rushton canoe, which 
we had named the Alice after my little daughter. 
He was also accompanied by a pilot. Mr. Paine in 
the Itasca, as we had christened the Rob Roy, though 
not "an elderly naval man," might have appropri- 
ately recited : 

" Oh, I am a cook and a captain bold, 
And the mate of this canoe ; 
And a bo'sun tight and a midshipmite, 
And the crew and pilot too ; " 

a4i) 




142 DOWIi THE GBEAT RIVER, 

not because he had dined on his crew, but because he 
sat alone in his Rob Roy, and their duties devolved on 
him. Thus we glided from this hospitable shore, our 
immediate destination being Brainerd, ninety-five miles 
distant by the river, but only twenty-seven as the 
crow flies, the Mississippi along its entire length 
being very tortuous. We might have saved ourselves 
many miles of canoeing by making portages. In one 
instance the river took a sweep of seven miles, and 
returned to within five rods of its starting point. In 
this section it is about fifty yards in width, with a 
current of about six miles an hour. It frequently 
changes its course. " Snags " and " sawyers " abound, 
but gave us little trouble, our small light craft easily 
gliding around them. The National Government is 
busy, even here, in removing obstructions, and the day 
is not distant when a line of small steamers will run 
between Aitkin and Brainerd. The banks of the 
river are low, rising but a few feet above its surface, 
while broad savannas, covered in summer with blue- 
grass from six to eight feet in height, are spread over 
a wide extent of country, commencing at the borders 
of the river, and are annually submerged at high 
water. The grass makes excellent fodder for stock. 

The timber of this region is chiefly pine, with occa- 
sionally a cluQip of spruce or tamarack. The surface 
of the land away from the river is somewhat rugged ; 
and the frequent windings of the stream, the green 
savannas, and the sombre forests, unite in producing 
a very pleasing landscape. Water-fowl are found in 
abundance on all the upper waters of the Mississippi, 
and while mosquitoes exceed them in numbers, they 
may almost be said to rival them in size ! New Jersey 



AITKIN TO BRAINERD. I43 

and Florida are famed for their mosquitoes. The 
swamps and bayous of Louisiana have their myriads; 
but of all these pestiferous insects I have ever seen 
and suffered from, I can truthfully say that the mos- 
quitoes of the valley of the Upper Mississippi in 
numbers and voraciousness are unequalled. 

Between Aitkin and Brainerd there were but two 
habitations to be seen from the river. With this ex- 
ception, all was a solitary wilderness. The day was 
wearing to its close when we came in sight of the first 
of these rustic homes. It was a log-cabin perched 
upon the western bank of the river, and occupied by 
an American named John Polly and his family. The 
bank, which they had named "Pine Knoll,'' was 
steep — perhaps twenty feet in height. Ascending it 
with some difficulty we challenged the hospitality of 
the household. Half a dozen daughters of the house, 
ranging from ten years upwards, greeted us, and we 
were at once made cordially welcome. The cabin com- 
prised two rooms and a loft. It was built in a clearing 
and surrounded by beech, birch, and maple trees. The 
proprietor, Mr. Polly, had a thriving garden, in which 
were promising crops of corn and potatoes, and his 
stock appeared in fine condition, while the industry 
and good taste of the young maidens had made the 
exterior of the premises bright with flowers. The 
interior was plain, and contained only the rude furni- 
ture of the pioneer, but it bore a homelike and com- 
fortable look ; and copies of " Harper's Monthly '' and 
the " Century," together with other current literature, 
were lying upon the table, while the walls were 
decorated with sundry wood engravings extracted from 

the illustrated weeklies. The family proved to be a 
10 



144 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

very superior one. They had resided in half a dozen 
different states, and had finally found a home in this 
wilderness ; the nearest white settlement being Aitkin, 
twenty miles distant by the river. 

After a pleasant evening's intercourse with the family 
the hour came for retiring, and we bunked upon the 
floor, the cabin affording no better sleeping accommoda- 
tion for casual visitors, who seldom if ever trouble their 
domestic arrangements and circumscribed limits. We 
might have reposed peacefully through the night, had 
not a sudden and severe thunder-storm sent rivulets of 
water through the cracks and fissures of the log struct- 
ure, which meandered in numerous and vigorous 
streams across the floor on which we had made our 
beds. Mrs. Polly was much annoyed at this state 
of things, and with many apologies endeavored to 
convince us that she was very much surprised at such 
an occurrence. The storm came to an end about 
midnight; the water was mopped up, and, wrapping 
our blankets once more about us, we lay down again 
upon our damp couch, and slept soundly till day- 
light. 

Camp Discomfort, 

Mouth of Pine River, Minnesota., 

August Seventeenth. 

Launched our canoes at seven o'clock, with colors 
flying and all hands in the best of spirits. After 
presenting each member of our party with a bouquet 
the Pollys took position on the bank of the river and 
waved us off. 

A mile below Pine Knoll we passed the Sioux 



AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 145 

Portage, so named from an incident connected with it, 
which was told to us by Mr. Polly, who explained that 
some ten or fifteen years before a band of Chippewas 
were descending the river closely pursued by a party 
of Sioux. The Chippewas, not being entirely familiar 
with its course, continued down the river, which here 
makes an extended detour to the eastward, then 
retraces its course westward, on a nearly parallel line. 
The Sioux, better informed, made a portage of about 
fifty yards and then, reaching a point down stream, 
placed themselves in ambush upon the bank, awaiting 
the arrival of the Chippewas. The latter, supposing 
their enemies still in pursuit in their canoes, were 
completely surprised when the Sioux opened fire upon 
them from a point in advance, and the whole party 
were massacred in their boats. 

Late in the afternoon one of our canoes was unfor- 
tunately capsized ; the men who were in it regained 
the shore with some difficulty, but much of the lug- 
gage was lost or damaged. We had scarcely repaired, 
as much as lay in our power, the effects of this accident, 
when we observed the heavens overcast with dark 
clouds, portending an approaching storm. We imme- 
diately landed near the junction of Pine River, with a 
view to protecting our persons and stores from the rain. 

About seven o'clock in the evening the storm broke 
out with more violence than is usually noted in this 
latitude. The precautions which wx had taken proved 
of but little or no avail. The stores, which had been 
carefully packed in a canoe, and covered up as well 
as our limited means permitted, were much damaged 
by the water. The tents were pitched in as favorable 
a spot with respect to the trees as the grauud would 



146 DOWN THE GREAT RIViJR. 

admit of, but not sufficiently so to render our position 
either safe or comfortable. Several trees in the vicinity 
of our encampment were struck by lightning, pnd the 
wind blew with such force that the crash of falling 
timber was frequently heard during the night. 

Notwithstanding the comfortless situation in which 
we found ourselves, there was an irresistible interest in 
the scene. A storm is at all times one of the most 
splendid phenomena in nature; but when experienced 
in the gloomy forests of the Mississippi, in the midst 
of a solitude, with no companions but a few fellow- 
sufferers standing in a shivering attitude around a 
small fire, it receives additional interest; every flash 
of lightning displays a scene which the painter would 
wish to fix upon the canvas. The loud peals of 
thunder resound more forcibly when reverberated by 
the rocky bluffs which border upon the river, and they 
contrast sublimely with the low but uninterrupted mut- 
tering of the waters. 

Although our tents were pitched soon after disem- 
barking, we found it quite impracticable to occupy 
them, as our clothing, blankets, and in fact the ground 
itself, was thoroughly soaked. To avoid drowsiness 
we drank large quantities of coffee, and at the request 
of my companions I entertained them with the story 
of my capture, imprisonment and escape during the 
late war. Beginning with my capture in Northern 
Virginia in the fall of 1868, I went back again to 
Libby Prison, journeyed in cattle- cars to Danville, 
told them of the prison-pen at Macon and its '^ tun- 
nels ; '^ then of our sojourn at Savannah ; our experi- 
ence at Charleston " under fire,'^ and our removal to 
the capital of the Palmetto State. I escaped again 




SCENES ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 



AITKIN TO BRAINERD, I47 

from Columbia ; wandered through the swamps of 
Carolina and Georgia; was recaptured, tried as a spy 
at Springfield ; escaped from Sylvania and reached the 
Federal lines at Savannah just as day was breaking. 

We passed at the mouth of Pine River one of the 
most wretched nights of our long voyage, relieved 
somewhat, perhaps, by a narration of events which I 
had hardly recurred to in many years. 

©tumtp-iSigljtl] Slag. 

Private House, 
' Brainerd, Minnesota^ 

August Eighteenth. 

We drank more coflPee at sunrise, and breakfasted on 
bread and bacon. Put our paddles into the water at 
six o'clock, and with favorable weather pulled with a 
will for Brainerd, our evening destination. Halted at 
one o'clock at the mouth of a small creek three miles 
above Brainerd, and had dinner in the shade of a large 
tree. Re-embarked at four o'clock in the afternoon. 
We had scarcely proceeded a mile when we were met 
by a large number of ladies and gentlemen in canoes 
and skiffs, including a detachment of the Brainerd 
Boat Club. Among those who were prominent in re- 
ceiving us were Warren Leland, Arthur E. Chase, of 
the Tribune, and Dr. Rosser, brother of General 
Rosser, late of the Confederate service. Our greeting 
by these genial people, whom we had left some six 
weeks previously when starting for the head-waters of 
the Mississippi, was most cordial, and will not soon 
fade from the memory of those who were the recip- 
ients of their courtesies. 

That evening, in accordance with an appointment, 



148 no WW THE GREAT RIVER. 

I delivered the first lecture of my trip in Ely's Hall, 
after an introduction by Judge Chauncy B. Sleeper. 
The audience was large and attentive, and the subject 
presented was, ^' Pioneers of the Mississippi," in 
which I talked of De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, 
Hennepin, and others who had engaged in the ex- 
ploration of the Great River. Several of my hearers 
showed their interest in the subject by coming long 
distances to the lecture, and one, George Barclay, 
a pioneer, told me he had brought his family thirty- 
seven miles with an ox-team to hear what I had to say 
of the old explorers. 

An event subjecting me to some inconvenience at 
the time, but amusing in many of its details, occurred 
at this place. As the flotilla of citizens met me upon 
the river, the first question with which I was hailed 
was : " Captain, what did you have in your trunk ? " 
I thought it a singular question, to say the least, and 
did not at first know whether to set it down to abso- 
lute impertinence or merely to the excessive but in- 
nocent curiosity of frontiersmen. However, the mat- 
ter was soon explained. My trunk, containing cloth- 
ing and other personal effects, had been despatched 
from Aitkin to Brainerd, and on the previous evening 
the express office in which it was stored had been 
broken into and the trunk stolen. The thieves had 
taken it into a pine thicket on the outskirts of the town 
and there rifled and distributed its contents among 
themselves. Fortunately for my lecture appointment 
I had brought a coat and vest with me in the canoe. 
At the very time I was delivering my lecture a half 
dozen ruffians, with my clothing on, were walking 
the streets of Brainerd. What they had no personal 



AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 149 

use for, they had pavyned in the saloons for liquor. The 
beaded pipe and tobacco pouch presented me by Flat- 
mouth, with a pair of moccasins, were left at a saloon 
as a consideration for half a dozen drinks. A mos- 
quito-helmet, made of bolting-cloth by my wife 
before we started for Northern Minnesota, and the use 
of which they failed to recognize, was offered and re- 
ceived in pawn as a dress. After the thieves had 
drunk quite freely at my expense, they went out to the 
" Last Turn," as a certain locality with a history is 
called, and lay down in a row in a state of intoxication. 

The Northern Pacific Express Company, in whose 
charge the trunk had been placed, took active meas- 
ures to discover the guilty parties and succeeded in 
finding and arresting them with some of my clothing 
still upon them. On the following morning I was sub- 
poenaed to give evidence against them, and went out 
with the district attorney through the streets of the 
town in search of stray articles of apparel. During 
this search I met a man having on the pair of cavalry 
boots which I had worn on my horseback journey 
across the continent in 1876. We picked up articles 
here and there, some of which, as has already been 
mentioned, had been pawned. 

At the examination which ensued, a man who ex- 
pressed willingness to testify against the thieves was a 
little snubbed by the prosecuting attorney, who thought 
that he probably knew very little about the affair. 
But when his turn came to take the witness-stand, he 
told a straightforward and interesting story. He said 
he happened to pass the thieves in the woods, while 
they were engaged in the disposition of their booty, 
and thinking their proceeding a little strange, asked 



150 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

them what they were doing. They replied that they 
had just arrived from New York, and being too poor 
to go to a hotel, had decided to take advantage of the 
grand dressing-room which nature had furnished them, 
and make their toilet under the trees. They finally 
made their questioner a present of a shirt and a pair 
of drawers. The witness concluded his testimony by 
throwing open his coat and exclaiming, "And IVe got 
one of Captain Glazier's shirts on now, your Honor ! " 
The shirt spoke for itself, as my name was marked 
upon it. His evidence and mine were conclusive, and 
the thieves were remanded to appear at the next term 
of court. They were not persons, however, to be 
easily disconcerted, for while the testimony was being 
given, one of them drew a bottle of whiskey from his 
pocket, and passing it U[) to the judge, invited him to 
take a drink. It is needless to add that he was 
promptly reprimanded. 

Brainerd has already been referred to as a thriving 
town. It is situated on the borders of an extensive 
pine forest, in a bend of the Mississippi, at the cross- 
ing of the river by the Northern Pacific Railroad. It 
is ninety-five miles below Aitkin by river, but only 
twenty-eight by railway. The town is literally built 
among the pine trees, the streets having been cut di- 
rectly through the original forest, and only such trees 
removed as were necessary for building and business 
purposes. Brainerd is the second town from the source 
of the river, and, after Saint Paul and Minneapo- 
lis, one of the most enterprising and populous on the 
Upper Mississippi. Seen from the river, which winds 
around it, it is very picturesque, the tall pines, straight 
as an arrow, overtopping the houses. Without a 



AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 



151 



history, this town appears to have leaped into exist- 
ence with a considerable population, mostly of New 
England origin, and will doubtless in a few years be- 
come a city of respectable dimensions. The *' North- 
ern Pacific" has its shops located here, and this cir- 
cumstance, together with the large and growing lum- 
ber interest, and the spirit and enterprise of the people 
who have cast their lot in this section, have given 
Brainerd its present prominence and prospective im- 
portance as a centre of industry. It is the capital of 
Crow Wing County is one hundred and thirty-six 
miles northwest of Saint Paul by railway, and supports 
a weekly paper and a bank. The population at the 
time of ray visit was about three thousand five hun- 
dred. 




CHAPTER XIV. 



BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. 



STtuentg-ulutl) SDap. 



nz^^ 



Private House, 

Crow Wing, Minnesotaf 
August 19, 1881. 




ETWEEN two and three o'clock in the 
afternoon a considerable number of the 
citizens of Brainerd accompanied ns to 
the bank of the river to witness the 
launch of our canoes and to send after us 
their good wishes. Warren Leland gave my 
canoe its send-oiF, and we were soon out of hear- 
ing of the cheers of the friendly multitude upon 
the shore. 

We halted at nightfall at Crow Wing, where we 
found shelter and food at the home of Charles Bailey, 
who, though he kept no regular hotel, welcomed 
strangers under his roof. He entertained us through- 
out the evening with stories of his hunting exploits, 
some of which almost rivalled the adventures ot Mun- 
chausen, and which he told so gracefully and with 
such an air of innocence and plausibility as to make 
them most convincing. He had killed, if I remember 
correctly, on some occasions, not less than forty deer in 
a single dav, while the narration of his encounters 
152' 



BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. I53 

with bears and wolves was quite enough to make the 
hair of the listener stand on end. What our host did 
not know of hunting and, I might add, of story-tell- 
ing, was hardly worth knowing. 

Crow Wing, a little hamlet of half a dozen farm- 
houses, is situated on the eastern bank of the Missis- 
sippi, just below its junction with Crow Wing River. 
Its history is brief. It was at one time a mission- 
station, and then aspired to become the great town of 
the Upper Mississippi; but the Northern Pacific 
Railroad dealt its death-blow by locating on a higher 
parallel of latitude and making its crossing of the river 
at Brainerd. 

aijirtidi] Elag. 

Vassaly House, 

Little Falls, Minnesota^ 
Auguit Twentieth. 

At seven o'clock in the morning we were again 
afloat. The day was a beautiful one, and the current 
being perceptibly stronger, we made rapid progress 
towards Little Falls, our evening destination. We 
were, however, unexpectedly delayed by an occurrence 
which, while it flattered our importance, gave expres- 
sion to a generous impulse on the part of the citizens 
we were about to visit. W^hen within about a mile 
and a half of Little Falls, we were suddenly startled 
by the appearance of two strangers who hailed us and 
introduced themselves as Judge A. F. Story, and A. 
J. Pierson, editor of the Transcript. They had hur- 
ried across a bend of the river to intercept us before 
reaching the town, and with many apologies and ex- 
pressions of welcome and good feeling, begged us to 



154 DOWN THE GEE AT EIVER. 

delay our approach to the town for an hour. The ex- 
planation they gave for this singular request was 
extremely complimentary to our little paity of ex- 
plorers. Preparations, they said, were being made for 
our reception, which, as they were not quite completed, 
would be spoiled by our premature advent upon the 
scene. They added that they had seen us coming 
down the river, and had rushed in hot haste to en- 
deavor to persuade us to defer for an hour our arrival 
at the town. We, of course, readily com[)lied with so 
kind and flattering a request, and at the expiration of 
about an hour resumed our paddles and started ex- 
pectantly for the landing. Before reaching this spot, 
however, we were met by a small fleet of row-boats 
filled with citizens anxious to be the first to extend a 
welcome to us; while on the river banks it appeared 
that half the population of Little Falls had assembled 
to greet our arrival. A temporary landing stage had 
been improvised expressly for our accommodation, a 
brass band saluted us with a lively air, while cheers 
and words of welcome met us on every side. Being 
called upon for a speech, I offered a few remarks, 
thanking the good citizens for the interest they mani- 
fested in my undertaking, and explaining briefly its 
character and aims. At the conclusion of my remarks 
we were escorted to the Yassaly House by Judge 
Story and a number of citizens, including the band, 
which honored us with sundry airs deemed by them 
appropriate to the occasion, and thus added not a little 
to our entertainment. In the evening I delivered my 
lecture to an attentive audience in Yassaly Hall, ac- 
cording to previous appointment. 



BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. J 55 

Sljlrtg-first JBatt. 

Farm House, 

Thirty Miles Below Little Falls, 

August Twenty-first. 

The day following our arrival at Little Falls being 
Sunday, we decided not to re-embark until afternoon. 
During the morning we received calls from a number 
of the leading citizens, among whom were Moses La- 
fond, one of the oldest residents, if not the very oldest ; 
and Hon. Nathan E-ichardson, an ex-member of the 
State Legislature. The latter showed us many relics 
gathered in the State strongly corroborating the 
theory of a pre-historic race, and gave us much valua- 
ble information concerning the early history of this 
section of Minnesota. 

The river at this point is divided by an island, on 
the eastern side of which the current is very swift, 
while on the western side the stream rushes along in 
a torrent, boiling and whirling over the rocks and 
bowlders in a descent of some twenty feet in perhaps 
eighty rods. This is the most considerable fall of the 
Mississippi between Pokegama and Saint Anthony. A 
rumor had been circulated in the town that we in- 
tended shooting the falls and rapids of the Mississippi 
from its source to its mouth ! Hence, when prepared 
to embark and continue our cruise, a number of the 
worthy citizens assembled to see us shoot Little Falls — 
a feat, it was said, which had never before been at- 
tempted. T may here say that the rumor w^as entirely 
without foundation. I was in no sense sportively in- 
clined, nor even possessed the qualification of an adept 
at handling a canoe under difficulties, and my long 



156 DOWN THE GREAT RIVEE. 

journey had been projected and undertaken, not with 
a view of displaying any extraordinary feats of nau- 
tical skill or physical endurance, but with the milder 
object of adding, if possible, to the geographical knowl- 
edge of this section of our country, and at the same 
time afford myself an opportunity of studying the 
character of our great North American river and the 
cities and people that lined its banks, extending over 
a distance of some twenty degrees of latitude. This op- 
portunity I should have failed in finding by the or- 
dinary and swifter mode of travel iag by railway or 
steamboat. I therefore declined to make a spectacle of 
myself by shooting the falls, preferring to make a 
portage around them. My brother George, however, 
younger and more venturesome in such matters than 
myself, determined to give the people the show they 
were expecting, and, entering his Kushton canoe, soon 
went bounding over the steep descent. By a skilful 
use of his paddle he managed to steer clear of the 
bowlders in his course, and further, to show his daring, 
stood upright for a minute or two. The descent was 
of course very rapid, and he soon reached the more 
placid current at the foot of the falls. The Alice 
had carried him securely over, springing buoyantly 
over the surging waters, swerving readily at command 
of the paddle, and accomplishing, without injury to 
herself or her passenger, what few canoes of so light 
a build would be capable of doing, and fewer amateur 
canoeists would, I think, have had the temerity to 
undertake. 

Below the falls we found the strongest current we 
had yet encountered, and during the afternoon ran no 
less than thirteen rapids, including Pike Rapidsf 



BEAINEED TO MONTICELLO. 1§7 , 

During our lightning progress down the latter, we 
scarcely knew, for three-quarters of a mile, whether we 
should find ourselves at the end on the surface, or at 
the bottom of the river. Our canoes were fille<l with 
water, and we received a most thorough drenching. 
This section of the Mississippi presents a succession of 
rapids as far down as Saint Cloud. 

As night approached we halted near the residence 
of Mrs. William McNeil, a widow. This lady was 
successfully conducting a tolerably large farm, and 
with true western hospitality tendered us a night's 
accommodation in her dwelling. A volume treating 
of western scenes and people would be incomplete if 
it made no reference to the western women. The 
isolated life which many of them lead, and the insuf- 
ficiency of domestic help, together with the vicissi- 
tudes of the pioneer, have developed a race of sturdy, 
self-reliant women, lacking, let me be understood, in 
no womanly graces; but supplementing these with 
strong traits of character which make them fit com- 
panions of the brave, stalwart and enterprising men 
whose wives, daughters and sisters they are. It is no 
uncommon thing in the northwest, should a husband 
die, for the widow to assume the business and conduct 
it quite as successfully as her late husband had done 
during his life. Many of the farms managed by 
women in Minnesota, Wisconsin and Iowa are as 
prosperous in appearance, as well and thriftily man- 
aged, and equally as remunerative, as those in the 
hands of the men. Their feminine capabilities and 
talents are moreover practically demonstrated in many 
ways among the intelligent communities of the frontier. 
11 



153 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

West House, 

Saint Cloud, Minnesota^ 
August Twenty-second. 

Embarking at the usual hour in the morning, we 
were met by a strong head-wind, against which it 
seemed ahuost impossible to advance. The river was 
widening and the country adjacent had been longer 
settled, leaving fewer trees upon its banks for protec- 
tion. About noon we reached Sauk Rapids, having a 
fall of about twenty feet in the course of sixty rods, 
which my brother successfully passed over, but the re- 
maining members of the party, less adventurous, again 
preferred carrying their canoes around the rapids to 
the risk of being swamped in their descent. 

My brother reached Saint Cloud in advance of us, 
and returned accompanied by a son of Captain West, 
a prominent resident, who kindly escorted us to the 
landing where an assemblage of citizens awaited us. 
In the evening I delivered my lecture at the Opera 
House, being introduced to the audience by Judge L. 
A. Evans. Among those who called upon me were 
several clergymen, including a Catholic priest, and all 
evinced an intelligent interest in the purpose of my 
journey. 

Saint Cloud is very pleasantly located on the western 
bank of the Mississippi, just below Sauk Rapids. It 
is the capital of Stearns County, seventy-five miles 
north of Saint Paul by railway, and six hundred and 
seventy from the river's source. For some years it 
was considered the leading commercial and manufac- 
turing town of Northern Minnesota, and is one of the 



BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. 159 

oldest settlements in the State. Here we encountered 
the second bridge across the Mississippi, the first being 
at .Brainerd. Saint Cloud has always been a busy 
town, having a population of about three thousand five 
hundred, and is characterized by a spirit of enterprise. 
It has a public library, a state normal school, and two 
banks; two newspapers, one of which was edited by 
Jane Grey Swisshelm, a lady of wide reputation as a 
writer; several saw, planing and flour mills, foundries 
and other industrial establishments; all of which ap- 
peared to be in a highly flourishing condition. A con- 
siderable acreage of wheat and other cereals is raised 
in this vicinity, and the future of this progressive little 
city is sure to be prosperous. 

®l]irt^-tl]irb gag. 

Private House, 

Monticello, Minnesota^ 

August Twenty-third. 

A strong southerly wind faced us in the morning 
when we pushed off from the crowded landing-place, 
and our day's work was the most trying we had en- 
countered since leaving Brainerd. We had forty-three 
miles to paddle with a slack current, but finally 
reached Monticello between four and five o'clock in 
the afternoon, considerably fartigued by the effort ex- 
pended in pulling against the high wind. A cordial 
welcome awaited us, however, from the people lining 
the beach, while a band, brought out for the occasion, 
struck up a lively air, and afterward volunteered to 
play at my lecture. On this occasion I was intro- 
duced to my audience by Mr. Henry Kreis, a substitute 
for the gf^tlenian who had been appointed to perform 



1QQ DOWN THE GREAT RIVEM, 

that ceremony, but was preveiited by unforeseen cir- 
cumstances from appearing. Only the day before, the 
gentleman in question had had an altercation with a 
fellow-citizen which resulted in his kicking his op- 
ponent down-stairs, and this serious breach of good 
manners and of law and order had ended by his being 
temporarily lodged in jail. His son called on me 
bearing the apologies of his father and a message to 
the effect that an important legal engagement alone 
prevented him from fulfilling his appointment with 
me. It is well to add that this gentleman was one of 
the most highly respected citizens of the town, and 
that public opinion appeared to be strongly in his 
favor. 

Monticello is a pleasant little town of from four to 
five hundred inhabitants. Hon. Samuel E. Adams, 
editor of the Monticello Times, and one of the pioneers 
of this part of Minnesota, extended many courtesies 
to our little party; and here I met two of my cousins, 
sons of Henry Glazier, who had been a resident of the 
State for many years, and one of the early settlers of 
Wright County. 



CHAPTER XV. 



ilONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 

Sfljlrtjj-fotxvtl) SDag. 

Sherburne House, 
Elk River, Minnetota^ 
August 24, 1881. 

spent the morning with uncle Henry's 
family at their home in Mon ti cello ; 
walked down to the landing after din- 
ner, accompanied by cousins Ward and 
George Glazier, Mr. Adams and others 
to whom we had been introduced during 
our sojourn. A waving of handkerchiefs, the 
discharge of firearms and the prolonged cheering 
which followed the launch of our canoes, bespoke the 
kindly interest felt in us, and for our undertaking. 
Large numbers of country people were assembled at 
many ])oints along the river to see us pass. We still 
found river-drivers, wongans, logs, booms, jams and, in 
fact, we were told that we should meet these peculiarities 
of the Upper Mississippi as far as La Crosse. The 
village of Elk River is situated on the east bank of 
the Mississippi, opposite the river of this name which 
comes in from the west. Its population is small, 
probably not exceeding one thousand or twelve hun- 
dred persons. 

161 




lff<> DOWN THE GREAT RIVEB. 

Mississippi Hous^ 

Friedley, Minnesota^ 

August Twenty-fifth. 

We took to water between nine and ten o'clock at 
Elk River. Firm southerly winds met us at the very 
outset and it was only by dint of a most persistent use 
of our paddles that we succeeded in forcing our canoes 
down stream. George having left us at Elk River in 
order to arrange for my lecture at Minneapolis, had 
encumbered us with an extra canoe which tended 
largely to impede our progress, as we were compelled 
to tow it at our stern. Anoka was reached soon after 
one o'clock. It was our intention to pass this place, 
as it stands some distance back on a tributary of the 
Mississippi, but being blown ashore we concluded 
to walk up to the town, where we had dinner at a 
restaurant. After a stroll through some of the leading 
streets of this enterprising little city, we returned to 
our canoes and continued our course toward Friedley, 
at which place we disembarked a few minutes before 
sunset. 

Friedley, or Fridley, as it is sometimes spelled, is a 
small hamlet in Anoka County, of less than three 
hundred inhabitants, and is some seven miles above 
Minneapolis. It enjoyed a bubble reputation some 
years ago, being looked upon by its founders as the 
future great city of the Upper Mississippi, but like 
many another its site was unfavorable, and it has 
been so overshadowed by its more fortunate rivals 
that it is now seldom mentioned, except in connectioo 
with it« past aspirations. 



MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS, Jg5 

Nicollet House, 

Minneapolis, Minnesotaj 

August Twenty-sixth. 

We spent the morning in our quiet retreat at 
Friedley. My notes, covering our voyage from 
Aitkin, were perfected at this place and business and 
private correspondence attended to. 

Re-embarked soon after dinner, and aided by a 
strong current dropped down to within three miles of 
the Falls of Saint Anthony, where we were compelled 
to take our canoes out of the water owing to the prev- 
alence of jams and log-booms. The canoes were car- 
ried through Minneapolis and around the cataract on a 
farm wagon. After they had been carefully placed in 
a storehouse and we had registered at the " Nicollet," 
I walked out to the Falls. 

Long before coming in sight of this grand spectacle, 
the ear is greeted by the deep, solemn roar that truly 
resembles the " sound of many waters." The pulse 
of the traveler naturally quickens as he feels him- 
self approaching the scene where Father Hennepin, 
of old, was so moved with admiration as to christen 
the red man's falls after his patron saint. It ap- 
pears indeed as though some mighty strife were 
going on amid the elements, and as one advances, a 
strange, indescribable feeling steals over the senses, a 
feeling that awakens a spirit of admiration for the 
handiwork of the Almighty. The Falls at length 
burst upon the enraptured view — the celebrated Falls 
of Saint Anthony. One is not here so completely over- 
whelmed as when viewing the incomparable Niagara, 



IQQ DOWN THE GREAT BIFES. 

with its great height of waterfall, its deafening roar, 
and the lofty character of its scenery. Saint Anthony 
is more within the grasp of human oomprehension^ 
and is therefore looked upon with greater pleasure. 
Niagara appears to wear a kind of threatening frown, 
while the former greets you with a winning and com- 
placent smile. Yet, on account of the vast body of 
water continually rushing over the rocky mass in the 
bed of the river, the scene is one of sublimity as well 
as one of loveliness and beauty. As I gazed on 
these falls and listened to the warring elements I was 
forcibly impressed with the truth of the beautiful lines 

of the poet Brainard : 

"And what are we, 
That hear the question of that voice sublime ? 
Oh, what are all the notes that ever rung 
From war's vain trumpet^ by thy thundering side? 
Yes, what is all the riot man can make 
In his short life, to thine unceasing roar? 
And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him 
Who drowned the world, and heaped the waters far 
Above its loftiest mountain ? A light wave, 
That breaks and whispers at its Maker's might I " 

Concerning the height of the fall and the breadth of 
the river at this point, much incorrect information has 
been published. Hennepin, who was the first white 
man to visit it, states it to be fifty or sixty feet high. 
It was this explorer who gave it the name which 
it now bears, in honor of Saint Anthony of Paduii^ 
wham he had taken for the protection of his discovery. 
Carver reduces its height to about thirty feet; his 
stMctures upon Hennepin, however, whom he charges 
with exaggeration, might, with propriety, be retorted 
upon him, and we feel strongly inclined to say of him, 
as he said of his predecessor, " the good Father, I fear, 



MOMTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 167 

too often had no other foundation for his accounts than 
report, or at most a slight inspection." Lieutenant 
Pike, who is more accurate than any traveler whom we 
have followed, states the perpendicular fall to be six- 
teen and a half feet. It was again measured in 1817 
with a plumb-line, from the table rock from which the 
water was falling, and found to be the same. The 
measurement at this time was made with a rough 
water-level, which made it about fifteen feet. The 
difference of a foot is trifling and might depend upon 
the place where the measurement was made ; but we 
cannot account for the statement made by Schoolcraft 
that the river has a perpendicular pitch of forty feet> 
and this as late as fourteen years after Pike's measure- 
ment. 

The breadth of the river near the brink of the fall 
is five hundred and ninety-four yards. Below the fall 
it contracts to about two hundred yards. There is a 
considerable rapid both above and below, and a portage 
of two hundred and sixty poles in length was usually 
made here in pioneer days. The entire fall or differ- 
ence of level between the place of disembarking and 
reloading, was stated by Pike to be fifty-eight feet, 
which is, undoubtedly, very near the truth. The 
whole fall to the foot of the rapids, which extend sev- 
eral miles down the river, may be estimated at about 
one hundred feet. 

This romantic spot in the Mississippi is not without 
a legend to hallow its scenery and enhance the interest 
which of itself it is calculated to awaken. The follow- 
ing tragic story was current some years ago among the 
Indians and vrhite settlers in the neighborhood of the 
Falls. Ampato Sapa, a youthful female, whose name 



lf)8 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

signifies the dark day^ was united in marriage to a 
young Indian of the Dakota tribe. For several years 
they lived together happily and two children were born 
to them. Both parents doted on their children with a 
depth of feeling scarcely equaled by more civilized 
whites. The man became great as a hunter, and many 
of the surrounding families sought his guardianship 
and friendship, and shared the products of his chase. 
Some of them, anxious to strengthen their interest with 
the successful hunter, urged him to form a connection 
with their family, telling him that a second wife was 
indispensable to a man of his talent and importance, 
who would probably soon be acknowledged as a chief. 
The daughter of an influential man was presented to 
him, and, animated with the ambition of attaining to 
high honor in his nation by a union with the daughter 
of a man of great influence, he took a second wife, 
without mentioning the subject to the young mother 
of his children. Desirous of conciliating his first wife, 
for whom he still retained much regard, he introduced 
the subject to her in these words : " You know, 
Ampato, that I can love no woman so fondly as I do 
you. With deep regret I have seen you of late sub- 
jected to toils which must be oppressive, and from 
which I would gladly relieve you ; yet I know 
of no other way of doing so than by associating with 
you in the duties of our household one who shall 
relieve you from the trouble of entertaining the numer- 
ous guests whom my growing importance in the nation 
collects around me. I have, therefore, resolved upon 
taking another wife, but she shall always be subject to 
your control." With the deepest concern his wife 
listened to this unexpected announcement. She remon- 



MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 171 

strated with him in the kindest terms, and tearfully 
entreated by every consideration her devoted love could 
suggest, that he would not let another take her place 
in his affections. The Indian, with much duplicity, 
still concealed from her the secret of his marriage with 
another, while she put forth her strongest appeals in 
the effort to convince him that she was equal to the 
tasks imposed upon her. She pleaded all the endear- 
ments of their past life, dwelling on his former fond- 
ness for her, his regard for her happiness and that of 
their children, and cautioned him to beware of the 
consequences of uniting himself to a woman of whom 
he knew very little. Finding her still opposed to his 
wishes he at length informed her that further opposi- 
tion on her part was useless as he had already selected 
another partner; and that if she could not receive his 
new wife as a friend, she must receive her as an encum- 
brance, for he had resolved she should reside with him. 
Deeply distressed at this information, she stole 
away from the cabin with her infant and fled to her 
father. She remained with him for a time, until some 
Indians, with whom he lived, went up the Mississippi 
on a winter hunt. When they returned in early spring 
with their canoes loaded with skins, they encamped 
near the Falls. After they had left in the morning, 
Ampato lingered near the spot, and soon launching a 
light canoe, entered it with her babes. She paddled 
down the stream chanting her death-song. Her friends 
saw her only too late, and their attempts to arrest her 
progress were of no avail. She was heard to sing in 
a doleful voice of the past happiness she had enjoyed 
while she was the sole object of her husband's affections. 
Finally her voice was drowned in the roar of the cataract; 



172 DOWJ^ THE GREAT RIVER, 

the rapids carried down her little bark ; it came to the 
edge of the Falls ; was seen for a moment covered with 
spray — but never was a trace of the canoe or its hapless 
freight seen more. The Indians say that often a voice 
has been heard to sing a piteous song near the edge of 
the falling water, and that the burden of the song is 
always the inconstancy of Ampato's husband. Some 
assert that her spirit wanders near the spot with her 
children clinging to her bosom. Such tales and tradi- 
tions the Indians treasure and relate to the traveler. 

Minneapolis proper is situated on the west side of 
the river, while Saint Anthony, which by mutual agree- 
ment has become united to the first-named city, is on 
the east side — the two forming one city under the 
name of Minneapolis. It is ten miles from Saint 
Paul. The city proper is built on broad esplanades 
overlooking the river and its falls, rapids and pict- 
uresque bluffs. It is the first place of magnitude 
reached in descending the river. The streets are laid 
out at right angles, eighty feet in width, bordered by 
sidewalks twenty feet wide, with double rows of trees 
on each side. The founders of western cities have 
gained wisdom from the mistakes of those of the eastern 
coast. Notwithstanding the broad expanse of country, 
which to the early colonists seemed limitless, the cities 
and towns built on and near the Atlantic seaboard 
were modeled upon European plans, even to the nar- 
row streets and compact rows of buildings. Not so in 
the West. The original plans of our western towns 
are so wisely designed that no future increase of 
population, with its attendant demands for dwelling 
and business houses, can ever transform them into an 
aggregation of dense, stifling streets and lanes, such as 



MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 175 

are too often found in our first-class eastern cities. 
Health and beauty are two objects which have been 
steadily kept in view in their foundation. Though 
their rude beginnings have not always been attractive, 
the possibilities of beauty are always there and time is 
sure to develop them. 

Saint Anthony saw its beginning in 1849, though a 
single log-cabin had stood upon its site for twelve 
years before this date. The first dwelling in Minne- 
apolis proper was erected in the winter of 1849-50, 
by Colonel J. H. Stevens. Speaking of his early 
residence and neighbors, the colonel says : " We have 
often retired at night and opened our eyes in the morn- 
ing upon the wigwams of either the Sioux, Chippe- 
was, or Winnebagos, which had gone up v/hile we 
slept." 

The name " Minneapolis " is compounded of Indian 
and Greek ; Minne being the Sioux for water , and 
ipolis the Greek for c%> ^^^ meaning the water city^ 
or the city of the waters. It is located on what was 
formerly known as the Military Reserve of Fort Snell- 
ing, a reservation nine miles square assigned to and 
surrounding the Fort for purposes of forage. In 1855, 
Congress granted the right of preemption to the set- 
tlers, and since that period a rapid growth of the city 
has taken place. In 1856, the population w^as only 
two thousand, while that of Saint Anthony was about 
three thousand five hundred. 

A suspension bridge connecting the two cities was 
built in 1855. It cost over fifty thousand dollars, 
and was the first suspension bridge ever built in a 
Territory, and the first to span the Mississippi. A 
ferry-boat at this point had been established in 1851 



176 DOWJN^ THE GREAT IllVER. 

That summer its proprietor realized three hundred 
dollars. In 1855, the receipts had increased to twelve 
thousand. In 1880, the population of the united 
towns numbered nearly fifty thousand, with the certain 
prospect of doubling, trebling, and even quadrupling 
that number in a very few years. 

The University of Minnesota is located here, and 
there are several other important educational institu- 
tions. The public schools are in every respect ex- 
cellent; the Athenaeum Library contains about ten 
thousand volumes, while the University possesses 
one of several thousand. There are more than sixty 
churches of all denominations, and some of the sacred 
edifices are very handsome. 

The river is here about six hundred yards in width, 
and above Saint Anthony Falls rushes through low 
banks, rising in uneven bluffs from five to twenty-five 
feet, in foaming, tumultuous rapids, until it reaches the 
precipice, whence it springs in a single leap down a 
distance of about sixteen feet. Thence it proceeds in 
a series of rapids over piles of rocks in its bed for 
some distance, the great descent being made of 
eighty-two feet in two miles. Below the Falls the 
clifPs are bold and picturesque, the character of the 
scenery varying. 

The Falls are divided by Cataract Island, from 
which a dam has been constructed to the eastern shore 
to furnish water-power for manufacturing purposes, 
and nearly the whole volume of water now rushes 
through the western channel. The Falls may be seen 
with equal advantage from either shore, but the best 
view is obtained from the centre of the Suspension 
Bridge which crosses the river above them, and from 



MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 177 

which the rapids may be seen boiling and rushing 
immediately beneath. 

These falls furnish abundant power for manufact- 
uring purposes, and as early as 1856 large mills were 
already in operation at Saint Anthony, in which rail- 
lions of feet of lumber were annually sawn. The logs 
which fill the Mississippi above the Falls, sometimes 
even to the point of obstructing navigation, all have 
their destination at Minneapolis. Here they are con- 
verted into lumber and laths and sent to distant 
sections of the country, perhaps in the form of huge 
rafts again set afloat upon the river. The lumber 
business of this city is immense, probably exceeding 
that of any other city in the country. It is equaled 
only by the flour mills of this rapidly growing western 
giant. Minneapolis stands at the head of the flour 
manufacturing of the world. She has no equal in this 
branch of manufacture either on this continent or in 
Europe. The wheat raised in such immense quantities in 
the Northwest is here ground into flour and shipped to 
every part of the United States; while vast quantities 
are exported to Europe. The banks of the river are 
lined with immense flour mills, which furnish employ- 
ment to thousands of hands. 

Minneapolis is more a manufacturing than a com- 
mercial city. Saint Paul monopolizes much of the 
commerce of the Upper Mississippi. Steamboats can 
only ascend to Fort Snelling, some miles below the 
Falls, hence Minneapolis depends largely upon the 
railroads for transportation. But while Saint Paul 
measures miles of streets lined with stores and ware- 
houses, Minneapolis can show an equal number of 
mills and factories. It is alvso a city of residences— a 



178 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

beautiful city. The streets are broad and amply 
shaded, and the houses are, many of them, very hand- 
somely built and surrounded by ornamental gardens. 
Minneapolis is the summer resort of thousands of 
visitors who come here from all points on the Missis- 
sippi, as far down as New Orleans, to escape the enerva- 
tion of a southern summer, and enjoy the pure and 
healthful climate and delicious scenery of the city and its 
surroundings. It is especially a resort for invalids, who 
find its atmosphere bracing and health-giving. It is 
moreover the centre of a number of delightful sum- 
mer haunts, all of which are daily growing in popu- 
larity. Lakes Calhoun, Harriet, and Minnetonka, and 
the Falls of Minnehaha, attract thousands of visitors, 
and present not only beauty of scenery, but all the con- 
veniences and improvements one seeks for at watering- 
places in the East, and which the traveler from that 
section is hardly prepared to encounter on the confines 
of civilization in the Northwest. Boating, bathing, 
fishing and hunting are among the daily amusements, 
while commodious hotels and attractive cottages stud 
the shores of the lakes, and provide the numerous 
visitors with every comfort. These summer resorts 
are increasing in number and popularity, and the many 
lakes which are scattered over the State of Minne- 
sota, will all of them, sooner or later, make their at- 
tractions known to the outside world and draw many 
summer visitors. Much of this transient travel will 
find its way through Minneapolis, being attracted 
thither by the beautiful Falls of Saint Anthony ; so 
that while many of our eastern and northern cities 
record their largest number of inhabitants during the 
winter months, Minneapolis will, and in fact already 



MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. j^ig 

does, on the contrary, find her population very con^ 
siderably increased during the summer. 

Minneapolis, including Saint Anthony, is connected 
with Saint Paul by three lines of railway, while the 
railroads diverge to every point of the compass, bring- 
ing an influx of travel and produce and carrying away 
its merchandise. The city is surrounded by a mag- 
nificent farming country, which is fast becoming settled 
by a superior class of immigrants — Americans from 
New England and New York State, Germans from the 
Fatherland, and Norwegians and Swedes from the 
land of Thor. The labor of these farmers and the 
product of their industry contribute to keep its mills 
running, to increase their number, and to make this 
city the great bread-giver of the country. People 
may dispense with many of the artificial needs created 
by civilization; they may wrap furs around them in- 
stead of the products of the loom ; they may dwell in 
caves, or construct for themselves huts of mud and 
the boughs of trees, but the whole human race, civiK 
ized and savage, must have bread, or its equivalent. 
The Indian raised his maize, finding an animal diet 
insufficient for his needs; and the great wheat fields 
of Minnesota furnish something better than maize for 
the race that has displaced and succeeded him ; and the 
many mill-stones of Minneapolis, set in motion by 
nature's engine, the Falls of Saint Anthony, grind 
and crush the wheat into a shape ready to be trans- 
formed into bread for the million. 

The lumbermen of the Upper Mississippi, who form 
a distinct olass, will never cease their labor so long as 
there is a pine forest left standing; while the swift 
current of >he river furnishes a highway on which, 



180 DOWJ^ THE GREAT RIVER. 

without the aid of steam or sails, and with river-drivers 
for captains and crews, their drives of logs find ready 
and inexpensive transportation. Transformed from 
their crude state into a shape to meet the needs of the 
builder, the river still affords them free transit and 
numerous markets along its more than two thousand 
miles of shore. 

The inhabitants of Minneapolis, like those of this 
entire section of country, are pushing, enterprising citi- 
zens from the eastern and north-eastern states, who, re- 
lieved from the difficulties which beset them in their 
native home, and with all the resources of the Great 
West at their command, accomplish wonderful things 
in very brief periods of time. The sprinkling of 
Germans and Scandinavians prefer for the most part 
to settle in the country. There is, of course, the usual 
class of river-men, boatmen, and lumbermen of all 
kinds, together with the roughs who infest, more or less, 
all new cities; but the latter are comparatively few. 

Minneapolis, we venture to prophesy, is destined to 
become the metropolis of the North-west. She is 
not only a great manufacturing city, but the most 
beautiful and attractive in this region. As age tones 
down the still manifest newness of her twenty-five or 
thirty years of existence, wears away the rough edges 
of some of her people, and substitutes handsome 
edifices for the few remaining rude habitations and 
business places of her early pioneers, she will become 
still more beautiful, and in a few years will abundantly 
repay a pilgrimage to the Upper Mississippi, while 
the Falls of Saint Anthony will continue to be not the 
least of her attractions to the tourist in search of the 
tjublrme and beautiful. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

TEN DAYS AT SA.INT PAUL. 

Fort Snelling — White Bear Lake — Minne-ha-ha, 

^^^^flpSTV|^E re-embarked at ten o'clock on the morn- 
^^mSmr: I ^^^ ^^ August twenty-seventh, just below 
^^l^l/iJ ^^^ rapids at Minneapolis and, aided by 
r^^fcj/^ an unusually strong current, soon found 
"^f^^yi ourselves opposite Fort Snelling, which is 
:^^\ midway between Minneapolis and Saint Paul. 

'^ Here we halted to view one of the oldest land- 
marks of the North-west. 
Fort Snelling is situated at the confluence of the 
Minnesota and Mississippi rivers, on the west bank of 
the latter. The buildings of the garrison are upon a 
high bluff, two hundred feet above the water level, 
stretching to the north and west in a gently undulating 
and fertile prairie interspersed here and there w^ith 
heavy groves of timber. Around this Fort cluster 
memories of the earl}'' struggles of the pioneers of 
civilization with the savage tribes that have since 
been sent to other hunting-grounds. It is a promi- 
nent object in one of the finest landscapes of the Upper 
Mississippi. Recent alterations, however, have con- 
siderably changed and modernized the surroundings 
and deprived it of much of its picturesqueness. The 

(183) 



134 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

building erected outside of the walls for the accom- 
modation of officers, and the demolition of the tower 
that formerly occupied the extreme point of the bluff, 
have no doubt given it much less the appearance of a 
fortification than it previously wore, although making it 
presumably much pleasanter for those who reside there. 
The Fort is always open to those who may incline to 
to look wdthin its walls and view whatever there is of 
interest to be seen. In these days of peace, however, 
it does not present a very warlike appearance. Of 
incidents connected with its history many interesting 
stories are told which illustrate the dangers, trials and 
hardships to which the early settlers were subjected, 
and the character of their savage neighbors. 

Some of the most efficient officers of our military 
service have been quartered here, and have received 
with hospitality the various scientific expeditions that 
have from time to time passed through the country. 
On the island at the mouth of the Minnesota, Lieuten- 
ant Pike encamped and entered into negotiations with 
the Indians for the site of the present Fort. In a report 
to the War Department in 1817, Major Long recom- 
mended the position for a permanent fortification. In 
1819, a detachment of the Sixth Infantry, numbering 
three hundred men, under Co4onel Leavenworth, left 
Detroit with instructions to occupy the Fort, and on 
the seventeenth of September they established a canton- 
ment on the south side of the Minnesota near its 
junction with the Mississippi. 

Work on Fort Snelling was begun in the summer 
of 1820, at which time Colonel Snelling was in com- 
mand. Saint Louis, distant nine hundred miles, was 
then the nearest town of any importance. The first 



TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. ^35 

row of barracks that were put up were constructed of 
hewn logs, the others of stone. The Fort was built in 
the form of a diamond in order to harmonize with the 
ground at the extreme points. Where a tree had stood 
was located a half-moon battery, to the rear of which 
were the quarters of the officers, a very neat stone 
building, the front of cut stone; at the opposite 
point a tower. The Fort was enclosed by a high 
stone wall, and is well represented in the accompanying 
illustration. 

Among the best remembered incidents in connection 
with this place is the fact that the first white woman 
who saw the Falls of Saint Anthony was the wife of 
Captain George Gooding of the Fifth Infantry. 

With reference to the Minnesota River, formerly 
known as the Saint Peter, it is stated to have been first 
visited by Captain Jonathan Carver, towards the close 
of the eighteenth century, who published an account 
of its discovery in 1778. It was again thoroughly 
explored in 1823, under instructions from the War 
Department. Its elevation above tlie Gulf is seven 
hundred and forty-four feet. The precise latitude of 
its mouth 44° 52' 46''. 

The atmosphere of this locality is represented as 
serene and transparent during the spring and summer 
seasons, and free from the humidity which is so ob- 
jectionable a trait of our eastern latitudes. The mean 
temperature is 45°. As to its geological and miner- 
alogical condition, I refer to Pike, Schoolcraft, Nicollet, 
and other eminent scientists, who have preceded me 
in the exploration of this section of the Mississippi. 
It will be sufficient here to say that the stratificatioi? 
at and belo Saint Anthony Falls consists wholly of 



186 DOWN TEE GREAT RIVER. 

formations of sandstone and limestone, horizontally 
deposited, whose relative ages are chiefly inferable 
from the evidences of organic life in the shape of 
fossils which they embrace. The lowest of this series 
of rock is said to be a white sandstone composed of 
transparent and loosely cohering grains. 

Still favored with a brisk current and an encourag- 
ing breeze at our backs, we glided swiftly down to 
within two miles of the northern limits of Saint Paul. 
Here we halted and had luncheon in the shade of a 
cluster of a large trees standing on the west bank of 
the river. 

Soon after re-embarking we were met by a dele- 
gation of the Minnesota Boat Club, who came up in 
their boats to exchange greetings and welcome us to 
their club-rooms, a courtesy always appreciated by voy- 
agers, and especially by those in possession of craft 
requiring careful housing. I should be unworthy of 
civilities if I failed to say that the young men com- 
posing this club are gentlemen in the fullest sense of 
the term, and he is indeed most fortunate who holds 
a key to their delightful quarters on " The Island." 

On leaving the boat-house we ascended a flight of 
steps leading up to the bridge which crosses the river 
at this point. Here we found some thousands of citi- 
zens congregated, who had apparently come out to wit- 
ness our reception by the boat-club. A carriage was 
in waiting, into which we were ushered and driven to 
the Metropolitan. 

An appointment having been previously made, I 
lectured at Sherman Hall at the usual hour; was 
favored with a very full house, which, considering the 
torrid condition of the weather at the time, was more 



TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL, Jgg 

than I had expected. The press criticisms evinced a de- 
cided interest in the " Pioneers of the Mississippi," and 
were all that I could have desired. 

At the time of my visit, Saint Paul had about fifty 
thousand inhabitants, with large commercial interests, 
which were daily increasing in extent and importance. 
The city was originally built on the eastern, or left 
bank of the Mississippi, on a plain, some eighty feet 
above the river, but it has now extended to the western 
bank also. On the eastern side its site now embraces 
four distinct terraces, arranged around the curve of the 
river in the form of an amphitheatre with a southern 
exposure. The second and third terraces, upon which 
the city is principally built, widen out into level semi- 
circular plains. 

Father Hennepin was the first white man to reach 
the site of Saint Paul, having visited the locality in 
1680. In 1766, Carver made a treaty with the Dakota 
Indians in what is now known as Carver's Cave. In 
1837, the first United States treaty was entered into 
with the Sioux, who threw their lands open to settle- 
ment, and the first claim was entered by Pierre Perent, 
a Canadian traveler and adventurer, who sold it two 
years later for forty dollars. His former claim now 
embraces the principal part of the city. The first 
building was erected in 1838, and the place continued 
a mere Indian trading-post for several years thereafter. 
It was surveyed in 1845, and in 1847 there were but 
three white families upon the ground. In 1846, Saint 
Paul had but ten white inhabitants. In 1847, it was 
laid out into village streets, and in 1849 became the 
site of a Catholic mission. A municipal government 
was established in 1854, when the town had three 



190 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

thousand inhabitants. In 1856, the number had in- 
creased to ten thousand. In 1880, twenty-four years 
later, it had been multiplied by five, th© census returns 
giving fifty thousand, with a growth of one hundred 
per cent, during the previous ten years. In 1849, the 
business of the place amounted to $131,000. In 1854, 
it had increased to $6,000,000, with |700,000 of capi- 
tal invested. 

The original town was regularly laid out, but the 
additions are irregular. The streets are well graded 
and generally paved. The third terrace is underlaid 
by a stratum of limestone from twelve to twenty feet 
thick, and of this material many of the buildings are 
constructed. The city has several excellent hotels, and 
many churches belonging to the various denominations 
of Christians. Five bridges cross the river; lines of 
horse-cars connect all parts of the city, and a system 
of sewerage drains it of all impurities. The State 
Capitol — in process of erection when I saw it — occu- 
pies one entire square, on an elevation overlooking the 
city and river. The Opera House, on Wabasha 
Street, seating about twelve hundred persons, is a large 
and handsome building. The Academy of Sciences 
contains about one hundred and thirty thousand speci- 
mens in natural history. The Historical Society and 
Library Association have each fine public libraries. 
The public and private schools of Saint Paul are all 
of the first order of excellence, and there are several 
female seminaries of a high grade. A Protestant and a 
Catholic Orphan Asylum and three hospitals represent 
the public charitable institutions. 

Saint Paul is nominally at the head of navigation of 
the Mississippi, the further progress of steamboats up 



TEN DAYS AT MINT PAUL. 191 

the river being checked by the rapids below the Falls 
of Saint Anthony. The river here is open from two 
hundred to two hundred and forty days in the yeai, 
and several steamboats arrive and depart daily. It is 
a thorough business city, its chief thoroughfares being 
lined with large and well-built stores and warehouses; 
the movements of the people on the streets indicating 
the hurry and preoccupation of pressing business pur- 
suits. The casual visitor is reminded of Chicago more 
than of any other city of the West. At its back lie the 
grain and lumber-producing regions of Minnesota and 
Wisconsin, which are yearly filling up with an intelli- 
gent and industrious people. Their produce finds an 
outlet at this port, and here they look for a great por- 
tion of their supplies. The retail trade of Saint Paul 
is very large, and it is also in great part the wholesale 
centre of a large circle of smaller towns. 

Its double line of river bank affords ample wharfage. 
It is surrounded by a network of railways, connecting 
it with the large and growing city of Minneapolis, 
and with every town of importance in Minnesota and 
adjoining states. These secure permanence to its 
prosperity, since railroads, even more than rivers, 
make flourishing cities in the present day. 

There are many points of interest around the city. 
On the eastern bank of the river, near the shore, is the 
celebrated Carver's Cave, a romantic opening or aper- 
ture in Dayton Bluff, in the interior of which the 
treaty before referred to was concluded. There is a 
small lake in this cave which may be crossed by a 
boat. Two miles from Saint Paul is Fountain Cave, 
deriving its name from a stream which flows through 

it and which probably was the originating cause of tli8 
13 



IQ2 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

cave. It contains several chambers, some of ample 
dimensions, and, it is said, that at one thousand feet 
from the opening in the rock no termination has yet 
been discovered. The rock is of pure white, soft sand- 
stone, and the entrance to the cave is about fifteen feet 
in width. About three hundred feet in the interior 
from its mouth, a cascade some fifteen feet in height 
falls into tlie stream. This cave is a favorite resort in 
the summer, and presents many features of interest to 
the geologist. 

The Falls of Minnehaha, made famous by Long- 
fellow in his immortal "Song of Hiawatha," are 
reached by a })leasant drive past Fort Snelling. The 
name of these Falls signifies '^ Laughing Water." In 
the words of Longfellow's beautiful description of the 
journey of his hero to the land of the Dakotas, 

•*Till he heard the cataract's laughter, 
Heard the Falls of Minnehaha, 
Calling to him through the silence," 

we have a definition of this poetical name. The 
stream, which is a confluent of the Great River, enters 
a deep ravine by a downright plunge of fifty feet, 
bursting into foam as it descends, and sending up a 
cloud of s )ray from its base. It falls into a large basin 
and thence proceeds quietly forward to its junction 
with the Mississippi. The sheet of water is projected 
over a shelf of rock of a semicircular form, and be° 
neath this shelf pedestrians may pass dryshod. 

White Bear Lake, twelve miles distant from Saint 
Paul, and about an equal distance from Minneapolis, 
is becoming a popular pleasure resort. Located at 
the junction of the Saint Paul and Duluth and the 




f ;:A.-^^..kMkJ^^US^i'^k -^^f^ ^-^^^- ^^ 



FORT SNELLING AND VICINITY. 



TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. 195 

Minneapolis and Saint Louis railways, it is about 
four miles in length ; and nearly midway between its 
eastern and western banks is a long, forest-covered 
islet. The water of the lake is transparently pure and 
of the color of the bright blue sky overhead. The 
largest fleet of sailing yachts to be found on any west- 
ern lake, is seen floating here, many of them costly 
and of elegant construction. Large hotels have been 
erected on the western and southern banks for the 
accommodation of visitors, while picturesque villas dot 
its western shore, owned by wealthy business men of 
Saint Paul and Minneapolis, who send their families 
liere to reside during the summer, and join them each 
evening after the close of business. White Bear is 
the oldest summer resort in the State. Camping-out 
is here reduced to a science, and we find encampmenti^; 
large enough to be called villages, the tents being as 
commodious and comfortably furnished as the parlors 
and bedrooms at home. White Bear is a popular 
place for pic-nics for the surrounding cities, towns, 
villages and farms. In the country around are nu- 
merous smaller lakes, which are sought for fishing 
and duck hunting. 

Bald Eagle Lake lies a mile beyond White Bear. 
It is a lovely sheet of water, but not so large as the 
latter. It has high banks and is full of fish of sev- 
eral varieties. A few pretty cottages have been built 
here, and occupied as summer residences. A mineral 
spring was discovered some years since and a pavilion 
erected over it by the late Dr. Post, of Saint Paul, 
who also built a summer residence near by. The City 
Park is located on the shores of Lake Como, two miles 
from the centre of Saint Paul. 



196 DO WW THE GREAT RIVEE. 

Saint Paul is associated, like Saint Louis, with the 
names of early explorers and navigators of the Missis- 
sippi, although its settlement is comparatively recent. 
Its name was derived from that of a log-chapel dedi- 
cated to the Apostle Paul in 1841, by the Jesuit 
missionaries. Unlike Saint Louis, or New Orleans, 
it has no antiquated streets and perpetuates no French 
or Spanish names. It is intensely American and 
intensely nineteenth century. The population is com- 
posed principally of immigrants or their descendants, 
from the northern and especially the New England 
States, while its foreign element is largely German 
and Scandinavian, which, however, is gradually be^ 
coming Americanized. The children of these foreign 
citizens will be Americans not only in fact, but in 
Reeling and interests. 

The rapid growth of our country is in nothing more 
palpably demonstrated than by the founding and 
development of her cities. Yesterday there was a 
wilderness, uninhabited and almost unexplored. To- 
day, there is a thriving town cherishing great ex- 
pectations, which in most instances are more than 
realized on the morrow. Vast territories, inhabited by 
only a few bands of Indians, have in a single genera- 
tion been converted into populous states ; desert wastes 
have developed, under the intelligent labor of men, a 
wonderful degree of fertility ; and the progress of 
civilization in its western march can be arrested only 
by the waves of the Pacific, which beat upon the rock- 
bound coast of California, Oregon and Washington. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 




Jorty-sktl] Dap. 

Foster House, 
Hastings, Minnesota^ 
September 5, 1881. 

^^JT^^T^ITH the feeling that another week might 
have been profitably spent in and around 
Saint Paul, we shook hands with many 
newly-made friends and again stepped 
into our canoes in front of the Boat-club 
House. A moment later and we were once 
more wending our way upon the broad bosom 
of the Father of Waters, floating and paddling 
towards the Gulf of Mexico. 

Having abandoned my birch canoe. Discovery, at 
Minneapolis, I took for personal use the Alice, which 
had hitherto been in charge of my brother, who had 
now retired from the expedition altogether and was 
acting in the capacity of advance agent in connection 
with my lecture appointments. Paine was assigned 
to the Itasca. Horace Greeley Scott, of Hudson, Wis- 
consin, who had been engaged at Saint Paul as voy- 
ageur, acted as " crew '' of the Alice. 

Our journey from Saint Paul to Hastings was un- 
eventful, except as to the weather, which was decid- 

(197) 



198 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

edly uncomfortable. A drizzling rain set in at an 
early hour in the morning, which increased in strength 
until eleven o^clock, when the water came down in 
torrents, drenching our clothing and making naviga- 
tion anything but agreeable. Nothing but an ap- 
pointment to lecture in the evening could have kept 
me in my canoe under such circumstances. 

At three o'clock in the afternoon we passed what is 
termed the narrowest place in the Mississippi below 
the Falls of Saint Anthony. The river at this point 
is clear of islands and not more than one hundred 
yards wide. Pike states that his men rowed across in 
forty strokes of the oar; another traveler avers that he 
crossed in 1857, from a dead start, in sixteen strokes. 

While passing through this contraction of the river 
it was our good or ill fortune to meet the Gem City, the 
favorite steamer plying between Saint Paul and Saint 
Louis. Our meeting with this boat was the first in- 
stance in which we had encountered any craft of 
respectable dimensions in the descent of the Missis- 
sippi, and we had learned from actual experience that 
it was advisable to exercise some caution when ven- 
turing our canoes near the wake of such vessels as the 
one in question, if we desired to put our voyage on a 
practical basis. It is true we had taken some precau- 
tions ; had paddled in towards the western bank from 
the middle of the stream, where we felt quite secure 
from the swell which would naturally follow the 
movement of so large a body in deep water. The 
waves came as we anticipated, but not so mildly as we 
had predicted ; on the contrary, the first that reached 
us came with a snap and a swash, lifting us high and 
dry upon the beach at least five feet from the water^s 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. ^99 

eflge, precipitating on the beach the contents of the 
canoes, including their ^^ gallant crews." Some con- 
solation was found, however, in the reflection that any 
position on shore was preferable to one at the bottom 
of the river. 

The "commodore" was compelled to bear the en- 
tire responsibility of this "toss up," as the captain of 
the Itasca had suggested paddling against the waves 
as a proper precaution against a capsize. It will be 
sufficient to add that this advice was not unheeded in 
similar cases thereafter. 

With canoes half-full of water and streams of the 
same element running from our clothes, we disem- 
barked at five o'clock at the ferry-landing in front of 
Hastings, where we were met and escorted to the 
Foster House by Irving Todd of the Gazette, Rev. J, 
B. Donaldson, Dr. Reuben Freeman, J. B. Lambert 
and others. Acting u[)on the advice of Mr. Lambert, 
who had been engaged to introduce me, my lecture 
appointment at this place was indefinitely postponed 
in consequence of the storm which raged throughout 
the night. 

The evening was spent most agreeably in the par- 
lors of the Foster House, where a number of the repre- 
sentative men of the city, including several clergymen, 
assembled to listen to whatever I felt inclined to tell 
them of our discovery and adventures at the head- 
waters of the Mississippi. I w^as not favorably im- 
pressed with the business enterprise of Hastings, but 
will always have a pleasant recollection of the hospi- 
tality of its people. The city has a wheat and lum- 
ber market, with four flour-mills, and three saw- 
mills, and a population of about four thousand. 



200 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Saint James Hotel, 
Red Wing, Minnesota, 
September Sixth. 

Eight o'clock found us in our canoes at Hastings. 
The weather indications of the morning were prophetic 
of a pleasant trip to Red Wing; but, alas ! appearances 
were deceitful, as the storm, which had evidently been 
slumbering for a few hours, broke out afresh at ten 
o'clock and kept us company throughout the entire 
day. We attempted a landing at several points above 
the city, but rain, high winds and a swift current 
prevented. 

The mouth of the Saint Croix Kiver was reached 
at ten o'clock. This stream, which enters the Missis- 
sippi three miles below Hastings, forms the boundary 
between Minnesota and Wisconsin. For a consider- 
able distance below the Saint Croix the water of the 
Mississippi, where shoal, is of a reddish appearance, 
but very black in deep water. The red is occasioned 
by the sand seen at the bottom, which is of that color; 
the dark is invariably common to deep water when 
moderately limpid. 

Thoroughly drenched a second time since leaving 
Saint Paul, it was with an exceedingly keen apprecia- 
tion that we received a hearty welcome at the boat- 
house-landing at this place. Our canoes out of the 
water and securely housed, we hastened up to the Saint 
James, where we were quickly shown our rooms and 
glad enough to get into them, and into bed, too, as 
my trunk containing changes, which should have 
preceded us, had not arrived from Hastings, 



SAINT PA UL TO LA CROSSE. 201 

A conference with the lecture committee led to the 
same conclusion we had arrived at in Hastings, that 
with the storm howling without, and the lecturer 
hoi^s de combat, it were better to let the Pioneers of 
the Mississippi 

" Sleep tlie sleep that knows not breaking ; '*' 

hence, the engagement for Red Wing was declared 
cancelled. 

Ijike several other cities in this State, Red Wing has 
a history, and exemplifies how much an intelligent 
and industrious people can accomplish in a very short 
time. The standard of civilization was originally 
planted here by two Swiss missionaries, Denton and 
Garin, who arrived, accompanied by their wives, in 
1838. The savage Dakotas at this date occupied the 
territory, and these brave and self-denying missionaries 
labored among them until the health of Denton failed 
in 1846, when the American Board of Missions ap- 
pointed Rev. Messrs. J. W. Hancock and John Alton, 
of Vermont, to succeed them. Two mission-houses 
were built, one of which remains to this day. Two 
white families and about three hundred Indians were 
at that time — thirty-six years ago — the sole occupants 
of what is now the enterprising little city of Red 
Wing. 

In June, 1852, the Indians entered into a treaty 
with the Government, which authorized the country 
to be occupied by white settlers, but the close of the 
same year saw only about forty white people in the 
village. On the following Christmas Day the entire 
white community dined at the residence of William 
Freeborn, one of the first settlers. The town now 



202 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

commenced to grow and has developed very consider- 
ably up to the present time, the population at this date 
being about ten thousand. Red Wing has the reputa- 
tion of being one of the largest primary wheat markets 
in the country, having handled grain to the amount 
of nearly three million bushels. Some of its manu- 
factures also are acquiring a wide reputation. The 
clay deposits in the neighborhood are said to be among 
the finest and richest in America ; and it is in contem- 
plation to commence the manufacture of glass, as a 
sand of very superior quality abounds here. 

Being only six miles from Lake Pepin, one of the 
finest bodies of water in the West, surrounded by some 
of the most magnificent scenery to be found anywhere 
on the continent. Red Wing will probably in a short 
time become a summer resort ; and at no distant day, 
with its abundance of timber, transportation facilities, 
and productive farming country, may possibly become 
one of the leading cities of Minnesota. Lumber and 
all its products are in a flourishing condition ; laths, 
shingles, sashes, doors and blinds, hubs, spokes, felloes 
and every variety of bent- work being manufactured 
extensively. Boots and shoes, furniture, stoneware, 
boilers and wagons, have also found a solid footing. 
The lime and stone business has developed during the 
past few years into an important industry. Common 
and pressed brick are also extensively made here, and 
have acquired an excellent reputation throughout the 
Northwest. Steam-engines and heavy and light cast- 
ings are manufactured. The city has an excellent fire 
department and water-works; and its public schools 
are said to rank among the best in the State. Red 
Wing is distant from Saint Paul sixty -five miles. 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE, 203 

Jorta-eigljtl) SDag. 

Merchant's Hotel, 

Lake City, Minnesota, 

September Seventh. 

The clouds lifted at sunrise, and in anticipation of a 
pleasant trip through Lake Pepin we took a hurried 
stroll through the leading streets of Red Wing imme- 
diately after breakfast, and an hour later were in our 
canoes on our way down the river. 

A gentle swell followed by a very perceptible buoy- 
ancy of the canoes gave intimation that we were ap- 
proaching a body of water of no mean pretensions. 
For several days we had been cautioned to '^ beware 
of Lake Pepin," and when at last we found ourselves 
gliding smoothly over its placid bosom, we felt that its 
turbulent propensities had been greatly exaggerated. 
It took but a few moments however to reverse the 
scene and convince us that the Fates were not alto- 
gether favorable. A strong southerly wind, again ac- 
companied by rain, made our journey through Lake 
Pepin memorable, if not agreeable. For over ten 
hours the elements held possession and the waves ran 
so high that Paine, who led the way in the ItasGa, was 
frequently out of sight in the troughs, though not 
more than forty yards in advance of the Alice. 

I contemplated a halt at one time, but the rugged and 
precipitous character of the bluffs, which came down to 
the water's edge, would have made a landing extremely 
difficult, if not dangerous; and besides, to be perfectly 
frank, we were engaged upon a voyage from Source 
to Sea, and I, for one, did not feel like taking the re- 
sponsibility of showing the '' white feather.'' Having 



204 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

an engagement to lecture at Lake City, I was com- 
pelled to stick to the canoes, and meet the appointment 
in the usual way, or disembark and go down by rail, 
thus acknowledging, after a three montlis' cruise on the 
Mississippi, that our mode of locomotion was imprac- 
ticable. We, thereforej resolved to remain in the 
canoes if every member of the party went to the bot- 
tom of the lake. 

My new voyageur, Scott, acquitted himself with great 
credit on this occasion, considering the fact that he had 
never been in a canoe before joining us at Saint Paul. 
His complete self-possession and steady nerve had 
much to do with carrying me safely through one of 
the most trying situations I had been called upon to 
master since leaving Lake Winnibegoshish. 

We struck the beach at Frontenac between twelve 
and one o'clock, heartily glad to set our feet again on 
solid earth, and quite willing to let old Pepin lash his 
sides for an hour at least to his heart's content. 

Frontenac is a small hamlet, of perhaps two hun- 
dred souls, standing on the western shore of the lake, 
about ten miles below Red Wing. It is a most ro- 
mantic spot in appearance, and will, I venture to pre- 
dict, at no distant day become a most delightful sum- 
mer resort. Considerable attention has already been 
drawn to it in this particular, and we especially noted 
good hotel accommodations and the presence on its 
white-sand beach of many yachts, skiffs and canoes. 

We were met here by Mr. A. W. Ditmars, of Lake 
City, who came up to confer with me concerning my 
lecture appointment at this place. After dining with 
us at the hotel, he suggested that I should have the 
pleasure of meeting General Israel Garrard. We 



SAINT PA UL TO LA CROSSE. ' 207 

walked up to the generaFs residence on the bluff, 
where I was introduced and spent an hour most agree- 
ably. General Garrard is a gentleman of leisure and 
culture, and possesses a fund of information concern- 
ing the legendary history of Lake Pepin which is ot 
absorbing interest to those who desire to preserve 
records of aboriginal times. 

It was hoped, when we disembarked, that the lake 
would calm before we returned to our canoes, but in 
this we were destined to disappointment, for on reach- 
ing the beach we found the wind still piling up the 
waves to a threatening height and making the outlook 
for our little flotilla anything but inviting. General 
Garrard and Mr. Ditmars said, " if you value your 
lives, don't launch those canoes on Lake Pepin to-day .'' 
Many others on the shore echoed the same sentiment. 
Still determined, however, to go down to Lake City in 
our staunch little crafts, Paine stepped promptly into 
the Itasca, while Scott and myself pulled out in the 
Aliee. 

Running out into the lake we soon rounded the sand- 
bar which lies directly in front of Frontenac and headed 
down stream. We hugged the western bank as closely 
as possible, seeking the protection of the friendly bluffs 
against the violent wind, which now came sweeping 
across the lake from a south-westerly quarter. 

Three miles below Frontenac we descried the cele- 
brated Maiden Rock, which rises to a height of nearly 
five hundred feet on the eastern shore. The upper two 
hundred feet are formed by a perpendicular bluff, and 
the lower three hundred constitute a very abrupt and 
precipitous slope which extends from the base of the 

bluff to the edge of the water. This forms a point, 
14 



208 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

projecting into the lake and bounded by two small 
basins, each of which is the estuary of a brook. The 
wildness of the scenery is such that even the voyager 
who has gazed wdth delight upon the majestic bluffs 
of the Mississippi is forcibly impressed with the 
grandeur of this spot. There was much in it that we 
had not met with at any other point of the far-stretch- 
ing Valley of the Mississippi, a high-projecting point, 
a precipitous crag resting upon a steep bank whose 
base is washed by a wide expanse of water, which con- 
trasts strikingly with the savage outlines of the land- 
scape. But Maiden Rock receives additional interest 
from the melancholy tale which is connected with its 
history and which casts a deep gloom over its 
brightest feature. 

There was a time, so the legend runs, when this now 
desolate spot was the scene of a most tragic event. 
In the Indian village of Keoxa, in the tribe of Wa- 
pasha, there lived a young Indian maiden, whose 
name was Winona, which signifies the "first-born." 
She had formed an attachment for a young hunter of 
the tribe, who returned her affection. They had fre- 
quently met and agreed to become united in marriage, 
but on applying to her parents, the young hunter was 
rejected, and inforniied that a warrior of distinction 
had sued for their daughter and their consent had been 
given. The warrior was a favorite with the tribe, and 
had acquired great popularity from his services to the 
village against the Chippewas. Winona, however, 
remained faithful to her lover, notwithstanding his 
rival's efforts to supplant him and the countenance he 
received from her parents and brothers. To them she, 
replied that she had made choice of a man w4io, being 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 209 

a hunter, would remain with her and secure her sub- 
sistence and comfort ; while the warrior would be fre- 
quently absent, intent upon martial exploits. Winona's 
reasoning and earnest entreaties, however, were in vain, 
and her parents at length drove away her lover, and 
commenced harsh measures in order to compel her to 
marry the warrior. She begged them to allow her to 
live a single life, but to all her entreaties they turned 
a deaf ear. Winona had hitherto enjoyed a great share 
in the aiFections of her family, and had been indulged 
more than is usual with females among Indians. Her 
affectionate disposition had made her a favorite with 
her brothers, and they endeavored to influence their 
parents to use persuasive means to accomplish their 
wishes, in preference to compelling her to the union 
against her inclination. To remove some of her ob- 
jections to the warrior, they undertook, themselves, to 
provide for her future maintenance, and accordingly 
presented to her suitor many articles that an Indian 
might desire to possess, as a propitiatory offering in 
behalf of their sister. About this time a party was 
formed in the village to ascend the river to Lake 
Pepin, in order to procure a supply of the blue clay 
which is found upon its banks at a certain spot, and 
which was used by the Indians to make paint. Winona 
and some of her friends were of the party, and it was 
on this day that her brothers had offered their presents 
to the warrior. Thus encouraged, he again addressed 
the young girl, but with the same ill success. She 
refused to be united to him, and would remain single 
all her life. Her parents again remonstrated in strong 
language, and threatened to eompel her to obedience. 
Winona, with tears, replied : ''You will drive me to de- 



210 DOWN Tit A' GREAT RIVER, 

spair ; I have said I love him not ; I cannot live with 
him; I wish to remain a maiden. You say you love 
me, that you are my father, my mother, ray brothers, 
my relations ; yet you have cruelly parted me from the 
only man with whom I wish to be united ; you have 
compelled him to leave the village ; alone he now wan- 
ders through the forest, with no one to assist him, 
none to spread his blanket, none to build his lodge, 
none to wait on him ; yet he was the man of my choice. 
Is this your love for me? But even this is not enough : 
you would have me rejoice in his absence ; you wnsh 
me to unite with another man, one whom I do not and 
cannot love, and with whom I never can be happy. 
If this is your love for me, I will say no more; but 
soon you will have no daughter nor sister to torment 
with your false love." She then withdrew; but her 
parents, still heedless of her words, decided that 
Winona should be united with the warrior that very 
day. While they and their friends were engaged in 
preparations for the festival, Winona wound her way 
slowly io the top of the high rock — since named 
Maiden Rock. On reaching the summit she called 
loudly to her friends below, and upbraided them for 
their cruelty to herself and her lover. "You were 
not satisfied," she exclaimed, " with refusing my union 
with the man I had chosen, but you tried to make me 
faithless to him, and when you found me resolved 
upon remaining a maiden, you threatened to compel 
me to marry another. You knew me not. You will 
see how I will defeat your designs." She then com- 
menced to sing her dirge; the light wind wafted the 
words of her doleful song to her family and friends ; 
they rushed, some of them, to the top of the rock to 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 211 

stop her; others to the foot to receive her in their 
arms, while all, with tears, entreated her to desist from 
her fatal purpose ; her father promising that no com- 
pulsion should again be resorted to. But Winona's 
resolution was taken, and, concluding her song, she at 
once leaped from the precipice, and fell a lifeless corpse 
at the feet of her parents and brothers. 

This legend has given the rock its name. The fate 
of this young maiden has many parallels among the 
Indians, who are not all proof against the finest feel- 
ings of our nature, whatever may be thought by some 
to the contrary. 

Lake Pepin was discovered by Father Hennepin in 
April, 1680, who says of it : "About thirty Leagues 
above Black River we found the Lake of Tears, which 
we named so because the Savages who took us, as it 
will be hereafter related, consulted in this Place what 
they should do with their Prisoners ; and those who 
were for murthering us cried all the Night upon us, to 
oblige by their Tears their Companions to consent to 
our Death. This Lake is formed by the Meschasii)i, 
and may be seven Leagues long and five broad. Its 
Waters are almost standing, the Stream being hardly 
perceptible in the Middle." The name which the lake 
now bears is evidently of French origin, but I have 
not been able to ascertain who applied it, or what cir- 
cumstances suggested its adoption. 

Progress through the lake was painfully slow, and 
although we came in sight of this place at four o'clock, 
and were within two miles of its landing at five, the 
wind and waves beat so persistently against our bows 
that we did not reach port until after sunset. Despite 
the rain, however, which was still falling, a large con- 
12 



212 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

course of citizens had gathered on the beach to see us 
disembark and to welcome us to Lake City. A brass 
band was in attendance and discoursed a few lively 
airs, making us quite forget for a few moments that 
our clothing was thoroughly drenched from head to 
foot. 

Lake City belongs to that class of magic cities of the 
West which, under favorable circumstances, leap into 
existence and develop so rapidly as to far exceed the 
brightest anticipations of their founders. Beautifully 
located on the western shore of Pepin, enjoying excel- 
lent rail and water communications with all points up 
and down the river, it is destined to sustain the 
prominence it has gained on the Upper Mississippi. 

ibrt^-nmtl) JDag. 

National Hotel, 

Minneiska, Minnesota, 

September Eighth. 

Weather in the morning fair and calm. We re- 
sumed our journey through the lake at eight o'clock, 
and glided along with great ease until within three 
miles of its southern extremity, when a violent wind- 
storm from the northward bore down upon us, and 
for a time kept us hard at work with our paddles to 
prevent the swamping of the canoes. Our observations 
on Lake Pepin led us to conclude that the slighest 
breath of wind will produce a heavy swell, and from 
this circuijstance it is the custom of voyagers on the 
river to pass through the lake, if possible, at night; 
experience having taught them that it is generally 
calmer then than during the day. It is twenty-one 
miles long, and its breadth, which varies from one to 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 215 

three miles, may be averaged at about two and a half. 
Towards its outlet the valley widens considerably, 
owing to the entrance of the Chippewa Eiver. This 
river is five hundred yards wide at its mouth, and is 
navigable at all seasons of the year for fifty miles, and 
in time of freshets boats can proceed much further np„ 
The general direction of the lake is from west-north- 
west to east-south-east. The scenery along its shores 
contrasts strongly with that of the river. Instead of 
the rapid current of the Mississippi, winding around 
numberless islands, some of which display well wooded 
surfaces, while others are mere sand-bars, the lake, 
when calm, presents a smooth and sluggish expanse 
of water, unrelieved by a single island; nothing limits 
the view but the towering bluffs which enclose it; 
these extend in a more regular manner, and with 
a more uniform elevation than those along the 



river. 



We halted for a few moments at Wabasha, a small 
town on the right bank, twelve miles below Lake 
City, having a population of between two and three 
thousand. After a stroll through its leading streets 
we returned to the landing and re-embarked. 

Alma, Wisconsin, on the left bank, nine miles below 
Wabasha, was reached in season for dinner. Although 
we began the descent of the Mississippi on th^ twenty- 
second of July and had floated and paddled down up- 
wards of twelve hundred miles of its course, we had 
not until now eaten a meal outside of Minnesota. 
This State may well be proud of her relation to the 
Mighty River, for she has more than one-third of its 
entire length within her borders. 

Minneiska, being in a bend of the river, was seen 



216 DOWN THE GREAT lilVER. 

directly in our front, just as the sun was sinking be- 
hind the horizon. The river, the town, the towering 
bluiFs, the gorgeous sky, and the glimmering rays of 
the sun, as it gradually disappeared from view, pre- 
sented a scene worthy the painter's most skilful art 
and one not readily effaced from the memory of the 
observer. Aside from its poetic uame and natural 
attractions, very little can be said of Minneiska. It 
might be inferred, from its present appearance as seen 
from the river, that a cyclone had struck it many years 
ago and that its days of prosperity were long since 
numbered. A stroll through the streets after supper 
developed nothing to lead us to a more favorable im- 
pression. 

liftietl] ?Daa. 

Private Residence, 

Wi nona, Minnesota, 

September Ninth. 

Our journey from Minneiska to Winona was heartily 
enjoyed ; the most enchanting scenery, and not a 
breath of wind nor a ripple to disturb the even tenor 
of our way. Halted for luncheon at a village on the 
east bank delighting in the na;me of Fountain City. 

When within two miles of Winona we were met by 
several canoes and skiffs, bearing representatives of the 
local press and others who seemed much interested in 
our voyFtge and its objects. Our arrival at this place 
was made exceedingly pleasant by the numerous and 
flattering courtesies of the citizens. We noted at the 
landing the national colors, while the greetings were 
most cordial. A carriage was waiting to convey us to 
a private residence where we were entertained as guests 
during our stay in Winona. Lectured in the evening 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 217 

in the session -room of the Normal School in accordance 
with a previous appointment. Was introduced by 
Captain O. B. Gould, a prominent attorney and one of 
the trustees of the school. 

The location and surroundings of this city, distant 
ninety-six miles south-east of Saint Paul by rail, are 
extremely picturesque. Standing on a plateau nine 
miles long by three broad, on the west bank of the 
river, it is environed by lofty bluffs, the surfaces of 
which, in some cases from summit to base, appear of a 
velvety smoothness that has more the semblance of art 
than of nature. The city is laid out with the utmost 
regularity, the streets wide and mostly at right angles ; 
and the business blocks, compactly built of brick and 
stone, are generally of a very substantial character. 
Many of the private residences are elegantly designed, 
and show indications of wealth. The whole appear- 
ance of the place betokens business activity and pros- 
perity. The inhabitants number at present about fif- 
teen thousand, and it is thus the third city in population 
in the State, and claims to be the third in commercial 
importance. It is the river outlet for a large portion 
of Minnesota and Wisconsin. The Chicago, Milwau- 
kee and Saint Paul ; the Green Bay, Winona and Saint 
Paul, and other branch-lines of railway, have their 
stations and termini here. Winona is the fourth pri- 
mary grain market in the United States. Fifteen 
churches, of all denominations, attest the moral and 
religious status of the citizens. Here, also, are a good 
public library, the first State normal school, a high 
school, four banks, and one daily and four weekly 
newspapers. The city is one of the most important 
lumber-distributing points on the Upper Mississippi. 



218 DOWN^ THE GREAT BIVEM, 

Two grain elevators, seven flour-mills, three large 
saw-mills, six carriage and wagon manufactories, and 
several other manufacturing establishments show the 
extent to which the capital and industry of Winona 
have been developed in a few years by its enterprising 
inhabitants. 

Jifta-first JDag. 

Melchior House, 

Trempealeau, Wisconsirtf 
September Tenth. 

There was so much of interest to be seen in and 
around Winona, that we did not re-embark until three 
o'clock in the afternoon. On stepping into our canoes 
it was remarked that the outlook was not so favorable 
as on the morning of the previous day, when we em- 
barked at Minneiska. A slight breeze from a south- 
erly quarter paid its respects as we pulled out from the 
shore. A few moments later ugly-looking clouds were 
observed, portending something of an unusual char- 
acter. Still we kept on, unmindful of the threatening 
aspect of the sky, until we reached an expansion of the 
river about three miles below Winona, when, sud- 
denly, the wind shifted to the westward and swept 
across the stream with great violence. In less than 
five minutes we found ourselves at the mercy of a tur- 
bulent sea — the surface covered with white caps, and 
our frail barks dashing hither and thither, quite be- 
yond the control of the paddles; now riding on the 
topmost wave, and again sinking in the troughs which 
were seen on every hand. 

Scott having retired from the expedition at Winona, 
my brother took his place as pilot and was now with 
Die in the Alice. Naturally possessed of an excitable 



SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 219 

temperament and being only an amateur canoeist, like 
myself, his assistance was of little avail on this occa- 
sion. The canoes were soon filled with water and 
nothing but the light and buoyant material of which 
they were constructed prevented their sinking. Like 
Richard III., we would have been glad to exchange 
our kingdom — not for a horse — but for the air-tight 
compartments of our canoes which had been cast aside 
at Aitkin a? an unnecessary encumbrance. 

In an attempt to reach the western bank we were 
caught by wind and wave and driven to the opposite 
or lee shore, where we were beset with snags, sawyers 
and driftwood, thus making a landing impracticable. 
A few moments later the wind subsided, the water 
again became calm, and our first and only squall on 
the Mississippi was numbered among the things of the 
past. 

We disembarked at Trempealeau a little before sun- 
set, and were pleasantly domiciled at the Melchior 
House. After tea we were most agreeably entertained 
in the parlors of the hotel by the family and friends of 
our hostess. George and Paine were especially zealous 
in their attentions to the young ladies and, notwith- 
standing the dilapidated appearance of Trempealeau, 
voted it among the most delightful places on th« 
Upper Mississippi. 




CHAPTER Xyill. 

THREE DAYS AT LACROSSE. 

TVip from Trempealeau — La Crosse and Surrcnindings. 

REAKFAST over at Trempealeau, we took 
a hurried walk through its rickety streets 
and glanced at the relics of its former 
prosperity. Paine suggested that it would 
make an appropriate finis to a volume of 
'hich Minneiska might fittingly form the preface. 
Resumed our journey at ten o'clock after ex- 
changing adieux with the Melchiors, who had 
?ome down to the landing to witness the launch of our 
canoes and to leave with us their best wishes for a safe 
and pleasant voyage to the Gulf 

Nothing could be more delightful than our trip 
from Trempealeau to La Crosse. A clear sky, a genial 
atmosphere, and a strong current, made navigation a 
pleasure rather than a burden, as had been the case on 
many preceding days. Everything now appeared 
different. Even the face of nature seemed changed. 
In place of the majestic bluffs, the banks here sloped 
gradually down to the water's edge, covered with va- 
rious trees enriched by the variegated hues of autumn. 
(220) 



THREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. 221 

So pleasantly had the time passed that it was with 
something of surprise we discerned at one o'clock 
the church spires of La Crosse. Half an hour later our 
canoes touched the boat-house landing and we were 
soon registered and assigned to rooms at the Commer- 
cial Hotel. 

Among the first to greet us at the " Commercial " was 
Mr. Pearce Giles, of Philadelphia, an old acquaintance 
and friend, who had assisted in the organization of my 
expedition at Saint Paul, before starting for the head 
waters of the Mississippi, and who was now sojourning 
for a few days at La Crosse. 

The name of this ambitious young city is said to be 
derived from the invigorating game of " La Crosse," 
the favorite sport of the Indians on the level prairie 
upon which the city now stands. To indulge in their 
athletic matches, it is recorded that they assembled 
here in large numbers annually — the plain being con- 
veniently adapted for the purpose— and the first white 
settler, Nathan Myrick, became so enthusiastic an ad- 
mirer of the exciting game, that he named the spot on 
which his solitary cabin was built. La Crosse, and 
hence the name of the Indian sport is perpetuated in 
that of the city. 

La Crosse claims, and with good grace, to be the 
second city in commercial and manufacturing impor- 
tance in the State of Wisconsin — Milwaukee, of course, 
ranking first. The prairie land on which it is built is 
seven miles in length by two and a half in breadth, on 
the east bank of the Mississippi River. The distance 
below Saint Paul is one hundred and ninety -seven miles. 
By railway. La Crosse is only one hundred and twenty- 
nine miles from the latter city, and one hundred and 



222 DOnW THE GREAT RIVER, 

ninety-six from Milwaukee. The Black and La 
Crosse rivers fall into the Mississippi at this point, 
the former a most important lumbering stream. The 
growth and development of La Crosse, in a very few 
years, are in truth no less amazing than creditable to 
its enterprising pioneers and citizens. The first settler. 
My rick, landed here in November, 1841, less tlian fifty 
years ago, with a boat-load of goods and notions from 
Prairie du Chien, and his laudable enterprise was to 
trade the contents of his boat with the red men for 
their furs. In the course of ten years My rick's In- 
dian trading-post had invited other settlers to it, and it 
became an incorporated town. In five years more, 
1856, the town had attained sufficient size and impor- 
tance to be made a city. To-day it has a population 
of over twenty thousand of as live, go-ahead citizens as 
are to be found in the valley of the Great River. The 
geographical location of this city is doubtless one of the 
secrets of its rapid progress and present flourishing con- 
dition. The products of one of the finest agricultural 
states in the Union, together with the vast supplies 
coming in from Minnesota and Northern Iowa, give 
to La Crosse immense advantages, occupying as it does, 
a commanding position on the river for attracting com- 
mercial relations by virtue of its great facilities of 
transportation. Besides numerous lines of railway 
centring here, the city has access to that grand high- 
way, the Mississippi and its tributaries, embracing 
over sixteen thousand miles of navigable rivers. A 
stretch of over two thousand miles of water-way from 
Saint Anthony's Falls to the Gulf of Mexico, affords 
the cheapest kind of transportation, of the benefits of 
which La Crosse avails itself to a very large extent, 



THREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. 223 

and hence, mainly, its growth in population and in 
wealth. 

The commerce and manufactures of a city depend 
largely upon the resources of the State in which it is 
situated. Wisconsin is one of the richest agricultural 
states in America. It is larger than the states of New 
York, Connecticut and Rhode Island combined, and 
in fertility of soil surpasses them. A considerable 
percentage of the wheat crop of the United States is 
grown in this province. Its immense cornfields, com- 
prising several million acres, are another source of 
wealth. The hay-producing area is about twice as 
large as the State of Iowa, and timber of the most 
valuable manufacturing descriptions is plentiful in the 
northern part of the State. Twenty million pounds of 
butter and fifteen million pounds of cheese are annually 
manufactured in Wisconsin, much of which is shipped 
to eastern markets and from them reshipped to the 
markets of the civilized world. The soil and climate 
of this State are especially adapted to the growth of 
potatoes, one of the most profitable crops raised in the 
country. The growth of flax is another leading in- 
dustry of the State of Wisconsin, the yield being over 
twenty million pounds a year. Thus, in agricultural 
resources the " Badger " State possesses every advan- 
tage necessary for developing great commercial and 
manufacturing cities, and the favorable position of 
La Crosse eminently fits it for reaping the full bene- 
fit of the conditions provided by generous Nature. 

La Crosse is a port of entry and ranks third on the 

Mississippi River, being exceeded in the number 

of vessels enrolled only by New Orleans and Saint 

Louis. The wholesale trade of La Crosse is in a 
15 



224 DOWN THE GRuAT RIVER. 

flourishing condition and includes large receipts and 
shipments of grain and immense supplies of lumber. 
Hardware, boots and shoes, clothing, furniture and 
other necessaries of life are now also staples of the 
wholesale trade. In fact, from all we could learn 
from inquiry on the spot, the commerce of La Crosse is 
rapidly growing under the skilful management of its 
enterprising merchants, its annual transactions reach- 
ing about five million dollars. The retail trade is in a 
no less satisfactory condition, and the growth of this 
city in population and wealth is a subject of remark 
by all occasional visitors. 

The manufactures of La Crosse are pointed to with 
justifiable pride by its citizens and promise great 
things in the near future. The wool manufactories 
are thirteen in number and of an extensive character. 
Iron manufactories, foundries and machine-shops jre 
numerous, and the out-put of this class of industries is 
of the most varied description. Engines and boilers 
of every size are built here, and architectural iron prod- 
ucts and stoves of all kinds are produced in great 
abundance, thus illustrating the genius, skill and 
enterprise embarked in the iron business in this busy 
city. The forests of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minne- 
sota are practically inexhaustible, and it is claimed that 
no city in the Northwest is more advantageously 
situated in regard to lumber resources than La Crosse. 
Its position is such as to enable it to draw upon any 
source of supply through the far-reaching Mississippi 
Kiver and its tributaries. The mills of La Crosse 
have a combined capacity of two hundred million feet, 
and consume, distribute and export not less than five 
hundred million feet of lumber annually. The aggre- 



THREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. 225 

ga^ wealth contributed to the city by lumber alone 
amounts to many millions of dollars per year. 

The rapid development of the Northwest has largely 
increased the growth and importance of La Crosse 
within the past few years, and has assured its future 
as a commercial and manufacturing centre. It has 
become the base of supply for an extensive range of 
territory in the matter of lumber, and in everything 
that contributes to the growth of a city is annually 
making gains. It will afford some idea of the dimen- 
sions of the city to say that it has about thirty miles 
of graded streets, and^forty-five miles of sidewalks. 
The fire department and the police force rank at a 
high standard of efficiency. Electric light for the 
streets and stores is furnished by the Brush Electric 
Light Company, which has erected four towers, each 
one hundred and fifty feet high, and nine masts, and 
the streets at night are consequently well illuminated. 
The public schools are eleven in number in addition 
to the High School, erected in 1878, at a cost of twenty- 
six thousand dollars. Two English, one Gertnan and 
two Norwegian newspapers keep the citizens posted 
in State and national politics and the general news of 
the locality. Twenty-five churches administer to the 
religious requirements of the various denominations 
and nationalities, some of them iiandsome specimens 
of church architecture. The Public Library contains 
about eight thousand volumes adapted to the mixed 
population. La Crosse, in shor^, is a rapidly improv- 
ing city, and we think is destined to become in a few 
years prominent in population and wealth, and an 
important factor in the commerce and manufactures of 
the Nation. 



CHAPTER XIX. 




LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 

liftS'-ftftf) ?I)aa. 

Victory House, 

Victory , WisconsiUf 

September 14, 1881. 

'HILE at La Crosse it was decided that 
our little party should be reduced to a 
more economical basis, inasmuch as there 
was little of an exploratory character on 
the Lower Mississippi, and since the duties 
devolving upon voyageurs in a wild country 
'^ could now be readily dispensed with. Acting 
upon this decision, Paine rather reluctantly sur- 
rendered his commission as captain of the Itascw^ and 
joined me in the Alice. The city press having an- 
nounced the hour of our departure, many citizens 
had assembled at the landing to witness the launch, 
which was made at eight o'clock, my friend, Pearce 
Giles, giving us the "send-off.'' 

It was proposed, on setting out in the morning, to 
make De Soto the evening destination, but a heavy 
thunder-storm, which had been gathering throughout 
the afternoon, burst at five o'clock and drove us ashore 

* This canoe was subsequently ordered to Saint Louis and pre- 
sented to the Missouri Historical Society. 
(226) 



LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 227 

at Victory. This remnant of by -gone days might very 
appropriately be classed with the Alma, Minneiska, 
Trempealeau series, which, but for the circumstance 
that it stands upon the banks of the Father of Waters, 
would be a poor "Victory" indeed. One of the 
shining lights of this place, happening to overhear a 
conversation between Paine and myself, concerning 
the town of De Soto, situated on the river five miles 
below, ventured to inquire if in our opinion the "De 
Sota '^ after whom the town was called, was anv 
relation of " Minnie Sota," the girl after whom he 
understood the adjoining State was named ! 

Nothing of an unusual character in the scenery or of 
especial interest as to incident was noted in the journey 
from La Crosse to Victory. A halt was made at one 
o'clock for dinner, which we had at a farm-house on 
the right bank, near the boundary line between Min- 
nesota and Iowa. This was our last meal in the for- 
mer State. 

Tremont House. 

Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, 
September Fifteenth. 

On retiring to our rooms the previous evening, it 
was the intention to get into our canoes at seven 
o'clock in the morning, but we were detained at Victory 
by rain until after eight, when, taking advanta2:e of 
a lull in the storm, we pushed off, finding a brisk 
current, wind down stream and everything favorable 
until we reached Lansing, when more rain fell, and 
continued to fall throughout the day. Stopped 
at a farm-house on the Iowa side for dinner, our 



228 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

first meal in the Prairie State. Made short halts at 
De Soto, Lansing, and Harpers. 

Wind, rain, a swollen stream and approaching 
darkness rendered our landing at Prairie du Chien 
both difficult and dano;erous. We were cautioned bv 
persons on the shore not to attempt to pass under the 
low pontoon-like railway bridge which crosses the 
river at this point, but the warning came too late, as 
the brisk current and suction of the bridge trellis-work 
had placed the canoe beyond our control, and we 
were unable to do more than guide it through the 
network of huge posts which constitute its foundation 
and support. We succeeded ultimately in getting out 
of the trap in which we temporarily found ourselves, 
much to our own relief and the apparent gratification of 
the anxious spectators on the shore. 

On the seventeenth of June, 1673, Marquette and 
Joliet, the former a Jesuit missionary, reached the junc- 
tion of the Wisconsin with the Mississippi, a little above 
which,Prairie du Chien stands to-day. Seven years later, 
in 1680, Father Hennepin and M. Dugay explored the 
Mississippi from the mouth of the Illinois northward, 
and on ascending and descending the river passed 
the site of the present town. Hennepin claimed at 
this time to have reached the head-waters of the Missis- 
sippi, and also to have explored it to its mouth, but 
his narrative bears evidence of great exaggeration, and 
procured for him, with the French, the title of " the 
great falsifier." Yet his achievement was a splendid 
one, with which he might well have been satisfied. 
He passed twice the entire distance between the Falls 
of Saint Anthony and the mouth of the Arkansas, in 
all nearly three thousand miles, which voyage having 



LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 229 

been accomplished in a canoe on aa unknown and 
treacherous river, flowing through an unexplored wil- 
derness, was truly something to be proud of. 

There is a tolerably well authenticated tradition that 
Jesuit missionaries had visited the country during the 
twenty years previous to Marquette's expedition, and 
had established a number of missions among the 
Indians of the Mississippi Valley. At an early day a 
Jesuit mission was established on the present site of 
Prairie du Chien, and later it became a French trad- 
ing-post. But Prairie du Chien and the surrounding 
country have an unwritten history extending back into 
the remote past, only a few traces of which still 
remain. Before the invasion of the white race it was 
the home of the Kickapoos and other tribes of Indians. 
Going back still farther into the dim past, the unknown 
race designated as Mound-Builders seem to have made 
this a favorite locality. In Crawford County, more 
than in any other part of Wisconsin, are found traces of 
their work. The antiquity of these mounds is un- 
doubtedly remote, for frequently what is known as the 
" virgin forest " is found growing upon them. 

The mounds found in Crawford County are of vari- 
ous forms and sizes. One of the largest and highest 
existed at Prairie du Chien, and was leveled in order to 
furnish a site for Fort Crawford. It was about twenty 
feet in height, with a base of two hundred feet. An- 
other mound of similar form and dimensions stood 
within the old fort of which Crawford was the successor. 
The circular form is the most common of these tumuli, 
though there are many of different shapes. Some are 
built like walls or breastworks, with open spaces like 
gates. Others take the form of a serpent; still others 



230 DOWN THE GREAT BIVEB. 

that of a bird or beast ; while some few mounds resem- 
ble a man lying on his face. These latter are from 
three to four feet high. On the shores of the Missis- 
sippi and Wisconsin, on the beach lands and highest 
peaks of the bluffs, these mounds are, or rather were, 
very numerous, and easily discernible from the river. 

Some of the mounds of Prairie du Chien present a 
different soil from that on which they are built, none 
like it having been discovered within several miles, 
thus indicating that the soil must have been brought 
from a considerable distance. In no instance is there 
the appearance of the earth of which they are com- 
posed having been dug from the side of, or even near 
them. Sometimes the spot on which the mound 
stands has a natural elevation. One such, on the 
south-west angle of Prairie du Chien, is itself about 
ten feet high, while the hillock which it occupies 
gives it the appearance of being at least twice that 
height. From the top of this mound an extensive 
view may be obtained of the low bottom-lands and 
lakes which lie between the channels of the Wisconsin 
and Mississippi rivers, giving it the appearance of 
having been a watch-tower. It is scarcely probable, 
however, that they were all military defences. The 
supposition is more plausible that many of them were 
religious symbols, the mounds serving, perhaps, as 
altars. There is no positive evidence that they Svere 
built as tombs for the dead; for, though human re- 
mains have been found in some of them, these remains 
may have been deposited at later periods, and others 
have not contained any. 

But the mounds are fast disappearing before the 
march of civilization. A utilitarian age and people 



LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE, 231 

are demolishing tlieni with the plow, the pick and the 
spade, and already a majority have disappeared. The 
antiquarian of the future will sigh in vain for these 
sole relics of an unknown and a mysterious people. 
However, in some few instances, they are being pre- 
served with that care to which their antiquity entitles 
them. 

Prairie du Chien, the county-seat of Crawford 
County, is situated on the eastern bank of the Missis- 
sippi, on a level plain or prairie about nine miles long 
and between one and two miles wide. This prairie 
is bounded on the east by high, rocky bluffs, with 
scattered clumps of trees, while its western border is 
washed by the Mississippi. Its name was derived 
from that of an Indian chief who once resided there, 
known as Le Chien, or The Dog ; hence Prairie du 
Chien, or The Dog Prairie. It was one of tlie oldest 
of the French trading-posts, but the first permanent 
settlement was located there in 1783. Gautier de 
Vorville, Michael Brisbois, and Captain Fisher were 
among the traders late in the last and early in the 
present century, and all of them have left descendants. 
Fisher was of Scotch origin, and carried on an exten- 
sive trade with the Indians. In 1815 he emigrated to 
more remote regions on the Red Piver of the North, 
but died in Prairie du Chien in 1827. 

In 1814, the British sent a party of Indians, com- 
posed of Sioux, Menomonies, and Winnebagos, under 
the command of Lieutenant-Colonel William McKay, 
to capture Prairie du Chien from the Americans. 
After a four days' siege the fort surrendered, and tlie 
report of a great victory was carried by Captain 
Rolette to Mackinaw. Large numbers thronged the 



232 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

shores and inquired of tlie captain the news. " A 
great battle — a sanguinary contest/^ responded Rolette, 
with an air of great solemnity and importance. ^' How 
many were killed?" "None." "What a bloody 
contest ! " vociferated the crowd, as they escorted the 
hero from the boat to the garrison. The following year, 
at the conclusion of peace, the post was evacuated. 

Crawford County was established in 1818, while the 
country was still embraced in the territory of Michigan. 
At that early period it extended from the Wisconsin 
River on the south to the Buffalo River on the north, 
comprising an area now divided into ten or more 
counties. 

Like many of its neighbors up and down the river, 
Prairie du Chien had great expectations in its youth. 
It was confident of becoming the chief town of the 
Mississippi. It is situated five hundred and forty miles 
north of Saint Louis, in the midst of a productive agri- 
cultural and mineral region. But though one or more 
railroads touch it, the great through-lines of the con- 
tinent passed it by ; and for that, and other reasons, 
more or less difficult of explanation, but which act as a 
sort of Providence in shaping the ends of rough- 
hewn cities, it remains scarcely more than a town, hav- 
ing but about three thousand inhabitants. It is, 
however, an important local shipping-post, and has a 
number of manufactories. Saint John's College and 
Saint Mary's Female Institute are located here, under 
control of the Catholic Church. 

Just above Prairie du Chien is the site of Fort 
Crawford, near the town of Saint Fiolle, which in 1846 
was the larger of the two, but which has now altogether 
disappeared from the map. Prairie du Chien is a pretty 



LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 233 

town, being well built, with wide streets and an 
abundance of shade ; and there is an air of thrift and 
enterprise about its inhabitants which impress the 
stranger. As in most other towns of the Upper Missis- 
sippi, its people are made up largely of New Eng- 
landers and New Yorkers ; and wherever they are 
found, prosperity is sure to follow in their track. 
Thus, though Prairie du Chien will probably never 
become a large city, it will hold its own among the 
neighboring towns and cities up and down the river, 
and obtain a due share of the influx of immigration 
into this section of the country. 

Jtft2-0n)entl) IDaj). 

Jefferson Hotel, 

Guttenb er g, Iowa, 
Sept. Sixteenth. 

Lecture appointments at Davenport and other points 
below Dubuque made it imperative that we should 
launch our canoe at a seasonable hour in the morning, 
though much against inclination, for the storm which 
opened the day before was still in progress. Halted 
a few moments at McGregor, and took dinner at the 
Mississippi House, Clayton, both of which towns are 
in Iowa. A glance through their streets reminded us 
very forcibly of the "waning glory "of Minneiska, 
Trempealeau and Victory. 

Finding the wind from the westward we kept close 
to the Iowa shore all day. Reached Guttenberg at 
five o'clock and housed our canoe in the Diamond Jo 
freight-house. Our clothing was again thoroughly 
soaked and no changes at hand. 

Guttenberg, the county -seat of Clayton County, 



234 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Iowa, is twenty-six miles below Prairie du Chien, and 
two hundred and eighty-one south of Saint Paul. It 
is the largest town in the county and the river- 
landing for an extensive section of country. It has 
a population of about fifteen hundred — nearly all 
Germans. 

The traveler who seeks to penetrate the region west 
of Guttenberg will first encounter nature in its rough 
and primitive majesty. He ascends a gigantic bluff, 
step by step, until he attains a mountain elevation. 
Then, at his feet, he beholds the Mississippi, dotted 
with lovely islands and sparkling in the sunlight as it 
rolls its flood of waters toward the sea. Before him 
spreads the forest as it appeared a hundred years ago, 
beautiful in its grandeur. He journeys through it, and 
his eyes are greeted by smiling farms as he looks west- 
ward from the hill-tops. The country grows less 
rugged as he advances, until, five miles from Gutten- 
berg, he enters a rolling prairie, extending far and 
wide on either hand, to within three miles of Elkader. 
This prairie is one of the largest in the State, and is 
broken into every variety of hill and dale. It is 
covered with farms, most of them under the very 
highest state of cultivation. 

lifta-eigl)!!) SDag. 

Pacific House, 

Dubuque, Iowa, 

Sept. Seventeenth. 

We paddled away from Guttenberg at eight o'clock 
in the morning. Weather still unsettled and in keep- 
ing with that which followed the launching of our 
canoes at Saint Paul, with the exception of two or 



LA CROSSE TO JJuBUQUE. 235 

three days. We learned from river-men that these 
September rains are a well-known characteristic of 
the Upper Mississippi, and are looked for annually. 

Several attempts were made to arrange for dinner 
between twelve and one o'clock at farm-houses on the 
Iowa side, but the stupid foreigners whom we 
encountered declined to accommodate, seeming to 
regard us with suspicion. Our perseverance was ulti- 
mately rewarded with an excellent dinner at Specht's 
Ferry, thirty miles belo^v Gutteuberg. 

The afternoon was the finest we had chronicled in 
many days and afforded us a splendid opportunity to 
study scenery and other objects of interest in our " line 
of march." 

The geologist, mineralogist or artist will find in the 
tour from Prairie du Chien to Dubuque a most pro- 
ductive field for research, and one possessing more 
beauty of scenery and grandeur than any other sec- 
tion of the Mississippi below Winona. His attention 
will be arrested by the peculiar outline of hills that 
limit the vision on either side of the river, and the 
perpendicular walls of rock that rise from the grassy 
slope or green copsewood in massive cliffs, which 
terrace the heights as with continuous natural battle- 
ments. This scenery not only characterizes the banks 
of the Mississippi, but many of its Iowa and Wisconsin 
tributaries. At the base of the cliffs we often noted 
cool, clear, and copious springs, which not un frequently 
give rise to small streams containing an abundance of 
delicious trout. The sportsman will find the rivers of 
this region well stocked with pike, carp, bass, cat-fish, 
pickerel and sun-fish, while the prairies abound in 
grouse, partridges and pheasants. 



236 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Along the banks of the Mississippi the surface is 
broken and too uneven for farming purposes, but 
affords excellent pasturage, while from the valleys and 
bottoms are gathered hay and grain for winter fodder, 
leaving little to be desired by the shei)herd and stock- 
raiser. Further back from the river on the Iowa side 
are found undulating prairies, interspersed with open 
groves of timber, watered with pebbly or rock-bedded 
streams, pure and transparent; hills of moderate eleva- 
tion and gentle slope, with here and there small lakes 
and ponds, some skirted with timber, and others sur- 
rounded by the greensward of the open prairie. 

Less than forty years have elapsed since this section 
was in full possession of the Winnebago Indians. How 
changed the scene ! Their villages, their hunting- 
grounds and the unbroken forests have disappeared. 
The palefaces came among them, and the axe of the 
woodman broke the solitude of ages and warned them 
of an impending fate. No longer shall these groves 
and plains be the hunting-ground of the red man ; no 
longer the deep ravines serve as lurking-places for 
the wily foe, nor the bluif-side as a battle-field between 
contending tribes. No longer 

" With tawny limb, 
And belt and beads in sunlight glistening, 
Does the savage urge his skiff like 
A wild bird on the wing." 

Their struggle against the onward march of civiliza- 
tion was in vain, and 

"Where prowled the wolf and where the hunter roved, 
Faith raised her altars to the God she loved." 

Our journey was uninterrupted until about four 




II I lu ^ illMllMlrtlll! |!i'lli:ilhlll!ill|i'l:l'llil!l!illlOlEi:i!;i!!ili:i 111 :JlfliilillllllillilliMI|iiillliiMllillll 



LA CUOSSL TO DUBUQUE. 239 

j^clock, when we ran into the log-boom of a saw-mill 
just above Dubuque. A long "pocket" had been 
constructed for the reception of logs, and into this we 
slipped before realizing that, like all well-ordered 
pockets, there was but one way out of it. We had, in 
brief, after discovering our dilemma, indulged the hope 
that as, in a few parallel cases still preserved in memory, 
there might be a hole in this rather unwelcome Missis- 
sippi saw-mill-log-boom pocket, and so glided down 
towards the mill. We recalled our Winona adventure, 
but that was a squall, while this affair was certainly a 
boom^ and if there is anything in a name, our present 
unfavorable lookout was likely to result to our advan- 
tage. Proximity to the inevitable saw-mill finally 
brought our musings to an end, and our canoe to a 
standstill, for we had run into a nest of two or three 
thousand logs, and must either retreat by the route we 
had entered or lift the canoe over the boom, by no 
means an easy matter, considering that there was noth- 
ing but a narrow pole to stand on while we were 
making the transfer, and that floating on the surface 
of the water. Running the canoe alongside the boom, 
Paine stepped out upon the latter, and balancing him- 
self with his double paddle, gave me a hand, and in a 
moment more I was beside him. We then hoisted the 
canoe over and launched it on the other side. It is per- 
haps needless to add that we resolved to give saw- 
mills and their booms a wide berth in future. 

The citizens of Dubuque claim for their city the 
distinctive title of '^ Metropolis of Iowa." In what 
measure the claim is justified we must leave to the 
other enterprising and flourishing cities of this State 
to determine. 
16 



240 nOWJ^ THE GEE AT RIVEli. 

Up to the year 1803, the French owned an immense 
region west of the Mississippi, which in that year 
became ])art of the pnblic domain of the United States 
by i)urchase. This region had previously belonged to 
Spain, and during the tenure of the Spaniards, namely 
in 1778, a young Canadian trader, named Julien 
Dubuque, obtained the privilege of working the lead 
mines which are situated within the limits of the 
present city. This privilege was obtained from the 
Indians, and in 1806, Dubuque and his companions 
applied to the United States Government to have their 
claim established as a Spanish grant, on the ground 
that the governor of Louisiana had confirmed, in 
1796, the Indian permission given eight years before. 
In 1810, Dubuque died ; but his heirs-at-law con- 
tinued to press their claim, and the "Dubuque claim 
case " was legislated upon in Congress and litigated in 
the courts for nearly fifty years, until, in 1853, it was 
finally settled adversely to the claimants. 

In the year 1832, the Black Hawk War was closed, 
and a treaty extinguished the title of the Indians to 
the lands which now form the eastern part of the State 
of Iowa. A settlement was soon made by a few 
American immigrants and their families ; others shortly 
followed, and Dubuque became in two years a busy 
mining village, having received its name by vote at a 
public meeting of the settlers. 

Iowa became a Territory in 1838, Dubuque having 
been incorporated as a village in the previous year. In 
1840 the population of the village was less than one 
thousand. The first newspaper published in the Ter- 
ritory was started in 1836, under the title of The 
Dubuque Visitor. In 1840 a movement was made to 



LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 24X 

incorporate Dubuque as a city, and in the spring of 
1841 this was effected by the election of a mayor and 
aldermen to manage the city affairs. 

The lead-mining operations were prosperous, and 
the foundation of a flourishing city had been laid by 
this industry. In December, 1847, Iowa became a 
State, and the population of Dubuque had now increased 
to over three thousand. The city had become an im- 
portant receiving point, but Galena was still its suc- 
cessful rival for the up-river commerce. It required 
another decade to secure the success which has been 
achieved by Dubuque. 

The emigration from the Eastern States to Iowa in 
1850, and for several years afterward, largely added 
to the population of this city. Improvement of the 
streets and business blocks followed, with large school- 
buildings for the accommodation of six hundred pupils 
each; and, during the five years preceding 1856, 
Dubuque made more progress than it had done in the 
previous fifteen years. During this latter year the 
population had grown to nearly sixteen thousand. In 
1857 and 1858 the city met with some reverses owing- 
to the general financial revulsion; but in 1859 busi- 
ness revived, immigration from the East was resumed, 
and the business men of Dubuque commenced earnest 
work for the welfare of their promising city. Fine 
blocks of buildings and commodious public halls were 
erected, and the General Government began the con- 
struction of the Custom House and Post-Office. From 
1860 to 1870, the whole country was convulsed by the 
Civil War and its results. Although far removed 
from the scenes of military conflicts, Dubuque City and 
County sent three companies of volunteers to battle 



242 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

against rebellion, besides many who enlisted in the 
regular army. Within a year after the close of the 
war, the city grew more rapidly; trade, manufactures 
and public improvements increased, and more houses, 
schools and churches were built. 

In 1870 the population of Dubuque had increased 
to over eighteen thousand. A street railway was added 
to the facilities for passenger transit; and steady 
progress made it all that pertains to a healthy munici- 
pal growth. Among the manufectures of this thriv- 
ing city are those of steam-engines, boilers, threshing- 
machines, casting and the work of iron-foundries and 
machine-shops, coppersmith work, tobacco, window- 
shades, churns, fanning-mills, trunks, soap, flour, 
wagons and carriages, furniture, planing-mill work, 
cooperage, brick, vinegar and many others. The trad© 
in lumber affords a striking contrast. In 1834 a 
small raft of pine boards, the first that ever descended 
the Upper Mississippi, furnished the material for a 
frame building used as a boarding-house in Dubuque. 
In 1870 fifty million feet of pine lumber were sold 
from fifteen Dubuque lumber-yards, and the trade has 
very considerably increased since that date. 

The first school in Iowa was opened in Dubuque in 
1833. At present there are in the city a dozen fine 
buildings, with about eighty well-qualified teachers and 
over three thousand pupils to mark the educational 
progress of its citizens. The lead mines of Juliea 
Dubuque within the corporation limits and surround- 
ing them, have been, and are still, an important ele- 
ment of prosperity. The lead district of Dubuque 
County comprises over a hundred square miles, but 
the larger number of the mines are worked within the 



LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 243 

city, or within a mile or two of it. Many of the valu- 
able lodes near Dubuque have been worked beneath 
gardens, streets, roads and cultivated fields. The 
product of the mines has averaged in value about three 
hundred thousand dollars annually, and they are still 
as productive as they were nearly fifty years ago. 

The Methodists, in 1834, were the first religious 
denomination established in Dubuque. The Catholics 
were the next, in 1835; and by the year 1840,' the 
Presbyterians, Congregational ists. Episcopalians and 
Baptists liad organized churches. 

No city of the Union of equal population has in our 
opinion more reason to be proud of its position, char- 
acter and reputation, than Dubuque, in developing all 
the elements of progress, placed by nature at its dis- 
posal. From its fortunate geographical position, nearly 
midway between Saint Louis and Saint Paul, it bids 
fair to justify its claim to be the " Metropolis of Iowa.'' 



CHAPTER XX. 

DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 

Itfts-nmtl) JDaa. 

Bower House, 

Bellevue, lowUf 

September 18, 1881. 

^ EMAINED at Dubuque until after din- 
ner. Spent the morning in strolls through 
and around the city. On calling for our 
canoe at one o'clock, we found a strong 
wind from the south, and in consequence 
rough water was encountered throughout 
the afternoon. 
On leaving Dubuque we noticed a very pro- 
nounced change in the scenery. The bold, rocky 
bluifs, which had been observed at intervals all along 
our route from the Falls of Saint Anthony, had almost 
entirely disappeared, and in their place rolling prairies 
came down, in many cases to the water's edge, in 
gradual slopes. Illinois is now on our left hand, and 
as we reach and pass the various cities and towns that 
serve as landmarks on the river, we begin to realize 
that we are making good progress toward the Gulf. 
We were strongly tempted to paddle over to the east 
bank and set our feet on the soil of the " Sucker " 
State, but the wind having shifted to westward we 
(244) 




DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 245 

thoiio:lit it wise to hao; the windward shore. If more 
favored to-morrow we shall run over and pay our re- 
spects. 

Reached Bellevue at half-past seven o'clock and 
registered at the Bower House. Here, through the 
courtesy of our landlord, Mr. N. O. Ames, we were 
introduced to several very intelligent and agreeable 
citizens, among whom were Hon. W. O. Evans, editor 
of the Leader^ Captain W. A. Warren and Mr. B. 
W. Seaward. From these gentlemen we gleaned 
considerable information concerning the peculiar origin 
and early history of Bellevue. It is said to have been 
settled by bandits in 1836, and has a present popula- 
tion of eighteen hundred honest, industrious and pros- 
perous citizens. 

It stands on a high bank thirty-two miles below 
Dubuque, has an excellent landing and is noted for its 
fine scenery. 

I should do injustice to the moral standard of I'iiis 
respectable and enterprising town, if I failed to exp/ain 
iiat its bandit pioneers, after many sanguinary strug- 
gles with the officers of the law, were, long years ago, 
exterminated, so that the traveler in these times, v/ho 
contemplates a sojourn at this delightful summer re- 
sort, need have no fears, nor provide himself with an 
unusual supply of ammunition, nor call on the au- 
thorities to protect his life and property from the 
onslaughts of marauders. 

Bellevue has two banks, one weekly paper and an 
extensive trade by railway in grain, stock and agri- 
cultural produce. 

It is a promising town, and its onward move- 
ment seems assured. 



246 DOWN THE GREAT lilVER, 

Bevebe HoiniE, 

Clin touy low Of 

Sept. Nineteenth. 

So agreeably had we been entertained by the suc- 
cessors of the " bandits/' that we did not re-embark 
until nine o'clock in the morning, and then rather re- 
luctantly, notwithstanding our resolution of the pre- 
vious evening to start at a much earlier hour. We 
reached Sabula, on the west bank, thirty-three miles 
below Bellevue, a few minutes after one o'clock, at 
which place we dined. 

We stepped ashore at Lyons and looked through 
its principal streets. This city is fifty-eight miles 
south-east of Dubuque, and three above Clinton, with 
which it is connected by street railways. It has a 
national bank, two weekly papers, graded public 
schools, a seminary, several factories and extensive 
nurseries. Its population as given by the last census 
is something over four thousand. 

Just below Lyons we were met by Messrs. E. L. 
Moses and W. F. Coan, Jr., of the Wapsipinicon 
Boat-club, who, having been apprised through their 
city papers that we were on our way to Clinton, came 
up the river to extend the hospitalities of their club. 
These gentlemen led the way down to their boat- 
house, where we were shown the various craft in 
which they delight to cut the water. Boats large and 
small, and of every variety of manufacture, from the 
rudest pattern of a dug-out, to the most delicately 
constructed sculls and skiffs. 

After spending a half-hour with the "Wapsies" we 



DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 247 

were escorted to the Revere House and introduced to 
the proprietor, Mr. J. G. Cornue, to whom we were 
indebted for many favors and much valuable infor- 
mation concerning Clinton and vicinity. 

Clinton, the county-seat of Clinton County, is situ- 
ated on the west bank of the Mississippi, just above 
the mouth of the Wapsipinicon. It is eighty miles 
below Dubuque, forty-two above Davenport and one 
hundred and thirty-eight west of Chicago. It contains 
three banks, one daily and three weekly papers, rail- 
road repair-shops, foundries, sash and blind-factories, 
a paper-mill and eight saw-mills. Population about 
ten thousand. The river is crossed at this point by 
an iron railway drawbridge, having its eastern ter- 
minus in Fulton, a small towMi on the Illinois side. 

While here, we learned of the death of President 
Garfield, which occurred between eight and nine 
o'clock in the evening. The announcement reached 
Clinton at half-past ten. I had retired, but was 
aroused by the newsboys, who were crying extras on 
the streets, and a few moments later the hotel clerk 
handed me a copy of the Clinton Herald, giving an 
account of the sad event at Elberon, New Jersey. 

Private House, 

Moline, Illinois, 

September Twentieth, 

We were up very early in the morning and, after 
reading the details of the President's death, had 
breakfast; then walked down to the boat-club house, 
where we found several members of the club awaiting 
us. Was introduced to their commodore, Mr. E. M. 



248. DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Trernan, and others. Mr. E. L. Moses, who met us 
above Clinton the evening before, accompanied us 
down the river in a "sculP' as far as Comanche, 
where he introduced me to an acquaintance of his, 
Colonel J. H. Smith, late of the Sixteenth Iowa 
Volunteers, who, I soon discovered, had been a fellow- 
prisoner at Richmond during the War of the Rebel- 
lion. We soon fell to talking over our army ex= 
periences, and became so much absorbed in the inci- 
dents of our prison-days, that Paine concluded I had 
quite forgotten that Moline was the evening objective. 
Perhaps I had, for it is not an easy matter to break 
away from those with whom we have shared priva- 
tions, hardships and dangers, when we meet them but 
once or twice in the course of a lifetime. 

Had dinner at Cordova, a small hamlet on the Illi- 
nois shore, twenty-one miles below Clinton. So 
strong was the current during this day's journey that 
we covered forty-three miles between nine o'clock in 
the morning and five in the afternoon, notwithstanding 
my interview with Colonel Smith, at Comanche, and 
an hour for refreshments at Cordova. 

The Le Claire Rapids, ten miles above Moline, were 
thought by many to be dangerous to navigation in 
small boats; but we rather coveted the impetus which 
they were certain to give our staunch little caaioe, 
while we felt sure that their turbulent character had 
been greatly exaggerated. It is needless to add that 
the rapids were safely passed and that we heartily en- 
joyed the excitement which invariably falls to the 
lot of a voyager in a swift current with occasional 
slight obstructions. These are the only rapids be- 
tween Fort Snelling, Minnesota, and Keokuk, Iowa, 



DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 249 

with the exception of the Lower Rapids at Moline, 
which are a continuation of the former. The ve- 
locity of the Upper Rapids is sufficient to turn a mill- 
wheel requiring considerable power, and we noticed 
one in operation on the Iowa side. 

Arriving at a convenient landing-place at Moline, 
in sight of many evidences of an advanced civilization 
in the shape of sundry gigantic smoke-stacks, we 
found ourselves in the lively little city which has 
been designated, with some show of reason, the " Lowell 
of the West." Moline is exclusively a manufacturing 
centre. Passing along its main street, parallel to the 
river, we see little else than factories, some of con- 
siderable size, and the busy hum of machinery sa- 
lutes our ears for more than a mile, as we walk, and 
look with wonder on these signs of the march of 
western industry and progress. The motive power 
produced by a fall in the Mississippi at this point, and 
utilized for the driving of machinery, is the source 
of all this energy, and has made Moline one of 
the busiest and most flourishing places in the western 
country. The National Government has of late years 
greatly improved this motive power for the benefit, 
mainly, of the United States Arsenal works on the 
island, but no less has it contributed to the solid ad- 
vantage of the enterprising settlers on the adjacent 
mainland, and hence Moline, the "City of Mills,'' has 
attained its present importance, and, we believe, it 
may truly be said that no other city in the West, of 
its size, equals it in manufacturing vigor and re- 
sources. The great plow-factory of Messrs. Deere 
& Company is known far and wide, while many 
other establishments of scarcely less celebrity flourish 



250 DOWK THE GREAT RIVER. 

side by side on the river's bank, giving employment to 
large numbers of people and creating and distributing 
wealth over the land. 

The site of this enterprising city is favorable to its 
growth, and ali'eady it extends its arms eastward 
almost to Eock River, an important tributary of the 
Mississippi, distant from Moline pi'oper about three 
miles. It must be said, however, that the useful pre- 
dominates over the beautiful here, as in most manu- 
facturing centres, albeit not lacking, over the bluffs, in 
many beautiful spots, where extensive views of the 
Great River are obtained, and sites for building are 
being selected. Educational and religious matters are 
not forgotten by this busy people. Besides several 
excellent schools, including a handsome and commo- 
dious High School, the site of which overlooks the 
city, and is in every respect a credit to the citizens, 
Moline has a flourishing Public Library, containing 
many thousand volumes of theological, historical, bio- 
graphical and scientific works, together with a good 
assortment of fiction. Here are also several churches 
of the various religious denominations and, from all 
we could learn, the people are generally sober, intelli- 
gent and industrious. 

In population Moline is smaller than either Daven- 
port or Rock Island City, but in manufacturing im- 
portance it far excels them both. The source of its 
growth and prosperity — the water-power — will doubt- 
less continue to operate as such for generations un- 
told, and Moline will eventually fill the entire space 
between the Mississippi and Rock River at this point. 
Sylvan Water, the poetic designation given to a por- 
tion of the Great River lying between the city and 




AN IOWA TEIBUTARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 



DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 



251 



Rock-Island Arsenal, has been the scene of the an- 
nual regatta of the Mississippi Valley Amateur 
Rowino- Association, for which it is found to be emi- 
nently adapted. A substantial bridge uniting Moline 
with the arsenal crosses it, and from this a view is ob- 
tained of the extensive government works now in 
progress for the permanent improvement of the water- 
power. 





CHAPTER XXI. 

FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 

Rock Island Arsenal — City of Rock Island. 

'HE entire forenoon of September twenty- 
first was devoted to an inspection of the 
varied manufactures of Moline, and in 
"^ the afternoon we dropped down to Daven- 
port. Among those who shook hands with 
us at the landing was Colonel P. A. J. Rus- 
sell, city editor of the Democrat, who was the first 
to greet me here during my horseback journey from 
ocean to ocean in 1876, and who now seemed doubly 
interested in my canoe voyage from source to sen. 
The colonel remarked that he had no intention of 
letting me intersect my old line of march without see- 
ing at least one familiar face. 

Stepping into a carriage which was in waiting at the 
ferry, we were driven to the " Kimball,'^ until recently 
known as the Burtis House, where I had registered 
during my former journey. The chief topic of con- 
versation everywhere at this time was the death and 
approaching funeral of President Garfield. Having 
an engagement to lecture at Davenport on the twenty- 
third, it was thought advisable by many to cancel it 
out of respect to theNation's dead ; while others urged 

that as a large number of tickets had been sold it 
(252) 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 253 

would be better to meet the appointment. I accord- 
ingly lectured at Library Hall, being introduced by 
Mayor Henry. I referred to the dead President be- 
fore proceeding with my lecture, and gave my reasons 
for delivering it at a time when nearly all public en- 
gagements were either cancelled or postponed. 

The site of Davenport and its vicinity was the 
camping-ground of the Indians from time immemo- 
rial. Marquette and Joliet, the discoverers of the 
country over two hundred years ago, found the tribes 
of the Illini here. There were three villages; the 
main one, at which they landed, was called Pewaria, 
where, it is believed, the city of Davenport now stands, 
as it is laid down on Marquette's map on the west 
side of the river " Conception/' as he named the Mis- 
sissippi. The beauty of its location has been oft^n 
descanted upon. It needs no pen of mine to describe 
its loveliness and the rich and varied landscape that 
surrounds it. 

Less than fifty years ago the first cabin was erected 

here by white men. The retreating footsteps of the 

red man were still heard over the bluffs. The graves 

of his people were still fresh on the brow of the hills, 

but all of this, with the play-grounds of his children, 

have now been covered over with the habitations of 

the pale face. The mighty river that once bore the 

frail bark of a Marquette and a Joliet has become the 

thoroughfare of states. AVhere the light canoe of the 

savage once glided in safety, the scu-ti-chemon (or 

steamboat) of the white man now floats with majesty 

and splendor, and this magnificent river has become 

the highway of a mighty nation. The Mackinaw 

trading-boat, with its French voyageur has left its 
17 



254 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

moorings on As-sin-ne- Man-ess (Rock Island), and old 
Fort Armstrong, that had stood like a watchful sen- 
tinel on the jutting rocks of the island for more than 
forty years, has been burned down by sacrilegious 
hands. 

The bluffs of Davenport consist of a gentle rise from 
the river or bottom lands; not so steep but that roads 
are constructed up almost every part of them. The 
general elevation of these bluffs or highlands is about 
one hundred feet above the Mississippi, covered now 
with residences, gardens and cultivated fields to their 
summit. Davenport Township differs from most others 
upon the river in the beautiful rolling prairie imme- 
diately back from the river, after passing the bluffs. 
Back of the city the slope from the top of the bluff to 
Duck Creek, covered as it is with gardens and fields, 
is one of uncommon beauty and richness. 

At the close of the year 1832 there were no settle- 
ments of white men in Iowa. In this year, on the 
fifteenth of September, General Winfield Scott nego- 
tiated a treaty with the Indians of the Sac tribe for the 
purchase by the United States of the territory com- 
prising Scott County, bordering on the river. The 
city of Davenport was named after Colonel George 
Davenport, the first white settler on Kock Island, on 
the eastern shore of the river and immediately opposite 
the site of Davenport, The Government had ai)pointed 
him Indian agent and he received a grant of land on 
the Island. 

The first person that owned land in Davenport was 
Antoine Le Claire, the son of a Canadian French- 
man, born in Michigan in 1797. His mother was the 
daughter of a Pottawatomie chief. At this time the 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 255 

Territory of the Northwest, out of which half a dozen 
great States have since been formed, was peopled 
almost entirely by the red man, with here and there 
one of a different race, fearless enough to brave the 
perils of a frontier life among the dusky denizens of 
the wilderness. The father of Le Claire was one of 
these. The claim upon which the city of Davenport 
was laid out was purchased by Le Claire for one hun- 
dred and fifty dollars! In 1835 Mr. Le Claire sold 
his claim to a company, whose object was to lay it out 
as a town site. They chose well, as the event has 
amply established. During the first year only some 
half dozen families came in, mostly from Saint Louis. 
The first hotel, the first store and the first saloon were 
opened this same year. The saloon was a log shanty 
and stood on Front street below Western avenue. The 
"Davenport Hotel," a frame building of small pre- 
tension, erected by Messrs. Davenport and Le Claire, 
occupied a lot on the corner of Front and Ripley 
streets ; asid the first store was the property of James 
Mackintosh, who sold to the scant population dry- 
goods, groceries, hardware and provisions. But, in 
addition to the dozen families in Davenport, purchasers 
came from the opposite shore of the river. Lumber 
was at that time brought up the river from Cincinnati. 
Flour at sixteen dollars per barrel and pork at six- 
teen cents per pound were also brought from Cincin- 
nati. From this first year the ferry also dates its 
origin — a flat-boat propelled by oars. This, in timCc 
gave i)]ace to steam, and, at present, a large and com- 
modious steamboat is constantly employed in trans- 
ferring freight and passengers between the Iowa and 
Illinois shores of the river, which at this point is about 



256 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

a mile wide. The mortality of Davenport during the 
first year of its existence amounted to seven, with a 
population of less than one hundred souls. Stevenson 
— now Rock Island City, on the Illinois shore, which 
had been laid out in 1834 — possessed at this time a 
population of nearly five hundred. 

Davenport, in the beauty of its location, excels all 
the other cities in the State. Handsome homes dot th^ 
bluffs. River views, for residences, have been exten- 
sively occupied by the well-to-do citizens, and the 
scope of country brought within the range of the eye 
from some of these hill-top dwellings is scarcely to be 
excelled for beauty by anything I have seen on the 
river. The drainage is of nature's own making — the 
city being built on a declivity. There is much room 
for improvement in the sidewalks here. Possibly the 
citizens are too busy to give thought to a subject that 
concerns them only externally. Strangers, however, 
notice their defective, and in many cases dilapidated, 
condition, and make uncharitable remarks. The same 
applies to the County Court House, which is, w^ithout 
exception, the meanest I have seen in any city east 
of the Rockies and north of "Dixie." Verhum 
Yipientia suffiGit. 

" O wad some power the giftie gie us, 
To see oursels as itli ers see us ! " 

The educational advantages are proportioned to the 
size of the city. Here are twelve school-buildings, in- 
eluding that of the High School, erected in 1874, at a 
cost of sixty-five thousand dollars. The annual cost 
of the twelve schools is about seventy thousand dol- 
lars. Griswold College, belonging to the Protestant 
Episcopal diocese of Iowa, occupies a very picturesque 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 2hl 

site overlooking the river. The Roman Catholic 
Academy of the Immaculate Conception is conducted 
by the Sisters of Charity of the B. V. M. Located 
within the city boundaries, it is surrounded by beauti- 
ful grounds and appears as quiet and retired as if 
miles away from the hum of the restless city. The 
buildings are elegant and commodious, and a new ad- 
dition, at a cost of twenty-five thousand dollars is now 
in course of erection. This academy was opened for 
the education of young ladies in 1859. The churches 
are numerous and well attended. Grace Church, the 
cathedral of the Protestant Episcopal diocese of Iowa, 
is a very fine, substantial edifice, erected at a cost of 
eighty thousand dollars. 

Trinity Church has a chime of bells, awaking mem- 
ories of youth both grave and gay, and may be heard 
at a distance of several miles. The Roman Catholic 
diocese of Davenport, embracing the southern half 
of the State, has also its seat here in the residence of 
the bishop. Four Baptist, four Catholic, one Chris- 
tian, two Congregational, four Episcopal, one Hebrew, 
three Lutheran, four Methodist, one Unitarian and 
four Presbyterian churches afford strong evidence of 
progress in the cause of religion. 

The Public Library on Brady street, ?s a means of 
education, is not to be passed over without favorable 
mention. It was founded by the late Mrs. Clarissa 
C. Cook, a lady of wealth and benevolence, and con- 
tains about ten thousand volumes; but the institution 
which has contributed most to the fame of Davenport, 
is its Academy of Sciences. This embraces a most 
valuable collection of rare curiosities, ancient and 
modern — relics from the mounds of Iowa and adjoin- 



258 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

ing states, including many skulls and portions of the 
skeletons of pre-historic man, and of animals of an ex- 
tinct race. The visitor to Davenport may spend a day 
very profitably in this well-ordered and attractive mu- 
seum. Mercy Hospital is under the management of 
the Sisters of Mercy, and was opened in 1868. It has 
grown to large proportions and receives and cares for 
patients without reference to their religious denomina- 
tion. It has the entire confidence of the citizens and 
all testify to its judicious management and great use- 
fulness. The Home for the Friendless, founded and 
liberally endowed by the benevolent Mrs. Cook, 
is a shelter for destitute females. It supplies a want 
found to exist, in a greater or less degree, in most 
cities, but unfortunately supplied in few. It is to the 
praise of Davenport that such an institution has been 
provided for friendless women and girls, and that 
it is so well and carefully conducted. 

The growth of Davenport has been mainly since 
1850. Surrounded by a beautiful and fertile country, 
it affords good sanitary conditions and every facility 
for the development of industry of many kinds. The 
present population is about 25,000. 

Rock Island Arsenal lies to the north of Rock Is- 
land City, the latter not being situated on the Island, 
as might be supposed by the untraveled reader from it? 
name. The Island proper has been appropriated by 
the United States Government since 1804, though un- 
occupied until 1812, on the breaking out of the war 
with Great Britain. A fort was erected here in 1816, 
and named Fort Armstrong, in honor of the then 
Secretary of War. It was garrisoned by United States 
troops until May, 1836, when it was evacuated. In 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 259 

1840, the Government established here an ordnance de- 
pot, but in 1845, the stores were removed to the Saint 
Louis Arsenal. In 1862, an Act of Congress con- 
verted the Island into an arsenal for the National 
Government, and such it remains to this day. General 
Thomas J. Rodman, the inventor of the Rodman gun, 
(v^as appointed to the commandof the Arsenal in June, 
1865, and continued in command until his death in 
1871. In March, 1869, Congress appropriated $500,- 
000 for the construction of a bridge across the Missis- 
sippi, uniting the Island with the city of Davenport, im- 
mediately opposite. General Rodman was succeeded in 
June, 1871, by Colonel D. W. Flagler, of the Ordnance 
Corps. This officer, since his appointment, has effected 
great improvements on the Island, having converted it 
into a strong military post — in fact, the strongest on 
the Mississippi. He has erected substantial quarters 
for the commander and his subordinate officers, 
soldiers' barracks, a complete system of sewerage, a 
bridge, connecting the Island with the city of Moline ; 
roads, streets and avenues across the Island ; a water- 
|)Ower wall, powder-magazine, pump-house, and has 
introduced the manufacture of stores for the army and 
machinery for the various shops in which the material 
of war is extensively fabricated. 

Rock Island Arsenal is united with the Iowa side 
of the river, as before stated, by a well-constructed and 
handsome bridge, 1,550 feet long ; and with the Illinois 
i.ide by two bridges, one leading to Rock Island City 
and the other to Moline. The one spanning the Miss- 
issippi on the north of the Island is a most durable 
structure, and is said to be one of the finest in the 
United States. 



260 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

White settlers appear to have first located in the 
vicinity of Rock Island about the year 1828. In the 
spring ofjiithat year there were only nine men and 
their faniilies on the site of the present city of Rock 
Island. About this time the Indians of the Sac tribe, 
of whom Black Hawk was the recognized chief, were 
in the habit of leaving their villages on the Island and 
its vicinity for several months on hunting expeditions, 
and the white settlers took advantage of this absence 
to move in and take posessession. This gave rise to 
much discontent and hostility on the part of Black 
Hawk and his people when they returned to their 
homes ; and as the number of settlers increased, the 
animosity of the Indians became stronger. The com- 
manding officer on the Island and the Indian agent, 
Colonel George Davenport, frequently urged the In- 
dians to give up their villages and lands and move 
across to the west side of the Mississippi, in accordance 
w^ith a treaty they had entered into with the United 
States Government; but Black Hawk refused to go. 
Keokuk, the chief of the Fox tribe, in compliance 
with the treaty, moved to the Iowa side of the river 
and established himself there. From 1828 to 1831, 
the white settlers on the main land in the vicinity of 
Rock Island rapidly increased in number. The lands 
were surveyed and sold to the settlers by the United 
States Government, but Black Hawk and his party of 
Sacs, which numbered about five hundred warriors, 
still occupied their villages and refused to leave. The 
settlers frequently complained of depredations by the 
Indians, and in the spring of 1831 Black Hawk 
warned the white men that they must leave. It was 
feared that some neighboring tribes of Indians, the 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 261 

Kickapoos, Pottawatomies and Winnebagos, would 
join Black Hawk in an attack on the settlers. The 
latter sent petitions to the military authorities at Rock 
Island and Saint Louis and to the Governor of Illinois, 
and in this way commenced what is known as the 
Black Hawk War. 

Governor Reynolds, of Illinois, in response to the 
repeated complaints of the settlers, as^serabled about 
sixteen hundred mounted volunteers at Beardstown, 
ninety miles from Rock Island, and marched them to 
the Island. General Gaines, who was stationed at 
Saint Louis, proceeded at once to Rock Island with 
the Sixth United States Infantry. The settlers were 
all ordered to move to the Island, and the General sent 
for Black Hawk for a talk. General Gaines, the offi- 
cers of the Sixth Regiment, the officers of the Island 
garrison, and the settlers, met in the Council House. 
Black Hawk, accompanied by about one hundred war- 
riors in their war-paint, drew near, and when within 
about one hundred yards of the place of assembly 
commenced shouting in a very loud and intimidating 
voice. It was thought, from the shouting and the 
manner of the Indians, that there would be an at- 
tempt made at a general massacre. A man called 
'^ The Prophet," who always accompanied Black Hawk, 
commenced shouting in the Council House in a very 
boisterous manner, gesticulating and speaking rapidly 
as though he was very angry and desired to excite the 
warriors to an attack. General Gaines spoke to Black 
Hawk quietly of the sale of their lands to the United 
States Government. The Indians said the lands had 
never been sold. General Gaines then called for the 
reading of the treaty, which seemed to enrage thero 



262 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

still more. Black Hawk exclaimed, " The white peo- 
ple speak from a paper, but,'^ striking his hand upon 
his breast, *^ the Indian always speaks from the heart." 
He said their lands had not been sold, as the men who 
signed the treaty had no authority to sell, having been 
sent to meet the Government chiefs at Saint Louis on 
other business. And if it was sold, they got nothing 
for it. The General then pressed for an answer about 
his leaving for the territory assigned him and his people 
on the west side of the Mississippi. He replied, that 
he would not leave, and he would not fight, but if the 
whites came to drive him oflF, he would sit down in his 
wigwam and they might do as they pleased with him ; 
for himself he would do nothing. General Gaines in- 
terpreted this to mean that he would fight. 

On the evening of June nineteenth, 1831, General 
Gaines' command was joined by General Reynolds 
with his volunteer troops near the mouth of Rock 
River, and the next morning the combined forces 
moved upon the Indian village. They found, how- 
ever, that Black Hawk and all his people had left. 
They had crossed the Mississippi and camped about 
twelve miles below Rock Island. June thirtieth, 
Black Hawk came to the Island with twenty-seven 
of his warriors and signed a treaty of peace with 
General Gaines and the governor of Illinois, the latter 
acting in behalf of the Government. In this treaty, 
Black Hawk pledged himself not to return to the east 
side of the river near the Island, or to engage again 
in hostilities with the white settlers. The Illinois 
volunteers were then disbanded and went home, and 
provisions were distributed to the Indians by General 
Gaines. 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 263 

During the fol lowing winter, it became evident that 
Black Hawk would not kee[) the treaty which he had 
signed only a few months before; and in the following 
April (1832) he crossed the Mississippi at Burlington 
and moved up the bank of the river with about five 
hundred warriors and his women and children, with 
the intention of driving out the settlers and reoccupy- 
ing his old village on the Island. He expected assist- 
ance from the Winnebagos and other Indians on 
Rock River. The news of Black Hawk's movements 
soon reached Saint Louis, and Colonel Atkinson left 
that city with the First Infantry for Rock Island. 
Lieutenant-Colonel Zachary Taylor, afterwards Presi- 
dent of the United States, was in command, and Lieu- 
tenant Jefferson Davis, afterwards President of the 
Confederate States, was attached to the First Regiment, 
and served through the campaign. Governor Rey- 
nolds, of Illinois, assembled about two thousand volun- 
teers at Beardstown and marched to Yellow Banks, 
fifty miles below Rock Island. Then he moved to 
the mouth of Rock River, where he was joined by 
Colonel Atkinson and the regulars. The volunteers 
were commanded by General Whiteside ; and Abraham 
Lincoln, afterwards President of the United States, 
held the rank of captain in the command and fought 
throughout the campaign. The Indians had gone up 
Rock River until they were opposite Rock Island. 
Then Black Hawk sent his women and children up 
the river in canoes, and he and his warriors ventured a 
bold attempt to capture Fort Armstrong on the Island. 
At this time the garrison mustered less than eighty 
fio-htina: men. Black Hawk crossed to the Island with 
his warriors by night, a distance of five miles through 



264 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

the woods and over the blufiPs to the west side. A 
violent snow-storm prevented an attack that night, 
and before morning Colonel Atkinson arrived with 
the First Infantry and probably saved the small gar- 
rison from massacre. 

The Indians withdrew during the night and fol- 
lowed their women up Rock River. Colonel Atkin- 
son at once joined General Whiteside and his volun- 
teers and started in pursuit. After much hard fight- 
ing in the months of May, June, July and August, 
nearly the whole of Black Hawk's band was destroyed, 
and Black Hawk himself, his son Seoskuk and other 
chiefs, were captured and conveyed to Rock Island. 
They were afterwards taken to Washington and other 
eastern cities. The Government took much pains to 
secure for Black Hawk a kind reception by the Indians 
upon his return from his " eastern tour ; " and the ac- 
counts of the meeting between him and the chiefs at 
Rock Island are very affecting. Black Hawk then 
established himself, with a remnant of his own tribe, 
on Des Moines River, in Iowa, where he died in 1838. 

Tradition states that the Sacs and Foxes came from 
the vicinity of Montreal, Canada, before the year 
1700; and that they had lived in their villages on or 
near Rock Island fully one hundred and fifty years. 
Their affection for these villages was like that of the 
Israelites for their city of Jerusalem. From the close 
of the Black Hawk War, there is no record of further 
hostilities with the Indians at Rock Island. 

During the late Civil War, the Island was made 
available by the Government as a military prison, up- 
wards of twelve thousand Confederate prisoners having 
been confined here. Of these, one thousand nine hun- 



FO UR DA YS AT DA VENPOR T. 265 

dred and sixty-one died during their imprisonment 
and were buried on the Island. About four hundred 
Union soldiers were also buried here^ and on each re- 
curring Decoration Day, the graves are strewn with 
flowers. 

There is little more to be said of the Island except 
that it rests upon a substantial foundation of rock of 
the limestone order and hence its name. The length 
of the Island is two and three-quarter miles, and its 
width varies from a quarter to three-quarters of a 
mile. A very pleasant day may be passed in wander- 
ing over this island, which seems intended to become 
the arsenal for the entire Mississippi Valley. When 
the works are completed, if crowded to its full capacity, 
it will arm, equip and supply an army of seven hun^ 
dred and fifty thousand men — so it is estimated. 

Surrounded with the paraphernalia of grim war, 
Commandant Flagler has found time and opportunity 
for the cultivation of the science of ornithology, and 
has converted his island-fortress into an immense. 
aviary ! Here are to be seen, flitting about the dense 
foliage of the woodlands, almost every variety of 
American bird — nearly all song-birds, which build their 
nests and raise their broods on the Island unmolested. 
It is a singular adjunct to an arsenal and reflects credit 
on the taste and refinement of its gallant commander. 
The colonel wages war without quarter on the English 
sparrow, however, which he will not allow to alight 
and rest its little wings on his preserves on pain of 
summary execution by the shot-gun, without even a 
preliminary trial by court-martial. 

The city of Kock Island is situated on the main- 
land at the extremity of Rock Island Arsenal, on the 



266 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Illinois or left bank of the river. On its eastern side 
are some very picturesque bluffs, stretching away to 
the sheltered valley of the Rock River, and including 
scenery of unrivaled beauty. Comfortable residences 
dot the sides of these hills, amid clumps of trees and 
miniature forests that afford shelter and shade to the 
well-to-do residents. Rock Island is about midway 
between Saint Louis and Saint Paul, and immediately 
opposite the more populous city of Davenport, Iowa. 
It is, as already stated, connected with the latter city 
by an elegant and substantial iron bridge, owned by 
the Government and open to the public free of toll. 
The famous water-power produced by the lower rapids 
has contributed largely to the marvelous grov/th of 
this city as well as of Moline, the city of factories, 
within an easy walk or horse-car ride of Rock Island 
City. Here is to be the terminus of the projected 
Hennepin Canal, by which it is proposed to solve the 
problem of cheap transportation between the Atlantic 
Ocean and the Mississippi, through the intervening 
great lakes. Recently a deep interest has been mani- 
fested in the construction of this canal, the accomplish- 
ment of which will doubtless be of vast benefit to the 
people of the North-west, as well as to the public 
generally. 

In Rock Island City we found numerous flourish- 
ing establishments for the manufacture of plows, culti- 
vators and other agricultural appliances ; of wagons 
and carriages, together with foundries and machine- 
shops. At night the streets are brilliant with the 
Brush electric lights; the side-walks are well paved 
and clean, and generally in a much better condition 
for pedestrians than those of the sister city of Daven- 



FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 267 

port, across the river. Rock Island has a well-organ- 
ized police force; a fire department, water-works, 
street cars, and a flourishing Public Library; free postal 
delivery, churches, public schools, and a commerce and 
trade second to no city of its size in the Union. In 
the interest of the growth of a city the transportation 
problem is, perhaps, the most important question for 
the consideration of the citizens, and Rock Island is 
very favorably situated in this respect, owing to her 
position as the centre of a system of railroads. Several 
lines pass through here and give the city a busy aspect 
at all times. It is on the line of the great transconti- 
nental highway. The Chicago, Rock Island and 
Pacific Railroad, passing through Rock Island, con- 
nects the eastern trunk lines with the Union Pacific 
at Omaha ; and here also are depots of the Chicago, 
Milwaukee and Saint Paul ; the Chicago and North- 
western ; the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy; the 
Rock Island and Peoria, and the Rock Island and 
Mercer County railways. The population of this 
enterprising little city is at present about 16,000. The 
private residences have a neat and thrifty appearance, 
while some afford evidence of the wealth and taste of 
their owners. The shrubbery and flowers which 
cluster about the doorways of even the humblest resi- 
dences are indications of the comfort and thriving 
condition of the tenants. 

Three miles inland from Rock Island City is situ- 
ated a very picturesque and romantic resort, which is 
frequented by the inhabitants of both sides of the river 
at this point, the traditionary name of which is Black 
HawMs Watch-Tower. The tower is of nature^s archi- 
tecture, and is the summit of the highest hill overlook- 



258 1>0WN THE GEE AT lilVER. 

ing Rock Kiver, an important tributary, from which 
a most extensive and pleasing picture of the surround- 
ing country is obtained. The look-out derives its 
fanciful name from its having been used by Black 
Hawk as a point from which he could survey his coun- 
try for many miles round and the valley of the great, 
winding river. It is said to have been selected by the 
chief's father, and overlooked the tribe's first village 
near tlie banks of Rock River. Black Hawk in the 
account he gave to Antoine Le Claire, in 1833, says: 
" The Tower was my favorite resort and was often 
visited by me alone, where I could sit and smoke my 
pipe and look with wonder and pleasure at the grand 
scenes that were presented, even across the mighty 
river. On one occasion a Frenchman, who had been 
resting in our village, brought his violin with him to 
the Towner, to play and dance for the amusement of my 
people v/ho had assembled there, and, while dancing 
with his back to the cliff, accidentally fell over it and 
was killed. The Indians say that at the same time of 
the year soft strains of the violin can be heard near 
the spot." He further relates that "in the year 1827 
a young Sioux Indian, who was lost in a violent snow- 
storm, found his way into a camp of the Sacs, and while 
there fell in love with a beautiful maiden. On leav- 
ing for his own country he promised to return in the 
summer and claim his bride. He did so, secreting 
himself in the woods until he met the object of his 
affection. A heavy thunder-storm was coming on at 
the time, and the lovers took shelter under a rocky 
cliff on the south side of the Tower. Soon a loud peal 
of thunder was heard ; the cliff was rent into a thousarid 
pieces and they were buried beneath them. This, their 



FO UR DA YS AT DA VENPORT. 



271 



unexpected tomb," says Black Hawk, "still remains 
undisturbed." The " Tower " is much admired, and 
the street-cars of Rock Island convey many hundreds 
of visitors to its summit in the spring, summer and 
autumn, where they pic-nic for the day and enjoy, with 
the pure, healthful breezes, a most sublime view of 
the country for many miles. The property is owned 
by the Dav^noort family and is made freely accessible 
to all. 














"Vi^ 




BlacK^ HawK^'s 



WatchTqwer 



CHAPTER XXIL 



DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 




Eastern Hotel, 

Muscatine, Iowa, 

September 25, 1881. 

'E found an extended field for observation 
at Davenport, Rock Island and their 
environs, and would gladly have spent 
many more days in this delightful lo- 
cality ; but to keep in advance of the cold 
weather, which was now following us down 
the river with rapid strides, it was deemed pru- 
dent to press forward with all possible despatch. 
In consequence of this decision the lecture programme 
was abandoned and short halts contemplated in the 
cities and towns lying along our route. 

Greatly refreshed by our four days on shore, we 
resolved to make an early start on the morning of 
the twenty-fifth, £:nd at seven o'clock were in our 
canoe. Colonel Russell was at the landing, and after 
returning my '^ Mississippi Album," which had been 
left with him the previous evening, pushed us out 
into the stream with best wishes for a prosperous 
voyage. 

(272) 



DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 273 

On opening the album the following lines were found 
inscribed in the colonel's familiar hand : 

" Davenport, on the Mississippi, 
"My Dear Captain : September 25, 1881. 

" Safety and success, thus far, 
Adown this mighty stream ; 
May heaven guard thy progress still, 
And grant fulfilment of your dream I " 

We echoed the sentiment of the last two lines 
thenceforth to the end of our voyage. 

A vigorous use of our paddles for an hour and a 
half brought us to Buffalo, a small village on the right 
bank, ten miles below Davenport. After dinner at 
Buffalo we resumed our journey with Muscatine as the 
evening destination, which city was reached at five 
o'clock. We now began to regard ourselves as 
jiomething more than amateurs in canoe navigation, as 
the distance covered from day to day will convince 
the reader that we were not lacking in propelling 
force. 

Muscatine, on the west bank of the Mississippi, is built 
on a rocky bluff, the scenery from which in all direc- 
tions is very charming to the lover of nature. The 
city is situated at the apex of the Great Bend, thirty 
miles below Davenport and three hundred and seven- 
teen miles above Saint Louis by rail. The Muscatine 
division of the Burlington, Cedar Rapids and Minne- 
sota, and the south-western branch of the Chicago, 
Rock Island and Pacific railways have their stations 
here. It is the shipping-point of an extensive and 
fertile surrounding country, while widely extended 
beds of coal and quarries of freestone and limestone 



274 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

are in the neighborhood. Its lumber business is large 
and increasing, and barley, corn, oats, rye, wheat, wool, 
butter and pork are produced on the rich farms ad- 
joining. It supports two large pork-packing estab- 
lishments and three extensive saw-mills, and has a gas- 
works, four banking houses, good public schools, a 
Catholic school, a fine public library, five newspapers, 
a monthly periodical, and fifteen churches. Muscatine 
was first settled in 1836, and was incorporated as a 
city in 1853; and if the public spirit displayed by her 
capitalists is any indication of future prosperity, I con- 
clude that they will not be disappointed. The popula- 
tion now reaches over ten thousand. 

Farm House, 
Near Mouth of Iowa River^ 
September Twenty-sixth. 

Learning that this day, which had been appointed 
for the funeral of the late President Garfield, would 
be observed at Muscatine with befitting ceremonies, we 
remained in that city until three o'clock in the after- 
noon, in the meantime listening to an eloquent oration 
upon the life and public services of the eminent sol- 
dier and illustrious statesman whose brilliant career 
had been so suddenly closed by the hand of th« 
assassin. 

It was some time since we had enjoyed the hospi- 
talities of the farmers, but we had, nevertheless, not 
forgotten that many of the pleasantest evenings of our 
journey had been spent in the farm-houses of Minne- 
sota. We were now desirous of testing the courtesies 
and accommodations of the Iowa grangers, and also 



DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON, 275 

of picking up some information concerning their social 
and industrial progress. 

It was fortunate, perhaps, that circumstances brought 
us to the farm of John Warren Walton, a pioneer of 
Louisa County, an intelligent and affable gentleman. 
We wandered over Mr. Walton's farm, and, looking 
to the westward from an elevated position, our eyes 
rested upon the beautiful groves and running streams, 
and we wondered not that Keokuk and Black Hawk 
clung with such tenacity to their ancestral hunting- 
grounds. 

The Iowa River passes diagonally through this sec- 
tion of Iowa to its confluence with the. Mississippi. 
Its banks are heavily timbered, and the farmer finds 
his highest hopes realized in the natural resources of 
his possessions. In this county, but a few miles from 
the Walton farm, is the small village of Florence, 
which lives in history as the home of Black Hawk. 
Here repose the bones of his ancestors, while the re- 
nowned chief "sleeps his last sleep '^ in a distant part 
of the State. Our evening with the Waltons was oc- 
cupied chiefly in looking over a large number of Indian 
relics which had been carefully preserved and classi- 
fied by our agreeable host. It was one of the finest 
private collections we had ever examined. 

Barrett House, 
Burlington^ Iowa 
Sept. Twenty-seventh. 

" Weighed anchor " at seven o'clock. Our attention 
had been drawn to so many objects of interest in our 
route to Burlington that we clearly saw the necessity 



278 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

of an early start. Weather pleasant and but little 
wind. 

We ran down to Keithsburg for dinner. This 
is a small village of Mercer County, Illinois, thirty- 
five miles below Muscatine, and sixty-eight south-west 
of Chicago. It has a national bank, a graded public 
school, and a weekly paper. Population about one 
thousand. 

So genial were wind and weather during our sixty- 
sixth day that we were registered at the Barrett House, 
Burlington, at five o'clock, having covered forty-four 
miles since pushing off at the mouth of the Iowa in 
the morning. 

I had hardly reached my room at the hotel when 
ray daughter, Alice, now a girl of twelve years, came 
bounding up the stairs to meet me. She had been 
looking for us all the afternoon, but we had dropped 
into Burlington so quietly that very few were aware 
of our arrival until we were registered at the "Bar- 
rett." I had placed her at a private school here be- 
fore starting on my expedition. 

After tea the card of a representative of the Hawk- 
eye was handed me, followed a moment later by the 
sender, Mr. J. E. Calkins, who politely solicited for 
his paper the fullest particulars of our explorations 
and discoveries in Northern Minnesota. This infor- 
mation we, of course, readily furnished, and the 
following day the readers of the Hawheye were 
presented with a narrative of the discovery of the 
source of the Mississippi, and a brief outline of our 
voyage down the river. 

Julian Dubuque, a French-Canadian, was the first 
pioneer, as has been previously stated, who found hih- 



DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 277 

way to what now constitutes tlie State of" Iowa. At 
this period, 1778, the country about Burlington was 
claimed by France, and that government granted to 
the intrepid })ioneer a large tract of land which in- 
cluded the site of the now flourishing city of Dubuque. 
His purpose was, like that of most of the earliest pio- 
neers, to trade with the Indians for their furs, and his 
death occurred in 1810. 

In 1833, the first American settlers arrived here, after 
the Black Hawk Indians had ceded their lands by treaty 
to the United States. These settlers came mostly from 
Illinois and located on the spot then called "The 
Flint Hills," on which the city of Burlington now 
stands. Not a sintrle mark of civilization o-reeted 
these early settlers, if we except the trading-posr. of 
Julian Dubuque's successor, on the present site of the 
city named after him. The Mississippi was the west- 
ern limit of civilization, but the land of promise lay 
beyond. Unbroken forests swept from the heights of 
Flint Hills down to the river's edge, with here and 
there the solitary wigwam of an Indian who yet lin- 
gered on the spot he had bartered away to the white 
man. 

The city of Burlington, on the right bank of the 
Mississippi, is five hundred and thirty-six miles below 
Saint Paul, and two hundred and fifty above Saint 
Louis. Along the bank of the river and the valley of 
Hawkeye creek, the land is low, but back of this the 
site of the city is hilly to the height of two hundred 
feet, to the level of the prairie which stretches away to 
the west. The first settler on the site of Burlington was 
Samuel S. White, who built his cabin on what is now 
Front street, just below the lots on which the Sunder- 



278 DOWN THE GEE AT RIVER, 

land mills stand. White's brother-in-law, Doolittle, 
and others, joined him in 1834, and together they laid 
out the original town. John Grey, a Vermonter, a 
friend of White, gave the name of " Burlington " to 
the prospective town, in honor of the city of that 
name in his native State. The future Burlington com- 
prised then only a few log-cabins, and the first frame 
houses were erected by White and Doolittle in 1834.. 
In this year the first store was opened by Dr. Samuel 
S. Ross. The first brick house was built by Judge 
David Rorer, in 1836. 

In 1837, the population of the embryo city num- 
bered three hundred, and in February, 1838, Burling- 
ton was incorporated. On the twenty-eighth of Decem- 
ber, 1846, Iowa was admitted into the Union and 
John Lucas elected its first governor. Zion Church 
was used as a place of worship and State-house from 
the installation of the territorial government, in 1838,^ 
until the removal of the State capital to Iowa City. 
It stood on Third street, between Washington and 
Columbia streets, on the spot where now stands the 
magnificent Opera House, the pride of the Orchard 
City. " Old Zion '' is no more. 

Burlington's first school-house was erected in the 
year 1835; and its first saw-mill in 1837. Dr. Ross 
and Miss Matilda Morgan were the parties to the first 
wedding in 1833. The license and the preacher were 
obtained from Monmouth, Illinois, there being no terri- 
torial government at this time, and therefore no author- 
ity to perform the marriage ceremony on the west side 
of the river. The bridal company crossed in a scow 
and the knot was tied as they stood on the eastern 
bank, after which the guests returned to make merry 



DAVENPORT TO BUELINGTOJV 279 

at the wedding dinner. Frovii a population ot* three 
hundred in 1837, Burlington leaped to one of twenty 
thousand in 1880, an interval of only forty-three years, 
and at the present date (1885) it numbers at least 
twenty-eight thousand inhabitants. A considerable 
proportion of these are of German birth or descent, 
many of whom are nmong its most substantial and en- 
terprising citizens. 

Burlington is a city of the first-class, with a mayor 
and aldermen, a well -organized police force, fire de- 
partment, water-works, gas, street-cars, a fine public 
library, churches, public schools, two colleges, one of 
the best opera-houses in the West, a splendid boat-club 
house, and commerce, trade and manufactures of a 
character to warrant the belief of her citizens that in 
a few more years she will rank among the first of 
western cities. The private residences are exceedingly 
attractive in appearance, and nothing could be more 
beautiful than the view from those on the summit of 
Prospect Hill. Most of them are owned by their oc- 
cupants, whicn accounts for their neat and thrifty style 
and surroundings. The little park on North Hill is a 
delightful resort in the summer, with its fountain and 
walks and seats under the shade of the maples and 
elms. North of the Catholic Cemetery is Black Hawk 
Amphitheatre, with a great granite boulder in its centrcc 
Here, tradition says, the Sacs and Foxes assembled in 
council and determined the question of peace or war. 
The granite boulder was the rostrum from which 
Black Hawk appealed to his people when they rallied 
for the final struggle with the white man. 

The city of Burlington is favorably situated in the 
important matter of transpovU\iion facilities. With 



280 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

nine lines of railway radiating to all points of the com- 
pass she connects with Chicago, Cleveland, Cincinnati, 
and the South-east; with Saint Paul, Minneapolis and 
the North- west; and with Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, 
Colorado and Texas. She thus enjoys every advantage 
for developing her trade. The Mississippi also plays 
an important part as a means of transportation, large 
amounts of merchandise being brought here for dis- 
tribution. The levee is a very fine one, embracing a 
quarter of a mile of solid paved roadway, with a 
gradual slope, making the landing easy of access. The 
quantity of freight received and shipped by river is 
said to be rapidly increasing. Large rafts of lum- 
ber from up-river are received and landed at Burling- 
ton to be stored in the yards to dry, after which it is 
shipped by railway to various points in Iowa, Illinois, 
Missouri, Kansas, and Nebraska. The amount of 
lumber shipped from Burlington is a large item in her 
general trade. The smokestacks of the manufactories* 
are seen in all parts of the city. The Murray Iron 
Works are large and substantial buildings. The Bur- 
lington Plow Company, Wolfe's Furniture Factory, 
the Buffington Wheel Works, and many others, are 
fully up to the times in the character and amount of 
their products. 

The 0[)era House is a credit and an ornament to the 
city and is one of the finest constructed theatres in the 
West. It was opened in 1882, and cost one hundred 
thousand dollars. The Burlington Boat-club has 
been an important factor in promoting the improve- 
ment of the city. Its primary objects were to build 
and maintain a boat-house, purchase boats and pro- 
mote the art of rowing with a view to the improve- 



DA VENPOR T TO B TJRLING TON. 281 

ment of its members in manly exercise. But they have 
accomplished far more, and to them the city owes, in a 
great measure, the erection of its beautiful opera-house. 
They have a very handsome club-house which orna- 
ments the river approach to the city, and the members, 
besides extending their fame from Lake Minnetonka to 
Creve Cour Lake, have participated with honors in 
the regatta of the National Rowing Association at 
Washington. A large percentage of the muscle and 
blood of Burlington are numbered among its members, 
who are noted for their skill in aquatic contests and 
regattas occurring in the Mississippi Valley. 

A splendid iron bridge crosses the river at this 
point, built by the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Rail- 
road Company. It consists of nine spans and is about 
two thousand two hundred feet in length. There is also 
a commodious steam-ferry crossing the river to Hender- 
son, which is considered one of the finest on the Mis- 
sissippi. The Public Library occupies pleasant and 
well-arranged rooms on the north-west corner of Fourth 
and Jefferson streets. It has about seven thousand 
volumes on its shelves, which have cost over ten thou- 
sand dollars. The library originated in a liberal 
gift of five thousand dollars by the Hon. James W. 
Grimes. 

The educational interests of Burlington appear to 
have been carefully fostered, as evidenced by the public 
schools, the denominational schools, private schools, 
colleges and academies. The high-school building is 
a model of its kind. Burlington College, at the head 
of College Street, is surrounded by ample and orna- 
mented grounds, and is a select boarding and day 
school for young ladies and gentlemen. The Academy 



282 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

of Our Lady of Lourdes, on the corner of Fourth and 
Court streets, has a handsome building and accommo- 
dates about one hundred and twenty pupils. Several 
other public and private schools flourish here, and the 
poorest citizen can secure a good education for his 
children. 

The press of Burlington through one of its members, 
has carried the name and fame of this city into the re- 
motest corner of America; and across the ocean, on 
the news-stands of London, Liverpool^ Manchester, 
Birmingham and Glasgow^, it is found, and has given 
the city of its birth and growth a cosmopolitan char- 
acter which it will probably never lose. Esto peiyetua, 
"The Burlington Hawkeye ! " May thy witty and in- 
structive pages continue to delight our descendants as 
they have instructed and delighted U8. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 




BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 

Galt House, 
At Montrose, Iowa. 
September 28, 1881. 

'APA, wont you let me get into the canoe 
and go a little way with you and Mr. 
Paine this morning?^' These were the 
words that greeted ray ears as we were 
about to re-embark at Burlington. It had 
never occurred to us that any one, large or 
small, would covet the position of third person 
in the very limited space at our command, for the 
good reason that a casual glance forbade such a vent- 
ure ; but Alice being persistent in her request to try 
it, we lifted her into the canoe and pushed off. Find- 
ing that our staunch little craft was not overburdened, 
we headed down stream, and were soon making good 
progress towards Dallas, our noonday objective. The 
only other incident of the morning was our first ad- 
venture with a sand-bar. It would hardly appear that 
a boat so slight as to draw but five inches of water 
could be brought to a stand by such an obstruction, 
but such was the case, much to our chagrin and the 
great amusement of the passengers and crews of the 

(283) 



284 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

passing river steamers. The explanation is brief. A 
strong current throws the canoe or skiff upon the bar, 
and the voyager, not wishing to risk a wetting by 
stepping out of his boat and pushing or pulh'ng her off 
the bar, continues to use his paddle or oar aided by the 
current, which, instead of helping him out of his dif- 
ficulty, only renders his escape all the more impossible. 
After considerable moralizing and many experiments 
with our paddles, which did not materially improve 
the situation, captain and crew pulled off their boots 
and stepping out on the bar, carried the canoe and its 
solitary passenger into water of sufficient depth to 
float it. This occurrence on the sand-bar had no at- 
tractions for Paine or myself, but was greatly enjoyed 
by Alice, who exclaimed : "Oh, I am so glad, j)apa, for 
now I can remain with you so much the longer.^' 

Dallas was reached in season for dinner. This town 
is in Hancock County, Illinois, fifteen miles below 
Burlington on the opposite shore. It has a weekly 
paper, two banks and several factories. Population 
something over eight hundred. 

While at Dallas we were introduced to Dr. J. M. 
Lionberger and Mr. Benoni Mendenhall, who seemed 
to find much pleasure in pointing out the attractions 
of their village. I was indebted to Dr. Lionberger 
for the assurance that he would assume the responsi- 
bility of safely returning my daughter to Burling- 
ton. Parting with her at this place was the most 
trying experience that fell to my lot during our long 
voyage. Her desire to remain with us; the affectionate 
solicitiide expressed for me, and the reluctance with 
which she promised to return to school, were quite all 
I could bear. 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 285 

During our journey from Dallas to Montrose we 
observed on both banks of the river many graceful 
slopes, swelling and sinking, as far as the eye could 
reach. In some instances dense forests still cover these 
slopes with timber of the finest quality, the oak pre- 
vailing. Again, they revel in their carpet of green, 
dotted here and there with clumps of trees that it would 
baffle the skill of the landscape gardener to imitate; 
now crowning the grassy heights, now clothing the 
green fields with partial or isolated shade. 

The slopes and tlie rich alluvial bottoms that inter- 
vene furnish the sites for the numerous cities, towns 
and villages which stud the banks of the Father of 
Waters, like gems in this great sea of commerce. 

From the hill-to})s are seen cultivated meadows and 
rich pasture grounds, irrigated by numerous rivulets 
winding through fields of hay, fringed with flourish- 
ing willows. On the summit levels spread the rich 
farms of Iowa and Illinois, the long, undulating waves 
of the prairie stretching away until sky and meadow 
mingle in the wavy blue. Art, science and manufact- 
ures gather their busy multitudes here and take posses- 
sion of these sylvan scenes. As we glide along in our 
voyage towards the sea the ear is greeted by 

" The mill-stream's fall, 
The engine's pant along its quivering rails, 
The anvil's ring, the measured beat of flails, 
The sweep of scythes, the reaper's whistled tun% 
Answering the summons of the bells of noon; 
The woodman's hail along the river shores. 
The steamboat's signal, and the dip of oars." 

Among the chief objects of a noteworthy charactei 
which especially arrested our attention in this day's 
19 



'J86 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

journey were Nauvoo and the ruins of its Mormon 
Temple, which, on account of their peculiar history, 
claim more than a passing notice. 

Nauvoo, the "City of Beauty," situated on the eastern 
bank of the Mississippi, about midway on the western 
boundary of the State of Illinois, has an eventful his- 
tory. It is to-day a small village composed of a few 
houses at a short distance from the ruins of the once mag- 
nificent Mormon Temple. The village is located upon 
one of the most lovely sites on the river, the ground 
rising with a gentle slope to a wide plateau at the 
summit, which overlooks the river and opposite coun- 
try for many miles. In 1840 the spot, where subse- 
quently the town was built, became a refuge for the 
Mormons, who were fleeing from the persecutions of 
an angry mob. A branch of the Mormon community 
had early been located in Jackson County, Missouri. 
According to an alleged revelation given to Josejih 
Smith, their pseudo prophet, that locality was the very 
spot on which "Adam's altar was built, in the centre 
of the Giirden of Eden ! " They had not been, ac- 
cording to the report, wholly desirable citizens and 
neighbors, and the inhabitants at last expelled them. 
Zion fell into the hands of the Gentiles, and while 
some of the Mormons returned to Kirtland, Ohio, 
others settled in Clay County, Illinois. 

For several years they remained in this county un- 
molested, and even made many converts. In 1837, 
the bank of Kirtland having failed, Smith, Rigdon 
and others joined the Missouri settlement. A spirit 
of insubordination had sprung up in this community. 
There were contentions among those within, and quar- 
rels with tiiose without, and for three years a genej'al 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 287 

excitement prevailed in the State. The Mormons 
came into frequent collision with their Gentile neigh- 
bors, and many persons were killed. The "Saints" 
openly defied the people who were not of their belief, 
and, with zeal begotten of fanaticism, even threatened 
to march upon Saint Louis and lay it in ashes. 

Rumors now circulated among the people generally 
regarding the immoral practices of the leaders. Polyg- 
amy had not yet become a recognized doctrine of their 
church, 'and was even expressly forbidden by the 
"Book of Mormon." Finally, the disfavor in which 
they were held by the unbelievers in their religion 
culminated, and in November the entire people of the 
Mormon settlement were compelled to flee for their 
lives towards the Mississippi. Young and old, the 
sick and infirm, helpless women and children as well 
as strong men, twelve thousand in number, exposed to 
cold and hunger and every privation, at last found a 
temporary resting-place upon the western bank of the 
Great River. 

The people of Illinois, on the opposite side, believ- 
ing that the persecution was unjust to which the Mor- 
mons had been so ruthlessly subjected, extended help 
to them, and invited them to the shore of their State. 
Crossing the river, they pitched their tents upon a rich 
delta formed by the Des Moines and Mississippi rivers, 
and thus the town of Nauvoo was founded. 

The believers soon built themselves rude log-huts, 
while they gave freely of their scant means for the 
erection of a temple, which was designed to excel in 
magnificence every other religious edifice in the world. 
This temple eventually coj^t them over five hundred 
thousand dollars, and was built of polished limestone. 



288 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

It was one hundred and thirty feet long by eighty- 
eight wide ; sixty-five feet to the cornice, and with a 
cupola one hundred and sixty-three feet in height. The 
weather-vane on the summit of the spire represented the 
figure of a prophet blowing a trumpet. An immense 
stone basin, supported by twelve colossal oxen, formed 
the baptistery, which was in the basement. The plan of 
the temple was revealed to Joseph Smith, according to 
his statement, and the corner-stone was laid on April 
sixth, 1841. 

They were allowed to dwell in quiet in their new 
home ; but to prepare for future contingencies. Smith 
organized a military corps, which he called the !N^auvoo 
Legion, and of which he assumed command with the 
rank of lieutenant-general. On parade the prophet 
appeared at the head of his Legion, followed by half a 
dozen females on horseback, dressed in black velvet 
riding-habits, with long white plumes on their hats. 

At Nauvoo was first given the alleged revelation 
concerning "spiritual wives,'^ which finally culminated 
in open polygamy. This and other objectionable prac- 
tices of the "Saints" fell under condemnation. The 
people of Illinois, like those of Missouri, felt scandal- 
ized. Smith attempted to check the rising storm by 
contradictions, denunciations and excommunications. 
But those who thus fell under his displeasure de- 
nounced him in turn. A newspaper was established 
at Nauvoo in acknowledged opposition to him, and 
charged him with all the crimes of which he had ac- 
cused others. By his orders the paper was suppressed, 
the printing material destroyed, and the editors were 
compelled to flee for their lives. The latter entered 
complaint at Carthage for the violence done them, and 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 28 & 

warrants were issued for the arrest of Joseph Smith 
and his brother Hiram. The faithful rallied around 
their prophet and resisted the officers sent to serve the 
warrants. The city was fortified and the Legion slept 
under arms. 

The governor of the State personally interfered and 
persuaded the Smiths to surrender, on the assurance 
that they should receive protection and justice. They 
were accordingly arrested and placed in Carthage jail. 
But a new charge was brought against them, that of 
treason against the Government, and it was rumored 
that through the connivance of the governor they 
were permitted to make their escape. The people be- 
came panic-stricken and vowed that " if law could not 
reach them, powder and shot should." 

On the evening of the twenty -seventh of Jute, 1844, 
the jail of Carthage was forcibly entered by a mob, 
armed and disguised. Hiram Smith was shot dead in 
his cell, and Joseph was mortally wounded as, he was 
attempting to leap from a window. Placing him 
against the wall of the jail, four muskets at once put 
an end to his life. The executioners were never 
identified. 

Smith was at once magnified into a martyr, and his 
blood became the "seed of the church," which has in- 
creased in numbers from that day to this. Brigham 
Young was elected by the ^" College of Apostles," of 
which he was president, to succeed Smith as the head 
of their church, and the new chief promptly excom- 
municated E-igdon and others who had aspired to the 
position. Young moderated the vengeance of the Mor- 
mons, and peace seemed again to be about settling on 
the community, when Eigdon and the other recreants 



290 DOWI^ THE GREAT RIVER. 

spread reports of crime and debauchery at Nauvoo 
from one section of the country to the other. The 
smaller Mormon settlements, off-shoots of that at Nau- 
voo, were promptly attacked by armed mobs, and the 
same fate would doubtless have befallen the larger 
place had not a " special revelation " been received 
commanding the immediate departure of the Saints to 
the then remote West on the Missouri River, near 
Council BlufiPs. 

In February, 1846, sixteen hundred men, women 
and children crossed the Mississippi on the ice, on foot 
and in ox-teams, for the new Land of Promise. Others 
followed them as soon as property could be disposed 
of and arrangements made. A command was, how- 
ever, said to have been received from Heaven for them 
to remain for the completion and dedication of the 
Temple. But the mob became impatient and attacked 
the city. The Legion held it at bay whilethe Temple 
was completed and dedicated. The baptistery was fes- 
tooned with flowers; the walls decorated with symbolic 
ornaments ; lamps and torches glittered ; prayers were 
uttered and chants were sung, and thus the dedication 
was completed. 

In an hour afterwards the portal was closed and an 
inscription placed upon it: "The House of the Lord! 
Built by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day 
Saints. Holiness to the Lord ! " and the Saints were 
already making their way across the Mississippi. The 
last of the Mormons were, in September of the same 
year, driven from their homes at the point of the 
bayonet. 

Thirty months after its consecration the Temple was 
destroyed by fire at midnight. It was afterwards 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCT. 29] 

nrtially restored, but in May, 1850, was cast into a 
_eap of ruins by a tornado, which also laid the town 
low. The place fell into the hands of a colony of 
Icarian Socialists from Paris, under M. Cahet, who 
practised a sort of community life, but failed to attain 
that temporal prosperity which is not infrequently the 
result of such a system. 

Thus concludes all that is of interest in the history 
of Nauvoo, though it is but the beginning of the his- 
tory of the Mormons, who, driven from place to place, 
at last established themselves in the lap of the Rocky 
Mountains; a history full of romance and literally 
stranger than fiction, which has become interwoven 
with that of the Nation. 

So much of absorbing interest had been observed 
and commented upon at Dallas, Nauvoo and other 
points along the route from Burlington that we did 
not reach our evening destination until nearly eight 
o'clock. We were glad indeed to get out of the canoe 
and get into our hotel, where, after supper, I wrote up 
my log for the day, and gathered from the best author- 
ities I could find some information concerning Mont- 
rose, which is claimed by many of its citizens to be 
the oldest town in the State. 

It is on the west bank of the Mississippi, in Lee 
County, Iowa, forty miles south-east of Burlington, 
and twelve north of Keokuk. It is connected with 
Nauvoo by ferry, and is reported to have a population 
of a little less than a thousand. Its people are engaged 
largely in the preparation of lumber. The Chicago, 
Burlington, and Quincy E-ailroad runs through it and 
has a station here. 



292 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

Laclede House, 

A t Keokuk , Towa^ 
September Twenty-ninth. 

"Look out for the Keokuk Rapids!'' was the last 
injunction we received before leaving Montrose in the 
morning. In fact this had been our usual warning 
for several days whenever we appeared on shore, until 
we had come to think some terrible ordeal ftwaited us. 
So far, we had found but three of Nature's obstructions 
in the descent of the river, which we had overcome by 
having recourse to a portage; these, it will be remem- 
bered, were the Kah-a-hih-ons, a few miles below 
Lake Itasca, Pokegama Falls, below Lake Winiii- 
begoshish, and the Falls of Saint Anthony. Some 
kindly disposed persons suggested that we should have 
the canoe carried down to Keokuk at the foot of the 
rapids on a wagon ; while others advised a passage 
through the Government Ship Canal on the Iowa 
shore. Having run all the rapids of the Great River 
thus far, we were not inclined to make an exception 
of these if their descent was compatible with ordinary 
safety ; and further, we did not care to be subjected to 
the inconvenience and delay of locking through the 
canal, or the seemingly unnecessary trouble and ex- 
pense of a long portage. Inquiry at Montrose had 
elicited the following information : length of rapids, 
twelve miles; fall of water, twenty -four feet; occasional 
obstructions throughout entire length. 

On reaching the head of the rapids we encountered 
what we had long since learned to anticipate almost 
regularly at ten o'clock in the morning, namely, a 



BURLINGTON TO QUJNCY. 29a 

strong southerly wind, and in consequence a disturbed 
surface. So determined was the resistance offered by 
the wind that, instead of dashing down the rapids at 
" break-neck pace," as had been predicted by our 
friends, it was only by dint of a spirited use of our 
paddles that any perceptible progress was made in the 
canoe. There was greater danger of going to the bot- 
tom through the action of the waves than by contact 
with obstructions in the bed of the river. Paine, who 
used the double paddle, became so thoroughly ex- 
hausted that we were compelled to disembark about 
three miles above Keokuk. After resting half an 
hour we again pushed off, finding the elements still in 
possession. Another hour of persistent struggle against 
the high wind and a rough sea enabled us to reach the 
landing at Keokuk, between two and three o'clock, glad 
indeed to be out of rano^e of the boisterous wind and 
rapids, which together fought us with such determina- 
tion that we made but twelve miles in four hours of the 
hardest work that we had up to this point recorded. 

The following tradition connected with the early 
history of the "Gate City" is generally accepted on 
the spot as true in outline if not in detail. 

Dr. Samuel C. Miner, of the United States army, 
came to Warsaw, Illinois, in the year 1820, and built 
himself a log shanty on the corner of Main street and 
the levee. He soon found that it was " not good for 
mall to be alone," and formed an attachment for the 
daughter of an Indian chief, which in these rude times, 
and the absence of church or legal functionaries, was 
unsanctioned by any marriage ceremony, except, we 
may presume, the primitive one of mutual consent. 
This woman bore him five children. But an order came 



294 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

at length from the War Department winch suddenly 
dissolved the union by requiring all array officers and 
attaches to separate themselves from the Indian females 
with whom they were living in marital relations, and 
the doctor was removed to Piick-e-she-tuck, or " Foot 
of the Rapidsj" now known as Keokuk. Here he died 
of cholera in 1832, having been the first white resident 
of the future city. In the meantime the American 
Fur Company had established a trading-post, erecting 
several log-cabins on a spot now known by the eupho- 
nious title of " Rat Row/' and large accessions to the 
settlement follow^ed in a short time. The first, however, 
to settle here, after Dr. Miner, was Moses Stillwell and 
his family. Then the fur company and its employes 
came, after one of whom, Joshua Palean, a street in 
the city is named. The employes of the company all 
took Indian wives, and thereby rendered themselves 
very popular with the natives. The population grew 
rapidly, but the fur company, for reasons of its 
own, determined to remove. They were succeeded by 
Isaac R. Campbell and Samuel C. Muir, who occupied 
4;heir buildings and continued their trade of supplying 
the Indians and whites with the necessaries of life. 
"Rat Row" at this period comprised nearly the whole 
of the settlement, and included hotel, church, court- 
house, grocery and saloon. Up to this time — 1835 — 
the settlement had been without a distinctive name, 
being known as " Foot of the Rapids," or its Indian 
equivalent, Puck-e-she-tnck. Finally, some steam- 
boat men proposed to name it Keohuh, after the 
friendly chief of the Sacs, and this name was ulti- 
mately adopted. 

In the spring of 1837 a village was laid out by 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 295 

Dr. Isaac Gallaiid, agent of the New York Land Com- 
pany, and was formally inaugurated and recorded as 
"Keokuk." In 1840 the main portion of Keokuk 
was a dense forest, and about a dozen log-cabins were 
sufficient for the settlers. In 1847 the census gave 
the population as six hundred and twenty. Keokuk 
was incorporated as a city in December of this year, 
and was governed by a mayor and aldermen. The first 
school was opened by a shoemaker, named Jesse Cray- 
ton, in 1833, who taught his few pupils and made 
shoes for the villagers, without detriment to his trade 
or his profession. 

Keokuk is called the "Gate City,'' from its position 
at the foot of the rapids and near the mouth of the 
Des Moines River. It is situated about two hundred 
miles above Saint Louis, and is about the same distance 
from Chicago; stands on a high and commanding site 
and is surrounded by a very productive country. The 
population at present is about twenty-two thousand. 
As evidence of its good sanitary condition, the bluffs 
in its vicinity were known, it is said, among the In- 
dians as the "Medicine Ground." The city possesses 
the requisites of a substantial prosperity, its location 
giving it many advantages. A fine iron bridge spans 
the Mississippi at this point, combinhig a railroad, 
wagon road and a foot bridge, which contributes; 
doubtless, to a considerable extent, to the trade of 
the city. Another substantial bridge crosses the Des 
Moines River, and adds largely to the business interests 
of Keokuk. The Government Canal is a grand work, 
by means of which the dangers arising from rocks and 
shoals in the rapids, that formerly interfered witli 
navigation, are entirely obviated, and large vessels pass 



296 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

through in perfect safety on their way up and down 
the river. The cost of the canal to the Government 
was nearly four million dollars. The largest steam- 
boats find ample room at Keokuk for loading and dis- 
charging freight and passengers. A great inducement 
to manufacturers to locate here is the valuable water- 
power created by the Des Moines rapids, and there can 
be little doubt that in due time this force will be taken 
advantage of and Keokuk become an important manu- 
facturing centre. 

One of the national cemeteries is located in this city, 
It is beautifully laid out and well kept, with marble 
headstones on which are inscribed the names of the 
soldiers who died during the Civil War in the Keokuk 
Government Hospital. Extensive waterworks and 
an effective fire-department have been provided 
since 1875. There are over ten miles of water-mains, 
and fifteen miles of macadamized streets, with good 
side-walks sheltered from the sun in summer by the 
foliage of countless shade-trees. The city contains a 
free public library with nine hundred volumes, for 
which a very handsome building has been provided. 
There are over twenty churches of all denominations, 
and eight school buildings with an enrolment of over 
two thousand pupils. There is also a well-appointed 
street railway, and a beautiful park has been opened 
for the exercise and recreation of the citizens. Another 
feature of Keokuk is an artesian well, throwing a 
barrel of water a minute, the exterior of which is 
highly ornamental. 

The Buckeye Foundry and Machine-Shops were 
established here in 1849, and employ a considerable 
number of men in the manufacture of steam-engines, 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 297 

mill machinery, all kinds of castings, car-wheels, etc. 
A plow factory, also employing many hands, and a 
barb-wire factory, have been located here since 1875, 
and other manufactures are destined to follow in their 
wake. 

The situation of Keokuk at the foot of the rapids 
has made her a port of considerable importance for 
steamboats, which carry large quantities of grain and 
other freight every season to Saint Louis and southern 
ports on the river. Steamers touch here daily, some 
bound through from Saint Paul, and others stopping 
at Keokuk to discharge and take on freight and pas- 
sengers. The fair-grounds are located at a convenient 
distance from the city, are well inclosed and contain a 
fine-art hall, mechanical and agricultural halls, amphi- 
theatre, dining-rooms and every convenience for the 
exhibition of stock. Seven railroads centre here, thus 
offering every facility for transport and travel. 

Prominent among the educational institutions of the 
city is the College of Physicians and Surgeons, of the 
practical success of which the citizens have much to say. 
The building is a fine structure and occupies a central 
position in the city. The oldest daily newspaper in 
Keokuk, The Gate City, is an enterprising and wide- 
awake sheet. The daily Constitution^ the leading 
Democratic organ, has a large and increasing circu- 
lation. 

Keokuk, though small in comparison with some 
cities on the river, has broad thoroughfares, handsome 
and substantial buildings, occupies a beautiful locality, 
and her citizens are justly proud of the progress she 
has made since the day of Dr. Samuel C. Miner and 
his Indian princess. 



298 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Private Kesidence 

At Gregory , Missouri 
September Thirtieth. 

Wind up stream, with occasional showers in the 
morning. Remained at Keokuk until four o'clock in 
tlie afternoon, when, finding the weather favorable, we 
floated down to the mouth of the Des Moines River. 
This is the largest river of Iowa, and is formed by the 
junction of two branches, known as the East and West 
Forks, which rise in a chain of small lakes in south- 
western Minnesota, and, flowing in a south-easterly 
direction, unite in Humboldt County, Iowa. From 
this junction it flows south-east, through the central 
portion of the State, to its confluence with the Missis- 
sippi, four miles below Keokuk. In its course of three 
hundred miles the Des Moines drains ten thousand 
square miles in Iowa, passing through an undulating, 
fertile region, interspersed with tracts of prairie, rich in 
coal and abounding in timber. Many flourishing towns 
have sprung up along its banks, among which is Des 
?^Ioines, the capital of the State. Thf^ principal tribu- 
taries from the west are the North, Middle, South and 
Racoon rivers. The largest eastern branch is the 
Boone, which rises in Hancock County. 

Our object in moving from Keokuk at so late an 
hour was not to insure better accommodations, but to 
sleep on the soil of Missouri, place another State at our 
backs, and subtract at least twelve miles from the 
balance of our seaward journey. We found nothing 
at Gregory worthy of attention except a supper, lodg- 
ing and breakfast, if we omit numberless mud-holes, 
caused by overflows of the river. 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 29^ 

0n)£nt^-Beconlr TDag. 

Tremont House, 

Quiney, Illinois. 

October First. 

We shook the mnd of Gregory from our feet at 
eight o'clock in the morning, and stepping into the 
Alice started for Quiney. Weather warm and cloudy, 
with mercury at 85° in the shade. Met several 
steamers which were evidently on their way to points 
on the Upper Mississippi. . A large flock of pelicans 
were seen a few miles below Gregory, presenting a wall 
of white as they stood in line on the beach a few hun- 
dred yards in advance of us. Paine fired at them witn 
his revolver, but without apparent eifect, except to 
frighten them away. 

Went ashore at Canton, Missouri. This town ia 
twenty-two miles below Keokuk, and one hundred 
and ninety-one above Saint Louis. It has a national 
bank, a weekly paper, several flour and lumber mills, 
and claims a population of between three and four 
thousand. On returning to the landing we found a 
large crowd admiring our canoe. One said: "Ain't 
she a daisy ? '' Another remarked : " I reckon that 
trick cost a heap of money ! '' A speculative bystander 
inquired: "How much will you take for her, colonel?" 
These were the first provincialisms we had noted since 
leaving the Chippewa country, and we were not a little 
amused by their oddity. 

Dined at Lagrange, a pleasant village of Lewis 
County, Missouri, eight miles below Canton and twelve 
above Q,uincy. Here we found a college, a savings' 
bank and a >%'eekly paper. 



300 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Quincy, the "Gem City" and the capital of Adams 
County, is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi. 
It stands on a limestone bluff, one hundred and twenty- 
five feet above the river, commanding a most ])ic- 
turesqueview of the country for several miles, and has 
one of the best steamboat-landings to be found on the 
Mississippi. It is one hundred and sixty miles above 
Saint Louis, and ninety -five west of Springfield, the 
capital of the State. 

Quiiicy saw the first white settler establish himself 
as a trader with the Indians in the year 1822. It was 
not long before others followed, and in 1825 a town 
was laid out, which in 1834 had attained sufficient 
growth and importance to be incorporated. It received 
its charter as a city in 1839, and now ranks in popula- 
tion as the second city in the State of Illinois. It is 
regularly laid out and well built, paved, watered and 
lighted ; the business blocks being chiefly of brick, 
well designed and substantial. The city has an exten- 
sive river traffic; a splendid railroad bridge across the 
Mississipj>i ; four well proportioned parks, providing 
convenient breathing-places for the citizens, who crowd 
them in the warm summer evenings; a fine fair-ground, 
covering about eighty acres ; many elegant public and 
private edifices; numerous manufactories, employing 
about four thousand operatives, and producing an- 
nually $10,000,000 worth of goods. Lines of horse- 
cars traverse the leading thoroughfares. Many of the 
private residences are spacious, elegantly and taste^ 
fully planned, and surrounded by well-kept and very 
beautiful grounds. Quincy has thirty churches; four 
daily, one tri-woekly and seven weekly papers of dif- 
ferent shades of politics Two hospitals and three 



BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 301 

asylums are among the benevolent institutions pro- 
vided by the city for those in need of treatment. It 
has a medical college of great value to the people ; 
several academies and seminaries, besides the public 
schools, which are nine in number, including a high 
school, a grammar school, and intermediate and pri. 
mary departments; the number of pupils in these being 
about three thousand. A good city library is also 
provided for the intellectual enjoyment of the citizens. 
Two national and two other banks; a fine grain ele- 
vator, and a large business in pork-packing and ice- 
collecting; thirteen carriage and wagon manufactories; 
eight iron foundries; eleven brickyards and eleven 
flour-mills attest the commercial and manufacturing 
importance af the *^ Gem City ; " which has also an 
efficient police force and a well-organized fire depart- 
ment. The present population of Quincy is estimated 
at over thirty thousand. 
20 




CHAPTER XXIV. 

QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 

Pbivate Residence, 

Ha nnibal, Mi ssouri^ 

October 2-4, 1881. 

T was the custom of the voyage to spend 
our Sundays in town, but having ar- 
1^ ranged to meet my wife at Hannibal we 
were again on the water at ten o'clock in 
the morning, and, at the end of three hours, 
had reached our destination, twenty miles 
below Quincy. At Hannibal we remained three 
days in the enjoyment of some approach to do- 
mestic comfort. The change was a welcome relief to 
both Paine and myself, and it was not without some 
reluctance we renewed our acquaintance with the Alice. 
This staunch little craft had, however, carried us thus 
far in safety, and, with confidence in her virtues be- 
gotten of experience, we again committed ourselves to 
her care. 

Hannibal is a busy commercial city in Marion 
County, Missouri, on the west side of the river, one 
hundred and forty-four miles above Saint Louis. Its 
favorable position and extensive railroad connections 
have contributed largely to its rapid growth and pros- 
perity, the latter being clearly indicated by the large 
(302) 



QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 393 

number of fine residences on the surrounding slopes. 
The Mississippi is crossed here by a splendid iron 
bridge adapted for railroad, wagon and passenger 
travel. The city is rapidly increasing in extent and 
importance, and is the supply-point for large quantities 
of tobacco, pork, flour and other produce. The lead- 
ing trade is in lumber with other parts of the State, as 
well as with Kansas and Texas, and it claims to be 
one of the most extensive lumber markets on the 
western bank of the Mississippi. The manufactories 
include iron foundries, car-shops, machine-shops, sev- 
eral large tobacco works, beef-curing establishments, 
saw-mills, flour-mills, and the lumber yards are fifteen 
in number. Coal and limestone abornd in the vicinity, 
and the manufacture of lime is a prominent industry. 
It possesses a city hall, a Catholic seminary, several 
good public schools, including a high school, and daily 
and weekly newspapers. Hannibal College was estab- 
lished in 1868, under the auspices of the Methodist 
Episcopal Church, South, and is in a flourishing con- 
dition. The present population is about fifteen thou- 
sand, and everything about the city wears the aspect 
of industrial prosperity. 

Grant Hotel, 

Cincinnati^ Illinois^ 

October Fifth. 

I should fail to interest the reader were I to attempt 
a description of some of the villages and hamlets passed 
in the descent of the Mississippi. Many of these places 
do not possess even a local interest, and the eye soon 
wearies of the air of desolation and monotony that 



304 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

characterizes the majority of them. The guide-books 
dispose of these doubtful landmarks with a little dry 
detail, and rarely recommend the tourist to allot them 
the compliment of a passing notice. 

One peculiarity, however, may be noted, and that is 
the ambition displayed by the pioneers of civilization 
in the West in naming villages and hamlets, which, 
with few exceptions, are still of little importance, aftei 
the great cities of the Eastern States, and also of foreign 
lands. These names, which occupy such prominence 
on the maps, excite the curiosity of the traveler, and 
when the reality dawns upon him, and he scans their 
narrow limits, their commonplace architecture and 
usually unattractive surroundings, it has a depressing 
effect, and he wonders, after all, if there is anything in 
a name. We find upon the map the name and indica- 
tion of a city, but it proves on acquaintance to be the 
most uninteresting of hamlets, though bearing so re- 
spectable a name as that of " Cincinnati." 

0ex)ent2-0et)cutl] SBag. 

Cap Au Gris House, 

Cap Au Gris, Missouri^ 

October Sixth. 

We had resolved upon an early start from " Cincin- 
nati," but from six to eight o'clock everything was 
enveloped in a dense fog, which gradually disappeared 
as the day advanced. At nine o'clock we pushed off 
and found the weather favorable, as is usually the case 
on the river after heavy fogs. 

Disembarked at Clarksville, on the west or Missouri 
side, where we had an excellent dinner at a restaurant, 
and then walked through the town, which we discovered 



QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 305 

to be a place of some enterprise. It is forty miles be- 
low Hannibal, and one hundred and two above Saint 
Louis. We noticed a bank, several flour-mills, and 
other factories. 

Hamburg, Illinois, and Falmouth, Missouri, were 
seen, but from their appearance from the river we con= 
eluded they were great only in name. 

It had been our aim to make a landing by seven 
o'clock, but becoming somewhat confused by a cluster 
of islands a few miles below Falmouth, knowing noth- 
ing of the river or country in our front, and moreover, 
completely enshrouded in darkness, we were, for nearly 
two hours, in a most unenviable position. To cap the 
climax, as we were passing the last island of the group, 
a large steamer was sighted coming up the river at a 
high rate of speed. This circumstance gave us con- 
siderable anxiety for a time, as we were unable to di- 
vine \Yhether her course would be to the right or left 
of the island. Dropping the paddles across the canoe, 
we carefully watched the movements of this "midnight 
apparition," as she came tearing along unmindful of 
the peril to which she exposed two anxious canoeists 
but a few yards ahead of her. A flash of lightning 
revealed to us that our present adversary was none 
other than our old up-river acquaintance, the Gem Cityj 
presumably on her way to Saint Paul. It was a beau- 
tiful thing — this river giant with her red, green and 
electric lights — beautiful to look upon, though, under 
the circumstances of our relative positions, not particu- 
larly inspiriting to the captain and crew of the Alice, 
who were greatly relieved when they found themselves 
rocking in the wake of her huge sidewheels. 

It was now after eight o'clock, and the thought 



306 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

Uppermost in our minds was where we could effect a 
landing and secure lodging, for the current was so strong 
and the banks so steep and crumbling in this quarter 
as to render disembarking exceedingly precarious. 
At last a glimmering light was discovered, apparently 
at a farm-house on the west bank, which we straight- 
way attempted to reach, but making a miscalculation a» 
to the strength of the current, which was very power- 
ful, were carried a considerable distance below, striking 
the shore a few yards above another farm-house on the 
jsame side. Everything now seemed favorable, but it 
was only an illusion. On approaching the house we 
were met by a rough-looking man and two or three 
boys, accompanied by several dogs — the man armed 
with a shot-gun. Our sudden and unseasonable ap- 
pearance on his premises had aroused suspicion, and 
we were bluntly told that he had no accommodation 
for "river tramps." We endeavored to explain, but 
to no purpose. It appeared that a party of highway- 
men had been captured some days previously on the 
islands opposite his farm, and this circumstance un- 
doubtedly prompted him in repeating that he had no 
lodgings for strangers. Money was of course tendered, 
but refused. The only advantage gained from this 
interview was the cheering information that Cap Au 
Gris was fifteen miles below I 

Returning to our canoe we pushed off, resolved upon 
another effort to pass the remainder of the night on 
shore. Soon a light was seen in a bend on the Illinois 
side ; crossing the river, we found an easy landing and 
hastened up to farm-house " ISTo. 3." Here we found 
more men and fewer dogs than on the Missouri side ; 
but after some minutes' parley it became evident that 



QUIXCr TO SAINT LOUTS. 397 

our mission was fruitless, for the same reason appar- 
ently as that which had influenced our Missouri friend, 
and we again returned reluctantly to our canoe, de- 
termined to keep a sharp look-out for Cap Au Gris, 
which, to our great joy, was reached a few minutes be- 
fore twelve o'clock. 

Wii will not say anything of Cap Au Gris that is 
likely to make its enlightened citizens feel uncomfort- 
able. We were glad to reach its hospitable shores 
after several hours of peril and to receive a welcome at 
its leading " liotel." Let us simply say, therefore, 
that it stands on the banks of the mighty Mississippi. 
It is to be hoped it will always stand there. But it 
occurred to the writer — from the rapidity with which 
the river is now cutting down its banks — that its 
scattered remains will soon be found not far from 
the Gulf of Mexico. 

Empire House, 

Alton, Illinois, 

October Seventh. 

Although we did not retire to our rooms at Cap 
Au Gris until after midnight, we had an early break- 
fast, for there was much to be seen and noted in our 
journey to Alton. The mouth of the Illinois River 
was passed between ten and eleven o'clock. We had 
very naturally looked forward to the confluence of this 
tributary with the Mississippi as one of the events in 
our voyage; for it was here, two hundred years ago, 
that the illustrious La Salle and his heroic followers 
firht beheld the Great River, in which their higheit 
hopes for New France were centred. 



S08 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

The Illinois, whose entire course is through the 
State of the same name, is formed by the junction of 
the Kankakee and Des Plaines rivers in Grundy 
County, about forty-five miles south-west of Lake 
Michigan. It passes Peoria, the most important city 
on its banks ; Pekin, Havana, Beardstown, and 
Naples; and enters the Mississippi between Calhoun 
and Jersey counties, twenty miles above the mouth of 
the Missouri. It is about five hundred miles long, 
and is navigable for two hundred and forty-five. 
Water communication between the great lakes and the 
Mississippi is aiforded by a canal, reaching from the 
mouth of the Vermilion, a tributary of the Illinois in 
La Salle County — where the latter is obstructed by 
rapids — to Chicago, a distance of ninety-six miles. 

Here it may be stated that the name of this State 
was formerly bestowed upon all that vast tract of 
country which lies north and west of the Ohio, and 
was derived from the Illini, or Illinois, a tribe which 
possessed the country on the banks of the Illinois 
River. The name is said by Hennepin to signify a 
full-grown man. The first settlements within the 
present limits of the State were made by the French. 
La Salle set out from Canada on his adventurous en- 
terprise in search of the Mississippi in the year 1680, 
in company with Father Hennepin, and descended the 
Illinois River from its source. He then returned to 
Canada, and in 1682 came back with a number of 
volunteers and founded the settlement of Kaskaskia — 
now included in Randolph County — and others. At 
the commencement of the eighteenth century these 
settlements are said to have been in a flourishing 
condition. 



QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 30 

At the conclusion of hostilities between the French 
and English in 1763, the Illinois country, with 
Canada, was ceded to the British Government. In 
1778, during the Revolutionary War, the Virginia 
militia made an incursion through the Indian country 
and subjugated Kaskaskia and other posts of the Brit- 
ish on the Mississippi; and during the same year the 
Legislature of Virginia organized a county in this re- 
mote region, called "Illinois." This territory was 
afterwards ceded by Virginia to the United States. 
In 1800, it was included within the limits of Indiana 
Territory, and at that time the country that forms the 
present State of Illinois contained about three thou- 
sand inhabitants. After the year 1800, the popula- 
tion increased rapidly from immigration. In 1809 a 
territorial government was established, and the popu- 
lation the following year amounted to over twelve 
thousand. In 1818, Illinois was received into the 
Union as the twenty-second State. 

Nature has given this great State immense aavan- 
tages for inland navigation. On its northern borders 
it has, for some distance, the waters of Lake Michigan. 
On its north-west frontier, it has Rock River, a 
tributary of the Mississippi. On its whole western 
front it is washed by the Mississippi, and on its 
southern by the Ohio. On the east it is bounded by 
the Wabash. Through its centre winds, in one di- 
rection, the Illinois ; and in another direction the Kas- 
kaskia flows through the State ; and such is the inter- 
section of Illinois by its boatable streams, that no 
town in it is far from a point of river communication 
either with Lake Michigan, the Mississippi, the Ohio, 
or the Illinois. The Mississippi forms the western 



310 DOWN THE GREAT lilVER. 

boundary of the State through its whole length from 
north to south, a distance, by. the curvatures of the 
stream, of not far from six hundred miles. 

From the mouth of the Illinois, whose waters 
seemed to make little impression on the majestic river 
on which we were floating, we paddled down to the 
city of Alton, a distance of twenty miles. Here we 
found convenient accommodation while waiting up our 
notes of the journey. 

In the year 1807, some Frenchmen from Saint 
Louis, erected a small building on this spot. They 
traded with the Indians, and the solitary building 
combined store, office and residence for these pioneers 
during several months of succeeding years, until, in 
1817, the site was selected for a town, and named 
Alton. It is situated on the left bank of the Missis- 
sippi about twenty -four miles above Saint Louis. In 
1870, the population of Alton comprised eight thou- 
sand eight hundred and sixty-five souls, and at pres- 
ent is about ten thousand. The city is long and nar- 
row — its length along the river being nearly three 
miles and its average breadth only one mile and a half. 

Alton is divided about its centre by a stream called 
Piasa Creek, which has its source in several springs 
within the city limits. This stream is arched over 
and is used as a main sewer. 

The chief seats of business are found in the valley 
of this stream, and in the bottom lauds along the Mis- 
sissippi. Irregular bluffs, the highest being about two 
hundred and twenty-five feet above the river, raise their 
heads on each side of the valley, and give a picturesque 
appearance to the scenery. The city is built on the 
limestone rock, which is honeycombed with numerous 



QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 311 

caves, and along the banks of the river the rock forms 
perpendicular bluifs. 

A rich farming country surrounds Alton. Three rail- 
roads and the river connect it with all parts of the coun- 
try, and manufactories of various kinds are abundant. 
Among these are iron-foundries, woolen-mills, flour- 
mills, glass-works, a castor-oil-mill, planing-mills, 
several lumber-yards and steam saw-mills, and agri- 
cultural implement factories. Lime and building 
stone of a very superior quality, are largely exported 
from Alton. A steam-ferry conveys passengers and 
freight to the opposite shore of the river. A large 
Roman Catholic Cathedral and several churches of 
the various denominations of Protestants are con- 
spicuous objects throughout the city. The State Pen- 
itentiary, established here in 1827, was removed some 
years since to Joliet. The buildings are still in ex- 
istence and were utilized during the Rebellion as a 
government prison of war. 




CHAPTER XXV. 

THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 

Trip from Alton — In and Aj-ound the Oity. 

WO much has been said by early and recent 
travelers concerning the turbulent char- 
acter of the Missouri, the greatest tribu- 
)^ tary of the Father of Waters, that he 
who approaches its mouth for the first time 
in a frail skiff or canoe expects, if not well 
on his guard, to be sent whirling to the bottom 
— his effects mingling with the muddy current 
of the river. Imagine, therefore, our surprise, on 
reaching the confluence of these giants of running 
streams, to see them peacefully unite their mighty 
floods, creating scarcely a ripple on the surface ! One 
cannot fail to be impressed with the majesty of the 
Mississippi as he observes the ease and grace with 
which she receives her numberless tributaries, many of 
them the most important rivers of North America. 
So quietly do some ofthese rivers enter the parent stream 
that the voyager might often pass their point of junc- 
tion without realizing that a new accession had been 
made to the great body on which he is floating. 

The Missouri, as we have said, is the largest and 
most important of the many tributaries of the Missis- 
sippi. It takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, in 
(312) 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LCUIS. 313 

Montana Territory, over three thousand miles from 
its mouth. The springs which give rise to the Mis- 
souri are less than a mile distant from the head-waters 
of the Columbia, which flows west into the Pacific 
Ocean. The Yellowstone River is probably the largest 
tributary of the Missouri, and enters it from the south- 
west. At its junction with the Missouri it is eight 
hundred yards wide. Steamboats ascend the Missoun 
to the Yellowstone, a distance of over eighteen hundred 
miles. The Great Falls of tlie Missouri are five hun- 
dred and twenty-one miles from its source. The river 
descends by a succession of rapids and falls three hun- 
dred and fifty-seven feet in about sixteen miles. The 
lower and greatest fall has a perpendicular pitch of 
eighty-seven feet. The principal tributaries, next to 
the Yellowstone, are the Little Missouri, Big Chey- 
enne, White Earth, Niobrara, Nebraska, Kansas and 
Osage, on the right ; and the Milk, Dakota, Big Sioux, 
Little Sioux and Grand, on the left. These tributaries 
are each navigable from one hundred to eight hun- 
dred miles. The Missouri throughout the greater 
part of its course is a rapid and muddy stream. It is 
over half a mile wide at its mouth, and through the 
greater part of its course it is wider. In the winter it 
is frozen so hard as to be safely crossed by loaded 
wagons for a number of weeks. 

Missouri was visited by Marquette and Joliet in 
1673, and the first settlement was made at Saint 
Genevieve, twelve miles above Chester, in 1755. The 
territory was purchased by the United States from the 
French, in 1803, as a part of Louisiana. In 1821, 
'Missouri was admitted into the Union as the twenty- 
fourth State. Earlv in the Civil War, Governor 



314 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Jackson issued a proclamation declaring the State out 
of the Union. Major-General Ereemont declared 
martial law throughout the State August thirty-first, 
1861. In the early part of 1862, the Confederate troops 
held half of Missouri. The Missourians furnished 
108,773 soldiers to the Federal side during the war. 

We found the current of the Mississippi below the 
mouth of the Missouri much stronger than we had 
observed it to be since passing the Keokuk Rapids. 
Thus favored we made swift progress toward Saint 
Louis, touching the west bank in the vicinity of the 
Union Stock Yards, near the northern limits of the city, 
at eleven o'clock. Here we dined at the Union Stock 
Yards' Hotel, afterward visiting the yards and talking 
with stock dealers. At three o'clock we were again in 
our canoe floating along the city front. 

About a mile below the stock yards we were sig- 
naled from the shore and on pulling in discovered that 
a number of friends and acquaintances, together with 
several members of city boat-clubs, including the 
"Modocs," ^^ Excelsiors," and "Westerns," had come 
up the river to escort us down to the club-rooms of 
the " Excelsiors," where we were surprised and grati- 
fied to learn that arrangements had been made to re- 
ceive and entertain us. 

It appeared that much interest had been awakened 
through the press of Saint Louis, which had followed 
us to the source of the Mississippi and back to our last 
launch at Alton. As we passed the shipping moored 
to the wharves, whistles were blown, and the crowds on 
shore voiced a hearty welcome and showed a kindly 
interest in our undertaking, which we had not looked 
for and which^ for a time, quite bewildered us. 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 317 

On reaching the "Excelsior'' boat-house landing 
at the foot of Anna Street, we were met by representa- 
tives of the press, who were in pursuit of information 
bearing upon our voyage and purpose. 

Desiring quiet, and an opportunity to see and study 
the varied industries of this great city, we avoided 
hotels, and sought the seclusion of a private residence, 
where we remained three days, and during this in- 
terval visited nearly every object of interest to the 
tourist. 

Saint Louis is to-day the great metropolis of the 
Mississippi Valley, while its history takes us back to 
the early days of romance and discovery. Both Mar- 
quette and Joliet explored the Mississippi past the 
city's present site, and were followed by Hennepin and 
Dugay. La Salle in 1682 traversed the same route. 
In 1764, Pierre Auguste Laclede ascended the river 
from New Orleans and, being a merchant, established 
a trading-post on the site of the present city, and 
erected a few wooden huts near the present Old Market 
Square. From this point lead ore and wild game 
were shipped to New Oi-leans, and soon after, wheat, 
raised in Illinois, was added to the commerce. The 
furs were generally shipped to Canada and thence to 
Europe ; and it required four years to make the returns. 

In 1776, Pierre Laclede Liguest received a grant of 
land for the city of Saint Louis, so named in honor of 
King Louis XIV. of France. Saint Louis, in com- 
mon with the rest of Louisiana, had passed under 
Si)anish rule in 1769, the Spaniards having taken pos- 
session a year later. In 1780, the little frontier town 
was attacked by fifteen hundred Indians and forty 
British, and suffered severely at their hands. In 1785^ 
21 



318 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

the Mississippi rose to an unprecedented height and, 
sweeping over its banks, then unprotected by a levee, 
did great damage and threatened to destroy the town. 

Up to the beginning of the present century, the in- 
.habitants of this small city in the wilderness were 
principally French — a happy, careless people, who 
allowed the burdens of to-day to sit as lightly as pos- 
sible upon them, and troubled themselves little about 
those of to-morrow. Yet, situated as they were, many 
hundreds of miles from the civilization of both the East 
and the South, and surrounded by the hostile bands 
of Indians, sometimes with starvation staring them in 
the face, they endured incredible hardships and suffer- 
ings, the memory of which is still retained in the names 
of some of the older streets. 

In 1790, Dr. Andrew Todd was authorized by the 
Spanish government to prosecute an extensiv^e trade 
with the Indians of the Missouri River, and made his 
headquarters at Saint Louis. In 1803, Louisiana 
having been ceded to the United States, Saint Louis 
came under the control of this country. In 1808, 
the Missouri Fur Company was founded with a capi- 
tal of $40,000. One year later, John Jacob Astor and 
Company set out from Saint Louis on an expedition 
to the Pacific Ocean ; and ten years later the company 
established a commercial house in the city, which was 
mainly the source of Astor's early wealth. The Mis- 
souri Fur Company having dissolved, another fur 
company was organized in 1819. In 1823, General 
Ashley entered from Saint Louis into the Indian 
trade of the Rocky Mountains, and discovered the 
famous South Pass to the Pacific. At the time of 
General Ashley the fur business was a very perilous 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 319 

one. Two-fifths of the men perished, some bting 
drowned, others killed by hostile Indians, and still 
others devoured by white bears. Yet adventurous 
men were not lacking to take their chances in the pur- 
suit. This branch of commerce, however, enriched the 
little town and gave her a prosperous foundation, upon 
which the fortuitous circumstances of the present century 
favored the building up of a great and prosperous city. 

During the early period of her history, French was 
almost the only language spoken in Saint Louis, and 
the business men were Frenchmen. The farmers and 
boatmen were also French, and agriculture and navi- 
gation were carried on according to French systems. 
The inhabitants of the town cultivated, in common, a 
large field to the west of the city, which supplied them 
with wheat and corn for bread. They had also numer- 
ous and excellent stock. In 1807, Saint Louis wa3 as 
much a French village in population and general ap- 
pearance as though located in France. The following 
is a description of the dress of the people given Vy a 
historian : 

" The dress of the people, male and female, was for- 
eign to an American. The voyageurs, comneurs du 
hois, and the farmers, scarcely ever wore a hat, but tied 
around their heads a cotton handkerchief. The white- 
blanket-coat was the general Tyear in winter, and in 
summer a cotton white shirt, or red woolen one, was 
about all the garment the masses wore, except panta- 
loons of buckskin in the winter, and colored cotton in 
the summer. In the cold weather the masses generally 
wore moccasins on their feet, and in summer they used 
the same on their bare feet. It was common for the 
males to wear a belt around them, winter and summer. 



320 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

wherein was fastened a pouch, generally made of seal- 
skin with the hair on, containing tobacco, a pipe, and 
a flint and steel ; so that they could enjoy the genial 
luxury of smoking at any place or time. This habit 
was almost universal in olden times with the French 
male population. In the belt was also suspended a 
butcher-knife, and often a small hatchet. Thus 
equipped, a Frenchman, with a clay pipe in his mouth, 
Vas prepared for the Rocky Mountains, or a hunt in 
the neighborhood for raccoons and opossums." 

The merchants and wealthy classes dressed well, and 
deported themselves like gentlemen. The women 
were always dressed neatly and tastefully, and paid 
careful attention to their appearance. They did not 
labor in the fields. 

The dwellings were built after French models, and 
barns stood thick on the present Third street. These 
barns were very simply built by planting cedar posts 
in the ground, filling up the intervals with puncheons 
of split Cottonwood, and thatching the roofs. In these 
barns were stowed away the wheat from the common 
field, and hay cut from the prairie. 

Small round towers constructed of sods, extended 
quite around the town, and were the remains of forti- 
fications erected during the Spanish dominion to defend 
it against the English and the Indians. A bluff of 
perpendicular rock, twenty or thirty feet high, ex- 
tended from the foot of Chestnut Street up the river 
bank and was not removed until a considerably later 
period. The first ferry, which was established in 1 796, 
was composed of rude canoes, known as dug-outs. 
When horses and wagons crossed, two large canoes 
were lashed together, and a platform placed on them. 



TBBEE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 321 

At this period the population was exclusively 
Catholic, that church having from its earliest history 
planted itself in the town. In 1818, the first Baptist 
Church was built, and in 1820, the first Methodist 
organized and the first Episcopal Church was erected^ 
In 1812, the first session of the State legislature was 
convened at Saint Louis. 

The city at the beginning of the century depended 
almost wholly upon the fur trade ; but the Saint Louis 
of to-day profits by the vast mineral and agricultural 
resources of the State, and by the commerce of the 
Valley of the Mississippi, which is now a compara- 
tively densely populated region. When La Motte, 
the royal governor of Louisiana appointed in 1712, 
was ordered to assist the agents of Crozat in establish- 
ing trading-posts on the Mississippi and its tributaries, 
he wrote back to the ministry : " I have seen Crozat's 
instructions to his agents. I thought they issued 
from a lunatic-asylum, and there appeared to me to 
be no more sense in them than in the Apocalypse. 
What! is it expected that for any commercial or profit- 
able purpose boats will ever be able to run up the 
Mississippi into the Wabash, the Missouri or the Red 
River? One might as well try to bite a slice off the 
moon ! Not only are those rivers as rapid as the 
Rhone, but in their crooked course they imitate to per- 
fection a snake^s undulations. Hence, for instance, on 
every turn of the Mississippi it would be necessary to 
wait for a change of wind, if wind could be had ; be- 
cause this river is so lined with thick woods, that very 
little wind has access to its bed." 

Could it be possible for the shade of La Motte to 
look down upon his late domain from his celestial 



32^ J)OWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

abode, he would see many things to astonish his 
ghostly excellency, all accomplished in little more than 
a century and a half. He would see many great and 
populous cities on the banks of the Great River, and 
myriads of water craft of every description, not only 
proceeding down the river aided by the current, but 
strange vessels, unlike anything of his time, ])uffing 
smoke and steam out of their nostrils, proceeding 
directly up the stream, regardless of either wind or 
current, with a speed and by a means of locomotion 
which would seem to him, if he possessed only his 
eighteenth century knowledge, allied to sorcery. 

The application of steam as a motive power, has 
made Saint Louis what it is — the great inland city of 
the continent. Without it, she may have sent her 
loads of furs, metals, and grain down the river to New 
Orleans, but would have received litile in return. In 
1817, the first steamboat, the General Pike stopped 
at her landing. Since that time, her progress has 
been rapid and certain. In 1811, her population was 
but fourteen hundred. In 1850 it had increased to 
nearly seventy-five thousand ; while in 1880 it had more 
than quadrupled, being set down by the census at 
350,522. Now, a thousand steamboats speed up and 
down the Father of Waters and his tributaries, to bring 
produce to be reshipped from this port. 

The State of Missouri is very rich in minerals. 
Lead, kaolin, iron, copper, zinc, cobalt, nickel and 
magnesia, all furnish material to keep busy the im- 
mense and numerous factories which have been estab- 
lished in Saint Louis, and furnish employment to 
about fifty thousand workmen. A large portion of 
Pilot Knob, which is five hundred and eighty-one f^^i 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 323 

high, is pure iron ore, and it is estimated that a single 
stratum will furnish nearly ten millions of tons, while 
there are several strata above, and at least one below. 
The iron ore in the region of Pilot Knob and Iron 
Mountain it is computed will furnish a million tons 
per year of manufactured iron for the next two hun- 
dred years. And most of the iron will be manufac- 
tured, or at least shipped from Saint Louis, furnishing 
an immense business and a proportionately large source 
of revenue. The limestone, sandstone, and granite of 
the State also furnish excellent building material for 
the houses and blocks of the city. 

The agricultural resources of Missouri are also very 
great. The State furnishes large numbers of hogs and 
cattle, which are slaughtered and disposed of in Saint 
Louis; while breadstuffs, provisions, hay and lumber 
are constantly being received and shipped. It is one 
of the first cities in the Union in the manufacture of 
flour, the wheat being grown on the fertile prairie land 
of Missouri, Iowa and Kansas. 

Saint Louis presents a fine appearance from the 
river. First, there is upon the river itself a city of 
steamboats, tugboats and flatboats, ranged in front of 
the levee, which rises high above low-water mark, 
and higher than all but the highest high-water mark, 
reached, perhaps, but once in a century. The great 
Saint Louis Bridge proudly stretches across the Mis- 
sissippi, making three broad leaps in crossing. The 
ct'utre span is five hundred and twenty feet in width ; 
II lid the tw^o side ones are each five hundred feet, the 
arches rising sixty feet, and permitting the largest 
steamboats to pass under them. This bridge was de- 
signed by Captain James B. Eads, now famous as the 



324 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

builder of the Jetties at the mouth of the Mississippi j 
was begun in 1869 and completed in 1874. It con- 
tains two tiers of tracks, the lower tier being for 
steam-cars and the upper one for horse-cars, carriages 
and pedestrians. 

On the right bank of the river rises, terrace after 
terrace, the Saint Louis of to-day, differing no less in 
characteristics and people than in size from the Saint 
Louis of three-quarters of a century ago. Front street 
is one hundred feet wide, and extends along the levee. 
The streets running north and south are numbered 
west of Front street; while those running east and 
west, and terminating at the river, have arbitrary names 
given them. Front, Second, and Main streets are the 
principal wholesale avenues, and are lined with im- 
mense warehouses. Fourth street contains the most 
fashionable retail stores, and is the favorite prome- 
nade. The longest street is Grand avenue, running 
for twelve miles parallel with the river. Thirty years 
ago Carondelet was a separate suburb on the river 
bank, to the southward, but is now included in the 
city, the entire intervening space' having been built 
upon. Washington and Chouteau avenues, Lucas 
Place, and Pine, Olive and Locust streets contain the 
finest residences. 

The Missouri Gazette was the first newspaper estab- 
lished west of the Mississippi, having made its appear 
ancein July, 1808, its publisher being Joseph Charless. 
This was the beginning of the Missouri Republican ^ 
of which Mr. Charless was one of the proprietors up to 
the time of his death. The second weekly appeared in 
1815. There are now more than sixty papers issued 
in the city, including dailies, weeklies and monthlies. 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 325 

They are anioMg; the most ably conducted and widely 
circulated in the country. The Post Dispatch is one 
of the youngest of these, and at the same time one of 
the brightest and most enterprising. It prints three dif- 
ferent editions, and is prompt in securing the freshest 
and most readable news. The Missouri Republican is 
not only the oldest paper of the city, but one of the 
leading papers of the country. It represents the in- 
terests of the Democratic party and has a very large 
circulation. The Globe-Democrat is Republican in its 
politics and a power in the party. The Critic and 
Spectator are both enterprising daily papers, and there 
are, in addition, two German dailies, three German 
weeklies, one French weekly, and one Spanish news- 
paper, published monthly. Agricultural, literary, re- 
ligious, commercial, legal, medical and educational 
publications complete the list. 

The Catholic church, although it has lost, to a cer- 
tain extent, the supremacy which it first held over the 
city, is still represented by a large class of the popula- 
tion, and has a number of sacred buildings, while there 
are numerous charitable institutions under its control. 
The Cathedral, in Walnut street, between Second and 
Third, is one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in 
the city. Its lofty spire contains a fine chime of bells. 
The Sisters of Charity conduct a hospital which has 
accommodation for four hundred patients ; and there 
tire also a Deaf and Dumb Asylum, and a Convent of 
the Good Shepherd for the reformation of fallen women, 
in charge of Catholic orders. 

Germans form a goodly proportion of the population 
of the city, and are, for the most part, orderly, indus- 
trious and intelligent. During the war of the Rebel- 



326 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

lion they proved themselves thoroughly loyal to the 
National Government and secured Saint Louis and, 
through it, the State from the evils of secession ; and 
in this city the first military movements of the West 
were made. The population is largely made up of 
imnjigrants from Pennsylvania and New Jersey, 
these States being on the same parallels as Missouri, 
although latterly other sections of the country have 
become represented. 

No one who visits Saint Louis should fail to see 
Shawns Garden, one of the most interesting parks in 
the country, embracing an area of one hundred and 
four acres. It is owned and has been planned and 
perfected by Mr. Shaw, who intends to present it to 
the city. Ten acres are devoted to flowers and shrub- 
bery of every known variety, a number of greenhouses 
sheltering tropical plants and other exotics. Fruits 
of every kind occupy six acres, and twenty-five acres 
furnish ample space for every kind of ornamental tree 
which will grow in this latitude. The labyrinth leads 
through a maze of hedge-bordered pathways to a sum- 
mer-house in the centre ; and there are a museum and 
a botanical library in connection with the Garden. 
During the week the grounds are open to the public, but 
on Sunday only strangers are admitted, who must pro- 
cure tickets for the privilege. 

The annual exhibition of the Agricultural and Me- 
chanical Association of Saint Louis is the great feature 
of the city. Fair week, which is usually the first 
week in October, sees the city filled with strangers 
from every section of the State. The fair-grounds em- 
brace eighty -five acres, and are three miles north-west 
of the Court House. 




Entrance TO S HAWS Garden 



'M||||lil|!||K5W'^- 

' llilAFWETTEPAF^K; 



VIEWS IN SAINT LOUIS. 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 327 

Saint Louis has two thousand acres of public parks, 
admirably laid out and adorned with fountains and 
statuary. Forest Park embraces one thousand three 
hundred and fifty acTCS, and is four miles west of the 
Court House. The Des Peres River runs through it, 
and it is, to a great extent, still covered with the primi- 
tive forest. Northern Park, containing one hundred 
and eighty acres, is on the bluffs north of the city. 
There are a number of smaller parks or squares scat- 
tered through the city, prominent among which is 
Lafayette Park, containing bronze statues of Wasliing- 
ton and Benton. The memory of Benton is greatly 
honored, Saint Louis being very proud of its citizen, 
the statesman who for so many years called this city 
his home. 

Saint Louis is a handsome city, architecturally 
speaking, though there is a lack of that grand archi- 
tectural display which is found in some of our western 
cities. The buildings are chiefly of stone or brick, and 
are, many of them, fine, though, as a whole, they are 
substantially rather than showily built. The finest 
public edifice is the Court House, occupying an entire 
square, and built of Genevieve limestone. It is in 
the form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a lofty iron 
dome, and each front is adorned with a handsome 
Doric portico. The Chamber of Commerce is the 
finest building of the kind in the country. It is built 
of gray limestone, is two hundred and fifty-five feet 
long, one hundred and eighty-seven feet wide, and 
five stories in height. The new Custom House and 
Post Office, at the corner of Eighth and Olive streets, 
is a very handsome edifice, occupying an entire block. 
It is built of Maine granite, with rose-colored granite 



328 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

trimmings, and its cost was about five million dollars. 
The Republican building, at the corner of Third and 
Chestnut streets, is one of the finest and most com- 
pletely appointed newspaper offices in the country, 
and speaks well fi^r the financial success of that news- 
paper. The city contains many handsome churches, 
among which the Jewish Temple, at the corner of 
Seventeenth and Pine streets, is one of the most con- 
spicuous for its beauty. 

The Elevator, at the foot of Ashley street, is one of 
the largest in the country, having a capacity of two 
millions of bushels. The levee is one of the most 
interesting features of the city. It is a hundred feet 
wide, facing the river with a solid wall of masonry; 
and here we find continual bustle and the busy activity 
of an immense commerce. In front of this levee, from 
early spring until early winter, while navigation is 
open upon the Mississippi, immense numbers of boats 
are daily seen, loading and unloading, discharging and 
taking on board their many passengers, coming and 
going. While the river is locked by ice during a 
brief season in the winter, these boats are securely 
fastened to the levee. Yet, with all the precautions 
which may be taken, when the ice breaks up in early 
spring, it is very common for some of them to be 
crushed like egg-shells between the floes. 

Saint Louis is the great commercial depot of the 
Mississippi. Lying almost in the centre of the vast 
Mississippi Valley, it is connected by commerce with 
all the towns and cities above and below it and on the 
remotest tributaries of the Great River. As the West 
is developed, so will the magnitude and prosperity of 
this city increase. Lying equally between the North 



THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 



329 



and South, the East and West, she will always main- 
tain her present cosmopolitan character, uniting people 
of all sections and all nationalities; and in this com- 
mingling, and eventual blending of families and races, 
she will become more thoroughly American, in the 
broadest signification of that wci^I 




. — -^ 



IJHAPTEE. XX YI 



SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. 




(£tgl]ti)-first Sap. 

Boarding Housx. 

Orystal City, Missoiiri, 
October 10, 1881. 

ITH the feeling that three days had been 
pleasantly and profitably spent in the 
metropolis of the Valley of the Missis- 
sippi, we railed for our canoe at the 
boat-house of the " Excelsiors," and pushing 
her once more into the river "set sail " for 
the tropical gulf. The weather now seemed 
settled, the temperature not having materially 
changed since leaving Saint Paul, as our progress in 
the descent of the river was about equal to the advance 
of the season. 

Our eighty-first day was not marked by anything 
of es])ecial interest. Went ashore but twice between 
Saint Louis and Crystal City, and then for a few mo- 
ments only. Had luncheon in the canoe in order to 
save time. Distance covered between ten o'clock in 
the morning and five in the afternoon, forty-three 
miles. 

Crystal City is a stirring village of Jefferson County, 
Missouri, situated on a small tributary of the Missis- 
^330) 



SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. 331 

sippi, about a mile from their junction. It has a popu- 
lation of nearly five hundred, and is engaged chiefly in 
the manufacture of plate glass. We weie much im- 
pressed with the enterprise of this place, and trust that 
as the tide of its prosperity rolls on it will feel justified 
in erecting a commodious hotel, thus sparing future 
visitors the annoyance to which we were subjected of 
canvassing the entire village for a night's lodging, 
which resulted in securing a bed in a room already 
tenanted by two men and three dogs. 

St. James Hotel, 

Chester , Illinois^ 

October Eleventh. 

Some of the peculiar characteristics of the Lower 
Mississippi now began to force themselves upon our 
attention. Among the obstructions observed below 
the mouth of the Missouri are '^ planters," " sawyers," 
and " wooden islands," which are frequently the cause 
of injury and even destruction to the boats. "Planters" 
are large bodies of trees firmly fixed by their roots in 
the bottom of the river, in a perpendicular manner, and 
appearing not more than a foot above the surface of 
the water when at its medium height. So firmly are 
they rooted that the largest boats coming in contact 
with them will hardly move them ; but, on the con- 
trary, they materially injure the boats. "Sawyers "are 
also large trees, fixed less perpendicularly in the 
stream, yielding to the pressure of the current, disap- 
pearing and reappearing at intervals, and having a 
motion similar to the upright saw of a saw-mill, from 

which thty take their name. These obstacles to navi- 
22 



332 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

gation have seldom been seen of late years, as there are 
several government snag-boats constantly on the alert 
for them, and as soon as discovered they are promptly 
removed. " Wooden islands" are formed by driftwood, 
which from various cauces has been arrested and matted 
together in different sections of the river. Formerly, 
these impediments were the cause of heavy losses to 
the merchant, and danger to the traveler; but since 
the introduction of the steamboat and the improve- 
ment of the channel, accidents of this nature are not of 
frequent occurrence. 

The Mississippi and its principal tributaries give a 
peculiar cast to the mode of traveling and transporta- 
tion, and have created a peculiar class of men called 
boatmen. Craft of every description are found on 
these waters. Here are still found the huge, shapeless 
masses denoting the infancy of navigation, and the 
powerful and magnificent steamship which marks its 
perfection ; together with all the intermediate forms 
between these extremes. The most primitive of all 
water-craft is the " ark " or flatboat, an immense frame 
of square timbers with a roof. It is in shape a paral- 
lelogram, and lies upon the water like a log; it hardly 
feels the oar, and trusts to the current mainly for mo- 
tion. It is usually fifteen feet wide and from fifty to 
eighty feet long. These arks are often filled with the 
goods and families of emigrants, carrying even their 
domestic animals and wagons. They are also fre- 
quently used as itinerant stores, and are filled with the 
various kinds of goods which are found most salable 
in the river towns. Sometimes they are fitted up as the 
workshops of artificers, who readily find employment 
in the villages and hamlets along the route selected. 



SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. 333 

Barges and keelboats are also frequently observed ; 
skiffs, dugouts or pirogues, made of hollowed logs, 
and numerous other vessels for which language has no 
name and the sea no parallel. Since the advent of the 
steamboat much of the miscellaneous craft has dis- 
appeared, and the number of river boatmen has de- 
creased by many thousands. 

Favored with pleasant weather, our trip from Crystal 
City to Chester was greatly enjoyed. Halted at Saint 
Genevieve, on the west bank, where we dined and 
spent an hour on shore. This is the oldest settlement 
in Missouri, and one of the oldest in the Valley of the 
Mississippi, having been founded by Marquette in 
1673. The surface is broken and hilly in the vicinity 
of the town, and is noted chiefly for its mines of lead 
and copper. It is an important river station, ship- 
ping the iron products of Iron Mountain, and the 
fruits, wines and cereals of the surrounding country. 

Leaving Saint Genevieve, we ran down to Chester 
on the left bank, at the mouth of the Kaskaskia River, 
a considerable stream, navigable at high water to Van- 
dalia, one hundred and fifty miles from its confluence 
with the Mississippi. The banks of the Kaskaskia, 
and those of its tributaries, are generally fertile and 
studded with rich and flourishing cities and vil- 
lages. The surface is usually undulating and is well 
adapted to the cultivation of corn, wheat, rye, oats and 
tobacco. Cotton is raised to some extent in the lower 
part of its course. 

Chester is the county-seat of Randolph County, Illi- 
nois ; is seventy-six miles below Saint Louis, and is 
the shipping-point of the Chester coal-flelds. It is an 
incorporated city; has eight churches, a bank, two 



334 nOWIf THE GREAT RIVER. 

weekly papers, rolling-mills, foundries, flour-mills, an 
elevator, and claims a population of three thousand. 

ffigl]tn-tl|tr^ Elaii. 

Farm House, 

Neely^s Landing, Missouri, 

October Twelfth. 

Resumed our voyage at eight o'clock. Halted at 
Wilkinson's Landing, a small hamlet fifteen miles be- 
low Chester on the opposite shore. Stopped a few 
minutes at Grand Tower, forty miles below Chester. 
This natural rock-tower, rising from the bed of the 
river near its western bank, sixty feet above the 
water-level, gives its name to the town on the Illinois 
side. 

" In some former period," observes Schoolcraft, 
"there has been an obstruction in the channel of the 
Mississippi, at or near Grand Tower, producing a stag- 
nation of the current at an elevation of about one hun- 
dred and thirty feet above the present ordinary water- 
mark. This appears evident from the general elevation 
and direction of the hills, which for several hundred 
miles above are separated by a valley from twenty to 
twenty-five miles wide, that deeply embosoms the cur- 
rent of the Mississippi." On the rocky and abrupt 
fronts of some of these hills a series of water-lines are 
distinctly seen, and are uniformly parallel ; and at 
Grand Tower these water-lines are found about one 
hundred feet above the top of the stratum in which 
petrifactions of the madrepore and various fossil remains 
are deposited. Here the limestone rocks, by their pro- 
jection towards each other, indicate that they have, at 
a remote period, been severed, either by some coavui- 



SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. 335 

sion of nature, or by the action of water, and tliat a 
passage has been made through them giving vent to 
the stagnant waters on the prairie lands above, and 
opening for the Mississippi its present channel. 

The bank of the Mississippi from near Grand Tower, 
extending up on the Missouri side of the river, is suf- 
ficiently elevated above the surface of the State of 
Illinois to have formed a western shore of an expanse 
of water covering the entire area of that State. And 
the alluvial deposits, of which the Illinois prairies are 
formed, are composed of fine, hard and compact layers 
of earth, similar to those at the bottom of mill-ponds 
or of water long stagnant. 

We tried very hard towards evening to find a vil- 
lage on the east bank of which we had heard, and 
which is still placed on the maps as Preston, but a 
diligent search and much inquiry failed to discover 
anything but a single deserted house, standing upon 
the brink of the crumbling bank of the river. We 
subsequently learned that, lacking the protection of a 
levee, Preston had long since yielded to the ravages of 
the invading Mississippi. 

Disembarked at half-past six o'clock and arranged 
to spend the night with the family of Mr. John Shin- 
naman, an ex-Union soldier who returned to his farm 
at the close of the war. In referring to his present 
financial condition, Mr. Shinnaman was far from hope- 
ful. He explained that about a year ago he thought 
of selling his farm, at that time comprising over five 
hundred acres, and investing the proceeds in goods 
with which he proposed to open a store ; but liis wife 
opposed, had little faith in the store, and declined to 
sign the deed with him conveying their real estate to 



236 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

other parties. Since then the river has cut acre after 
acre away from his possessions, until at the time of our 
visit not more than seventy-five acres out of the orig- 
inal five hundred were left. It is safe to assume that 
in future Mrs. Shinnaman will sign all papers con- 
veying property to anxious purchasers with promptness 
and despatch. 

®gl]tp-fourt(} SDaj). 

Woodward House, 

Commerce, Missouri^ 

October Thirteenth. 

We were awakened at six o'clock in the morning by 
the farm hands, who were up and doing at a much 
earlier hour. A good old-fashioned farm-house break- 
fast was served at half-past six, reminding me of boy- 
hood days and the old house on the hill in northern 
New York. Excellent coffee, milk and cream fur- 
nished by milkmen who had not yet learned to sing, 
"Shall we gather at the river;'' corn-bread, bacon and 
eggs, and such fruits and vegetables as are usually 
found on the farms of Missouri. 

Returned to our canoe at eight o'clock. Mr. Shin- 
naman and family and several of their neighbors and 
friends accompanied us to the landing to see us off. 
Weather favorable until eleven ; then wind up stream 
and comparatively slow progress. 

Landed at Cape Girardeau for dinner and to attend 
to correspondence. Found the Cape astir with a circus 
and county fair, a combination almost too much for a 
town of its magnitude. The circus, however, I learned 
was very well patronized, as is usually the case, but at 
the expense of the other enterprise. We were driven 
from the river at Commerce by a severe wind and rain 



SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. 337 

storm at four o'clock in the afternoon. We were glad, 
indeed, to find comfortable quarters at Commerce, and 
had the satisfaction of entering in our log forty-three 
miles as the day's run. 

Commerce, the capital of Scott County, Missouri, is 
one hundred and fifty-four miles below Saint Louis. 
It is a pleasant village of five hundred inhabitants, 
and is engaged in the manufacture of flour, leather and 
pottery. 

Hotel de Winter, 

At Cairo, Illinois^ 
October Fourteenth. 

It was necessary to make an early start in the morn- 
ing, as we were expecting mail at Cairo and desired to 
reach that city before the hour of closing the post- 
office, and besides, we were eager to see La Belle 
Riviere^ the grand old Ohio, and witness the greeting 
of this greatest of its eastern tributaries to the Father 
of Waters. Consequently we were on the water soon 
after seven o'clock and making good progress towards 
our destination. A stout use of our paddles, aided by 
a current of four and a half miles per hour, brought us 
to tlie mouth of the Ohio at two o'clock, thereby 
scoring to our credit forty-three miles in six hours, 
allowing one hour on shore for luncheon. 

At one o'clock we came to what is styled in river 
parlance a long reach, from the head of which we could 
plainly see Cairo resting upon the flat prairie in the 
distance. Across the southern extremity of this prairie 
city could be seen the placid Ohio rolling its waters 
along towards its confluence with its mighty rival, the 
Mississippi. A few moments more and our little craft 



338 DOTKF THE GREAT RIVER. 

was whirled into its comparatively quiet, clear current; 
and with our prow pointed northward we pulled 
quickly up to the Cairo steamboat-landing and dis- 
embarked. 

At the wharf we were met by several citizens, in- 
cluding Captain W. P. Halliday and the editor of the 
Argus-Jowmal, the former of whom is perhaps the 
most prominent representative of the city's commercial 
interests. 

Cairo occupies the extreme southern point of the 
State of Illinois at the junction of the Mississippi and 
Ohio rivers, being situated on a peninsula jutting out 
between them a little above their point of union. Mar- 
quette and Joliet were the first white men of whom 
there is any record, who visited the Mississippi at its 
confluence with the Ohio, which was then known as 
the Wabash. In 1673, they passed the spot where the 
latter mingled its bright waters with the turbid flood 
of the former; and after descending the Mississippi to 
latitude 33°, a little below the mouth of the Arkansas, 
they reversed their course, and in ascending the river 
repassed the same spot. It is possible that the Jesuit 
missionaries had preceded them, for at the time of their 
visit a number of missions had already been estab- 
lished among the Indians through the Illinois country. 

Following Marquette and Joliet came Hennepin and 
Dugay in 1681 ; while in 1682, La Salle took the same 
route down the Mississippi, delaying for a few days at 
the mouth of the Ohio, to make arrangements for trade 
and intercourse with the Indians. 

During the first half of the eighteenth century the 
Ohio River was little known, all that portion of it be- 
low the mouth of the Wabash being considered a con- 



SAIN2 LOUIS TO CAIRO. 339 

timiatiou of the latter tributary; and above that point 
tlie Ohio, known only by report, was spoken of as the 
Kiverof the Iroquois. It was not until 1749 that the 
river was regularly explored by the French and traced 
to its sources in the Alleghenies. 

No settlement seems to have been made on the 
present site of Cairo during the French dominion in 
America. It was not even considered an eligible place 
for a trading-post, mission or fort; therefore all these 
were located both above and below it on the Mississippi, 
and also on the Ohio. It was not until the French 
had withdrawn from the Ohio River and ceded Louisi- 
ana to the United States, and the Anglo-Saxon race 
had begun to push westward, and was already figur- 
ing with its characteristic alertness of intellect on the 
great future of our country, that this locality was 
selected as a site for a town. 

Cairo is said to be the geographical centre of the 
trade and population of our country. At the junction 
of two of its greatest rivers it would naturally seem to 
invite commerce, and also seem to occupy the very 
position for the metropolis of the Mississippi Valley. 
So reasoned the early settlers, and Cairo sprang into 
existence. But beyond its geographical position at the 
mouth of the Ohio, and in the centre of the great val- 
ley of the Mississippi, it possessed no natural advan- 
tages. The ground was low and annually overflowed 
during the spring freshets. Hence undoubtedly its 
name of Cairo, after that Egyptian city which is not 
unfrequently submerged by the Nile. Hence also the 
name of " Egypt '' contemptuously bestowed upon 
southern Illinois. 

Charles Dickens visited the little town in 1842, and 



340 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

described it in no flattering terms, as low and marshy, 
and at certain seasons of the year inundated to the 
house-tops — a breeding-place of fevers, ague and death. 
No doubt he looked at much which he saw in America 
at that date through blue spectacles. Nevertheless, 
Cairo was certainly not a paradise when Dickens visited 
it. Since that time large sums of money have been 
expended in improvements, chiefly in the construction 
of levees to protect it from inundation ; but trade and 
commerce have in a great measure passed it by and 
established their headquarters at Saint Louis, further 
up the Mississippi and just below the mouth of the 
Missouri. Steamers upon the Mississippi and the Ohio 
make Cairo one of their regular stopping-places, and a 
number of railroads centre here. The Chicago divis- 
ion of the Illinois Central terminates at Cairo. The 
*' Great Jackson Koute,^' or the Chicago^aint Louis 
and New Orleans Railroad — one of the main trunk 
lines between the Northern and Southern States — 
passes through the town. It is also connected by 
steam ferry with Columbus, Kentucky, the northern 
terminus of the Mobile and Ohio road. If railroads 
and river facilities could make a town, then surely 
Cairo ought to be one of the most prosperous in the 
West. 

During the Civil War it had a brief period of pros- 
perity. General Grant established his headquarters 
here in 1861, when he was appointed brigadier-general 
of volunteers, and it was the base of his first military 
operations. When Grant, by reason of his brilliant 
achievements at Forts Henry and Donelson, was pro- 
moted to the command of the Military District of 
Tennessee, General W. T. Sherman succeeded to the 



SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. g^j 

command of the District of Cairo, and from thence 
began his own distinguished career. Thus it was the 
starting-point of two of the most famous heroes of the 
late war — one who " broke the back of the Rebellion," 
and the other who eventually suppressed it. During 
that period it was an important depot of supplies, and 
enjoyed a satisfactory commercial activity. It was the 
headquarters of soldiers and participated in all the 
bustle of military life. For a time it rose into com- 
parative importance and seemed to realize in a degree 
the dreams of its youth. But with the close of the war 
came the close of its prosperous times. The streets 
were again empty and comparatively silent, and the 
town lapsed into decadence. 

Cairo is now a city of eleven thouB-and still hopeful 
inhabitants. It has several good hotels, and a fine 
Custom House of cut stone, which cost two hundred 
thousand dollars. The county buildings are also large 
and handsome. The levee keeps within bounds the 
two rivers which, not a generation ago, almost yearly 
united and spread out in a broad expanse of water 
several miles in extent at that point. But it does not 
give consistency to the Illinois mud, which, stickier 
and deeper even than that of the Chicago of early days, 
still turns the streets into semi-fluid canals at certain 
seasons of the year. Neither can it keep back the 
malaria which infests the lower portion of the State of 
Illinois. 

Cairo has a heterogeneous population composed in 
part of Northerners and in part of Southerners, while 
there are also representatives of the genuine Westerner. 
It is not a handsome city, though there are some fine 
buildings^ and its general architecture has improved 



342 



DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 



of late years. Tlie flat, uii picturesque country and the 
yellow flood of the Mississippi possess, neither of them, 
elements of beauty. Its future may possibly be brighter 
than its past, though it will probably never reach the 
goal of its early ambition. If the levees prove a suffi- 
cient protection against the surging flood of the Mis- 
sissippi, so that the town is secure against occasional 
inundation, the advantages of its geographical position, 
and the superior facilities offered by its numerous rail- 
roads, may yet build it up into a tolerably populous 
and thriving city. 




Gf^AHaTQ.yyxfl 




.i:..iJJ 



CHAPTER XXyil. 

CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. 

Laclede House, 

Hickman, Kentucky ^ 
October 15, 1881. 

N quitting Cairo we left Illinois to th^ 

northward and now had Kentucky on 

our left hand. The dilapidated village 

of Belmont, Missouri, was reached a few 

minutes after one o'clock. Here on the 

seventh of November, 1861, an indecisive 

battle was fought between the Confederates under 

Generals Polk and Pillow, and the Union troops 

commanded by General Grant. 

Some of the most peculiar and interesting features 

of a journey on the Lower Mississippi are the studies 

presented by the " Shanty-boats." We passed many 

of them. They are also called family-boats, as they 

serve as a home during the winter for a peculiar class 

of people. They carry passengers and cargo from the 

colder regions of the Ohio to New Orleans. They hail 

mostly from the Allegheny and Monongahela region 

and from towns on the Upper Ohio. Winter-quarters 

are looked up in the fall, and the swift-running river 

is the path to warmer suns and a life of ease. 

(345^ 




346 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

The shanty-boatman fishes in the stream for floating 
boards^ planks and scantling to build his house. His 
scow or flatboat is roughly constructed, and is usually 
about twenty feet long by twelve wide. It is made of 
planks spiked together, calked and Ditched, and thus 
made water-tight. A small shanty is built upon the 
boat, covering about two-thirds of it. If the proprietor 
has a family he takes them on board, and lays in a 
small stock of provisions, chiefly salt pork, flour, ]h)- 
tatoes, molasses and coiFee. An old cooking-stove is 
rigged up, rough bunks are constructed for sleeping, 
and if the family has any furniture, it is put on board 
and arranged in the shanty. A double-barreled gun 
and a good supply of ammunition for certain contin- 
gencies, with a number of steel-traps, are never forgot- 
ten. This rude shanty, with its door at each end, and 
a few small windows in its sides, makes a comfortable 
home for its rough occupants. 

Every trade is represented on these floating dens. 
Cobblers, tinsmiths, agents and repai^^ers of sewing- 
machines, grocers, saloon-keepers, barbers and others 
set afloat their establishments and ply their several 
trades at the small towns and villages on the river 
banks. The shanty-boat floats on the stream with the 
current, the occupants rarely doing any rowing. They 
keep on their course till a warmer climate is reached, 
when they work their craft into some creek and secure 
it to the bank. The men then set their steel-traps in 
the woods for coons, mink and foxes, and in the course 
of the winter, as the reward of their vigilance, secure 
many skins. They find other game, however, and 
feast upon the hogs of the backwoodsmen and small 
farriers. When engaged in the dangerous work ()f 



CAIRO TO 3IEMPHIS. 347 

hog-stealing, the men will keep a number of the skins 
of wild animals stretched on the walls of their shanty, 
so that visitors to their boat may be led to believe that 
they are industrious trappers — " who wouldn^t steal a 
hog for no money." They will attend with their 
whole family any religious meeting in the vicinity. 
They join with vigor in the shoutings and "amens," 
and affect a desire to lead Christian lives, so that the 
spectator is often misled by their seeming earnestness 
and sincerity. A visit to the shanty-boat, however, 
and a glimpse of these people " at home," will quickly 
dispel such hastily formed impressions. 

The fleet of shanty-boats begins to reach New Or- 
leans at the approach of spring. They there find a 
market for the skins of the animals trapped during 
their voyage, and the trapper disposes of his boat for 
fire-wood. He then purchases lower-deck tickets on 
an up-river steamboat for Cairo, Cincinnati, or Pitts- 
burg, and returns to the Ohio River to rent a small 
patch of ground for the season, where he can raise a 
little corn, cabbage and potatoes, upon which to subsist 
until the time arrives to repeat his annual trip down 
the river to warmer climes, 

Hickman is a small but busy town, the capital of 
Fulton County, Kentucky, and is the only place in 
this State of any importance on the Mississippi. It 
has a population of about two thousand, engaged 
mostly in the handling of agricultural produce. The 
surrounding country is fertile and produces, in con- 
siderable quantities, wheat, corn and tobacco. The 
town has various factories and supports a seminary and 
a newspaper. It is the terminus of the Nashville, 

Chattanooga and Saint Louis Railroad. 
23 



348 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

KoBiNsoN House, 
Point Pleasant, Missouri^ 
October Sixteenth. 

Many of the features peculiar to the Lower Missis- 
sippi continued to force themselves upon our notice; 
sand-bars appeared frequently above the water, upon 
which were often seen large flocks of wild ducks and 
geese. The Chickasaw Bluffs, the first and highest of 
a series which rise at intervals, like islands, out of the 
low bottoms as far south as Natchez, came into view 
on the left side of the river, just above Hickman, 
The Mound-Builders of past ages used these natural 
fortresses to hold at bay the fierce tribes of the north, 
and many centuries later they played a conspicuous 
part in our Civil War. 

We passed the Kentucky boundary at three o'clock 
and came in sight of Tennessee, Missouri still con- 
tinuing on our right. Descending a long straight 
reach, after making a run of twenty-five miles below 
Hickman, we saw on the shore, in a deep bend of the 
river, the site of Fort Donelson, while in the middle 
of the stream, nearly opposite, lay ^' Island No. 10." 
Both of these places were full of interest, being the 
scenes of conflict during the Rebellion. Gliding down 
another long bend we passed New Madrid, on the 
Missouri side. 

At four o'clock the mouth of Reelfoot Bayou opened 
before us, a creek which discharges the waters of one 
of the most peculiarly interesting lakes in America- - 
a lake which was the immediate result of a series of 
disastrous disturbances, generally known as the New 



CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. 349 

Madrid earthquakes, which took place in 1811-13. 
Much of the country in the vicinity of New Madrid 
and Fort Donelson was involved in these earthquakes. 
Swamps were upheaved and converted into dry up- 
lands, while cultivated uplands were depressed below 
the average water-level and became swamps or pondso 
The inhabitants, deprived of their farms, were reduced 
to such a stage of suffering as to call for aid from the 
Government, and new lands were granted them in 
place of their fields which had sunk out of sight. 

The most interesting effect of the subsidence of the 
land was the creation of Reelfoot Lake, the fluvial en- 
trance to which is from the Mississippi, some forty-four 
miles below Hickman, Kentucky. The northern end 
of the lake is west of, and but a short distance from 
Fort Donelson, which is about twenty miles from 
Hickman by the river route. 

Boarding House, 

Cottonwood Point, 3Tissouri 

October Seventeenth. 

Seven o'clock saw us again on the water. Our 
landlord. Captain Robinson, launched the canoe, giving 
us a hearty send-off, which was lustily echoed by his 
friends and neighbors assembled on the river-bank to 
witness our departure. 

The climate was now growing delightful. It was 
like a June day in the Northern States. Each soft 
breeze of the balmy atmosphere seemed to say, as we 
felt its strange, fascinating influence, "You are nearing 
the goal ! '' 

We found the river exceedingly tortuous at this time, 



350 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

The reaches were usually from four to six miles in 
length, though some of them were considerably longer. 
Sometimes deposits of sand and vegetable matter will 
build up a small island adjacent to a large one, and 
then a dense thicket of cottonwood brush takes posses- 
sion of it, and assists materially in resisting the en- 
croachments of the current. These little low islands 
covered with thickets are called " tow-heads," and the 
maps of the Engineer Corps distinguish them from the 
numbered islands in the following manner : "Island 
No. 24/' and "Tow-head of Island No. 24." 

Commencing with "No. 1," below the mouth of the 
Oliin, these islands end with "No. 125," just above the 
inlet to Bayou La Fourche in Louisiana; and in ad- 
dition there are many which have been named after 
their owners. During one generation a planter may 
live upon a peninsula comprising many thousand acres, 
with his cotton-fields and house fronting on the Missis- 
sippi. The treacherous current of this river may sud- 
denly cut a new way across his estate at a distance of 
two or three miles from liis house. As the gradual 
change goes on, he looks from the windows of his 
house upon a new scene. He no longer gazes upon 
the majestic river, enlivened by the passage of steam- 
boats and other craft; but before him is a sombre 
bayou or lake, whose muddy waters are almost motion- 
less. He was possibly the proprietor of Beauregard 
Point, he is now the owner of Beauregard Island, and 
lives in the quiet atmosphere of the backwoods of 
Tennessee. 

The area of land on both sides of the Mississippi 
subjected to annual overflow is very large. There are 
localities thirty or forty miles away from the river 



CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. 351 

where the height of the overflow of the previous year 
is plainly registered upon the trunks of the trees by a 
coating of yellow mud, which frequently reaches from 
seven to ten feet above the ground. This great region 
covers vast tracts of rich laud, as well as millions of 
acres of low swamps and bayou bottoms. 

The settler builds his log-cabin on the highlands, 
and makes a clearing where the rich soil and warm 
sun aid his feeble efforts in the direction of agriculture, 
and he is rewarded with a large crop of corn and sweet- 
potatoes. These, with bacon, annually provided from 
his herd of wandering pigs, furnish the food for his 
family of children, who, usually without covering 
for their heads, roam through the woods until the sun 
bleaches their hair to the color of flax. With tobacco, 
whiskey and ammunition for himself, and an ample 
supply of snufl* for his wife, he drags out an indolent 
existence; but he is the pioneer of American civiliza- 
tion, and as he migrates every few years to a more 
western wilderness, his lauds are frequently occupied 
by a more intelligent and industrious class, and his im- 
provements are improved upon. The new-comer, with 
more ambition and greater resources, raises cotton 
instead of corn, and looks to the North for his necessary 
supplies of food and clothing. 

®t8l)t2-mntl) SDog. 

Fort Pillow House, 

Fu I ton, Tennessee. 

October Eighteenth. 

We passed the Missouri boundary soon after leaving 
Cottonwood in the morning and had the State of 
Arkansas on our right. Ate our luncheon in the 



352 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

canoe as we floated through a cut-off near the Tennes- 
see shore. 

Late in the afternoon we met two colored men in a 
skiff, who in answer to inquiries directed our attention 
to the site of Fort Pillow, w^iich is situated on the left 
bank of the river upon one of the Chickasaw Bluffs. 
It is about forty feet above the water and commands 
the low country opposite and two reaches of the river 
for a long distance. 

At intervals we caught glimpses of negro cabins with 
their clearings, and their little crops of cotton glisten- 
ing in the sun. Truly had the sword been beaten into 
the plowshare, and the spear into the pruning-hook. 

3Xrimtktl] Slag. 

Plantation House, 

Harrison's Landing, Arkan»aSf 

October Nineteenth. 

This was a sunny and windy day. The Arkansas 
shores afforded us protection as we paddled away from 
Fulton. The island tow-heads and sand-bars were 
numerous, and in places the Mississippi widened into 
lake-like proportions, while the yellow current, now 
heavily charged with mud, increased in height every 
hour. 

Having divested ourselves of all superfluous apparel 
we pushed soutliward with all the nerve we could 
command. The negroes at work on the plantations 
gave us a hearty hail as we passed. By a lively 
use of our paddles from seven o'clock in the morning 
until the same hour in the evening w^e were enabled 
to make Harrison's Landing, Arkansas, noting in our 
log sixty-three miles for the day. 



CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. ,35,3 

Our evening with the Harrisons of Harrison's Land- 
ing was one of the most agreeable and noteworthy ex- 
periences of our many halts on the Arkansas shore. 
It was the beginning of a long list of courtesies and 
entertainments of which Paine and myself were the re- 
cipients, but which we had hardly expected in the Far 
South, since I felt that,possibly,my service in the Union 
Army would be a bar to the usual Southern civili- 
ties; but in this we were greatly mistaken. No people 
could be more cordial in the treatment of their guests 
than were those whom it was our good fortune to meet 
in Mississippi, Arkansas, and Louisiana. 

Hotel Cochran, 

Memphis , Tennessee^ 

October Twentieth. 

We were quite surprised in the morning, on propos- 
ing payment for our accommodations, to be told by the 
Harrisons that they preferred to have us consider 
our stay at their home a visit. Having already noted 
some peculiarities of Southern hospitality we deemed it 
j)rudent not to observe our usual practice of insisting 
that payment in full should be accepted. 

With the cordial good wishes of those whom we had 
met at the Landing we again stepped into the Alice 
and pointed her prow towards Memphis, twenty-five 
miles distant. Near Randolph we passed at a distance 
large and well-cultivated cotton plantations, but the 
river country in its vicinity was almost a wilderness. 

Arrived at Memphis, we landed, and after partaking 
of refreshments, started on a tour of observation through 
the city, as was our custom. 



354 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Memphis dates its origin from the year 1820, when 
its site was selected, and the city of the future planned 
and laid out. It grew rapidly and in 1831 was incor- 
porated as a city. It is built on a bluff, forty-seven 
feet above the highest flow of the river, and its safety 
from inundation is thus assured. At a short distance 
above the city the Wolf River empties its clear stream 
into the Mississippi. Memphis is seven hundred and 
eighty miles above New Orleans, and four hundred 
and twenty below Saint Louis. Twenty years after its 
foundation the population had increased to three thou- 
sand three hundred and sixty; in 1884, it had reached 
nearly fifty thousand. Memphis has attained the 
dignity of being the most important point on the 
river between Saint Louis and New Orleans. The 
city is very tastefully and conveniently planned, and 
is adorned with many elegant and substantial private 
residences and public structures. The Esplanade, 
between Front street and the river, forms a fine ad- 
dition to the city, and here we find the Custom House, 
a splendid specimen of architecture, built of the best 
quality of marble from the Tennessee quarries. The 
business streets are wide and regular and lined with 
handsome stores. Many of the private residences are 
surrounded with beautiful lawns, ornamented with 
classic statuary and flowers in profuse variety. The 
city occupies an area of over three square miles, a 
handsome park, filled with trees, adorning its centre. 
Here also in a bust of Andrew Jackson. The ceme- 
teries are six in number. Elm wood, on the south-east 
border of the city, being the most tastefully laid out 
and the most beautiful of the number. 

Intersecting the city is the Bayou Gayoso, with several 



CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. 355 

branches, which, up to the year 1860, was the recep- 
tacle of most of the city drainage. Since that date 
over forty miles of sewers have been constructed and 
the city is now provided with a very superior and ef- 
fective system of drainage. The facilities for trans- 
portation by railway are abundant in every direction, 
and to these are added an excellent and well-appointed 
street railway. Memphis is well paved and is supplied 
with pure water from the Wolf River by the Holly 
system. 

In addition to the usual religious, educational and 
commercial institutions, the city contains a fine public 
library of about ten thousand volumes; three daily 
and ten weekly papers; a chamber of commerce, and a 
cotton exchange. The Christian Brothers' College — 
— Catholic — established in 1841, has a large number 
of professors and instructors, and a corresponding 
number of preparatory and collegiate students, whose 
training does credit to the faculty. The Memphis 
College, for the education of females, is an admirable 
institution situated within the city limits. The State 
Female College is a little outside, and is also in a 
flourishing condition. 

Navigation is open at all seasons of the year and large 
sea-going vessels ascend the river to Memphis. For 
the sale of cotton this city ranks as the largest interior 
market in the United States. It has also an extensive 
trade with Arkansas, Mississippi, West Tennessee and 
Northern Alabama. Several lines of steamboats run 
to Saint Louis, Cincinnati, Vicksburg and many other 
points. The Memphis and Little Rock Railway ter- 
minates at Hopefield, on the Arkansas side of the river, 
whence a powerful transfer-boat convevs an entire train 
at once to Memphis. 



356 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

The annual value of the trade of the city is about 
gixty-five million dollars. Foundries and machine- 
shops are among the principal manufactories. There 
are also extensive wood- works, a large tobacco factory, 
furniture factories, and three of the largest oil-mills in 
the United States. 

During the Civil War the Union forces took posses- 
sion of the city after a naval engagement in which the 
Confederate flotilla was nearly destroyed. This oc- 
curred June sixth, 1862, and the Unionists held pos- 
session until the close of the war. In August, 1864, a 
cavalry raid was made upon the city by the Con- 
federate General Forrest, who captured several hun- 
dred Federals and then departed. 

Memphis has suffered greatly from the ravages oi^ 
yellow fever. In 1878 and 1879 two-thirds of the 
population fled from the city. Business was wholly 
suspended, and for three months in each of these years 
all ingress or egress was forbidden, except for the most 
necessary purposes. The city became for a time hope- 
lessly bankrupt. It is, however, at last regaining its 
normal condition of prosperity, and by thoroughly cleans- 
ing, repaving and sewering the streets, and supervising 
the construction of buildings, is likely to become event- 
ually one of the healthiest cities on the Mississippi 
River. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG. 




Negro Cabin, 

Near Alexis^ Mississippi, 

October 21, 1881. 

N returning to our canoe at Memphis in 
the morning we found many interested 
citizens assembled on the levee to wit- 
ness our departure and to leave with us 
their good wishes for a safe and pleasant 
^ voyage to the Gulf. 

We made a miscalculation in the forenoon as 
to a cut-off, by which we lost four miles. Halted 
a few moments at a United States Survey-boat to in- 
quire distances and to further inform ourselves concern- 
ing the route to Vicksburg. 

Our first night among the colored people was brought 
about through a failure to reach a town or find a white 
family on or near the banks of the river before 
dark. Continuing our course, we hailed every visible 
light without response until nearly ten o^clock, when 
we came to the home of Robert Green, an intelligent 
and courteous colored man, who gave us a cordial wel- 
come. We did not regret the circumstances which led 
us to the cabin of a negro. I was most anxious tc 

(357j 



358 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

place myself in possession of some facts concerning 
their method of gaining a livelihood and note their 
social advancement under the favoring influences of 
freedom. During my escape from a Southern prison 
many years before, I had found shelter and protection 
among the negroes of South Carolina and Georgia, 
when, as slaves, they were looking forward to a release 
from bondage, and at a time when there was much 
speculation as to the probabilities of their future, should 
the war result in emancipation. 

Twenty years have passed, the problem has been 
solved, and every intelligent person North and South 
is thoroughly convinced that the negro has not only 
made rapid strides in the direction of intellectual de- 
velopment, but has proven himself capable of main- 
taining his family and accumulating property. 

I learned through Mr. Green of many notable ex- 
amples in which colored men have been prosperous to 
a very marked degree. He cited, among others, Ben 
Montgomery, who was at one time the slave and body- 
servant of Colonel Joseph Davis, brother of Jefferson 
Davis, ex-President of the late Confederate States. He 
was the manager of the Davis estates while a slave, 
and was so industrious and honest in all his dealings, 
and so successful in business, that after the war he was 
able to purchase his master's plantation, for which he 
paid him in gold. 

Montgomery was described as fairly educated and 
possessing the presence and address of a gentleman. 
It is a singular fact that this large landed-estate should 
have become the property of the former slave so soon 
after the war, and proves most conclusively that the 
black man may aspire to wealth and station with as 



MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG, 359 

fair a prospect of success as the more favored race. 
Ben Montgomery died some years since, leaving an 
example to his colored kindred worthy of their imita- 
tion. 

Ninety 4l)irl) Dap, 

Delmonico Hotel, 

Helena, Arkansas, 

October Twenty-second. 

As soon as we had finished breakfast at the cabin of 
our colored host, Robert Green, we called for the Alicey 
and, accompanied by all the Greens, large and small, 
hurried down to the river and pushed off. Nothing 
of an unusual character was seen until about twelve 
o'clock, when, as we rounded a bend we saw in the 
distance Helena, the most enterprising city of Arkan- 
sas. We struck the beach at one o'clock, and on step- 
ping ashore received a welcome from Arnot Harris 
and W. L. Morris. These gentlemen escorted us to 
the "Delmonico" for dinner, and extended many 
courtesies during our brief stay in their city. 

Helena, standing on the right bank of the river, 
in Phillips County, Arkansas, has become, since the 
Civil War, a very enterprising town, and is growing 
rapidly into importance. It offers many advantages 
for navigation and commerce, and the only drawback 
to its still greater advancement is the destructive 
agency of the Mississippi, which occasionally threatens 
it with inundation. If it can protect itself against the 
overflows, Helena, from its peculiarly favorable posi- 
tion, is destined to become one of the first cities on the 
Lower Mississippi. Located in a fertile cotton section, 
the facilities for shipment of that staple to other ports 
is apparent. It is eighty miles below Memphis, and is 



360 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

the terminus of the Arkansas Midland, and the Iron 
Mountain and Helena railroads. 

In the summer of 1863 Helena was held by a Union 
force under General Prentiss, strongly intrenched, the 
river also being commanded by a gunboat. July 
fourth, an unsuccessful attempt to seize the town was. 
made by a superior Confederate force under General 
Holmes. In the action which followed, the Confeder- 
ates lost one thousand six hundred and thirty-six men, 
and the Unionists two hundred and fifty. 

The present population of Helena is about four 
thousand, and it supports two banks and five news- 
papers. 

Niuets-fourtl) Dag. 

Plantation House, 

Near Modoc, Arkansas 

October Twenty-third. 

Wind, rain, and a chopped sea greeted us as we 
stepped into our canoe at an early hour in the morn- 
ing. A persistent use of our paddles supported by a 
brisk current brought us to Friar's Point at eleven 
o'clock. Here we landed, and after climbing over a 
levee walked, or rather waded, up to town through 
several inches of mud and water. 

After dinner, which we had at a restaurant, we took a 
hurried stroll through this forlorn-looking place, confin- 
ing our walk chiefly to high ground and streets favored 
with paved or board sidewalks. Should the majestic 
Mississippi conclude some fine day to take Friar's 
Point on an excursion to the Gulf, it is doubtful if 
anything but the "point" would be missed. 

Just before re-embarking we were invited aboard 
the " Doremus Floating Photograph Gallery," which 



MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG. 361 

has been upon the river for the past six years, under 
the direction of J. P. Doremus, of Paterson, New Jersey. 
Mr. Doremus explained that he made his floating gal- 
lery his home during the summer months, and that he 
had photographed every object of interest between 
Minneapolis and Vicksburg. Many of the views sub- 
mitted for our inspection were faithful representations 
of Mississippi scenery, and will prove a valuable con- 
tribution to the illustrated history of the Great River. 

The w^eather was showery throughout the afternoon, 
but in anticipation of several days more of the same 
sort we thought it best to continue our voyage, and 
pressed forward determined to cover as many miles as 
possible before nightfall. 

The small landing and postal station known as 
Modoc was reached a few minutes before six o'clock. 
Here we spent the night with J. E. McGuire and 
family, a wealthy and enterprising cotton-planter, who 
named the place and established a post-office soon 
after the Modoc War. We were much gratified to 
note in our log a gain of forty-eight miles for our 
ninety-fourth day. 

Ninet^^tttt) JDa^. 

Boarding House, 

Concordia, Mississippi, 

October Twenty -fourth. 

Our Modoc landlord, Mr. McGuire, gave us the 
launch at eight o'clock, pushing the Alice into a brisk 
current which, at this point, is said to be about seven 
miles an hour. Contrary to our predictions of the 
previous day, the weather was cool and pleasant, with 
wind up stream. 



362 DOTTiV THE GREAT RIVER. 

We met the steamer Vickshurg near " Island No. 
^Qy^ and greeted her passengers and crew by raising 
our hats. This courtesy was responded to by the Vicks- 
hurg Yf'iih her usual salute of three whistles. Dined 
with a cotton-planter on the Arkansas side, opposite 
Mahone's Landing, Mississippi. Laconia was passed 
at five o'clock in the afternoon and Concordia reached 
a few minutes before six. Several miles were saved in 
this day's run by availing ourselves of cut-ofFs. Dis- 
tance covered forty-five miles. 

Private House, 

Bolivar , Mississippif 

October Twenty-fifth. 

The low banks of the river below Memphis brought 
plainly to view the levees or dikes built as a protection 
against the inroads of freshets. The mouths of the 
White and Arkansas rivers were passed during the 
afternoon of this day, the latter of which is the largest 
western tributary of the Mississippi south of the 
Missouri. 

Below the mouth of the Arkansas is, or rather was, 
the town of Napoleon, at one time a place of enter- 
prise and importance on the Lower Mississippi, but 
now represented by only a few scattered houses, the 
most demoralized-looking hamlet we had seen since 
leaving Minneiska, at the other end of the river. The 
banks were tumbling into the stream day by day. 
Houses had fallen into the current which was rapidly 
undermining the town. Here and there chimneys 
were observed standing in solitude, the buildings having 
been torn down and removed to other localities in 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 379 

the exercise of their rights as freemen. The sanguin- 
ary race-encounters at the polls in the South, reported 
in the Northern papers since 1865, not unfrequently 
with much exaggeration, are things of the past — let ua 
hope never to be revived ; and, as the years roll by and 
the rising generation of blacks, with their minds free 
from the shackles of ignorance as their bodies are from 
slavery, that the color-line will cease to be an obstacle 
to political and other preferment, and white and black 
live together and work for their common good in har- 
mony and peace. 

BONDURANT LANDING, 

Saint Joseph, Louisiana, 
November First. 

Before resuming our voyage on the following morn- 
ing we were allowed to inspect a cotton-gin, through 
the courtesy of Hon. J. W. Goodrum, brother of our 
host at Warren ton. We had noticed several of these 
gins on plantations after passing Vicksburg, but this was 
the first we had seen in operation, and we were much 
interested by the apparently complicated though really 
simple process of manipulating the useful vegetable 
product before its transmission to the manufacturer 
to be converted into material for clothing. 

At Point Pleasant we halted for lunch and made the 
acquaintance of Albert Bland. After our meal, taken 
at his commodious store, I had a conversation with 
him in relation to the political condition of Louis- 
iana. His views were based on intelligent inves- 
tigation and appeared thoroughly sincere, and al- 
though presented from a Southern standpoint, were 

by no means partisan or illiberal. I left him with a 
26 



380 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

most favorable impression on my mind of the growth 
of a sentiment which bade fair soon to unite all sections 
of our common country in the bonds of fraternal citizen- 
ship. 

Grand Gulf, a small village standing on a high 
bluff, and one of the mouths of Big Black River, were 
reached at four o'clock in the afternoon. The Big 
Black takes its rise in Chocktaw County, and after a 
course of two hundred miles, enters the Mississippi 
through two mouths, one of which is in Warren 
County, and the other in Claiborne County at Grand 
Gulf. Here we disembarked a few minutes after sun- 
set, at the point where General Grant landed during 
the operations against Bruinberg in 1863. I was 
kindly received as a guest at the Bondurant Planta- 
tion and honored by being assigned to the room for- 
merly occupied by the great general. 

Our run for the day was sixty-four miles between 
nine o'clock in the morning and six in the evening, 
one of the best heats in our long race to the sea, and 
a showing to which even a veteran canoeist might 
possibly refer with some pride. It is due, however, to 
my companion, Paine, that I should candidly con- 
fess that the credit belonged chiefly to his vigorous 
arms, as he used the double paddle in the bow of the 
canoe. 

®ne ^unbretr anir Jourtt) Dag. 

Plantation House, 

Hosedale Landing, Louisiana, 
November Second. 

Breakfasted rather late at the Bondurant Planta- 
tion, at which our worthy host surprised us with a 
bountiful mess of fresh perch, caught by negroes in a 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 381 

bayou on the estate. Mr. Bondurant entertained us 
so agreeably and hospitably that we were startled to 
find it nine o'clock while boarding the Alice. He 
pushed us out from the landing, while a gatherii>g of 
white and colored people on the banks waved their caps 
and cheered us God-speed. On nearing General Zachar)* 
Taylor's old plantation, a heavy and protracted rain^ 
storm forced us to pull ashore. Here we were re- 
galed with a generous lunch, and listened to stories of 
"Old Zach./' related with enthusiasm by colored 
admirers of the hero; and while the storm lasts and 
prevents our departure, we will tell the reader what 
we know of the hero of Buena Vista. 

The family tree of this American patriot blossomed 
long ago on English shores, and the blood of his 
forefathers is said to have been both ancient and 
blue. The emigration of the family to Virginia took 
place in 1692, and the history of that State is inter- 
threaded in warp and woof with outcroppings of this 
distinguished name. 

General Taylor's father held a colonel's commission 
in the Eevolutionary War, and manfully helped to 
mould the country towards its future greatness. In 
1790, the family moved to Kentucky, when young 
Zachary was less than a year old, and when the em- 
bryo State was little more than a battle-ground for 
contending tribes of Indians and the bloody wars then 
raging between the red and white races. Colonel 
Taylor, the father, bore so conspicuous a part in these 
early struggles as to render his name a terror to the 
barbarian foe, and a tower of strength to the settlers 
whose banner he bore. When peace at last brought 
repose to the country, he became one of Kentucky's 



382 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

leading politicians and public men. He helped frame 
the constitution of his State, represented Jefferson 
County and the city of Louisville for years in both 
branches of the legislature, and voted as a member of 
the electoral college for Jefferson, Madison, Monroe 
and Clay. His sons and daughters were left a grand 
heritage of fame, staunch character, and the true grit 
which fights for principle against all odds. 

The younger Taylor, Zachary, is said to have had a 
boyhood filled with adventure and touched with the 
bold characteristics and heroic traits which afterwards 
distinguished his life. Raised on the frontier, exposed 
daily and nightly to sudden attacks from the surround- 
ing Indian tribes, in danger of being scalped on his 
way to school, buffeted by the rough wind of adverse 
circumstances, he attained a character of strength 
which no gentler rearing could give. His opportuni- 
ties for the discipline of the schools were meagre 
enough, but his great will-power and untiring perse- 
verance enabled him to master an education where 
others would have failed. 

In 1808, when the embers of the on-coming war 
were being fanned into flame and the capture of the 
United States Frigate Chesapeake by a British ship of 
war sent a thrill of indignation through the country, 
young Taylor made application to Jefferson for a 
commission in the army, and, on the third of May in 
that year, was created first-lieutenant in the Seventh 
Regiment, United States Infantry. In 1812, he was 
promoted to a captaincy, and having been placed in 
command of Fort Harrison, on the Wabash, about 
fifty miles above Vincennes, Indiana, he successfully 
repelled an attack of savages greatly outnumbering his 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. j^s3 

own little band, and by his skilful strategy and her- 
oisnij covered his youthful name with glory. It was 
within an hour of midnight when the Fort was fired 
and the attack commenced. Surrounded by a yelling 
horde of four hundred and fifty Indians, this boy-cap- 
tain calmly gave his orders amid the rushing of the 
flames and the cries of women and children inside, who 
had sought the protection of the Fort. By heroic ef- 
forts the flames were extinguished, temporary breast- 
works were erected and such a storm of shot poured in- 
to the enemy's ranks that by morning they were over- 
powered, and Captain Taylor and his men were left 
victors of the field. The country resounded with the 
praises of this officer of only twenty -two years, and the 
brave defence won for him the brevet rank of major. 

During the years intervening between 1815 and 
1832, Major Taylor was stationed at various frontier 
posts in the West and rendered efficient service. He 
had been promoted to the rank of lieutenant-colonel, 
and in the last-named year was appointed commander 
of the regular troops in the Black Hawk War. At the 
close of this war he received the appointment of colo- 
nel of the First Regiment, Infantry, then doing duty 
on the Upper Mississippi. Here he acted as Indian 
agent for several years, and acquired great influence 
over his dusky brethren, being known among them as 
the "Big Chief.'' In 1836, having been ordered to 
Florida, the brilliant and bloody battle of Okee-cho- 
bee was fought, in which Colonel Taylor so distin- 
guished himself as to receive the brevet rank of briga- 
dier-general. He was assigned command of the 
operations in Florida, and continued there until 1840, 
making four years of difficult service in that particu- 
lar field. 



334 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

During this Florida war, General Taylor was cen- 
sured for employing bloodhounds to ascertain the 
hiding-places of the wily foe ; but the censure was ill- 
considered, since he himself said, in a letter on the 
subject, that his object in employing dogs was to " as- 
certain where the Indians were, not to injure them.'^ 

The admission of Texas into the Union, in 1845, 
having virtually brought on the Mexican War, Gen- 
eral Taylor became at once one of the most promhient 
actors in that great military drama. 

He was recalled by the Secretary of War, Mr. 
Marcy, from Louisiana to the defence of Texas, and 
appointed to the command of the army of occupation 
there. In August, he took up his position at Corpus 
Christi, on the west side of the Nueces, where he re- 
mained until March, 1846, at which time he went to 
the Rio Grande, as far as Fort Brown — or where Fort 
Brown afterwards stood — a distance of one hundred 
and nineteen miles. 

Ampudia remonstrated against the blockade of the 
Kio Grande in vain, and thus matters progressed until 
the war was fairly inaugurated. General Arista had 
succeeded Ampudia in the command of the Mexican 
forces and on one or two minor occasions— when small 
detachments of Americans had been surrounded and 
captured by overwhelming numbers — he issued the 
most astonishing congratulatory orders, proclaiming 
the success of their arms. But this inflated bubble of 
bombast was doomed to be pricked. 

Taylor advanced to Point Isabel and soon afterwards 
the bloody battle of Palo Alto was fought. For two 
hours the havoc raged with unceasing fury, and regi- 
ments of Mexican lancers and cavalry were mowed 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 337 

down like grass before the heavy fire of our artillery. 
The long prairie grass of Palo Alto, which reached 
nearly to the muzzle of the guns, was set on fire by the 
continuous sheet of flame issuing from our cannon, 
and enveloped the contending armies in a cloud of 
smoke. At the end of two hours a new battle line 
wais formed under cover of the smoke and the conflict 
was renewed with increased vigor. For three hours 
longer the fighting continued. Again and again the 
Mexican line advanced to the onset with a brave 
front and were as many times hurled back in defeat. 
Arista endeavored to turn our flank and get possession 
of the stores in our rear, but his efforts were parried 
by more skilful resistance, and at last, as night set in, 
the enemy were driven in disorder from the field, and 
the Americans held a clear title of victory to the 
grounds of Palo Alto. At this battle two thousand 
men under General Taylor confronted and defeated 
six thousand Mexicans. The enemy's loss in killed, 
wounded and missing was estimated at one thousand. 
The memorable day was that of May eighth, 1846. 

General Taylor is said to have exhibited an utter 
disregard of danger when in battle, always inspiring 
his men by his presence where the balls flew thickest 
and death seemed most imminent. At Palo Alto, he 
rode up to the Fifth Infantry on the American right 
as the Mexican Lancers charged down upon them, and 
addressed them in these words : " Men, I place myself 
in your square ! " How much this act influenced the 
gallant repulse of the charge, who can tell ? 

The brilliant victory of Resaca de la Pal ma, in which 
General La Vega was captured, followed Palo Alto 
on the next day, and was almost or quite as hotly 



388 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

contested and perhaps quite as bloody. Arista's eamp 
was captured with all its prodigal display of military 
grandeur and profuse splendor of equipage, and the 
American army partook of a bountiful supper from the- 
contents of the camp-kettles simmering on the fires, left 
in such sudden haste when the panic came on. The 
tricolor of the Tampico Battalion was also captured 
and is still preserved among the nation's trophies of 
war. During the engagement General Taylor seemed 
to be everywhere at once as the inspiring and sustain- 
ing spirit of the great action. His official report of 
the affair is full of a clear sagacity as well as great 
modestv and reveals the character of the man. 

The two victories of Palo Alto and Resaca de la 
Pal ma were all the more praiseworthy from the fact 
that the American army on these occasions contended 
against a force four times its number, and nothing 
but superior skill and generalship, added to well-disci- 
plined troops, could have braved the repeated and 
furious onsets of the Mexicans. General Ampudia, 
second in command to Arista, barely escaped drown- 
ing while crossing the Rio Grande in the disorderly 
retreat which followed the battle. He rushed into the 
Plaza of Metamoras — the first man who entered the 
city with the news — exclaiming, " All is lost ! " 

On that night of terrible repulse to the enemy, 
between four and five thousand panic-stricken and 
lawless soldiers, were wandering about the streets of 
Metamoras, abandoned to the despair of the hour. 
Ampudia denounced Arista, and the women of the city 
tore down the festoons from the ball-rooms where they 
had prepared a festival in honor of the expected vic- 
tory — and then threw aside and trampled upon their 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 389 

gay apparel. Citizens fled to the country, only per- 
haps to fall by the way into the hands of pillagers and 
murderers or scattered bodies of unorganized troops. 
Neither social nor civil nor military order had any 
place in this carnival of riot and confusion. 

On the eleventh, there was an exchange of prisoners, 
among whom on our side were Captains Thornton and 
Hardee and Lieutenant Lane. 

The Mexican array was now in full retreat and our 
successes were followed up by crossing the Rio Grande, 
taking possession of Metamoras and giving to the in- 
habitants of that city the security and protection which 
their own troops were unable to furnish. Here Gen- 
eral Taylor was obliged to wait for reinforcements 
and wagons for a period of about three months before 
he could advance to the attack of Monterey. The 
Mexicans, meantime, had become strongly intrenched 
behind the natural and artificial fortifications of that 
walled city with an opposing force of ten thousand 
men, under command of Ampudia. The rugged heights 
of Monterey were supposed to be impregnable. For 
ten years it had been held by a handful of native 
troops, defying the Spanish power. To attempt its 
reduction would be to rush into the very jaws of death 
— for their guns commanded the entire approach. Yet 
against this famous stronghold General Taylor con- 
fidently advanced with a force of but six thousand men. 
After a march of twelve da}^s he came in sight of the 
beautiful city enthroned among its mountains. 

Thick stone walls environed it. Ditches and redoubts 
and bastions and a river in its rear, protected it. But 
the attack was skilfully undertaken, the city was 
stormed and in a few days the vaunted fortress of the 



390 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

Aztecs — the strongest save Vera Cruz in all Mexico — > 
was in our hands. The generalship of Taylor on this 
occasion has been lauded everywhere, and well does 
his memory deserve the highest tribute paid to military 
genius. 

Meantime Santa Anna had returned from exile at 
Havana, and gathering around him a force of twenty- 
two thousand men, set out from San Louis Potosi to 
drive back the Americans. This army Taylor met on 
the field of Buena Vista — eight miles from Saltillo — 
with a volunteer soldiery — Scott having drawn off 
most of the regulars for other points. Our troops 
were formed in line of battle in a mountain-pass under 
the towering peaks of the Sierra Madre, two thousand 
feet high. They occupied a lower spur of the range 
and advancing up the mountain side, their continuous 
firing after the battle had begun, wrapped the ascent 
in a sheet of smoky flame. The contest raged furiously 
along the whole line, and thrice during the ten hours 
of terrible conflict did the balance of victory seem to 
hang by a single thread — the immense numbers of the 
Mexicans almost insuring our defeat. 

But the victory was at last ours though won at a fear- 
ful cost of life. How could it be otherwise when five 
thousand Americans were pitted against an enemy 
twenty thousand strong ? " Throughout the action 
General Taylor was where the shot fell hottest and 
thickest, two of which pierced his clothes.'^ 

When a canister shot tore through the breast of his 
coat he remarked coolly that '^ those balls are grow- 
ing excited." 

At one time during the fray he watched the fighting 
of some Kentucky regiments — his own State troops — • 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 391 

supposiDg them to be faltering; then, learning his 
mistake and seeing them advance in solid phalanx, he 
couldn't help shouting, " Hurrah for old Kentuck ! '' 
while tears of joy ran down his cheeks. 

" And thus on Buena Vista's heights, a long day's work was done 
And thus our brave old general another battle won ; 
And still our glorious banner waves unstained by flight or shame, 
And the Mexicans among their hills still tremble at our name. 
So honor unto those that stood ! Disgrace to those that fled ! 
And everlasting honor to the brave and gallant dead !" 

The military exploits of General Taylor were in- 
deed glorious, but these could not outshine his tender- 
heartedness, his humanity and his noble qualities as a 
man. The fall of Hardin and McKee and Lincoln 
and young Clay, besides many others of his personal 
friends, affected him deeply, and drew forth heartfelt 
words of sympathy to the grief-stricken families. 

After the battles of Palo Alto and Eesaca de la 
Palma, Taylor received the appointment of major- 
general, which was confirmed by Congress, and he was 
constituted commander-in-chief of all the forces in 
Mexico — a position which he held until Scott was or- 
dered to that country in 1846. 

One of Taylor's personal peculiarities was an aver- 
sion to uniforms or full dress of any description ; and 
in summer he delighted in cotton pantaloons, straw hat 
and linen roundabout. In character he was every 
inch the general. No emergency, however great, 
overthrew him. If dangers arose, he confronted them ; 
if difficulties, he became their master. Superior in 
judgment, superior in tactical skill and strategy, 
prompt and decisive in action, he has conquered a 
name and fame in the four desperate battles of the 



392 BOWIV THE GREAT RIVER. 

Mexican War, which lias won for him laurels of death* 
less renown. 

®\u <5untrreir anlr Jttll) Cla^- 

Foster House, 

Natchez, 3Iississippif 

November Third. 

The Alice, having been carried up to the plantation 
house at Rosedale the previous evening, was borne 
back to the river this morning on the shoulders of 
three burly negroes, who seemed very proud of the 
opportunity of rendering a service to the Northern 
strangers. 

We found the aspect of the country very much 
ohanged as we approached Natchez. Large and well- 
tilled plantations protected by levees now skirted the 
river-banks, while occasional forests of dense green, 
heavily draped with Spanish moss, threw dark shad- 
ows on our watery path. 

Soon after landing at Natchez we had the pleasure 
of attending a political meeting at which the Hon. 
L. Q. C. Lamar was the principal speaker, and 
were very much impressed by the liberal sentiments 
to which he gave expression. The senator spoke 
in advocacy of General Lowry, the democratic candi- 
date for governor. Among other things, my memory 
recalls the following : '^ As they had accepted the situa- 
tion at the close of the war thej should act in good 
faith and endeavor to adapt themselves to the circum- 
stances in which they were now placed and which fol- 
lowed the arbitrament to which they had succumbed. 
Northern men and Northern capitalists should be en- 
couraged to come South and made welcome to join 




SPORT AMONG THE BAYOUS. 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 379 

the exercise of their rights as freemen. The sanguin- 
ary race-encounters at the polls in the South, reported 
in the Northern papers since 1865, not unfrequently 
with much exaggeration, are things of the past — let ua 
hope never to be revived ; and, as the years roll by and 
the rising generation of blacks, with their minds free 
from the shackles of ignorance as their bodies are from 
slavery, that the color-line will cease to be an obstacle 
to political and other preferment, and white and black 
live together and work for their common good in har- 
mony and peace. 

BONDUKANT LANDING, 

Saint Joseph, Louisiana, 
November First. 

Before resuming our voyage on the following morn- 
ing we were allowed to inspect a cotton-gin, through 
the courtesy of Hon. J. W. Goodrum, brother of our 
host at Warrenton. We had noticed several of these 
gins on plantations after passing Vicksburg, but this was 
the first we had seen in operation, and we were much 
interested by the apparently complicated though really 
simple process of manipulating the useful vegetable 
product before its transmission to the manufacturer 
to be converted into material for clothing. 

At Point Pleasant we halted for lunch and made the 
acquaintance of Albert Bland. After our meal, taken 
at his commodious store, I had a conversation with 
him in relation to the political condition of Louis- 
iana. His views were based on intelligent inves- 
tigation and appeared thoroughly sincere, and al- 
though presented from a Southern standpoint, were 

by no means partisan or illiberal. I left him with 8 
26 



380 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

most favorable impression on my mind of the growth 
of a sentiment which bade fair soon to unite all sections 
of our common country in the bonds of fraternal citizen- 
ship. 

Grand Gulf, a small village standing on a high 
bluif, and one of the mouths of Big Black River, were 
reached at four o'clock in the afternoon. The Big 
Black takes its rise in Chocktaw County, and after a 
course of two hundred miles, enters the Mississippi 
through two mouths, one of which is in Warren 
County, and the other in Claiborne County at Grand 
Gulf. Here we disembarked a few minutes after sun- 
set, at the point where General Grant landed during 
the operations against Bruinberg in 1863. I was 
kindly received as a guest at the Bondurant Planta- 
tion and honored by being assigned to the room for- 
merly occupied by the great general. 

Our run for the day was sixty-four miles between 
nine o'clock in the morning and six in the evening, 
one of the best heats in our long race to the sea, and 
a showing to which even a veteran canoeist might 
possibly refer with some pride. It is due, however, to 
my companion, Paine, that I should candidly con- 
fess that the credit belonged chiefly to his vigorous 
arms, as he used the double paddle in the bow of the 
canoe. 

Plantation House, 

Mosedale Landing, Louisiana, 
November Second. 

Breakfasted rather late at the Bondurant Planta- 
tion, at which our worthy host surprised us with a 
bountiful mess of fresh perch, caught by negroes in a 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 381 

bayou on the estate. Mr. Bondarant entertained us 
so agreeably and hospitably that we were startled to 
find it nine o'clock while boarding the Alice. He 
pushed us out from the landing, while a gathering of 
white and colored people on the banks waved their caps 
and cheered us God-speed. On nearing General Zachar}» 
Taylor's old plantation, a heavy and protracted rain^ 
storm forced us to pull ashore. Here we were re- 
galed with a generous lunch, and listened to stories of 
" Old Zach./' related with enthusiasm by colored 
admirers of the hero; and while the storm lasts and 
prevents our departure, we will tell the reader what 
we know of the hero of Buena Vista. 

The family tree of this American patriot blossomed 
long ago on English shores, and the blood of his 
forefathers is said to have been both ancient and 
blue. The emigration of the family to Virginia took 
place in 1692, and the history of that State is inter- 
threaded in warp and woof with outcroppings of this 
distinguished name. 

General Taylor's father held a colonel's commission 
in the Revolutionary War, and manfully helped to 
mould the country towards its future greatness. In 
1790, the family moved to Kentucky, when young 
Zachary was less than a year old, and when the em- 
bryo State was little more than a battle-ground for 
contending tribes of Indians and the bloody wars then 
raging between the red and white races. Colonel 
Taylor, the father, bore so conspicuous a part in these 
early struggles as to render his name a terror to the 
barbarian foe, and a tower of strength to the settlers 
whose banner he bore. When peace at last brought 
repose to the country, he became one of Kentucky's 



382 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

leading politicians and public men. He helped frame 
the constitution of his State, represented JeflPerson 
County and the city of Louisville for years in both 
branches of the legislature, and voted as a member of 
the electoral college for Jefferson, Madison, Monroe 
and Clay. His sons and daughters were left a grand 
heritage of fame, staunch character, and the true grit 
which fights for principle against all odds. 

The younger Taylor, Zachary, is said to have had a 
boyhood filled with adventure and touched with the 
bold characteristics and heroic traits which afterwards 
distinguished his life. Raised on the frontier, exposed 
daily and nightly to sudden attacks from the surround- 
ing Indian tribes, in danger of being scalped on his 
way to school, buffeted by the rough wind of adverse 
circumstances, he attained a character of strength 
which no gentler rearing could give. His opportuni- 
ties for the discipline of the schools were meagre 
enough, but his great will-power and untiring perse- 
verance enabled him to master an education where 
others would have failed. 

In 1808, when the embers of the on-coming war 
were being fanned into flame and the capture of the 
United States Frigate Chesapeake by a British ship of 
war sent a thrill of indignation through the country, 
young Taylor made application to Jefferson for a 
commission in the army, and, on the third of May in 
that year, was created first-lieutenant in the Seventh 
Regiment, United States Infantry. In 1812, he was 
promoted to a captaincy, and having been placed in 
command of Fort Harrison, on the Wabash, about 
fifty miles above Vincennes, Indiana, he successfully 
repelled an attack of savages greatly outnumbering his 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. ?583 

own little band, and by bis skilful strategy and her- 
oism, covered his youthful name with glory. It was 
within an hour of midnight when the Fort was fired 
and the attack commenced. Surrounded by a yelling 
horde of four hundred and fifty Indians, this boy-cap- 
tain calmly gave his orders amid the rushing of the 
flames and the cries of women and children inside, who 
had sought the protection of the Fort. By heroic ef- 
forts the flames were extinguished, temporary breast- 
works were erected and such a storm of shot poured in- 
to the enemy's ranks that by morning they were over- 
powered, and Captain Taylor and his men were left 
victors of the field. The country resounded with the 
praises of this officer of only twenty-two years, and the 
brave defence won for him the brevet rank of major. 

During the years intervening between 1815 and 
1832, Major Taylor was stationed at various frontier 
posts in the West and rendered efficient service. He 
had been promoted to the rank of lieutenant-colonel, 
and in the last-named year was appointed commander 
of the regular troops in the Black Hawk War. At the 
close of this war he received the appointment of colo- 
nel of the First Regiment, Infantry, then doing duty 
on the Upper Mississippi. Here he acted as Indian 
agent for several years, and acquired great influence 
over his dusky brethren, being known among them as 
the "Big Chief." In 1836, having been ordered to 
Florida, the brilliant and bloody battle of Okee-cho- 
bee was fought, in which Colonel Taylor so distin- 
guished himself as to receive the brevet rank of briga- 
dier-general. He was assigned command of the 
operations in Florida, and continued there until 1840, 
making four years of difficult service in that particu- 
lar field. 



384 DOWN THE GREAT RlVEB. 

During this Florida war, General Taylor was cen- 
sured for employing bloodhounds to ascertain the 
hiding-places of the wily foe ; but the censure was ill- 
considered, since he himself said, in a letter on the 
subject, that his object in employing dogs was to " as- 
certain where the Indians were, not to injure them." 

The admission of Texas into the Union, in 1845, 
having virtually brought on the Mexican War, Gen- 
eral Taylor became at once one of the most prominent 
actors in that great military drama. 

He was recalled by the Secretary of War, Mr. 
Marcy, from Louisiana to the defence of Texas, and 
appointed to the command of the army of occupation 
there. In August, he took up his position at Corpus 
Christi, on the west side of the Nueces, where he re- 
mained until March, 1846, at which time he went to 
the Rio Grande, as far as Fort Brown — or where Fort 
Brown afterwards stood — a distance of one hundred 
and nineteen miles. 

Ampudia remonstrated against the blockade of the 
Rio Grande in vain, and thus matters progressed until 
the war was fairly inaugurated. General Arista had 
succeeded Ampudia in the command of the Mexican 
forces and on one or two minor occasions— when small 
detachments of Americans had been surrounded and 
captured by overwhelming numbers — he issued the 
most astonishing congratulatory orders, proclaiming 
the success of their arms. But this inflated bubble of 
bombast was doomed to be pricked. 

Taylor advanced to Point Isabel and soon afterwards 
the bloody battle of Palo Alto was fought. For two 
hours the havoc raged with unceasing fury, and regi- 
ments of Mexican lancers and cavalry were mowed 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 387 

down like grass before the heavy fire of our artillery. 
The long prairie grass of Palo Alto, which reached 
nearly to the muzzle of the guns, was set on fire by the 
continuous sheet of flame issuing from our cannon, 
and enveloped the contending armies in a cloud of 
smoke. At the end of two hours a new battle line 
was formed under cover of the smoke and the conflict 
was renewed with increased vigor. For three hours 
longer the fighting continued. Again and again the 
Mexican line advanced to the onset with a brave 
front and were as many times hurled back in defeat. 
Arista endeavored to turn our flank and get possession 
of the stores in our rear, but his efibrts were parried 
by more skilful resistance, and at last, as night set in, 
the enemy were driven in disorder from the field, and 
the Americans held a clear title of victory to the 
grounds of Palo Alto. At this battle two thousand 
men under General Taylor confronted and defeated 
six thousand Mexicans. The enemy's loss in killed, 
wounded and missing was estimated at one thousand. 
The memorable day was that of May eighth, 1846. 

General Taylor is said to have exhibited an utter 
disregard of danger when in battle, always inspiring 
his men by his presence where the balls flew thickest 
and death seemed most imminent. At Palo Alto, he 
rode up to the Fifth Infantry on the American right 
as the Mexican Lancers charged down upon them, and 
addressed them in these words : " Men, I place myself 
in your square ! " How much this act influenced the 
gallant repulse of the charge, who can tell ? 

The brilliant victory of Resaca de la Pal ma, in which 
General La Yega was captured, followed Palo Alto 
on the next day, and was almost or quite as hotly 



388 • DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

contested and perhaps quite as bloody. Arista's eamp 
was captured with all its prodigal display of military 
grandeur and profuse splendor of equipage, and the 
American army partook of a bountiful supper from the 
contents of the camp-kettles simmering on the fires, left 
in such sudden haste when the panic came on. The 
tricolor of the Tampico Battalion was also captured 
and is still preserved among the nation's trophies of 
war. During the engagement General Taylor seemed 
to be everywhere at once as the inspiring and sustain- 
ing spirit of the great action. His official report of 
the affair is full of a clear sagacity as well as great 
modestv and reveals the character of the man. 

The two victories of Palo Alto and Resaca de la 
Palma were all the more praiseworthy from the fact 
that the American army on these occasions contended 
against a force four times its number, and nothing 
but superior skill and generalship, added to well -disci- 
plined troops, could have braved the repeated and 
furious onsets of the Mexicans. General Ampudia, 
second in command to Arista, barely escaped drown- 
ing while crossing the Rio Grande in the disorderly 
retreat which followed the battle. He rushed into the 
Plaza of Metamoras — the first man who entered the 
city with the news— exclaiming, " All is lost ! '' 

On that night of terrible repulse to the enemy, 
between four and five thousand panic-stricken and 
lawless soldiers, were wandering about the streets of 
Metamoras, abandoned to the despair of the hour. 
Ampudia denounced Arista, and the women of the city 
tore down the festoons from the ball-rooms where they 
had prepared a festival in honor of the expected vic- 
tory — and then threw aside and trampled upon their 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 339 

gay apparel. Citizens fled to the country, only per- 
haps to fall by the way into the hands of pillagers and 
murderers or scattered bodies of unorganized troops. 
Neither social nor civil nor military order had any 
place in this carnival of riot and confusion. 

On the eleventh, there was an exchange of prisoners, 
among whom on our side were Captains Thornton and 
Hardee and Lieutenant Lane. 

The Mexican army was now in full retreat and our 
successes were followed up by crossing the Rio Grande, 
taking possession of Metamoras and giving to the in- 
habitants of that city the security and protection which 
their own troops were unable to furnish. Here Gen- 
eral Taylor was obliged to wait for reinforcements 
and wagons for a period of about three months before 
he could advance to the attack of Monterey. The 
Mexicans, meantime, had become strongly intrenched 
behind the natural and artificial fortifications of that 
walled city with an opposing force of ten thousand 
men, under command of Ampudia. The rugged heights 
of Monterey were supposed to be impregnable. For 
ten years it had been held by a handful of native 
troops, defying the Spanish power. To attempt its 
reduction would be to rush into the very jaws of death 
— for their guns commanded the entire approach. Yet 
against this famous stronghold General Taylor con- 
fidently advanced with a force of but six thousand men. 
After a march of twelve daj^s he came in sight of the 
beautiful city enthroned among its mountains. 

Thick stone walls environed it. Ditches and redoubts 
and bastions and a river in its rear, protected it. But 
the attack was skilfully undertaken, the city was 
stormed and in a few days the vaunted fortress of the 



390 DOTFiV^ THE GREAT RIVER. 

Aztecs — the strongest save Vera Cruz in all Mexico — • 
was in our hands. The generalship of Taylor on this 
occasion has been lauded everywhere, and well does 
his memory deserve the highest tribute paid to military 
genius. 

Meantime Santa Anna had returned from exile at 
Havana, and gathering around him a force of twenty- 
two thousand men, set out from San Louis Potosi to 
drive back the Americans. This army Taylor met on 
the field of Buena Vista — eight miles from Saltillo — 
with a volunteer soldiery — Scott having drawn off 
most of the regulars for other points. Our troops 
were formed in line of battle in a mountain-pass under 
the towering peaks of the Sierra Madre, two thousand 
feet high. They occupied a lower spur of the range 
and advancing up the mountain side, their continuous 
firing after the battle had begun, wrapped the ascent 
in a sheet of smoky flame. The contest raged furiously 
along the whole line, and thrice during the ten hours 
of terrible conflict did the balance of victory seem to 
hang by a single thread — the immense numbers of the 
Mexicans almost insuring our defeat. 

But the victory was at last ours though won at a fear- 
ful cost of life. How could it be otherwise when five 
thousand Americans were pitted against an enemy 
twenty thousand strong ? " Throughout the action 
General Taylor was where the shot fell hottest and 
thickest, two of which pierced his clothes.'^ 

When a canister shot tore through the breast of his 
coat he remarked coolly that " those balls are grow- 
ing excited." 

At one time during the fray he watched the fighting 
of some Kentucky regiments — his own State troops — • 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 391 

supposing them to be faltering; then, learning his 
mistake and seeing them advance in solid phalanx, he 
couldn't help shouting, " Hurrah for old Kentuck ! '' 
while tears of joy ran down his cheeks. 

" And thus on Buena Vista's heights, a long day's work was done 
And thus our brave old general another battle won ; 
And still our glorious banner waves unstained by flight or shame, 
And the Mexicans among their hills still tremble at our name. 
So honor unto those that stood ! Disgrace to those that fled ! 
And everlasting honor to the brave and gallant dead ! " 

The military exploits of General Taylor were in- 
deed glorious, but these could not outshine his tender- 
heartedness, his humanity and his noble qualities as a 
man. The fall of Hardin and McKee and Lincoln 
and young Clay, besides many others of his personal 
friends, affected him deeply, and drew forth heartfelt 
words of sympathy to the grief-stricken families. 

After the battles of Palo Alto and Resaca de la 
Palma, Taylor received the appointment of major- 
general, which was confirmed by Congress, and he was 
constituted commander-in-chief of all the forces in 
Mexico — a position which he held until Scott was or- 
dered to that country in 1846. 

One of Taylor's personal peculiarities was an aver- 
sion to uniforms or full dress of any description ; and 
in summer he delighted in cotton pantaloons, straw hat 
and linen roundabout. In character he was every 
inch the general. No emergency, however great, 
overthrew him. If dangers arose, he confronted them ; 
if difficulties, he became their master. Superior in 
judgment, superior in tactical skill and strategy, 
prompt and decisive in action, he has conquered a 
name and fame ia the four desperate battles of the 



392 DOWIV THE GREAT RIVER. 

Mexican War, which lias won for him laurels of death- 
less renown. 

®\\t ^unDreb aitir Jtfll) Sag. 

Foster House, 
Natchez, Mississippi^ 
" November Third. 

The AlicCj having been carried up to the plantation 
house at Rosedale the previous evening, was borne 
back to the river this morning on the shoulders of 
three burly negroes, who seemed very proud of the 
opportunity of rendering a service to the Northern 
strangers. 

We found the aspect of the country very much 
changed as we approached Natchez. Large and well- 
tilled plantations protected by levees now skirted the 
river-banks, while occasional forests of dense green, 
heavily draped with Spanish moss, threw dark shad- 
ows on our watery path. 

Soon after landing at Natchez we had the pleasure 
of attending a political meeting at which the Hon. 
L. Q. C. Lamar was the principal speaker, and 
were very much impressed by the liberal sentiments 
to which he gave expression. The senator spoke 
in advocacy of General Lowry, the democratic candi- 
date for governor. Among other things, my memory 
recalls the following : " As they had accepted the situa- 
tion at the close of the war they should act in good 
faith and endeavor to adapt themselves to the circum- 
stances in which they were now placed and which fol- 
lowed the arbitrament to which they had succumbed. 
Northern men and Northern capitalists should be en- 
couraged to come South and made welcome to join 




SPOKT AMONG THE BAYOUS. 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 395 

them in the development of their industries and com- 
mercial enterprises. It was their duty to do all in 
their power to promote the growth of good feeling be- 
tween the sections and show the people of the North 
that they were now not less loyal to the old flag than 
those who had carried it through the war." The re- 
mainder of the speech was in the same liberal and en- 
lightened strain. After the meeting at the Court 
House, I saw Senator Lamar in the parlor of the 
Foster House and conversed with him on the subject 
of the contest in which he was engaged. I also ex- 
plained to him the nature and extent of my voyage, 
in which he appeared much interested. 

Few towns or cities of the Mississippi are so rich in 
historical interest as Natchez, situated on the eastern 
bank of the river, two hundred and eighty miles north 
of New Orleans. The city is divided into two sec- 
tions, known as Natchez-on-the-hill and Natchez-un- 
der-the-hill. The latter is built on a narrow strip of 
land between the bluff and the river, and includes the 
landings and principal business houses. It possesses 
neither architectural nor scenic beauty. It was 
formerly the resort of gamblers, river thieves and 
other desperate characters. Jim Bludsoe, the hero of 
one of Hays' poems, we are told, had 

** One wife at Natchez-under-the-hilJ. ' 

And another one here in Pike." 

Broad and well-shaded roads connect it with Nat- 
chez-on-the-hill, which is beautifully located on a cliff 
nearly two hundred feet high overlooking the river. 
The latter has abundance of shade trees, and many 

handsome residences and other buildings. The houses 
26 



396 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

are principally of brick, and surrounded by ample and 
attractive gardens. 

Along the whole front of the city, on the brow 
of the cliiF, is a park from which fine views can be ob- 
tained up and down the river. Adjoining this park is 
a National Cemetery, laid out and decorated in a taste- 
ful manner. The Court House is in a public square, 
shaded with trees, and the Masonic Temple is a hand- 
some building. The Catholic Cathedral has a spire 
one hundred and twenty-eight feet high, and there are 
other churches worthy of notice. 

Natchez is the shipping-port of a large and fertile 
cotton region, and holds commercial intercourse with 
the whole Mississippi Valley. Its population in 1860 
was 13,553. But the blockade of the Mississippi and 
the general prostration of business in the South dur- 
ing the Rebellion affected the city disastrously, so that 
even at the conclusion of the war it did not at once re- 
cover, and in 1870 its population had decreased to 
about 10,000. Since that time it has been gradually 
regaining lost ground, and is now on the road to pros- 
perity. 

The early history of Natchez is full of incident in- 
terwoven with romance. Before the white man set 
foot on the shores of the American continent it was 
the home of a tribe of Indians from which it takes its 
name. The Natchez Indians were a superior race, and 
may have been descendants of the Mound Builders, 
since their religion was that of fire-worship, which was 
evidently that of the prehistoric inhabitants of Amer- 
ica. Their ceremonies were not unlike those of the 
fire- worshippers of Persia. Fire was kept perpetually 
burning upon the altar of the Temple of the Sun, and 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 39^7 

this fire they believed originally descended to them 
from heaven. A short time before the appearance of 
the white man this fire accidentally went out, and 
great were their mourning and dismay, as they be- 
lieved the accident foreboded some great misfortune to 
their tribe. Filled with the remembrance of this evil 
omen, they made but a feeble struggle against the en- 
croachments of the French, and were easily dislodged 
from the territory. In extreme cases they offered hu- 
man sacrifices to appease the wrath of their deity. 

In 1700, D'Iberville, whose exploits in America 
were not confined to Louisiana, but began in the 
provinces of New York and Newfoundland, pro- 
ceeded up the Mississippi in order to explore the 
country and form friendly alliances with the native 
tribes. He visited the Natchez country, and decided 
it was the most favorable for the establishment of a 
colony, and on the bluff where Natchez now stands, he 
located the site of the future capital and built a fort. 
The exact location of this fort is now a matter of dis- 
pute. Some contend that it was at the back of the 
present town, and others that Ellis Bluffs marks the 
spot. While D'Iberville was there, one of the tem- 
ples was struck by lightning and set on fire. The In- 
dians were frightened, believing it to be a manifestation 
of anger by their deity, and the high priest besought 
the squaws to throw their little ones into the fire, in 
order to appease him. Four infants were thus sacrificed 
before D'Iberville could prevail upon them to desist. 

The Great Sun, king of the Natchez tribe, was very 
friendly, and gave the French permission not only to 
build a fort, but to establish a trading-post. The lat- 
ter, however, was not immediately done. 



398 DOWJ^ THE GREAT RIVER, 

Sixteen years later no permanent settlement had 
been effected at Natchez. A feeling of unfriendliness 
had been engendered between the Indians and whites, 
and several of the latter had been murdered. And 
now romance unites with matter-of-fact in the history 
of the city. The daughter of Cardillac, then royal 
governor of Louisiana, fell in love with Bienville, who, 
though a young man, was in a certain sense the rival 
of her father. Cardillac was at first infuriated that 
one of her birth and rank should bestow her affections 
upon a mere adventurer, and a Canadian. He remon- 
strated with his daughter, but she grew so pale and 
thin that at last he was frightened into acquiescence 
with her wishes. Inviting Bienville to an audience, 
he offered him the olive branch of reconciliation, and 
the hand of his daughter as the guarantee of his .good 
will. Bienville received the communication respect- 
fully, but declined the honor intended him. In re- 
taliation for the slight, Cardillac at once ordered him 
to the Natchez country to build a fort and punish the 
murderers of the Canadians, who had lost their lives 
at the hands of the Indians. " What ! ^' exclaimed 
Bienville, '^ do you really intend to send me with 
thirty-four men to encounter a hostile tribe numbering 
eight hundred warriors?" But Cardillac was obdu- 
rate, and Bienville and his little force set out on their 
mad expedition. 

In April, 1716, Bienville and his small company 
encamped on an island a little more than fifty miles 
distant from the Natchez, and sent to them word that 
he was going to establish a fort and trading-post 
among them. After a little demur, and the exchange 
of several communications, the Indian chiefs, deceived 



VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 399 

by the apparent friendliness, and believing the murder 
of the Canadians still unknown, visited Bienville on 
the island. They were immediately made prisoners, 
and finally, after exacting and receiving the heads of 
the murderers, two of them were put to death. 

The Indians, thus intimidated, concluded a treaty 
of peace, and on the arrival of Bienville at Natchez, 
assisted in cutting the ditches, raising the parapets and 
bastions of the new fort, and in constructing the build- 
ings to be occupied by the French. This fort was 
called Rosalie, and the ruins of it are still visible. 
The ground which it occupies is, however, gradually 
sinking, being undermined by subterranean springs, 
and soon it will have entirely disappeared. The 
depth of the artificial earthworks, subsequently added, 
is plainly discernible, in the distinctly-marked strata 
of earth. 

Bienville returned in triumph to New Orleans, to 
resume the government of that colony in the absence 
of De V Epenay, who had been appointed to succeed 
Cardillac. The latter, on his way up the river, search- 
ing for gold and silver, stopped at Natchez, and was 
cordially received by the chiefs, who presented to him 
their calumet in token of peace. Scorning their of- 
fers of friendship, he treated them contemptuously, 
and as a result difficulties broke out afresh between 
the French and Indians, and Cardillac was summarily 
recalled by Crozat. 

In 1729, the Indians massacred all the settlers of the 
Natchez country, including the colonies on the Saint 
Catherine, on the Yazoo, the Washita and near the 
present town of Monroe. More than two hundred 
men were killed, and ninety-two women and one hun- 



400 



DOWJ^ THE GREAT JilVEB. 



dred and fifty-five children taken prisoners. A war 
was the result, in which the Natchez were dispersed, 
and practically annihilated as a tribe. A few years 
ago a small remnant of this tribe still existed in Texas, 
its members exceedingly proud of their lineage. 

The subsequent vicissitudes of the settlement were 
only such as were endured by all frontier towns. As 
the country became populated, Natchez became pros- 
perous, and up to the period of the war was one of the 
most thriving cities of the Lower Mississippi. As the 
resources of the South are developed, and its produc- 
tive capacity increased, Natchez will share its pros- 
perity, and become an index of its material advance- 
ment. 




CO 

o 



< 



o 




CHAPTER XXX. 

NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. 

Negro Cabin, 

Near Fairview, Louisiana, 
November 4, 1881. 

JyJ[3JJ^^E had fully intended to leave Natchez at 
an early hour in the morning; but I 
was drawn into a conversation concern- 
ing the late war, on learning that a 
brother of the Misses Foster was killed in 
an action with Kilpatrick's cavalry. Sup- 
posing that I would be likely to know some 
particulars of their brother's death, they plied 
me with many inquiries which ultimately led to a gen- 
eral discussion of our cavalry movements in Virginia. 
It was nearly ten o'clock when we pushed out 
from Natchez, but aided by an unusually strong 
current we covered our average distance for the 
day. 

Being ignorant of the country in our advance, we 
made a miscalculation as to the evening: destination 
and experienced some difficulty in effecting a landing 
late at night, which ended in our being compelled to 
seek quarters at a negro cabin or accept the alternative 
of remaining on the river, perhaps until daylight. We 

(403) 




404 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

were not easily reconciled to our accommodation on 
this occasion, but had become so thoroughly accus- 
tomed to roughing it that we at length adjusted our- 
selves to circumstances, and ^^ slept on our arms," as 
soldiers would express it, on the floor of the cabin, 
with a few old rags scattered over the boards, and our 
blankets for covering. It should, however, be stated 
to the credit of our colored host, that he provided the 
best at his disposal, and with a generosity that com- 
manded our admiration. 

We found very little rest in the cabin of Benjamin 
Franklin Williams, owing to the progress of a re- 
ligious revival in the vicinity. Mrs. Williams went 
to class-meeting after supper, and did not return until 
between two and three o'clock in the morning ; then, 
upon her return, her husband joined her in a review 
of their work in the cause of the Gospel, and, to- 
gether, they spent in this way the remainder of the 
night. I may add that I have learned from some ex- 
perience among colored people, that when they are 
once enlisted in religious work, their zeal is unbounded, 
and they are ceaseless in their endeavors to convert 
others. 

Private Kesidence, 

Bayou Tunica, Louisiana, 

November Fifth. 

In anticipation of very shortly making the mouth 
of the Red River, the last tributary of the Mississippi, 
we breakfasted at six o'clock, and a few minutes 
later pushed the Alice into her element, and were 
soon out of sight of our friends at Fairview. In less 
than an hour we were off the mouth of the Red 



NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. 405 

River, and soon after met the steamer Henry Franhy 
engaged in the cotton trade between Natchez and 
New Orleans. 

Red River rises in Texas, and flows east and t-hea 
south, dividing Texas from Indian Territory and Ar- 
kansas. It then passes into Louisiana, flowing south- 
east until it falls into the Mississippi. Its length is 
about twelve hundred miles. Small steamers ascend 
it as far as Shreveport, Louisiana, three hundred and 
thirty miles from its mouth. The " Raft," an im- 
mense collection of trees and drift-wood, about fifteen 
miles long, had long obstructed the navigation ; but in 
1873, a navigable channel was opened through its en- 
tire length. Red River receives its name from its pe- 
culiar color, supposed to be derived from the red clay 
through which its upper course lies. In Louisiana it 
sends off numerous bayous, which find their way back 
again to the main stream, forming frequent lakes. 

Arrived at Tunica Landing, we were very cordially 
received by Mr. John J. Winn and family. Mr. 
Winn is an enterprising merchant and cotton planter, 
and we found him an exceedingly affable and courteous 
host. 

Bayou Tunica, 

Tunica Landing, Louisiana, 

November Sixth. 

The weather being rainy, with strong southerly 
wind, Mr. Winn easily persuaded us to remain an- 
other day at Tunica. Had the weather been more fa- 
vorable we should either have continued our voyage, 
or accepted Mr. Winn's pressing invitation to join him 
in an alligator hunt — the chief sport of this section 



406 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

of Louisiana. Our host informed us that he had shot 
as many as seventeen of these creatures in one day, 
among the bayous of his plantation. 

The steamers Natchez and Robert E. Lee stopped at 
Tunica in the afternoon on their way up the river. 
Mr. Winn took me on board the latter and introduced 
me to several of the officers. Let me add that the 
Winns were untiring in their effi^rts to make our stay 
at their home in every respect agreeable, and it is but 
a slight recognition of their hospitality to say that 
they succeeded admirably. 

(S>\\t fyxxi^xt^ ani 23'tntf) SDag. 

Waterloo House, 

Waterloo, Louisiana, 

November Seventh. 

It was with a feeling of regret that we parted with 
the Winns and paddled away from Tunica at nine 
o'clock in the morning. Mr. and Mrs. Winn, their 
clerks and the colored people of the hamlet were pres- 
ent at the launch. 

The weather was still unsettled, while a high wind 
from the southward greatly retarded our progress. 
Seeing no plantation-houses or villages, between 
twelve and one o'clock we disembarked, and refreshed 
ourselves with coffee, corn-bread and bacon at a negro 
cabin about three miles above Bayou Sara, a flourish- 
ing village, which wx passed at three o'clock. Twelve 
miles below Bayou Sara we passed Port Hudson, 
noted for important military events during the Civil 
War; and, late in the afternoon, met the United 
States mail steamer. Morning Star, the officers and 
crew of which honored us with a salute. Waterloo, a 



NATCHEZ TO BATON EOUGB, 407 

village of five hundred souls, was reached a few min- 
utes after sundown, the dilapidated appearance of 
which led us to the reflection that a "great battle'^ 
had possibly been fought in its immediate vicinity. 

Eliza Plantation, 

Near Plaquemine, Louisiana^ 
November Eighth, 

Our run of November eighth led us through one of 
the richest sugar-producing sections of the State, 
Dotted here and there along the river's banks are the 
picturesque homes of the planters, made more attrac- 
tive by the tropical vegetation, the clustering vines, 
blooming roses and bright green turf, than they could 
ever be from mere architectural beauty, while their 
continuous course along the shore gives the idea of an 
extended and prosperous village. We were welcomed 
to the Eliza Plantation, by its proprietors, Messrs. V. 
U. Lefebre & Son, who are counted among the wealthi- 
est sugar planters of Plaquemine Parish, owning and 
controlling three large plantations. 

This was our first experience on a sugar plantation, 
and I made the most of my opportunity. We were 
shown the cane-field and sugar-mill, and every detail 
was explained, from the cutting of the cane to the re^ 
fining process, which leaves this useful product in con- 
dition for the market. 

The sugar-cane varies in height from six to fifteen 
feet and upwards, and in diameter from one and a half 
to two inches. Its stalk is knotty. The roots are 
slender, about a foot in length, and furnished with a 
few short fibres. There are twelve or fifteen leaves at 



408 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

the top arranged like a fan. The sugar-cane requires 
a nutritious soil and a tropical or sub-tropical climate. 
It is propagated by slips, and requires from twelve to 
sixteen months to arrive at maturity. The leaves fall 
off before flowering, and the stem then becomes of a 
straw color. After the cane harvest the roots strike 
again and produce a fresh crop, but in about six years 
they must be removed. The canes are cut in dry 
weather. They should have a smooth skin, consider- 
able weight, grayish pith and a sweet glutinous juiee. 
The lowest joint contains the richest juice. The canes 
are tied up in bundles and sent to the crushing-mill. 
The cane-mill usually consists of three massive cast- 
iron rollers, about six inches in diameter. The juice 
passes into a channel below, and thence to a reservoir. 
From twelve to fourteen tons of good ripe cane pro- 
duce about fifteen hundred gallons of juice, which are 
required for making one hogshead of sugar. 

The juice of the cane is simply a solution of sugar 
in water. It is usually of a yellow color, but is some- 
times colorless. It has an agreeable but rather insipid 
taste. The exposure of the juice to the air, even for 
half an hour, would cause fermentation to set in ; lime 
is therefore immediately added for the purpose of 
neutralizing the acid. The process of refining is of 
too technical a nature to be popularly explained in a 
work of this character. 

On the opposite, or eastern side of the river, stands 
Baton Rouge, one hundred and seventeen miles above 
New Orleans, and formerly the capital of Louisiana. 
It was one of the first French settlements on the 
Lower Mississippi, and had been previously the seat 
of an old Indian village. The city is built on a bluif 



NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE, 499 

twenty feet above the highest inundations, and is well 
and substantially erected. Plantations of sugar-cane, 
groves of tropical fruit trees and handsome villas with 
gardens, border the river at the foot of the bluif, the 
villas being, in some cases, of elegant architectural 
proportions. A National arsenal and barracks, a 
military hospital, the State Penitentiary and Deaf and 
Dumb Asylum, are located here, and the Louisiana 
State University was temporarily removed to this city 
after its edifice was burned in 1869. In the Civil 
War the city was occupied by the Federal troops after 
the capture of New Orleans. On August fifth, 1862, 
General Williams was attacked at Baton Rouge by the 
Confederates, under General Breckenridge. The 
Union general was killed, but the assailants, after a 
fierce contest, were repulsed. The city is advanta- 
geously situated for navigation and commerce, and has 
at present a population of about ten or twelve thou- 
eend. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 

E. E. Lee Hotel, 

DonaldsonvUle, Louisiana, 
November 9, 1881. 

HERE was so much of interest to be seen 
on the Lefebre plantations that it was 
nearly eleven o'clock when we again 
■^ turned our faces towards the river. 

Donaldsonville was not reached until long 
after dark, and having been incorrectly in- 
formed as to the best point for landing, we found 
much difficulty in getting ashore. This is a small 
place of less than five thousand inhabitants, seventy- 
five miles above New Orleans. It has received 
but little recognition in the general history of the 
country, but is, nevertheless, a growing city and worthy 
of more attention than it appears to have hitherto at- 
tracted. 

During the Civil War Donaldsonville fell into the 
possession of the Federals, who erected a small earth- 
work with a garrison of one hundred and eighty men 
of the Twenty-eighth Maine, under the command of 
Major D. Mullen. At 1.30 A. m. of June twenty- 
eighth, 1862, the Confederates attacked the work, but 
(410) 




BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 41 X 

in the darkness there was a good deal of confusion in 
their movements. They were defeated by the com- 
bined action of the little garrison and three gunboate 
in the river, the affair lasting until daylight; with 
a result of sixty-nine Confederate dead and one hun- 
dred and twenty prisoners, 

®ne ^unbntr anb toelftl) jmag. 

Negro Cabin, 

Saint John Parish, Louisianm, 

November Tenth. 

Started from Donaldsonville in a rain storm, which 
continued until late in the evening. I was fre- 
quently and forcibly reminded of our up-river ex- 
periences between Saint Paul and La Crosse, where 
we were thoroughly drenched daily for more than 
a week. 

Nothing of special interest was noted in this day's 
log. The rain continuing to descend in torrents ren- 
dered the journey anything but pleasant, and the view 
of the banks was partially obscured by dark, over- 
hanging clouds that portended an uninterrupted down- 
pour and a soaking to the skin. Rice and sugar-plan- 
tations were just observable through the mist, at inter- 
vals of three or four miles on both sides of the river, 
and it may be stated that these were the first cultivated 
rice-fields we had witnessed. 

Wishing to cover as much ground as possible, we 
remained in our canoe until eight o'clock in the even- 
ing and then, on pulling ashore, sought shelter from 
the rain under the first roof we came to, which proved 
to be another negro cabin. 

I cannot say too much in praise of the genuine ho»- 



412 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

pitality of the negroes we came in contact with in the 
South. Always ready and eager to do their utmost to 
please us, they were unselfish to a degree. It was but 
poor accommodation they could offer, and they were 
fully conscious of this ; but, poor as it was, the demon- 
strations of cordial welcome with which it was ten- 
dered made us feel thankful to have found such friends. 

®ne ^trniinir anir Sljtrteentl) JlDaji. 

Pbivate Eesidence, 

Carrolliont Louisiana^ 

November Eleventh. 

The storm which followed us to our quarters on the 
night of the tenth greeted us again in the morning, 
and again continued with us through the day. Rice- 
fields, sugar-plantations and an occasional orange-grove 
were seen from the canoe. The high banks, which had 
hitherto greatly obstructed our view of scenery ad- 
jacent to the river, had now entirely disappeared. In 
fact, the river seemed higher as we descended, and its 
surface was nearly, if not quite, on a level with the 
land. 

Anxious to reach New Orleans before dark, we re- 
freshed ourselves with a cold lunch at midday as we 
floated along with the current, past Saint Charles, a 
small town on the west bank of the river. 

We found it impossible to reach New Orleans at a 
seasonable hour in consequence of the strong wind 
from the south which impeded our progress from the 
time of re-embarking in the morning until we stepped 
ashore at night. The great depth of the river, too, 
was an obstacle to rapid progress, as a heavy sea is 
Always sure to result from high winds and deep water. 



BATON HaUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 413 

The idea of reaching New Orleans before dark was 
abandoned late in the afternoon, when we discovered 
that we could only hope to make Carrollton by a most 
vigorous use of our paddles. The night of Novem- 
ber eleventh was one of unusual darkness, and when 
the river front of Carrollton was reached, where we 
found a swift current and an indifferent landing, our 
canoe came very near being capsized, as a friendly 
citizen caught the bow and pulled us up the bank. 

Carrollton, on the left bank of the river, is in Jeffer- 
son Parish, and adjoins New Orleans. It contains the 
Court House and public buildings of the parish, and 
is connected with the centre of New Orleans by street- 
cars which start every three minutes. The public 
gardens of Carrollton attract many visitors from the 
Crescent City and the country immediately adjacent. 
The town supports a weekly society paper. 

Since passing Saint Louis we had looked forward to 
the great Southern seaport as the chief object of attrac- 
tion on the Lower Mississippi. Its early history, 
rapid development and present commercial importance 
combine to place it among the foremost cities of the 
continent. It was now in full view and the goal of 
our voyage not far distant. 

Before proceeding, however, to our final destination 
in the Gulf, I must pause to give the reader some ac- 
count of this great and flourishing city of New Or- 
leans. It is on the left side of the river — with the 
exception of the annexed town of Algiers, which is on 
the right bank — and is about one hundred and twelve 
miles above its mouth, nine hundred and fifty-three 
miles below the mouth of the Ohio, and eleven hun- 
dred and forty-nine below the mouth of the Missouri 



414 DOWir THE GREAT RIVER, 

It embraces nearly the whole of Orleans Parish, with 
parts of Jefferson and Plaquemine, reaching on the 
north and east to Lakes Pouchartrain and Borgne. It 
derives its name of "The Crescent City" from the 
circumstance that the older portion of it is built within 
a great bend of the river. In the progress of its 
growth up stream it has now so extended itself as to 
follow long curves in opposite directions, so that the 
river front on the left bank presents an outline some- 
what resembling the letter S. 

The city is built on an inclined plane descending 
gently from the river toward the swamp in the rear, 
so that when the Mississippi is full, the streets are 
three or four feet below the surface of the river. To 
prevent inundations an embankment, called the Levee, 
has been raised at great expense. This Levee is fifteen 
feet wide and fourteen feet high, and is constructed for 
a great distance along the river bank. The view of 
the city from the river is beautiful, and, on entering it, 
I found it difficult to realize that I had arrived at an 
American city. The buildings, the manners, customs 
and language of the people are so different ; the popu- 
lation being very nearly equally made up of Ameri- 
cans, French, Creoles and Spaniards, with a mixture 
of almost every nation of the globe. 

New Orleans bears not only the evidence of its 
American and nineteenth century civilization, but it 
also still retains traces of its French and Spanish 
dominion, and of the old world civilization which 
those nations have left behind them. * For nearly a 
century New Orleans, though located on the American 
continent, was European in its appearance and sympa- 
thies. In 1712 Crozat was granted by Louis XI Y., 



BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 4"^^ 

the exclusive privilege for fifteen years of trading in 
the then unknown, and literally boundless, territory 
of Louisiana. At that period, for every two shiploads 
of European immigrants a shipload of negroes was 
brought from Africa, and thus slavery was planted in 
the colony. Then came the great John Law scheme. 
A gigantic bubble was blown ; the Loyal Bank sprang 
into existence ; the charter of the Mississippi Company 
was registered at Paris, and Louisiana was represented 
in Europe as the long-sought El Dorado. Emigrants 
flocked to its shores, only to be disappointed and im^ 
poverished. The bubble burst, and with its bursting 
came the reaction. The pendulum swung to the other- 
extreme, and the evil report of the colony matched 
that which but a short time previously had been said 
in its favor. Louisiana was now represented as the 
rendezvous of beggars, thieves and murderers, but the 
privations and terrors of its inhabitants were greatly 
magnified. 

In the midst of this depression, Bienville selected 
the present site of New Orleans for a capital of the 
province over which he was governor. The site was 
surveyed in 1717, and the first settlement made in the 
following year. But flood, pestilence and famine came, 
so that it was not until 1723 that the settlement be- 
came permanent. In the same year the seat of govern- 
ment was removed from New Biloxi to the later settle- 
ment, which, in honor of the Regent of France, was 
called New Orleans. 

The city was in the midst of a swamp, surrounded 
by a dense, rugged forest. The small, cleared space 
which was occupied was frequently inundated ; and to 
dispose of the surplus water, which was always present. 



41 S DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

each street was bordered by a ditch, which cut up the 
town into small squares. These ditches were filled 
with stagnant water, swamp mud and refuse matter, 
and, under the burning sun, sent up offensive and 
poisonous odors. Reeds and swamp grasses grew to 
the very doors of the residences, and the toll of the 
vesper bells and the croaking of the frogs from the 
neighboring swamps mingled and harmonized in a 
mighty chorus. 

The inhabitants, some of them representing the best 
blood of France, maintained in this noisome spot and 
in their rude dwellings the courtly manners which 
they had brought with them from their distant homes. 
Stately ladies walked the miry streets in pairs^for in 
those days etiquette would permit no lady to appear in 
public without a duenna. Monks and nuns stole 
silently along and were familiar objects upon the 
streets. The little cross-surmounted edifices set apart 
for the ceremonies of their religion daily summoned 
their worshippers, and no religion save the Roman 
Catholic was tolerated. The streets were named after 
princes of the royal blood : Toulouse, Bourbon, Cond6, 
Chatres and Conti. Above the city, on tlie banks of 
the Mississippi, titled and wealthy French families 
had established themselves ^nd lived lives of ease an-d 
pleasure. 

Occasionally the English threatened the little 
French colony, but were compelled to turn back before 
reaching the city ; for the French pioneers, though a 
happy-go-lucky race, content with enjoying to-day and 
permitting to-morrow to take care of itself, were good 
soldiers, and very frequently successful in their mili- 
tary operations. They conquered and dispersed the 



BATON BOUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 4^7 

warlike Natchez, the most superior Indian tribe which 
existed upon this continent when it was discovered. 
They held the English at bay and proved too much 
for the Spaniards, until, in 1777, the king of France, 
in a fit of generosity, bestowed upon his "cousin of 
Spain " the splendid gift of Louisiana, ceding it " with- 
out any exception or reservation whatever, from the 
pure impulse of his generous heart;" thus, by a single 
stroke of the pen, depriving France of a province of 
untold and, at that period, unimagined wealth, for 
Louisiana embraced all the territory from the Gulf of 
Mexico and Mexico on the south, to the English pos- 
sessions on the north, and from the Mississippi to the 
Pacific. 

The French settlers rebelled against Spanish rule, 
but in the end had to submit to it. Then came a sue- 
cession of Spanish governors and Spanish colonists, who 
have left their traces in quaint balconied houses and 
little touches of Moorish architecture. In 1789, Don 
Andr6 Almonastre, " Perpetual Eegidor of New Or- 
leans,'^ built the Cathedral of Saint Louis, which was 
replaced in 1850 by the present structure, as ugly as it 
is modern in architecture. 

Then, in 1803, Louisiana became again French, but 
the rejoicings of the Creole inhabitants had scarcely 
begun before they were turned into wailings by the 
unexpected sale of the province by Napoleon I. to the 
United States. Thus all the domain west of the Mis- 
sissippi was purchased for $15,000,000. "Spanish 
they might become, but English never!'' w^as Napo- 
leon's dictum, and hence the sale. The inhabitants 
and settlers resented the transfer and resolutely with- 
drew within their own quarters, refusing to become 



418 Down THE GREAT RIVER. 

American citizens under the new regime. But again 
they were helpless. 

Under the United States rule New Orleans made 
such progress as it had never done in the past. Its 
commercial interests were built up and tliere was a 
large influx of population. In the following year it 
was incorporated as a city, and in 1810 its popula- 
tion had increased to more than seventeen thousand. 
Forty years later it numbered one hundred and sixteen 
thousand inhabitants, and in 1860 nearly one hundred 
and seventy thousand. 

Then came the terrible years of the Civil War, when 
all its business was prostrated and it was contended for 
by two opposing armies. In the second year of the 
war the city was strongly fortified. Sixty miles be- 
low it, on the Mississippi, Fort Philip, on the left, and 
Fort Jackson, on the right, were two strong citadels, 
with a united armament of one hundred and twenty- 
six guns. The river was seven hundred yards wide, 
and an iron cable stretched across it, and, supported 
by rafts and eleven hulks securely moored, presented 
an effectual barrier. A fleet of thirteen gunboats, in- 
cluding the iron-clad battery Louisiana and the ram 
Manassas, was covered by the guns of the forts, while 
water-batteries swept the channel above. The city was 
held under General Lovell, while Commander G. No 
Hollis directed the naval armament. 

These protections of the city were considered im- 
pregnable, and one of the newspapers of April fifth, 
1862, published the following : " Our only fear is that 
the Northern invaders may not appear. We have 
made such extensive preparations to receive them that 
it were vexatious if their invincible armada escape the 
fate we have in store for it/' 



BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 4I9 

The mortar fleet, under Commodore Porter, and the 
gunboat fleet, under Commodore Farragut, commenced 
a bombardment on April eighteenth. The fleet em- 
braced forty -six vessels, with three hundred guns and 
mortars, but no iron-clads. The bombardment lasted 
six days and was heard at New Orleans, sixty miles 
distant. On the night of the twentieth boats passed 
up the river through a break in the raft. The Con- 
federate squadron descended to meet them, but was 
destroyed within two hours. Twelve of the Federal 
boats passed the forts without injury and proceeded up 
towards the city. 

When the news reached New Orleans the greatest 
consternation prevailed. Bells were rung and the 
people crowded the streets in a panic. Lovell imme- 
diately ordered the evacuation of the city. When this 
order went forth, the Confederates in their anger set 
fire to the rafts and shipping on the river and to private 
and public buildings. The city was surrendered to 
the Union forces, and the forts, which had already 
been silenced by the fleet, were compelled to capit- 
ulate. General Benjamin F. Butler's land force, hav- 
ing disembarked at Ponchartrain, took possession of 
New Orleans. 

When the war was ended. New Orleans was found 
to have undergone a social as well as a political revo- 
lution. Slavery was no more, and slaveholders were 
bankrupt. Wealthy families had lost their all. Ladies 
who had enjoyed large incomes before the war now 
found themselves forced to open boarding-houses or 
engage in menial occupations in order to support them- 
selves and their families. Young women daintily 
brought up, and who had every want supplied bj? 



420 DOWN THE GREAT EIVEB 

others, were compelled to seek some kind of employ- 
ment for their daily bread. Those who had been so 
fortunate as to preserve their property, converted it 
into money and took it away with them to Europe. 
Only those remained who had no money with which 
to go. 

Such was the dark outlook, but prospects presently 
began to brighten. Business interests looked up. 
Fresh blood and fresh capital found their way into 
avenues of trade and New Orleans is more prosperous 
to-day than it was at any time in the past, and 
ranks in its exports and foreign commerce next to 
New York. 

New Orleans to-day presents a strange compound 
of the past and present. Canal street separates the 
French quarter from the modern American city. This 
street, which is the main business thoroughfare and 
promenade, once had a canal running through it con- 
necting the Mississippi with Lake Ponchartrain. But 
since other canals have been opened this has been filled 
up and replaced by a grass-plot twenty feet in width, 
bordered on each side by double rows of trees. The 
street is nearly two hundred feet wide and is lined by 
fine stores and handsome private residences. 

On the lower side of Canal street is found the 
French quarter, which represents the original city. 
This was built around a curve of the river. It is now 
extended along the river bank both above and below 
this curve. In the French quarter are many houses 
dating back to the eighteenth century, some of them, 
with their overhanging balconies or airy niches and 
fantastic Moorish lattices, speaking of the time of the 
Spanish dominion. Many of these old-time houses 



BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 421 

have DO beauty save that of age. They are of solid 
masoDry, with great arched porticos and small win- 
dows ; their pavements worn into unevenness by the 
footsteps of many generations. The old Ursuline con- 
vent in Cond6 street is one of the most interesting of 
these structures. It was erected in 1787, during the 
reign of Carlos III., by Don Andr^ Almonaster. It 
is huge and ugly in form, with queer gable windows, 
but quaint and venerable in appearance. When the 
site which it occupies became valuable, the nuns sold 
the building and removed to other quarters, where 
they have built themselves a large edifice, modern and 
stylish in appearance, and doubtless far more convei:|^ 
lent and comfortable, but not half so interesting as their 
early home. The old convent building is now occu- 
pied by the Catholic bishop and is known as the 
Bishop's palace. It is elbowed on every side by 
modern structures, which present a strange contrast to 
its Old World appearance. 

Jackson Square is situated in the French quarter, 
facing the river, and bounded on the three remaining 
sides by Saint Peter, Saint Ann and Chartres streets. 
Though it bears a modern name, its origin dates back 
to the earliest days of the infant colony. It was 
formerly known as the Place d' Armes, and was the 
military parade-ground and place of public gatherings 
during the French and Spanish periods of the history 
of JN"ew Orleans. It is now ornamented by trees and 
shrubbery, and contains MilPs equestrian statue of 
General Jackson. The Cathedral, dedicated to Saint 
Louis, and the Courts of Law, face the river from the 
opposite side of the square. 

The old Creole families of New Orleans keep them- 



422 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

selves to a great degree distinct from the American 
population. In their quarter the French language, 
spoken in a variety of dialects, from the pure, liquid 
accents of the higher classes down to the childish patois 
of the negroes, is almost universally used. At the 
French market, on the Levee, near Jackson Square, 
may be seen the greatest variety of peoples, and 
be heard the greatest jargon of tongues. On Sunday 
morning the scene is especially interesting, as the 
crowd on that day is greatest. 

The Levee is also one of the characteristic features 
of New Orleans. Here is conducted the immense coni- 
mercial business of the city, and in front of it is 
moored the shipping of all nations. New Orleans is 
the greatest cotton mart of the world, and also exports 
large quantities of sugar, rice, tobacco and other prod- 
ucts. The Levee is the scene of constant activity and 
bustle. Sailors, river-men, merchants, shipping-clerks, 
foreigners of all nationalities, travelers, priests, monks 
and nuns are constantly passing and repassing, forming 
a panorama which for variety and life has probably 
not its equal on this continent. 

The Shell Road out to Lake Ponchartrain is the 
favorite drive. After leaving the city, it passes through 
cypress swamps which, though gloomy, are exceedingly 
picturesque, the trees being fringed with long, gray 
Spanish moss. Lake Ponchartrain is itself a beautiful 
body of water, forty miles long by twenty-five wide, 
and abounds in fish and its borders in game. On its 
banks are the country residences of the wealthy in- 
habitants of the city. 

The battle-field where, on January eighth, 1815, 
General Jackson obtained a victory over the British, 



BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 425 

lies a few miles below the city. It fronts on the Mis- 
sissippi and extends inland about a mile to the cypress 
swamps. An unfinished marble monument, erected in 
commemoration of the victory, has attained a height of 
seventy feet. In the south-west corner of the field is 
a National cemetery, and between it and the city is 
the new edifice of the Ursuliue convent, a large build- 
ing overlooking the river. 

The cemeteries of New Orleans are most peculiar. 
The ground is so low that water is reached at a depth of 
two or three feet, so that the tombs are all placed above 
ground. Some of them are very handsome structures 
of marble, granite or iron. Others are mere cells 
placed in tiers, one above another. These cells look 
like ovens, and when one receives a coffin it is hermeti- 
cally sealed, and usually a marble tablet is placed over 
the brick-work. There are no less than thirty-three 
cemeteries in and near the city. Of these. Cypress 
Grove and Greenwood are best worth visiting. 

The population of New Orleans is composed of 
French Creoles and the more modern French, Span- 
iards, Portuguese, Italians, West Indians, Mexicans, 
colored people of every shade, from the full-blooded 
negro up to the octoroon, scarcely distinguishable in 
complexion and features from the southern European ; 
Southerners of English descent; Northerners and 
Westerners; Chinese and Indians. The city still 
maintains, in many respects, its early characteristics. 
Its inhabitants are very gay, and theatres and operas 
are liberally patronized. Mardigras is the great an- 
nual holiday. Though a comparatively recent insti- 
tution, having been first observed during the present 

century, it is now celebrated with a universality and 

28 



426 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

abandon which is as astonishing as it is delightful to 
the visitor. On that day King Rex makes his appear- 
ance in the city, attired in rega? splendor, and is fol- 
lowed by a retinue of knights and servitors. After 
these come a motley procession grotesquely masked. 
The streets and balconies are crowded with spectators^ 
and the day is given up to mirth and enjoymenty con- 
cluding with balls and pantomimes. 

In 1880, the population of New Orleans amounted 
to two hundred and sixteen thousand. It is not archi- 
tecturally a beautiful city, and, owing to its low site, 
can never become an imposing one. But from its 
location near the mouth of the Mississippi, it must 
command the trade of the Gulf States and be the gate- 
way through which the commerce of the cities of the 
Mississippi Valley passes to other quarters of the globe. 
The constantly increasing prosperity of the South, due 
largely to free labor and to an influx of fresh blood, 
fresh capital and fresh enterprise, is telling upon its 
trade and commerce ; and unless something in the form 
of a national calamity, such as war or pestilence, comeb 
to check its prosperity, the progress of New Orleaufc* 
must be onward to still larger commerce, broad^^ 
?K)cial planes, and higher intellectual advancement. 



CHAPTER XXXIL 

HFW ORLEANS TO THE GULF OF MEXICO — END 

OF VOYAGE. 

®ne ^unbrei anir iburtmitl) JPag. 

English Turk, 
Plaquemine Parish, Louisiana, 
November 12, 1881. 

'HE rays of the sun as he rose on th^ 
morning of this day fell upon us through 
a slight mist — the wind favorable and the 
■^ water smooth — when we pushed off from 
the great seaport and turned our prow in 
the direction of the Gulf. Met two large 
ocean steamers inward bound — the first of these 
giants we had seen in motion. One of them 
glided so smoothly through the water that she ap- 
peared to us, at first, to be stationary. Soon, however, 
we discovered, by her wake, that she was forging 
ahead with her screw-propeller at a tolerably rapid 
pace, but so quietly as to lead to the impression that 
she was at anchor. We speedily paddled out of her 
way on finding our mistake, and the majestic vessel 
passed onward to her destination. 

English Turn was duly reached, a point rendered 
memorable by the fact that in the war of 1812 the 
English fleet, bound for New Orleans, turned back od 

(427) 




42S DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

hearing of the defeat of their land force by General 
Jackson. The people who inhabit this spot appeared 
to be mostly of French origin or affinity. They spoke 
little else but French, and the patois of the negroes 
was especially amusing to us who had been accustomed 
to hear only English spoken by our colored fellow- 
citizens of the North. 

The scenery on both banks of the river was pic- 
turesque and diversified — orange groves, many acres 
in extent ; rice fields and sugar plantations succeeding 
one another as in a panorama, and rendering our trip 
very pleasant. The weather was all we could wish, 
and the reflection that we were rapidly nearing the 
end of our voyage imparted an extra impulse to our 
arms at each dip of the paddle as we drove the Alice 
through the smooth and comparatively limpid water. 

®iu Qunbnb aub jFifteentt) JPajJ. 

Home Place, 

Plaguemine Parish, Louisiana^ 
November Thirteenth. 

We took leave of our French-speaking friends at 
English Turn this morning at seven o'clock, wind and 
weather still favoring us; and, stepping into our canoe, 
pulled rapidly away from the crowd of whites and 
negroes who lined the landing-place to witness our 
departure. Several ocean steamers passed us during 
the forenoon on their passage to and from New Orleans. 
The Teutonia, hailing from some German port, the 
ShelburnCj from one of the Australian colonies, and a 
local steamer, complimented us with a salute from 
their whistles when in short range. 

Passed the night at an orange grove named Home 



NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 429 

Place, which consists, besides the grove, of a landing- 
stage and a general store. At Home Place we had no 
choice but to occupy a sleeping-room with four other 
men and an equal number of dogs, the men being 
laborers in the orange grove. From this point large 
quantities of oranges are shipped in sloops to New Or- 
leans, which eventually find their way to the fruit- 
stands and stores of Northern cities. 

The Jump, 

Plaquemine Parish, Louisiana, 
November Fourteenth. 

Again afloat, after an early breakfast at Home Place 
and a hurried stroll through the orange grove, we re- 
sumed our journey. Our course this day led us past 
some of the finest orange groves and rice fields we had 
yet seen. It may be noted that there is a somewhat 
striking resemblance between the extremes of the Mis- 
sissippi. The wild rice savannas of Northern Minne- 
sota may be compared with the cultivated rice-fields 
of Louisiana. The Indian at the head waters of the 
Mississippi relies largely upon the wild product for his 
winter sustenance, while his white brother of the far 
South finds a ready market for the cultivated article. 
The sugar maple of the Upper Mississippi is replaced 
by the sugar-cane of the Lower, while the hemp and 
flax of Iowa and Wisconsin are paralleled by the cot- 
ton of Mississippi and Arkansas. The Jump is a 
small, scattered and primitive hamlet, with a popula- 
tion of possibly twenty-five or thirty souls, whose oc- 
cupation appeared to be principally confined to fish- 
ing. Their language is a mixture of French and 



430 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

German, scarcely intelligible to our Northern ears. 
We failed to discover the origin or meaning of the 
singular name of this river-side cluster of cabins. 

®ne QuniJnb anir 0n)mteentl) SDajj^ 

Port Eads, 

Plaquemine Parish, Louisiana, 
W NovemberFifteenth. 

A bright sun and clear sky greeted us as we opened 
the door of the little cabin at The Jump early on 
the morning of the last day of our voyage. A break- 
fast of bread and coffee was hastily taken and we were 
ready for the final strokes which would bring us to the 
Gulf of Mexico — the goal toward which we had 
floated and paddled for one hundred and seventeen 
days. 

Pilot Station, at the head of the Passes, was reached 
at ten o'clock, and here we met with a hearty welcome 
from the sturdy men who devote their lives to the 
hazardous work of piloting vessels to and from the 
Gulf; a welcome which only those who have enjoyed 
their hospitality can adequately appreciate. Accus- 
tomed to exj)osure and danger, they are generous in 
the extreme to all who by fortune or accident fall into 
their hands. No sooner had we approached their 
Tanding-place than the Alice, with her crew, was pulled 
out of the water and a cordial invitation took us to 
their quarters, where we were promptly supplied witli 
coffee and ship biscuit, and plied with questions as to 
our up-river experiences. 

After lunch, the Alice was put into the Mississippi 
for the last time and our hospitable entertainers gave 
three lusty cheers as we pushed off. We then paddled 



N-EW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 43X 

briskly across the Expansion to the head of the South 
Pass, the most direct and best route to the Gulf. Port 
Eads was made at three o'clock. Tliis village occu- 
pies a prominent and bleak position at the mouth of 
the South Pass at its entrance into the Gulf; is in 
Plaquemine Parish, and possesses an immense light- 
house. It is also a customs and pilot station. 

This volume would be incomplete without some 
reference to the celebrated engineer of the Jetties, who 
has made it possible for the largest ocean vessels to 
enter in, safety the Great River. We therefore pause 
to give the reader a brief sketch of his remarkably 
eventful life. 

Captain James Buchanan Eads, a native of Law- 
renceburg, Indiana, was born May twenty-third, 1820. 
He was a machinist almost from his birth. When 
nine years of age he removed with his parents to Louis- 
ville, Kentucky, and his first lesson in steam engi- 
neering was learned on board the steamboat that con- 
veyed him to that city; the engineer, seeing the curios- 
ity of the boy excited, explained to him the principal 
parts of the machinery. At the age of ten years he con- 
structed models of saw-mills, fire-engines, steamboats, 
steam-engines, electrical and other machines. With no 
other tool than his pocket-knife, it is said, he could take 
to pieces and put together again a patent lever watch. 
At thirteen his parents went to Saint Louis, and he 
accompanied them. On the way there the steamer 
was burned in the night, and he landed nearly 
naked on the very spot now occupied by a part of the 
great bridge which he afterwards designed and built. 
For a few months he supported himself, his mother 
and sister by selling fruit on the street. He theq 



432 DO WW THE GREAT RIVER. 

obtained a situation in a mercantile house in which he 
remained for five years. Here he found an excellent 
library to which he was allowed access by his generous 
employer. He made good use of his opportunity to 
study subjects bearing upon mechanics, civil engineering 
and physical science. In 1839 we find him employed 
as clerk on a Mississippi steamer. Here again he 
made the best use of his opportunity to acquire a com- 
plete knowledge of the great river which he afterward 
turned to such good account. In 1842 he built a 
diving-bell boat for recovering the cargoes of sunken 
steamers. He soon improved upon this by constructing 
one of larger tonnage, with machinery for lifting the 
hull and cargo of a vessel. A company was formed for 
operating this boat on the river between the Balize and 
Galena. It was while engaged in this business that he 
obtained a thorough knowledge of the river-bed. 

In 1845 he established a glass manufactory at Saint 
Louis. Two years later this enterprise failed and left 
him burdened with debt. He then returned to his 
former business of raising steamers, removing obstacles 
from the river, and improving the harbor of Saint 
Louis. A capital of fifteen hundred dollars was pro- 
vided by his creditors, and ten years later he had 
increased this sum to nearly half a million, having 
long since paid off his creditors in full. 

In 1856 Captain Eads proposed to Congress to keep 
the channels of the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio and 
Arkansas rivers clear of all obstructions for a term of 
years. A bill was passed by the House of Represent- 
atives authorizing the scheme, but in the Senate it 
failed. 

On the seventeenth of April, 1861, three days after 



NEW OH LEA MS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 483 

the attack on Fort Sumter by the Confederates, Attor- 
ney-General Bates wrote to him from Washington : 
" Be not surprised if you are called here suddenly by 
telegram. It may be necessary to have the aid of the 
most thorough knowledge of our Western rivers, and 
in that eveut, I have advised that you should be con- 
sulted." The summons came shortly after the letter, 
and Captain Eads went immediately to Washington. 
He submitted a plan to the President and Cabinet for 
placing gunboats on the rivers and locating batteries at 
several points on shore. With Captain — afterward 
Rear- Admiral — John Rodgers, he was appointed to 
carry out the recommendations he had made, and to 
improvise three war-vessels for service at Cairo. He 
afterward designed seven iron -clad gunboats for the 
Government, which he engaged to build in sixty-five 
days. They were all finished according to contract 
and ready for their armament. 

In 1862 Captain Eads was authorized to build six 
more armored iron gunboats, larger than the preceding 
ones. The kind of work these ironclads performed is 
recorded in the history of Grant and Halleck's cam- 
paigns, and of Farragut's capture of Mobile. 

From 1867 to 1874 Captain Eads was engaged in 
the construction of the steel -arch bridge at Saint Louis. 
The central arch of this great work has a clear span of 
five hundred and twenty feet and is universally pro- 
nounced to be the finest specimen of metal arch con- 
struction in the world. The side arches are five hun- 
dred and two feet in span ; the piers are sunk clear 
through to the bed rock. 

In his proposal, in 1874, to deepen the mouth of the 
Mississippi by means of Jetties, he was opposed by 



434 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

nearly all the United States Engineers and by a com- 
mission composed of seven of them. This commission 
proposed to avoid the bars by building a canal from 
Fort Philip to Breton Bay. Captain Eads' plan was 
to make the river itself deepen the channel through the 
bars, and he had faith enough in his plan to offer to do 
the work at his own expense and wait for payment 
until he had proved its success. A bill was introduced 
in Congress to allow him to make his experiments on 
the South Pass. The cost was to be five and a quarter 
million dollars; only half a million was to be paid 
after a channel twenty feet deep by two hundred feet 
wide had been secured ; another half million after a 
channel twenty-two feet deep, and other sums upon the 
obtaining of channels twenty-six and twenty-eight 
feet deep. The final million was to be withheld until 
a channel of thirty feet depth had been kept through- 
out twenty years. Congress, however, afterward voted 
to pay him one and three-quarter million dollars in 
advance of the terms of his contract when he had se- 
cured twenty-two feet depth in the channel. 

The result of the application of the Jetty system to 
the South Pass has been a triumphant justification of 
its author's views. Four years after he commenced the 
work the United States inspecting officer reported that 
thirty feet depth had been secured throughout the 
channel, and that the least width was two hundred 
feet. The balance due Captain Eads by the Govern- 
ment was then paid him, and the million held as secu- 
rity was considered as earned and placed at interest for 
his benefit. The channel has maintained this depth 
ever since. 

Before commencing the Jetties, he had turned his 



NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 435 

attention to the improvement of eleven hundred miles 
of the Mississippi by the Jetty system. On March fif- 
teenth, 1874, he addressed a letter to the Hon. William 
Windom, chairman of the Senate Committee on Trans- 
portation Routes to the Seaboard, and in this and sub- 
sequent papers clearly outlined one of the most mag- 
nificent plans which hydraulic engineering has ever 
undertaken, by which thirty thousand square miles of 
rich land could be saved from devastating inundations. 

In 1880, a commission reported to Congress in favor 
of the '^ Jetty system'^ of Captain Eads, as opposed to 
the " Outlet system " and the " Levee system " of other 
eminent engineers; and several million dollars were 
voted to carry out his plans. Two reaches of the 
river, Plum Point, twenty miles long, and Lake 
Providence, thirty-five miles long, were selected for 
improvements, and the effect produced was simply mar- 
velous. 

During the time of the construction of the works 
for carrying his plans into execution. Captain Eads 
was in bad health, and for some time absent from the 
United States. No further appropriations were made 
to continue this great work ; but enough has been done 
to show the entire practicability of the plan. 

The grandest scheme contemplated by this indefati- 
gable engineer is the Ship Railway across the Isthmus 
of Tehuantepec, for the transportation of large ships 
fully laden from ocean to ocean. This railway, he 
claims, can be built at one-half the cost of the Panama 
Canal and in one quarter of the time needed to build the 
canal ; that four or five times the speed practicable on a 
canal can be secured ; that more vessels can be carried 
in a day over the railway than through the canal ; that 



436 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

it will cost less to operate it than to operate a canal ; 
and that its location is the very best of all those which 
are proposed on the American Isthmus. Its proposed 
track is twelve hundred miles from the De Lesseps 
Canal, the immense territory of Central America lying 
between the two. 

Captain Eads has, at the request of the Government 
and of individuals particularly interested, examined 
and reported upon the bar at the mouth of Saint 
John's River, Florida; the improvement of the Sacra- 
mento River; the improvement of the harbor of To- 
ronto, and of the port of Vera Cruz ; the improvement 
of the harbor of Tampico, and of Galveston, and the 
estuary of the Mersey, England. He was president 
of the Saint Louis Academy of Sciences for two terms. 
In 1881 he delivered an address before the British 
Association at York upon the improvements of the 
Mississippi, and also upon the Tehuantepec Ship 
Canal; and in June, 1881, he was awarded the medal 
of the British Society of Arts, in token of its apprecia- 
tion of the services he had rendered to the science of 
engineering — he being the first American upon whom 
this medal had been conferred.* 

From Port Eads the sea-wall of the Jetties was 
plainly visible, and as we floated down stream our 
minds were busy with reminiscences of Robert de La 
Salle, who, nearly two hundred years ago, was the 
first European to enter the Gulf of Mexico and plant 
the banner of France on its shores. 

* Since the preparation of these pages the country has deplored 
the loss by death of the illustrious engineer of the Mississippi Jet- 
ties, which occurred at Nassau, New Providence, on the eighth of 
March, 1887, at the age of sixty-seven years. 



NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 437 

During the spring of 1681 he pushed his canoes 
through Lake Michigan to its southern extremity and 
found his way through the Chicago and Illinois E-ivers 
to the Mississippi. Continuing his course to the south- 
ward, he reached the Delta on the sixth of April, 
1682, and drifting down the turbid current between its 
low and lonely shores, ^' the brackish water changed to 
brine, and the breeze grew fresh with the salt breath 
of the sea. The broad bosom of the Gulf then opened 
on his sight, tossing its restless billows limitless, voice- - 
less, solitary, as when born of chaos, without a sail, 
without a sign of life. After coasting the marshy bor- 
ders of the Gulf, La Salle assembled his companions 
on a spot of dry ground a short distance from the 
mouth of the river; where he prepared a column on 
which was inscribed the arms of France. 

^* The Frenchmen were mustered under arms. 
Then, amid volleys of musketry and shouts of Vive le 
Roi! La Salle planted the column in its place, and, 
standing near it, proclaimed in a loud voice that, in 
the name of his king, he took possession of all that 
portion of North America which was drained by the 
Mississippi and its tributaries. On that day the 
monarchy of France received a stupendous accession. 
The fertile plains of Texas; the vast basin of the 
Mississippi, from its frozen northern springs to the 
sultry borders of Louisiana ; from the woody ridges 
of the Alleghenies to the bare peaks of the Rocky 
Mountains, a region of savannas and forests, sun- 
cracked deserts and grassy prairies, watered . by a 
thousand rivers and ranged by a thousand warlike 
tribes.'^ 

Great, indeed, were the possibilities of the future in 



438 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, 

the development of his Empire in the West. In 
imagination he doubtless pictured a New France in 
America, rivaling in grandeur and glory anything 
which the most enthusiastic Frenchman could have 
predicted for Old France in the days of her greatest 
prosperity and splendor. 

While thus occupied with thoughts of the illustrious 
La Salle and his heroic followers, it was observed that 
we were nearing our goal, and at twenty minutes after 
three o'clock, on the afternoon of November fif- 
teenth, 1881, the prow of the Alice met the salt waves 
of the Gulf as they came rushing defiantly against the 
swift current of the mighty stream, and we were sud- 
denly brought to a realization of the fact that our long 
voyage Down the Great River, from Souro<a to Sea, 
was ended. 



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CHAPTER XXXIIl. 

THE FATHER OF WATERS. 

AVING observed many times in the 
course of our voyage that the Missis- 
sippi is perhaps the first river of the 
world, I now pause at its mouth, and, 
without hesitation, affirm that it is incontes- 
tably entitled to the proud designation 
given it by the Chippewas, of May-see-see-be — 

THE FATHER OF RUNNING WATERS. In Order 

to support ray position it will be necessary to ask the 
indulgence of the reader, and invite him to accompany 
me in my return to its source. Should he feel unduly 
taxed, however, and hesitate to accept my invitation, 
let me explain that our journey back to its head- 
waters will be less arduous and accomplished in much 
less time than that we have just concluded at the 
Balize. 

It has already been noted that the Lower Missis- 
sippi, through its numberless bayous, communicates with 
every quarter of Louisiana and with the sea. Through 
the Red River it reaches Arizona and New Mexico. 

By means of the Yazoo the Mississippi invites the 

commerce of Tennessee, and, as the former stream is 

navigable to its sources in Georgia, it may readily 

communicate by canal with rivers that discharge their 

29 (439) 



440 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 

waters into the Atlantic Ocean. The sources of the 
Tombigbee are also near those of the Yazoo, and, con- 
sequently, communication is easily opened with the 
rivers of Alabama, which have their outlets in the 
Bay of Mobile. 

As the debouchure of the Arkansas River, the Mis- 
sissippi becomes the great water-way for the transpor- 
tation of the exports of Colorado, Kansas and the 
State of Arkansas, and as the sources of the former 
are but a few hundred miles from those of the Colo- 
rado, it may be assumed that the Mississippi could 
easily communicate with the Gulf of California. 

The White and Saint Francis rivers pen€trate far 
into the interior of Arkansas and Missouri — a region 
of great fertility, and rich in its mines of lead, copper 
and iron. 

The Ohio, the largest eastern tributary of the Mis- 
sissippi, rises in New York and Western Pennsyl- 
vania, and will prove in the future, as it has in the 
past, a powerful lever in the development of the rich 
and flourishing States whose boundaries are its shores. 
Indeed, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, 
Virginia and Western Pennsylvania are largely in- 
debted to this great tributary of the Mississippi for 
their happy commercial relations with the Eastern 
and Southern States. 

To continue with the Ohio, we may assume that, by 
means of the Monongahela, the Mississippi could, 
with the aid of the canal, communicate with the Po- 
tomac, which empties into Chesapeake Bay and thence 
into the Atlantic Ocean. 

The Allegheny River connects its waters by canal 
with Lake Erie, and thence through the Welland 



THE FATHER OF WATERS. 441 

Canal with Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence 
River, thus opening communication with New York, 
Canada and the great lakes, Huron, Michigan and 
Superior. 

Through the Kaskaskia, the Mississippi extends its 
commerce into the rich and populous State of Illinois. 

The Missouri, the largest tributary river of the 
world, might, through its remotest feeders, open com- 
munication between the Mississip})i and the rivers 
Lewis and Clark, which flow into the Columbia, and 
would ultimately connect it with the Pacific Ocean. 
What a grand problem is here presented for the solu- 
tion of the future ! The products of the great State 
of Missouri; the fertile prairies of Kansas and Iowa; 
the vast plains of Nebraska; the unlimited wheat 
fields of Dakota, and the gold and silver mines of 
Wyoming, Montana and Idaho, must, in a large 
measure, reach the leading commercial cities of Amer- 
ica through the Mississippi— the grandest water-way 
of the world. 

Through the Illinois Kiver, the Mississippi com- 
municates, by means of the Michigan Canal, with the 
Chicago River, w^hich empties into Lake Michigan ; 
while the proposed IIenne})in Canal would open direct 
communication with this great inland sea, and thus 
invite the commerce of its sister lakes. 

The Des Moines, Rock and Turkey rivers extend 
far into the interior, and are navigable many miles 
from their confluence with the Mississippi. 

By means of the Wisconsin and Chippewa rivers, 
the Mississippi, aided by portages, communicates 
with the Fox and Menomonee rivers, through which 
it also reaches lakes Michigan and Superior, 



442 DOWJ^ THE GREAT RIVER. 

A few miles above Lake Pepin the Saint Croix 
River enters the Mississippi and pays tribute from the 
vast lumber regions of Wisconsin. 

The Minnesota River^ formerly known as the Saint 
Peter, is the leading tributary of the Mississippi in 
Minnesota. This stream, like the Saint Croix, brings 
down yearly from the northern counties countless 
millions of logs from her seemingly inexhaustible 
pine forests. 

It has been shown in a previous chapter that the 
source of the Red River of the North is but seven 
miles from the source of the Mississip})i. The Red 
River discharges its waters into Hudson's Bay, which 
communicates with the Arctic Ocean. The Saint 
Louis, which falls into Lake Superior, also takes its 
rise in this section of Minnesota. The reader will re- 
call that the source of the Mississippi can be reached 
by a canoe, and that, by a short portage, it may be re- 
launched on the Red River, and thus it is seen that 
the Gulf of Mexico greets the Arctic Ocean across 
the continent of North America — a range of between 
four and five thousand miles, 

It is something to excite wonder that a river of 
such remarkable length should present no other ob- 
stacles to its navigation than Pokegama Falls, Saint 
Anthony Falls, Little Falls and the Keokuk Rapids; 
the last of which, it may be observed, is no longer an 
obstruction, since the Government Canal now conveys 
through its wateis tbe largest craft that finds its way 
to the Upper Mississippi. 

No one will question that this King of Rivers 
drains one of the most extensive, beautiful and fertile 
valleys of the globe; and its /housand affluents mingle 



THE FATHER OF WATERS. 443 

their accumulated floods with the mighty stream so 
quietly as to scarcely create a ripple. 

Through its numberless lagoons above the Falls of 
Saint Anthony, JSature has provided for the surplus 
water in time of freshets; but for which^ the coun- 
try adjacent to the entire lower river would be 
completely devastated in the fall and spring. The 
hand of the Creator is also seen in the bayous of 
Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana; and finally at 
the Delta, where it discharges quietly into the sea, as 
from a common centre the accumulated waters of more 
than half a continent. 

What, then, is the conclusion ? Can another such 
river be found between the poles, which thus commu- 
nicates with every sea; which combines so much of 
the wonderful with so much of the useful ; wnich 
bears upon its bosom the freightage of both the old 
world and the new, and to which the future presents 
such a promising outlook ? 

The Amazon and the Nile surpass the Mississippi 
in length, and possibly in the volume of their waters. 
Still, in many, yea, all other particulars of far greater 
consequence, they cannot be compared with it. But 
apart frona, and altogether beyond a consideration of, 
the length and width and depth of these great rivers 
of the world, we may consistently claim for the 
Mississippi a very decided superiority over its longer 
rivals, inasmuch as, throughout its entire length, its 
banks are peopled with freemen, and industry meets 
with no restriction. 



PUBLISHERS' APPENDIX 



TO 



DOWN THE GREIT RIYEP. 

(1) 



APPENDIX. 



THE publishers of Captain Willard Grlazier's Works, having 
recently had their attention drawn to sundry articles in the 
public prints calling in question his claim to have located the 
source of the Mississippi, conclude to invite the consideration 
of the reader of this volume to a few of the many press notices, 
letters of endorsement and other papers placed at their disposal 
by friends of the explorer, bearing directly upon the subject 
of the primal reservoir or true source of the G-reat River. In 
view of the apparent incredulity of some critics, it is thought 
expedient to lay this matter before the public in connection 
with Captain Grlazier's latest work, which gives a detailed 
account of his discovery, in order that a sound and enlightened 
conclusion may be arrived at upon the merits of the claim 
presented. 

LETTERS FROM BARREOT CHANNING PAINE. 

We commence with the press correspondence of Mr. Barrett 
Channing Paine, who, at the period of the Griazier expedition, 
was a reporter on the staff of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press, 
and subsequently Managing Editor of the Saint Paul Glohe. 
This gentleman accompanied Captain Griazier to the source of 
the Mississippi, and thence down the river in a canoe to the 
Grulf of Mexico. During the entire voyage Mr. Paine was in 
constant correspondence with the Pioneer Press and leading 
papers of various cities on the banks of the Mississippi, to 
which he furnished detailed accounts of the discovery and 
incidents of the journey. We present only a few of these 
letters selected from a large number for the perusal of the 
reader. The writer was certainly in a position to know the 
truth of the mattei^s upon which he so inteUigently reports. 

(iii) 



IV 



APPENDIX. 



Letter to the Brainerd {Minnesota) Tribune from Channivg Pained 

"Schoolcraft Island, 
"Lake Itasca, Minnesota, 
" July 22, 1881. 
'•' To the Editor of the Tribune : 

"Captaiu Glazier's party arrived at this much-talked -of lake last 
evening, reaching the south-eastern arm by a three mile portage, and 
then paddling down to the Island, where we encamped. We left 
Leech Lake on the sixteenth, after cordial farewells with the gentle- 
men then at the Agency, especially Mr. Nichols and Rev. Edwin Bene- 
dict, to whose kindness we were greatly indebted. Launching our 
little fleet of canoes, three in number, on the billowy surface of the 
lake, we started for our first objective. Lake Itasca. After leaving 
Leech Lake our way lay up a river called by the Indians Gabakan- 
azeba. The river broadens out a short distance from the lake, but 
narrows again and becomes tortuous and full of snags. Passing 
safely through all these, we reached, late in the afternoon, a fine lake 
nearly ten miles long, upon the shore of which we encamped. Next 
morning we paddled to the upper end of the lake, and were there in- 
troduced to our first real portage. Two miles and a half over a very 
rough country — the hardest work we ever undertook — brought us to 
another but smaller lake, and then, for five days, lakes and portages 
followed each other in rapid succession, until at length the waters of 
Itasca burst upon our view. The talk of our guides, coupled with 
what we had heard at Leech Lake, had led Captain Glazier to the 
conclusion that, whatever the source of the Mississippi might be, 
there was reasonable ground for the belief that Lake Itasca was not. 
Chief among the theories advanced by the Indian guides, one of 
whom, Chenowagesic, had hunted and trapped for years at the head- 
waters of this river, was that there existed a lake of good dimensions 
and wooded shores above Itasca, which poured its waters into the so- 
called source, and which was itself really the source of the Great 
River. They also stated (correctly, as we afterwards learned) that 
the stream which flowed from the lake spoken of by Paul BeauJieu 
as perhaps the source, contributed much less water to the main 
stream at its confluence with it than did the stream from Itasca. 
Resolved to explore the lake above. Itasca, the captain started with 
two canoes, next morning, from Schoolcraft Island, and pushed up to 
the head of the lake. Chenowagesic piloted us through the rushes 
with which this end of Ilfisca is filled, and presently we found our- 
selves in a small but rapid stream, up which we went, and after fol- 
lowing its windings, paddled again through some rushes, and then 
shot out upon the smooth surface of a beautiful lake. This lake is 
about two miles long by a mile and a half broad, and its shape is 
that of a heart. The shores are beautifully wooded, and its waters 
are deep and clear. On its one promontory our party landed. After 
exploring its shores, and first slaking our thirst at a spring of ice- 
cold water which bubbled up near by, we were marshalled in line, 
and Captain Glazier made a few remarks pertinent to the discovery 
of the true source of the Father of Waters. After this six volleys 
were fired in honor of the occasion, and then the question of a name 
for the new lake arose. This being left for the party to decide, I ad- 
dressed ray companions, and after alluding to the time, money and 
energy expended by the leader of the expedition, proposed that it be 
named Lake Glaziek in his honor. This proposition was received 
with applause and carried by acclamation, and it was further decideu 



APPENDIX. V 

that the name and date should be blazed on a pine tiee which stood 
conspicuously on the point. After this we re-embarked in our canoes 
•nd returned to the Island." 

In the following letter Channing Paine gives a further 
account of the discovery of the head of the Grreat River : 

" Douglas House, 

^^ Aitkin, Minnesota, 
" August 11, 1881. 
" To the Editor — Saint Louis Globe-Democrat : 

" Lake Itasca, for many years, has been regarded, both by geo- 
graphical societies and map-makers, as well as by the publie gener- 
ally, as the source of the grandest of rivers — the mighty Missiswippi. 
But geographical knowledge, like all other knowledge, is of little con- 
sequence if it is not progressive, and in its history we have seen the 
firmly-rooted beliefs of centuries torn up and tossed aside by the ex- 
plorations and reasoning of intrepid travellers, who, respecting truth 
and facts more than mere theory, have accepted nothing without proof, 
merely because others have so accepted it. This is the ground occupied 
by Captain Wiliard Glazier in his explorations in search of the source 
of the Mississippi, 

" Starting for the headwaters of this great river in July last, he 
learned that the dense forests which surround the source of the 
Father of Waters were rarely penetrated by white men, or even by 
Indians, at any time except in winter, when lakes and rivers were 
frozen up, and the whole surface of the country covered with a man- 
tle of snow. 

" He also heard through the interpreter and Indian guides who ac- 
companied him that the aboriginal inhabitants of these primeval 
forests did not regard Itasca as the source; but, while rejecting it, 
differed among themselves as to what lake really was the fountain- 
head. Some claimed that the stream from Itasca was not itself the 
main stream, but flowed into the river proper some three miles below 
the lake. The stream to which it was tributary, though narrower, 
was, they claimed, deeper and swifter, bringing to the united streams 
more water than the one from Lake Itasca. 

" Others considered the Itascan stream as the main one, but spoke of 
another lake, broad and beautiful, which lay above Itasca and 
poured its clear waters into the accepted source through a small 
stream which entered the southern arm of Lake Itasca. Captain 
Glazier determined to thoroughly examine all this region, and to set- 
tle definitely and forever the true source of the Mississippi. 

"Acting in accordance with this resolution, he pushed on toward 
Itasca, intending to make it a starting-point for further exploration. 
Reaching this objective point after innumerable hardships, he 
camped on Schoolcraft Island, and after a day of rest directed opera- 
tions toward the lakes and streams of the surrounding country. 

" Thoroughly surveying the stream that the Indians claimed to be 
the main one, he found it much inferior in volume to that from 
Itasca. This point settled, he closely examined the shores of Lake 
Itasca for tributary streams, finding but three of any importance. 
Of these three the one by far the largest came in at the extreme 
head of the lake, at a point where it is nearly filled with bulrushes. 

"Taking two canoes, Captain Glazier ascended this stream, which, 
though shallow, is rapid, yet so narrow in places that to jump across 
it would be an easv task. Following its windings, he entered v/hat 



vi APPENDIX. 

appeared to be a lake filled with rushes. Pushing through this b»T» 
rier, however, the canoes soon glided out upon the still surface of a 
beautiful lake, clear as crystal, with pebbly bottom, and its shores 
covered with a thick growth of pine. This lake is formed in the 
shape of a heart, having but one marked promontory. Its greatest 
length is about two miles and its width a mile and a half. 

" Captain Glazier found that this fine lake was fed by three 
rivulets, which rose in swamps a few miles from the lake, and thor- 
oughly convinced that this body of water was the true source of the 
Mississippi, he proclaimed it as such. Without waiting for discus- 
sion, the members of the party decided unanimously to call it Lake 
Glazier in his honor. Modestly expressing -his thanks for this 
mark of their appreciation, Captain Glazier said that, though he 
firmly believed this lake to be the source of the river, he should relax 
none of his vigilance on tlie trip through the unknown part of the 
sfream, but would carefully examine all water flowing into the 
Mississippi, in order to be positive as to the main stream." 



On reaching Hastings, Captain Glazier and his fellow- 
voyagers were hospitably entertained by some of the leading 
citizens and Mr. Paine addressed the following letter to the 

Editor of the Hastiihgs Gazette : 

" Foster House, 
"Hastings, Minnesota^ 
" September 5, 1881. 
" To the Editor of the Gazette : 

" For many years the source of the Mississippi was as much a mys- 
tery as is at present that of the Nile. But when in 1832 Schoolcraft 
made his ofiicial exploration of the headwaters of this great water- 
course, and after a long and arduous journey up the stream reached 
a lake which he named Itasca, and pronounced it the head of the 
river, the matter was considered settled, and speculation was no 
longer rife in regard to this point. Now, however, it has been proved 
by Captain Willard Glazier beyond doubt that the lake which has 
BO long enjoyed the honor of being the source of our greatest river 
had an honor it did not merit. 

" Going thither with the object of visiting the head of the river, Cap- 
tain Glazier was led to suspect by the talk of his guides, one of 
whom, Chenowagesic, had hunted and trapped for years in the region 
around the source, that Lake Itasca had really no greater claim to be 
considered the head of the river than Cass Lake, or Bemidji or 
Winnibegoshish, all larger and finer lakes than Itasca. Above 
and beyond Itasca lay another lake. This, with its feeding springs, 
was the source of the mighty river, and this lake, if it existed, 
Captain Glazier resolved to visit and explore. After a long and se- 
vere journey he reached it, being the first white traveller to float 
upon its surface ; and after thoroughly examining its feeders and the 
narrow stream through which it flowed into Itasca, he felt that he 
had found the true source of the Mississippi. Nevertheless, he con- 
tinued his explorations along the river below Itasca after passing 
through that lake, and satisfied himself thoroughly that the new lake 
was at the head of the main stream. In speaking of the source of 
the Mississippi, therefore, we should henceforth call it Lake Glazieb 
instead of Lake Itasca." 



APPENDIX, yij 

The following description of Lake Glazier from the pen 
of Channing Paine appeared in the Duhuque Herald of Sep- 
tember sixth, 1881 : 

Lake Glazier. 

" The new-found source of the Mississippi is a sparkling little gem 
of a lake, situated above and beyond Lake Itasca. It nestles 
among the pines of an unfrequented and wild region of Northern 
Minnesota, many miles from the nearest white settlement, and just 
on the dividing ridge which forms the great watershed of North 
America. Within a few miles of it can be found lakes and streams, 
whose waters are tributary to the Red River of the North and the 
Yellowstone, thus reaching the sea thousands of miles from the 
mouth of the mighty Mississippi, which flows in a limpid brook 
from Lake Glazier, This lake, discovered to be the source of one 
of the greatest rivers of the world, by Captain Willard Glazier, on 
the Twenty-second of July, 1881, is about two miles in greatest diam- 
eter, and would be nearly round in shape but for a single promon- 
tory, whose rocky shores give it in outline the form of a heart. The 
waters of the lake are exceedingly clear and pure, coming from 
springs, some being at the bottom, but the three most prominent 
rise a few miles back, in low, wet land enclosed by sand-hills, 
and flow into the lake in little rills. On the very point of the pro- 
montory is a spring whose waters are as cold as ice, and at which the 
Glazier party slaked their thirst while exploring the shores of the 
new lake. So lonely is the region around the lake that for fourteen 
days not even a red-skin was seen, and wearied by the hardships 
of this rough country, yet with a feeling of having added something 
to geographical knowledge, the Captain and his party were glad to 
return to civilization." 

The Saint Louis Post-Dispatch published the following, with 
several other communications, from Mr. Paine : 

" 1310 Olive Street, 
"Saint Louis, Missouri, 
" To the Editor— Post-Dispatch : " October 10, 1881. 

" Lake Itasca has been considered- to be the source of the Mississippi 
for so many years that any man who disputes its title to that honor 
Is looked upon as a radical and one bent upon upsetting all our pre- 
conceived geographical ideas. Still it is a fact that Lake Itasca is 
not the source, and has no greater claim to being called so than has 
Cass Lake or Lake Bemidji or Lake Pepin. This fact was discov- 
ered beyond all doubt by Captain Willard Glazier, who equipped an 
expedition last July and started for the headwaters of the Missis- 
sippi. Reaching Lake Itasca after a journey of great hardship, he 
camped on Schoolcraft Island, and, using this as a base of opera- 
tions, he thoroughly explored the lakes and rivers which contribute 
their waters to the infant Mississippi. The various theories and sto- 
ries heard from his Indian guides were considered as clues and faith- 
fully followed up until their truth or falsity was ascertained. Suc- 
cess at length crowned his efibrts, for a beautiful lake was found 
above Itasca, and in the direct line of the course of the river below 
Itasca, which lake proved to be the farthest water — the extreme head 
of the Mississippi. The lake, which the members of the expedition 
Toted to call Lake Glazier, in honor of their leader, is about two 



Viii APPENDIX. 

miles in diameter, with clear and beautiful water, fed by springs, 
and altogether one of the prettiest lakes of its size in Minnesota. 
The stream which flows from it into Itasca is quite rapid, though so 
narrow that in some places one can easily jump across it." 



The following account of an interview with Mr. Paine 
is extracted from the New Orleans Democrat of November 
twentieth, 1881 : 

" There arrived at the Jetties on the fifteenth a tiny cedar canoe, 
bearing aloft at the bows a pennant with the inscription Alice, and 
at the stern a United States flag. Its ofiicers and crew consisted of 
Captain Willard Glazier, a distinguished writer, and a reportorial 
companion, Mr. Barrett. Channing Paine, of the Saint Paul Pioneer 
Press, who had come all the way down the Mississippi, from its 
source, in this frail bark. Great, indeed, was the joy of the voy- 
agers as they glided dov/n to the mouth of the river, and saw the salt 
spray of the Gulf dash high over the seaward wall of the Jetties. 
After clambering U]) by the beacon, and standing gazing at the broad 
expanse of water, toward which they had been paddling for the last 
four months, until they were drenched by an unusually heavy wave, 
the two men again descended slowly, scarcely conscious that their long 
voyage was finished. Hailing a passing boat, they boarded her, and 
the light canoe was made fast behind and towed back to Port Eads, 
where the travellers were most hospitably entertained until the 
arrival of an inward bound steamship to bring them to New Orleans. 

"As this is by far the longest canoe voyage ever made, and ex- 
tended the whole length of the Great River, some account of the ex- 
pedition, its aims and incidents, cannot fail to be of interest. 

"A representative oi i\vQ Democrat had the pleasure of meeting 
Barrett Channing Paine, who accompanied Captain Glazier, and 
from him learned the following particulars of the voyage : 

" Captain Willard Glazier is a serious, soldieily-looking man, and a 
military author of repute. Among his best known works are ' Soldiers 
of the Saddle,' ' Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape,' ' Battles for the 
Union,' 'Heroes of Three Wars,' and 'Peculiarities of American 
Cities.' The Captain does not look like a man of thoughtless, adven- 
turous disposition, and it seems strange at first that he should have 
made the voyage in the manner he did ; but it looks sensible enough 
when his reasons are taken into consideration. The Captain made the 
trip avowedly for the purpose of study and observation, as he did his 
horseback ride across the continent, from Boston to San Francisco, 
in 1876. He wished to thoroughly understand the people of the 
great valley, their social conditions, industries and modes of life. 
He also expected to obtain much enjoyment from the changing 
scenery and climate. Had he travelled by steamboat or railway, he 
would have been whisked through the country in a week or so, and 
would have had absolutely no opportunity for obtaining an inside 
view of the condition of affairs. In addition to seeing the country, 
the Captain designed delivering a lecture prepared specially for the 
purpose on the ' Pioneers of the Mississippi,' in all the imjiortant 
iowns on his route. The lecture treated chiefly of the early explorers 
— De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, and Hennepin. 

"Actuated by these motives, he procured a fine cedar canoe of the 
Kushton model, which he shipped to Aitkin, the most northerly point 
on the river reached by rail. He then went forward, himself, to 



APPENDIX. ix 

Saint Paul, accompanied by his brother, where he was joined by his 
present companion, and there made final preparations for the long 
voyage. 

"At Brainerd the party left the line of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
road, and proceeded by wagon over a road, which was hardly more 
than a trail, to Leech Lake, where the Government has an Indian 
Agency. The country traversed was exceedingly wild, being almost 
without inhabitants, and covered with a growth of jack-pines. It 
being the blueberry season, quite a number of Indians were seen 
picking that fruit, which grows there in abundance. As a rnle the 
braves lay in the shade, smoking or sleeping, while the squaws 
and children did the picking. At night they found a stopping- 
place at Pine Piver, and the following afternoon arrived at the 
Agency, where there are two trading-posts and a number of white 
men. 

" Here three birch-bark canoes were purchased, and the services of 
an equal number of Indian guides procured, one of whom also acted 
in the capacity of interpreter. All of these were required to reach 
the source of the river, which was a matter of great difiiculty and 
some danger. Lake Itasca, which was then supposed by most people 
to be the source of the Mississippi, lay five days' journey away, through 
an almost impassable wilderness. Indeed, it was well-nigh impossi bJe 
to find even an Indian who had visited it. But at last one was found 
in the person of Chenowagesic, a Chippewa brave, who consented to 
pilot the party to that lake. 

" On July seventeenth everything was in readiness, the three birch 
canoes were launched on Leech Lake, and the voyage had fairly 
commenced. After crossing Leech Lake the voyagers pushed up the 
Gabecanazeba River, which was filled with rushes and wild rice. 
Laboriously paddling through these, they reached another lake, and 
encamped for the night. Next morning this lake was crossed, and 
the first real hardship of the expedition confronted them in the shape 
of a portage. The provisions and luggage were taken out of the 
canoes and transported on the backs of the Indians across the coun- 
try, a distance of three miles, through underbrush so thick that they 
could not see ten feet in advance. Five days were spent in this 
manner — first paddling across a little lake, and then making a long 
portage, until at last Lake Itasca was reached, and the party en- 
camped on Schoolcraft Island. By this time the Captain felt con- 
vinced from the talk of the guides, particularly of Chenowagesic, the 
chief guide, whose words were translated to him, that Itasca was not 
the source of the Great River. 

" Determined to ascertain the truth, he proceeded at once to make 
a thorough exploration of the headwaters of the river, guided in a 
great measure by Chenowagesic, who had hunted and trapped for 
years in this region. Various streams joining the infant Mississippi 
were examined, and found to contain less water than that stream, 
thus establishing the fact that Itasca is on the main stream. 
Then a thorough exploration of the shores of the lake itself was 
made. Several creeks were found to enter it, the chief of which 
came in at the southern end of the south-western arm of the 
lake. Itasca, at this point, is filled with bulrushes, through which, 
with great difficulty, the explorers forced their way, but were 
rewarded by finding themselves in a clear, swift-running stream, 
having an average depth of about ten or twelve inches, and a 
width of about five feet. Up this tortuous stream the canoes were 
pushed and dragged, and finally the voyagers shot out upon the 



X APPENDIX. 

Burfaee of a beautiful heart-shaped lake, which proved, upon carefni 
exploration, to be the true source of the Father of Waters. Aftet 
examining the shores, the party landed on a rocky point, and Cap- 
tain Glazier made a short speech, expressing his confident belief that 
they had found the true source of the Great River, and added some- 
thing to the geographical knowledge of the country. He was fol- 
lowed by Mr. Paine, who, after a few introductory remarks, moved 
that the new lake be called Lake Glazier, in honor of the man by 
whom it had been discovered. This motion was adopted by the Cap- 
tain's companions, and after drinking from a spring of ice-cold 
water which bubbled up at their feet, the party re-embarked. Lake 
Glazier is about two miles in greatest diameter, with clear, deep 
waters and wooded shores, being altogether a prettier lake than 
Itasca and both wider and deeper, to whose honors, as source of the 
mighty Mississippi, it succeeds. 

^^ Reporter. — Then which way did you proceed ? " 

"J/r. Paine. — From Lake Glazier the descent of the river began. 
Below Itasca it runs in a northerly direction for a hundred miles or 
more, and then swings round to the eastward, finally bending toward 
the south, which general direction it afterwards maintains. For the 
first few miles it runs between rich meadows, and the canoeists ex- 
pected from this that the voyage would be easy and agreeable. Such 
was not our fortune, however, for we soon found the river to be ob- 
structed by snags, drift-wood and boulders of all sizes. Huge trees had 
in many places fallen completely across the river. These obstacles 
were surmounted in different ways. Sometimes the canoes could be 
pressed down and made to go under the logs ; again, they would have to 
be carried around ; sometimes the drift would be removed, and some- 
times the canoes would be lifted over. At last they had to be carried 
across a portage for half a mile, then launched again, until at length 
the obstructions were passed. Meanwhile, and all through the 
journey, the mosquitoes hovered around us in clouds, making life a 
burden, and causing all the members of the expedition to forget their 
early Christian training. 

" Leaving the obstructions behind, we sped smoothly between the 
waving meadows once more lining the river. But a new hardship 
now threatened us — our rations gave out entirely, and most of the 
ammunition having become wet, starvation stared us in the face. To 
buy anything in that wild country was, of course, impossible. This 
danger was barely averted by the marksmanship of our leader, and 
the dexterity of the Indian guides, who would occasionally kill 
a duck with their paddles. We got down at last to 'hard pan,' and 
had gone without any breakfast or supper the day we reached Lake 
Bemidji. Here we were lucky enough to meet an Indian, who had 
a little flour and pork, and having replenished our larder, we crossed 
the lake and continued our course down the river. 

"A new danger now beset us in the shape of rapids which would 
occur every few miles, rendering canoe navigation extremely hazard- 
ous. Several times holes were stove in the thin birchen canoes, and 
a number of times we were precipitated into the water, but no one 
was dangerously hurt, and the guides were very deft in repairing the 
canoes. 

"A half-day's journey from Lake Bemidji is Cass Lake, a fine 
sheet of water, twenty miles in length by ten wide. The next day, 
Winnibegoshish, the largest lake of the Mississippi, was reached. It 
is twenty miles in diameter, and greeted us with a heavy sea, whi< h 
nearly swamped us as we paddled across the corner to a few scut- 



APPENDIX. Xi 

tered wigwams which form the little Indian village on its banks. 
Two days we were wind-bound, getting away on the morning of the 
third. That night our camp was invaded by a number of hostile 
Indians, but, owing to our vigilance, bloodshed was avoided. 

" In three days more Pokegama Falls were reached, and we saw 
the first white man since leaving Leech Lake. Making a portage 
around the falls, we shot Grand Rapids a few miles below, and slept 
that night beneath the shelter of a roof. Nothing worthy of mention 
occurred between this point and Aitkin, which we reached in four 
days, and at last found ourselves within the bounds of civilization, 
and bade farewell to our Indian guides. Captain Glazier tried to in- 
duce these dusky sons of the forest to accompany him to the Gulf, 
but the stories they had heard of the alligators and snakes of the 
Sunny South terrified them, and they refused. A short rest was taken 
at Aitkin, and then we re-embarked in the pretty modern canoes 
which awaited us there. The descent of the river in these canoes 
was easy and pleasant. At all the principal towns the Captain 
delivered his lecture, 'Pioneers of the Mississippi,' which was 
listened to with great interest. 

"Between Aitkin and Saint Paul numerous and dangerous rapids 
were met, all of which were shot in safety ; and the Falls of Saint 
Anthony reached without accident. Below Saint Anthony Falls the 
scenery is very beautiful, high bluffs arising with more or less abrupt- 
ness from the water's edge. 

"Among other points of especial interest along the Upper Missis- 
sippi, Lake Pepin occupies the most prominent position after Saint 
Anthony Falls. Environed by majestic bluffs and with a length of 
thirty miles it forms a very beautiful sheet of water. But though 
beautiful it is treacherous, and the winds sweeping down between the 
high bluffs frequently make navigation on its waters perilous. In 
the morning when we reached its upper end we found to our dismay 
that the elements had possession, and the waves ran so high that a 
number of river steamers had been compelled to tie up and wait for 
the storm to subside. Captain Glazier, however, having a lecture 
appointment at Lake City, half way down the lake, determined to 
keep his appointment despite the weather, and ventured forth regard- 
less of the warning of the river men. It took us all day to paddle a 
distance of sixteen miles, and many times it seemed that our frail 
boats would be engulfed by the waves which dashed over them ; but 
the danger was passed in safety. 

*' From this point things went smoothly until the canoe fleet was 
just below Winona, when a sudden and violent squall struck the 
boats and came near sending us to the bottom. Fortunately, this too 
was weathered, and then the only drawbacks encountered were the 
continuous and strong headwinds and the seas consequent upon them, 
which tried our nerves so frequently that they came at length to be 
naturally expected. While on the Keokuk Rapids the wind blew so 
strongly that it actually carried the boats up stream, and it was only 
by the hardest paddling that any downward progress could be made. 

"At La Crosse the expedition was reduced in number to the Captain 
and myself, who proceeded to the Gulf in the Alice. Some days were 
spent in all the principal towns. On October eighth Saint Louis was 
reached, and we were welcomed by the various boat-clubs of the city 
and congratulated on having completed the first great section of 
the navigable river. On October tenth we re-embarked and pushed 
on towards the mouth of the river. Everywhere we were received 
with the greatest cordiality. Cairo, Memphis, Vicksburg, Natchez and 
30 



xii APPENDIX. 

Baton Rouge were the chief halting places, but frequently night over- 
took us near some plantation house, and then we were the guests of 
the planters, and were entertained with true Southern hospitality. 

"Special occasion was taken by Captain Glazier to investigate the 
cotton and sugar crops, the relations of the white and colored races, 
and the future possibilities of the South ; and with very gratifying 
results. At last New Orleans was reached. 

"As it was so near his journey's end, and as it was his intention to 
return as soon as he had passed through the Jetties, the Captain deter- 
mined to pass the city on his downward trip witiiout halting. This 
was accordingly done, and three days' paddling brought us to Cap- 
tain Eads' great work. Remaining there a day we returned to the 
city. 

" Thus far Mr. Paine ; and thus ended the longest canoe voyage 
ever made, and one which perhaps entailed more hardships on those 
who made it than any other on record. Starting from the cold 
springs at its source Captain Glazier followed the windings of the 
greatest river on our continent from the pine forests and the wheat 
lands of the extreme Northern States, through all the varying phases 
of climate and industries, to the cotton and sugar-cane section of the 
South; past the orange and banana groves, and on to the broad Gulf. 
Such a journey is full of interesting and strange exj^erieiices, pleas- 
ures and hardships intermingled, and has, Captain Glazier thinks, 
fully repaid the cost in time, money and labor of the undertaking. 

"The canoe in which this long voyage was made has been pre- 
sented by the Captain to the New Orleans Academy of Sciences. 

" It may be well to mention that no one else has ever traversed 
either in canoe, steamboat or otherwise more than two-thirds of the 
course of the Mississippi ; and when it is taken into consideration 
that the distance is considerably over three thousand miles, and that 
the upper portion is filled with rapids, logs and other obstructioas, 
it is not to be wondered at." 



APPENDIX. xiii 



11. 

RECEPTION AT NEW ORLEANS AND SAINT LOUIS. 

ON his return to New Orleans from the Gulf, with the pur- 
pose of viewing the great maritime eity of the South, Cap- 
tain Griazier was met by Dr. J. S. (Jopes, President of the New 
Orleans Academy of Sciences. This gentleman introduced him 
to Mayor Shakeepear, and arrangements were at once made for 
a public reception by the Academy. The following interesting 
account of the ceremony is taken from the New Orleans 
Picayune of November twenty-first, 1881, and shows the esti- 
mate placed on the Captain's exploratory labors by many of 
the most prominent residents of the Crescent City : 

" The termination of the exploring expedition and canoe trip of 
Captain Willard Glazier, extending from his new-found source of the 
Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico, culminated, after a voyage of one 
hundred and seventeen days, in a very general and complimentary 
recognition and ovation on the part of the officials and citizens of New 
Orleans. In company with Dr. J. S. Copes, President of the Academy 
of Sciences, Captain Glazier was presented to His Honor, Mayor 
Shakespear was warmly welcomed, and the freedom of the city ten- 
dered him. 

" In appreciation of the generous hospitality extended to him, the 
Captain expressed a wish to present his beautiful canoe, which had 
safely carried him through his long voyage, to the Academy of 
Sciences, and the following letter accompanied the presentation: 

" * Saint Chakles Hotel, 
" * Ne to Orleans, Louisiana, 
" 'November 21, 1881. 
" ^Joseph S. Copes, M. />., 

^''President — New Orleans Academy of Sciences : 

" * Dear Sir : — I have just concluded upon the border of the State of 
Louisiana a voyage of observation, exploration, and discovery; and, 
as you have expressed considerable interest in the results, and mani- 
fested a desire to possess the canoe in which the voyage was made, I 
find pleasure in presenting it to your honorable society as a souvenir 
of my expedition. 

" ' During this canoe journey of over three thousand miles, begin- 
ning at the headwaters of the Mississippi and extending to the Gulf of 
Mexico, I had the satisfaction of locating the source of the Great 
River which we have traversed, and feel a pride in having corrected 
a geographical error of half a century's standing. 

" ' I will not now enter into a detailed account of my ex])lorations 
on the upper Mississippi, but shall take the earliest opportunity of 
transmitting to your Secretary a complete narrative of the voyage, 



xiv APPENDIX. 

which will be issued in book form as soon as the matter can be pre- 
pared for publication. 

" ' Very respectfully yours, 

" ' WiLLARD Glazier.* 

"A special meeting of the Academy of Sciences was held — Dr. J. S. 
Copes, President, in the chair — for the purpose of receiving from 
Captain Glazier the handsome cedar canoe Alice, with which he had 
navigated the Mississippi from Aitkin to the Gulf. 

" By invitation, Captain Glazier gave an account of his explorations 
on the Upper Mississippi, and especially of that section of country 
beyond Lake Itasca, a body of water which has hitherto been con- 
sidered the fountain-head of the Great River. 

" Dr. Copes, in the name of the Academy, thanked Captain Glazier 
for his valuable gift, which would be highly prized, and then con- 
gratulated him upon his contribution to American geographical 
knowledge. In the course of his remarks, the learned doctor said 
that De Soto penetrated the continent of North America in pursuit 
of gold, and accidentally discovered the Mississippi. Marquette, the 
zealous missionary, traversed the river from the mouth of the Wis- 
consin to the motith of the Arkansas. La Salle pursued his explora- 
tions from the mouth of the Illinois to the Gulf, his sole aim seeming 
to be the conquest of North America in the name of the King of 
France. Hennepin explored but a small section of the stream, ex- 
tending from the mouth of the Wisconsin to Saint Anthony Falls ; 
while Willard Glazier had made the discovery of its primal reservoir, 
and traversed its entire length from source to sea. 

" The members of the Academy listened with great interest to Cap- 
tain Glazier's account of his explorations and discovery, and also to 
the historical address of the President. 

''Dr. J. R. Walker then offered the following resolutions: 

'^^ Resolved, That the thanks of this Academy are due, and are 
hereby tendered, to Captain Willard Glazier for the donation of his 
beautiful canoe, Alice, and for the brief narrative of his explorations 
at the source of the Mississippi River, and of his voyage thence to the 
Gulf of Mexico. 

^''Resolved, That this Academy not only gratefully accepts this 
handsome gift, but promises to preserve and cherish it as a souvenir 
of Captain Glazier's high qualities as an explorer and contributor to 
the increase of American geographical knowledge.' 

" Mr. H. Dudley Coleman then moved that a copy of the resolu- 
tions be appropriately written and framed, and presented to Captain 
Glazier; and that a committee of three be appointed to prepare the 
same. 

" The resolutions were unanimously adopted, when Dr. Copes ap- 
pointed as the committee Messrs. Coleman, Walker, and Blanchard. 

"At the conclusion of the meeting, Mr. Coleman escorted Captain 
Glazier to the Washington Artillery Arsenal, and introduced him to 
Oolonel J. B. Richardson, commanding the battalion, who extended 
to Captain Glazier the hospitalities of the battalion during his stay 
in the city." 



BEFORE THE MISSOURI HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 

Captain Grlazicr returned to Saint Louis from New Orleans, 
having engaged to deliver a lecture in that city on the ' ' Pio- 



APPENDIX. ^y 



neers of the Mississippi. ' ' On his voyage down the river and 
visit to the city, he was unable to remain long enough to fulfil 
the engagement, as winter was rapidly approaching, and it was 
expedient to reach the Grulf as soon as possible. Moreover, he 
wished to present one of his canoes— the Itasca— to the Mis- 
souri Historical Society, in return for the hospitality he had 
received during his previous brief visit ; and it was arranged 
that the presentation should take place on the night of the 
lecture. Accordingly, on the evening of January fourteenth, 
1882, an audience consisting of members of the Historical So- 
ciety, the Academy of Sciences, clergy, officers and teachers of 
the public schools, and the several boat clubs of the city, 
assembled at Mercantile Library Hall, to listen to his lecture 
on the pioneer explorers of the Great River, and to witness 
the presentation of the Itasca. 

At eight o'clock. Captain Glazier, accompanied by Judge 
Albert Todd, Vice-President of the Historical Society, appeared 
on the platform, and the Judge introduced the lecturer in the 
following terms, as reported in the local press : 

"Mark Twain wrote that in his Oriental travels he visited the 
grave of our common ancestor, Adam, and, as a filial mourner he 
copiously wept over it. To me the grave of our common ancestress 
Eve, would be more worthy of my filial affection, but, instead of 
weepmg over it, I should proudly rejoice by reason of her irrepressible 
desire for knowledge. She boldly gratified this desire, and thereby 
litted Adam up from the indolent, browsing life that he seemed dis- 
posed and content to pass in the 'Garden,' and gave birth to thai^ 
spirit of inquiry and investigation which is developing and elevatino- 
their posterity to 'man's pride of place'— 'a little lower than the 
angels'— by keeping them ever discontented with the status quo, and 
constantly pressing on to the 'mark of their high calling' beneath 
the blazing legend 'Excelsior.' It is this ceaseless unrest of the 
spirit, one of the greatest evidences of the soul's immortality, that is 
continually contracting the boundaries of the unknown in geography 
and astronomy, in physics and metaphysics, in all their varfed de- 
partments. Of those pre-eminently illustrating it in geography were 
Jason and his Argonauts; Columbus, De Gama, and Magellan; De 
feoto, Marquette, and La Salle; Cabot and Cook; Speke, Baker 
Livingstone, and Franklin ; and our own Ledyard, Lewis, Clarke' 
Kane, Hall, and Stanley. And this evening will appear before you 
another ot these irrepressible discontents who would know what is 
still hidden, at any risk or privation. 

iir'-'n "^S^/^f ^ ^^ *^^^ ^'^"*^* ^^ enterprise, in search of truth, Captain 
VVillard Glazier has discovered, at last, the true source of our grand 
and peerless river, the ' Father of Waters,' down which he has floated 
and paddled in frail canoes, a distance of more than three thousand 
miles, to its mouth in the Gulf of Mexico. One of these canoes is 
now placed here in your view, and will be presented to-night by its 
navigator to our Historical Society. 



Xvi APPENDIX. 

"Nearly two hundred years ago La Snlle discovered the mouth r~f 
the Mississij)pi, yet only now in this year of grace, 1881, was abcu- 
tained its true fountain source. 

" This, the latest achievement of Captain Glazier, is only in the 
natural course of his antecedents. Born as late as 1841, he has already 
gone through the experiences of the Adamic labors of a tiller of the 
soil, the hard toils of the student and of the successful teacher; of the 
dashing and brilliant cavalry officer in the Union army through tlu- 
whole period of our late war, trom its disastrous beginning to its 
successful ending; of the sufferings of capture and imprisonment in 
the notorious ' Libby,' and otlier prisons, and of a daring and perilous 
escape from their cruel walls; of an adventurous tourist on horse- 
back through the most civilized and savage portions of our continent, 
beginning with the feet of his horse in the waters of the Atlantic, and 
ending with their splash in the waters of the Pacific. He delivered 
lectures along his route wherever a civilized audience could be col- 
lected, and suffered capture by the Indians, with all its sensational 
romance and hideous prospects. 

"From the material of these antecedents he has written and pub- 
lished several books of singular interest and national value. 

" From this brief sketch we would naturally expect to see a stalwart 
man, massive and powerful in form and muscle. Our conceptions 
of men of big deeds is that they are also big. But David was a strip- 
ling when he slew Goliath of Gath. Napoleon was characterized by 
the society ladies of the period of his early career as * Puss in Boots.' 
Our own Fremont and Eads would seem at sight capable of only the 
ordinarily exposed duties of life. Of like physique is the subject of 
this introduction. 

"Ladies and gentlemen, it is now my pleasant privilege to intro- 
duce to your acquaintance Captain Willard Glazier as the lecturer 
for the evening." 

Captain Glazier then delivered his interesting historical lec- 
ture on the "Pioneers of the Mississippi." The adven- 
tures and discoveries of De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, Henne- 
pin, Joliet, and others, including the more recent explorers, 
Pike, Beltrami, Schoolcraft, and Nicollet, were intelligently 
discussed, and the attention of all present absorbed by the 
interest of the subject. He spoke of the ambition of De Soto 
to found an empire like that of Cortez in Mexico ; of his arrival 
on the banks of the Great River, and finally of his death and 
burial in its depths. Concerning Father Marquette, the lec- 
turer dwelt upon the zeal with which he preached the Gospel 
to the benighted Indians, and his premature death and burial 
in the wilderness. La Salle was then presented as an intrepid 
pioneer, pushing down the mighty river to plant his banner on 
the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, and taking possession of the 
country through which he had passed in the name of the King 
of France. The exploits of Hennepin, Joliet, and others were 



APPENDIX. xvii 

then recounted, and tlie lecturer gave eridence of great famil- 
iarity with the lives of these heroic pioneer explorers of the 
Mississippi. The following letter was then read : 

'^ "1310 Olive Street, 

"Saint Louis, Missouri^ 
" January 14, 1882. 

"Edwin Harrison, Esq., 

"President Missouri Historical Society : 

" Dear Sir : — In my recent canoe voyage down the Mississippi it 
was my good fortune to receive many courtesies at the hands of the 
press, boat clubs, and citizens of Saint Louis. This, coupled with the 
fact that you have expressed considerable interest in the result of my 
explorations, inclines me to present to you the Itasca, one of the 
canoes used in the expedition, for the museum of your Society, as a 
memento of my voyage and discovery. 

" During this tour of observation, extending from the headwaters 
of the Mississippi River to the Gulf of Mexico, I had the satisfaction 
of locating the true source of the mighty stream down which we 
paddled our canoes to the sea. 

" I am not now able to give you a detailed account of my voyage, 
but shall avail myself of the earliest opportunity to transmit to your 
Secretary a complete history of it, which will be issued in book form 
as soon as the material can be put in proper shape for publication. 

" Very truly yours, 

" WiLLARD Glazier." 

Captain Silas Bent, late of the U. S. N., accepted the canoe 
for the society, in the following words : 

" Captain Glazier : 

" It becomes my jjleasant duty to accept, for the Missouri Historical 
Society, this beautiful canoe, which has itself become historic by 
reason of tlie service it has rendered you. It shall be deposited with 
other treasured relics in our museum. 

" I have also to express to you the high appreciation in which the 
Society holds the valuable contribution to geographical knowledge 
resulting from your explorations among the headwaters of the Missis- 
sippi River, and your discovery of the remotest lake that contributes 
to the perennial birth of this hydra-headed ' Father of Waters,' whose 
genesis near the Arctic regions gives it a length of more than three 
thousand miles to the tropical gulf, to which it bears upon its ample 
bosom in safety the freightage of an empire. 

" I desire, too, to thank you for the interesting lecture just given 
us upon the achievements of the heroic old explorers, who have, in 
centuries past, preceded you in investigations of the characteristics 
of this river. But whilst past investigations have made us familiar 
with the general character of the stream, and the peculiarities of its 
many mouths, yet we know very little of its source ; and should be 
gratified, I am sure, if you could give us, this evening, a brief account 
of the circumstances attending your explorations in that direction, 
and of the difficulties you had to encounter in the accomplishment 
of your object." 

In oompliance with Captain Bent's request that he would 



xviii APPENDIX. 

give some account of the events connected with the expedition 
to the source of the Mississippi, Captain Grlazier then briefly 
narrated the leading incidents of his voyage and explorations. 
At the conclusion, several gentlemen came forward to congratu- 
late him upon the practical results of his undertaking and ex- 
pressed their appreciation of the work he had accomplished. 
The Itasca^ which occupied a prominent position on the plat- 
form, was duly inspected, and afterwards removed Ijo the 
rooms of the Historical Society. 



APPENDIX, xj^ 



m. 

LETTERS PERTINENT TO THE SUBJECT. 

ALETTEK from Captain Griazier which appeared in the Saint 
Paul Pioneer Press in December, 1886, and was copied 
into several Eastern papers, is here introduced as an epitomized 
narrative of the discovery. The journey to the headwaters of 
the Mississippi, the launch of the canoes on Lake Itasca, the 
search for its feeders and the finding of one larger than the 
others which the Indian guides said flowed from another lake 
to the south of it ; the passage of the canoes up this feeder 
and the entrance of the explorers upon a beautiful lake which 
they ascertained by sounding and measurement to be wider 
and deeper than Itasca, and the veritable source of the Great 
River ; all this is succinctly told in the following letter of the 
leader of the expedition, and we respectfully commend its 
perusal to the reader : 

"To the Editor — Pioneer Press, Saint Paul, Minnesota: 

"I solicit the favor of replying through your columus to articles 
in one or two New York dailies calling in question my claim to 
have definitely located, in 1881, the true source of the Mississippi 
River. 

" When my attention was first drawn to the articles of those who 
seem so much exercised by my expedition to the headwaters of the 
Mississippi, I had no intention of replying, but have finally yielded 
to the reasoning of friends who feel that longer silence might possibly 
be construed to my disadvantage. 

" I am well aware that I assume grave responsibility in locating 
the source of the greatest river of North America and correct! nij a 
geographical error of half a century's standing, especially since I follow 
in the footsteps of such eminent explorers as Pike, Beltrami, School- 
craft and Nicollet; and in view of the fact that I have presumed to 
pass the limit of their explorations. 

" For many years prior to 1881, 1 had been of the opinion that Lake 
Itasca occupied an erroneous position in our geography. In fact I 
had become satisfied tli rough conversations with straggling ChippewAS 
in the Northwest, that the red man's ideal river did not rise in the 
lake described by his white brother, but that there were other lakes 
and streams beyond that lake and that some day the truth of their 
statements would be verified. 

" Thoroughly convinced that there was yet a field for exploration 
in the wilds of Northern Minnesota I resolved, in 1876, to attempt a 
settlement of the vexed question concerning the source of the Missis- 
sippi at an early day. Finding the opportunity I sought in 1881 J 



j^j^ APPENDIX. 

proceeded to Saint Paul in June of that year accompanied by Pearce 
Giles, of Camden, New Jersey. Here I was joined by my brother 
George, of Chicago, and Barrett Chauning Paine, then an attache of 
the Pioneer Press. 

" Having completed arrangements we moved from Saint Paul on the 
morning of July Fourth with Brainerd as our immediate objective. 
Short stops were made at Minneapolis, Monticello, Saint Cloud and 
Little Falls on our way up the river, Brainerd was reached July 
seventh. This enterprising town is situated near the boundary of the 
Chippewa Indian Reservation and is the nearest place of consequence 
to Lake Itasca. Here I again halted to further inform myself con- 
cerning the topography of the country ; to decide upon the most 
practicable route to our destination, and to provide such extra sup- 
plies of rations and clothing as might be considered adequate to the 
requirements of our undertaking. 

"After consulting our maps I concluded that while Schoolcraft and 
Nicollet had found Itasca by going up the river through Lakes 
Winnibegoshish, Cass and Bemidji, a more direct course would be by 
way of Leech Lake and the Kabekanka River. 

"A careful study of the route to Leech Lake, with a few valuable 
suggestions from Warren Leland, of Brainerd, one of its oldest 
pioneers, led us to seek conveyance to the former place over what is 
known in Northern Minnesota as the Government Road. This road 
stretches for seventy-five miles, through immense pine forests, and 
the only habitations to be seen from it are the ' half-way houses ' 
erected for the accommodation of teamsters who are engaged in hauling 
government supplies; and the occasional wigwams of wandering 
Indians. 

" While at the Leech Lake Agency it was our good fortune to meet 
the post-missionary, Rev. Edwin Benedict; Major A. C. Rufie, the 
Indian Agent; Paul Beaulieu, the veteran Government Interpreter; 
White-Cloud, chief of the Mississippi Indians; Flat-Mouth, head 
chief of the Chippewas, and others well known at the Agency. 
Through conversations with these parties I learned that pioneers of 
that region were of the opinion that the lake located by Schoolcraft 
was the source of the Mississippi, but that the Indians invariably 
claimed that the Great River had its origin above and beyond Itasca, 
in a beautiful lake known to them as Pokegama, signifying the 
' place where the waters gather.' 

" Beaulieu, who is perhaps the best authority in Minnesota, having 
lived for more than sixty years within its borders, said that Cheno- 
wagesic, who afterwards became my chief guide, was the most intelli- 
gent Chippewa of his acquaintance, had made his home for many 
years in the vicinity of the headwaters of the Mississippi, and Ihat 
he had always asserted, when maps were shown him, that a lake 
above Itasca would in time cluuige a feature of those maps and con- 
firm his statement that Lake Itasca could not longer maintain its 
claim to being the fountain-heal of the Great River. 

" Three days were spent at Leech Lake, during which time we 
secured an interpreter, Indian guides and birch- bark canoes. Every- 
thing being in order we launched our canoes on the morning of July 
seventeenth. Wishing, as previously explained, to approach Itasca 
by a different route from that adopted by Schoolcraft and Nicollet 
who went up the Mississippi from Lake Winnibegoshish, I crossed 
Leech Lake and ascended the Kabekanka River, thence proceeding 
in a direct westerly course through twenty-one lakes, alternated by 
as many portages, reaching Itasca between two and three o'clock Mt 



APPENDIX. XXi 

the afternooji of the twenty-first. The region traversed, Ave were told 
by the guides, had never before been trodden by white n^n ; and 
considering the nature of the country it is not to be wondered at, as 
swamps, floating bogs, and dense undergrowth were encountered 
throughout the entire journey. 

" The work of coasting Itasca for its feeders was begun at an early 
hour on the morning of the twenty-second. We found the outlets 
of six small streams, two having well-defined mouths, and four filter- 
ing into the lake through bogs. The upper or southern end of the 
south-western arm of Lake Itasca is heavily margined with reeds and 
rushes, and it was not without considerable difiiculty that we forced 
our way through this barrier into the larger of the two open stream* 
which enter at this point. This stream, at its mouth, is seven feet 
wide and about three feet deep. 

"Slow and sinuous progress of between two and three hundred 
yards brought us to a blockade of logs and shallow water. Deter- 
mined to float in my canoe upon the surface of the lake towards which 
we were paddling, I directed the guides to remove the obstructions, 
and continued to urge the canoes rapidly forward, although opposed 
by a strong and constantly increasing current. On pulling and 
pushing our way through a network of rushes, similar to that encoun- 
tered on leaving Lake Itasca, the cheering sight of a tranquil and 
limpid sheet of water burst upon our view. 

" This lake, the Chippewa name of which is Pokegama, is about a 
mile and a half in its greatest diameter, covers an area of two hun- 
dred and fifty acres, and would be nearly an oval in form but for a 
single promontory, which extends its shores into the lake, so as to 
give it in outline the appearance of a heart. Its feeders are three 
small creeks, two of which enter on the right and left of the head- 
land, and have their origin in springs at the foot of sand hills from 
two to three miles distant. The third stream is but little more than 
a rivulet of a mile in length, has no clearly defined course, and is the 
outlet of a small pond or lakelet to the south-westward. 

" The latitude of the lake in question is about 47° ; its height above 
the Atlantic Ocean 1,582 feet, and its distance from the Gulf of 
Mexico 3,184 miles. 

"The statement that the lake now very generally accepted by 
geographers, and educational publishers as the True Source of the 
Mississippi was so regarded prior to the organization of ray expedi- 
tion cannot be substantiated ; for, on the contrary, both press and 
people throughout Minnesota were ignorant of its existence, so far as 
we were able to ascertain by diligent inquiry from Saint Paul to 
Brainerd; and, in fact, I may add that the missionary, Indian 
agent, and post-trader at Leech Lake knew no other source of the 
Mississippi than Lake Itasca, except what they had been told by 
my chief guide, Chenowagesic, and a few other Chippewas in that 
vicinity. Barrett Channing Paine, fully confirms this statement in 
his letters to the Brainerd, Minneapolis, and Saint Paul papers of 
that period. These letters prove most conclusively that the people 
of Northern Minnesota had no knowledge whatever of the lake be- 
yond Itasca until its existence was announced by me through the 
medium of the press in 1881. 

" If the assumption by some writers that the lake to the south of 
Itasca had been seen before my visit to that region in 1881 is well 
grounded, I need only say in reply that it had not been assigned any 
geographical importance prior to my visit ; in other words, it had not 
been recognized by any one as the true source of the Mississippi. 



Xxii APPENDIX, 

"When William Morrison, the fur-trader, pitched his tent on 
Schoolcraft Island in 1804, he evidently did not Know that the outlet 
of the lake on which he looked was a part of the mighty river. 
Schoolcraft followed, at the head of an expedition twenty-eight years 
later, and claimed the lake as the source of the Mississippi. It ia 
very generally admitted that Morrison had seen Itasca before School- 
craft, but no one questioned that the latter was entitled to the credit 
of discovery, since he was the first to establish the fact that the 
Mississippi was its outlet. My claim to have definitely located the 
true source in the lake beyond Itasca stands on precisely the same 
ground. 

" I do not desire to pass a reasonable limit in an effort to insure 
justice, but having consumed considerable time and money in locat- 
ing lakes and streams in Northern Minnesota, and having established 
that the lake to the south of Itasca is the primal reservoir of the 
Mississippi, I do not feel disposed to allow myself to be thrust aside 
by those who know comparatively little or nothing of that region. 

"Assuming that the statements of my party are incontrovertible 
concerning the lake which we claim as the True Source of the Great 
River, it follows naturally : 

" I. That Lake Itasca cannot longer be recognized as the fountain- 
head of the Mississippi, for the reason that it is the custom, agreeably 
*^^o the definition of geographers, to fix upon the remotest water, and 
si lake if possible, as t|ie source of a river. 

" II. That the lake to the south of Itasca, and connected therewith 
by a perennial stream, is the primal reservoir or True Source of the 
Mississippi; that it was not so considered prior to the visit of my ex- 
pedition in 1881 ; and that my party was the first to locate its feeders 
correctly, and discover its true relation to the Great River. 

"III. That Schoolcraft could not have seen the lake located by 
me, else he would have assigned it its true character in the narrative 
of his expedition. 

" IV. That Nicollet, who followed Schoolcraft, could not have 
been aware of its existence, as he gives it no place upon his maps, or 
description in the accounts of his explorations. 

" V. That the lake known as Pokegama by the Chippewas was 
not christened 'Glazier' by me, or through ray instrumentality, but 
was so named by my companions, in opposition to my wish that it 
should retain its Indian appellation. 

" Finally, whatever the verdict may be upon the merits of my claim 
to have been the first to locate the source of the Mississippi River and 
publish it to the world, if any person had seen this lake prior to 1881 
it was certainly not known to the white residents of Northern Minnc 
sota, or to the Indian tribes in the vicinity of its headwaters. Lake 
Itasca was still recognized as the fountain-head, was so placed upon 
maps, and taught as such in all the schools of the country. 

" I simply claim to have established the fact that there is a beau- 
tiful lake above and beyond Itasca — wider and deeper than that 
lake — with woodland shores — with three constantly flowing streams 
for its feeders — and in every way worthy of the position it occupies 
as the primal reservoir or true source of the Father of Waters. 

"WiLLARD Glazier. 

"Syracuse, New York, December, 1886." 



A letter irom Pearce Griles, of Camden, New Jersey, who 



APPENDIX. Xxili 

was identified witli tlie GtLAZIER expedition from its inception 
to its close : 

" To the Editor — Boston Herald : 

" In 1832 Henry Rowe Schoolcraft led an expedition through the 
wilds of Northern Minnesota and discovered what he believed to be 
the source of the Mississippi. Being at a loss for an appropriate name 
to bestow upon the lake which constituted this supposed source, so 
the story goes, he asked a companion what were the Latin words 
signifying * true head,' and received in reply ' Veritas caput.' This 
was rather a ponderous name to give a comparatively small body of 
water, even though the Father of Waters here took his first start in 
the world. The explorer, therefore, conceived the idea of uniting the 
last two syllables of the first word with the first syllable of the second, 
thus, by a novel mode of orthography, forming a name which might 
easily pass for one of Indian origin — Itasca. A person versed in 
orthographical science would probably perceive at once that the name 
did not belong to the same family of harsh Indian appellations which 
have affixed themselves permanently to many towns and rivers in 
Wisconsin and Minnesota, but was more allied to the softer language 
of southern Indian nations. But it has now been discovered that 
Lake Itasca is not Veritas caput; and Lake Glazier, discovered in 
July, 1881, by Captain Willard Glazier, must be regarded by all 
future generations as the true head of the Mississippi. 

"The Mississippi, on its first stages, flows in a northerly direction, 
the whole system of small lakes which contribute to it being sur- 
rounded on the north and west by an amphitheatre of hills. Lake 
Glazier lies above and beyond Lake Itasca, and its waters have an 
elevation of probably seven feet above th-at lake, being connected 
therewith by a small, swift stream. Lake Itasca is composed of three 
arms, extending in the form of a trefoil, having a length of five miles 
and an average width of about one mile. The upper, or southern 
end of its middle arm apparently terminates in a swamp, which 
might easily have deceived any one not familiar with the country. 
But Chenowagesic, Captain Glazier's Indian guide, who had for 
years used the region of these lakes for his hunting-ground, readily 
made his way through the reeds and rushes at the mouth of the 
connecting stream. Lake Glazier at its outlet preseiits another 
barricade of reeds, through which the party made their way in their 
canoes. 

"Lake Glazier is about two miles in length by a mile and a 
half in breadth. Its shores, instead of being low and marshy, as are 
those of many of the neighboring lakes, present finely wooded slopes 
and surround the lake in what would have been the shape of a per- 
fect oval, had not a bold, rocky promontory indented its southern 
end, and given to it the outline of a heart. On the point of this 
promontory is a spring from which flows ice-cold water. The waters 
of the lake are exceedingly clear and pure, proceeding from springs, 
some of them in the bottom of the lake itself, and the others at a 
greater or less distance from its shores. 

"Lake Glazier has three small feeders, one of them named 
Eagle Creek, entering it near its outlet, and taking its rise a mile or 
60 farther south, in a small pond or lakelet, upon which Captain 
Glazier bestowed the name of 'Alice,' after his daughter. Eagle 
Creek runs nearly parallel with the western shore of the lake, a little 
distance from it. Two streams, two or three miles in length, flow 
Bortkward into Lake Glazier at its southern extremity oci eithei 



xxiv APPENDIX. 

side of the indenting promontory. Excelsior Creek, so named because 
it represents the very highest water of the Mississippi, is the longer 
of these. Deer Creek, to the eastward, and rising a little nearer the 
lake, has been so named for the reason that numbers of deer were 
seen in its vicinity. 

" Lake Glazier is thus supplied by three feeders. Eagle, Excelsior 
and Deer Creeks, now named in the order of their importance, and 
as uniting these waters in one common reservoir, this lake is 
undoubtedly entitled to be regarded as the Veritas caput — the true 
head of the Mississippi. " Peakce Giles. 

" Boston, August 6, 1886." 



We insert here an interesting letter from Paul Beaulieu, 
Interpreter to the United States Indian Agency, White Earth, 
Minnesota. Mr. Beaulieu is a very intelligent lialf-breed, 
about sixty years of age, and has lived nearly all his life in 
the neighborhood of the headwaters of the Mississippi. His 
testimony, therefore, upon a subject with which he must 
necessarily be familiar, will have due weight with the inquir- 
ing reader : 

" U. S. Indian Service, 
» " White Earth Agency, Minnesota, 

" May 25, 1884. 

"Dear Sir: — I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your 
letter of the sixteenth instant. In reply, I would respectfully state 
that according to the ideas of the people of this section of country, 
for a score of years past, in alluding to Lake Itasca, which is known 
only as Elk Lake by the original inhabitants of this country, was 
never by them considered as the head or source of the Father of 
Running Waters, or May-see-see-be, as it is by them named. I have 
received a map showing the route of exploration of Captain Willard 
Glazier in 1881, and being well acquainted with his chief guide, Cheno- 
wagesic, who has made the section of country explored by Captain 
Glazier his home for many years in the past, and who has proved 
the truth of his often repeated assertion, when maps were shown him, 
that a smaller lake above Lake Itasca would in time change a 
feature of those maps, and proclaim to the world that Lake Itasca 
cannot longer maintain its claim as being the fountain head of Ke- 
chee-see-be, or Great River, which is called May-see-see-be, by the 
Chippewas. The map as delineated by Captain Glazier's guide, 
Chenowagesic, and published by the Glazier party, is correct ; and it 
is plain to us who know the lay of this whole country (I mean by us^ 
the Chippewa tribe in particular, also the recent explorers for pine) 
that Lake Glazier is located at the right place, and is the last lake 
on the longest stream of the several rivers at the head of the great 
Mississippi. " With respect, yours truly, 

" Paul Beaulief, 
" U. S. Indian Interpreter." 



An eastern correspondent addressed the following com- 
munication to the Saint Paul Dispatch, in which he claims 



APPENDIX. XXV" 

ihat the discovery of tlie true source of the Mississippi should 
be credited to Captain Grlazier : 

" Jb the Editor — Saint Paul Dispatch: 

" Having been a resident of Minnesota in 1855, I wish to say a 
word about Captain Glazier and his discovery. Minnesota, at the 
time of my residence there, was thinly settled. Minneapolis and 
Saint Anthony were both straggling villages. Saint Paul could 
boast of something like 10,000 population. The nearest railroad 
point to the latter city was one hundred and thirty miles distant. 
In winter Burbank's Northwestern Express carried the mails and 
the very few passengers that could muster courage to make the toil- 
some journey ; and well do I remember my trip over this route. I 
know that, at that time, there was a question with the Sioux, Chip- 
pewas and many pioneers as to Lake Itasca being the source of the 
Great River. There was a settled opinion that something would be 
found beyond that would eventually prove to be the source of that 
stream. I believe Captain Glazier to have been actuated by a desire 
to establish the truth of this problem. Interested parties may seek 
to withhold from him his rightful due as a discoverer, but notwith- 
standing these attempts, in some schools in this region. Lake 
Gi.AZiER is taught as the true source of the Mississippi. To at- 
tempt to discredit one who took front rank for the preservation 
of the Union, and who suffered in many rebel prisons, is altogether 
unworthy of the parties who are making themselves conspicuous in 
^he matter. " J. C. Crane. 

" West Millbuey, Massachusetts, January, 1887." 



Letter from Mr. John Lovell, geographer and historian, and 
one of the leading educational publishers of the Dominion of 
Canada : 

"Captain Willard Glazier: 

^'Dear Sir : — I ovye you an apology for not having earlier acknowl- 
edged your courtesy in sending me a copy of your remarkably inter- 
esting work 'Down the Great River.' Owing to illness and a 
variety of calls on my time, I had not an opportunity ere this of 
finishing the reading of it. I have no hesitation in saying that it is 
most interesting and instructive, especially where you so ably sum- 
marize the results of former expeditions, and where you describe in 
animated language the aim, course, and outcome of your own explor- 
ations. You have had an experience which has fallen to the lot of 
few travellers, and, in certifying the source of the Father of Waters, 
have rendered a great service to the cause of geographical discovery. 
The account of your voyage from the newly discovered Source to the 
Gulf of Mexico gave me much pleasure and information. The 
patience and endurance of the brave fellows who were with you, 
considering the distance, in canoes, is worthy of praise. Your own 
able management of the expedition is worthy of all commendation 
and of substantial and immediate thanks from the good men of 
your own wonderful country. 

" Again I sincerely thank you for your handsome and most accept- 
able present. 

" With sincere respect, I remain, dear sir, 

" Yours faithfully, 

"John Lovell, 

" Montreal, October 17, 18§7." 



Xxvi APPEXDIX, 

The following letter will speak for itself. M^ Grus. H. 
Beaulieu, of White Earth, Minnesota, Deputy United States 
Marshal for the district, is an educated half-breed, and cousin 
of Paul Beaulieu. His home is on the Chippewa Indian 
Reservation, within sixty miles of the source of the Mississippi. 
In this letter he presents the Indian theory as to the com- 
parative volume of water in the two lakes — Glazier and 
Itasca : 

" Captain Willaed Glazier : 

"i>ear Sir : — I have been somewhat interested in your discussion 
regarding the source of the Mississippi. Even had you never pro- 
claimed to the world your discoveries, from information received by 
me from Indians and old mixed-blood Indian voyageurs, there would 
have always been a doubt existing with me as to whether Itasca was 
the head of the Mississippi. 

"Henry Beaulieu, a brother of Paul Beaulieu, always maintained 
that Lake Glazier was the true source of the Mississippi. I remem- 
ber that, after his return from Itasca with Mr. Chambers of the New 
York Herald, I think in 1872, he said that Winnibegoshish or Cass 
Lake might as well be called the source of the Mississippi as Itasca. 
Other mixed-blood have repeatedly stated the same thing. I men- 
tion this to show you what the general opinion is among Indians and 
those of mixed blood. 

" Chenowagesic's theory concerning the head of the Mississippi 
is this: That while Itasca presents a larger surface than Lake 
Glazier, it does not contain as much water as the latter. He arrives 
at this conclusion from the fact that Itasca freezes over two or three 
weeks before Lake Glazier. This, he says, is a sure sign that the 
latter lake is the deeper of the two, and contains more water. His 
arguments in favor of Lake Glazier are rather novel, and, as & 
matter of course, are taken from an Indian's standpoint, 

" Yours truly, 

*' Gfs. H. Beaulisu. 

'* White Earth, Minnesota, December ^7, 1887." 




THE LAKE BEYOND ITASCA. 



31 



APPENDIX. xxvli 



IV. 

PUBLIC OPINION IN MINNESOTA. 

THE evidence here presented in support of Lake Glazier 
is, in our judgment, most conclusive ; we may add, 
overwhelming. Many of the most prominent citizens of 
the State in which the Great River takes its rise volunteer 
their endorsement of a claim, of the merits of which, they must 
necessarily be better informed than persons living at a remote 
distance from the head of the river. State authorities, includ- 
ing the Governor and his staff; senators and representativas. 
many of whom have resided from twenty to forty yeflTs in 
Minnesota ; pioneers, clergymen, and school-teachers, \i /tb 
many of the leading citizens ; editors, school-superintendents, 
professional men, and others, strongly affirm that Lake Itasca 
is not the source of the Mississippi, but that the lake to the 
south of it, definitely located by Captain Glazier, is the prima: 
reservoir or true source of the Father of Waters. These wit- 
nesses, moreover, unequivocally assert that the credit of the 
discovery should be awarded to the man who made it, notwith- 
standing the groundless opposition of a few cavillers who have 
never themselves visited within many hundred miles a region 
they affect to be so marveiously familiar with. 

From His Excellency, A. R. 3IcGill, Governor of 3Ilnnesota : 

" Captain Glazier's claim to be the discoverer of the true source of 
the Mississippi seems reasonable, to say the least. I have been a 
resident of Minnesota twenty-six years, and never until Captain 
Glazier's expedition, heard the claim of Itasca being the source of the 
Great E-iver seriously questioned." 



From Hon. Horace Austin, Ex- Governor : 

" I think that it would be a very proper thing to do under tlie cir- 
cumstances that Captain Glazier's services should be recognized by 
the passage of a bill by the Legislature giving his name to the lake 
which is the real source of the Mississippi." 



From Hon. W. H Gale, Ex-Lieiitenant-Governor, Winona: 

" I have been a resident of Minnesota for more tliau twenty-eight 
years, and I believe it was the generally accepted ojnnion of tiie pco' 
pie of this State that Lake Itasca was the source of the Mississipp 



Xxviii APPENDIX. 

"Eiver, until after the expedition of Captain Willard Glazier, and his 
publication to the world that another lake south of Lake Itasca was 
the true source, to which lake has been given the name of Lake 
Glazier. This is now generally recognized as the true source aud 
head of the Mississippi, and Captain Glazier as the man who first 
made known that fact to the world." 

From F. W. Seeley, Adjutant- General . 

"I desire to say, in justi«e to Captain Glazier, that, having been a 
resident of Minnesota for Ihveuty-five years, and quite familiar with 
the geography of the State, it is my belief that he was the first to dis- 
cover tlie true source of the Mississippi River and publish it to the 
world." 

From Moses E. Clapp, Attorney- G eneral : 

" From such information as I have on the subject, I am convinced 
that the actual source of the Mississippi had not been recognized 
prior to the published accounts of the explorations of Captain Wil- 
Jard Glazier." 

From H. W. Childs, Assistant Attorney- General : 

" There is, in my opinion, no reason or ground for disputing Cap- 
tain Glazier's claim to have located the body of water now undoubt- 
edly regarded as the source of the Mississippi Eiver, and appropriately 
named Lake Glazier," 

From J. K. Moore, Private Secretary to Governor McGill: 

" From the evidence, it seems clear to me that the actual source of 
the Mississippi River had never been recognized until Captain 
Glazier made its discovery in 1881." 



Frovi Gus. H. Beaulieu, Deputy U. S. Marshal, District of Minnesota : 

*' Having been born and raised in the State of Minnesota, and a 
resident of VVhite Earth Indian Reservation, and being familiar 
with the Indian traditions, I certify that Itasca Lake had never been 
considered the source of the Mississippi by the best informed Chip- 
pewa Indians. Although I had never seen any published maps to 
the contrary, prior to the expedition of Captain Glazier in 1881, from 
the best information I have among the Indians, I now regard Lake 
Glazier as the true source of the Mississippi River. I regard his 
chief guide, Chenowagesic, as the best authority among the Indians 
regarding the section of country about the headwaters of the Mis- 
sissippi, and consider him thoroughly reliable. 



From Ed. W. S. Tingle, St. Paul Globe : 

"After a study of the literature of the subject, I am convinced that 
the lake to which the name of Glazier was given by the Glazier 
exploring expedition is undoubtedly the true source of the Mississippi, 
and that Captain Glazier was the first to call general public attention 
io the fact." 



APPENDIX. xxix 

From Rev. W. T. Chase, Pastor First Baptist Church, Minneapolis: 

" There seems no reasonable doubt that the actual source of the 
Mississippi had never been recognized until Captain Willard Glazier 
made its discovery in 1881. Captain Glazier merits the gratitude of 
every citizen of the United States who is interested in knowing all 
that is knowable about the great Father of Waters." 



From Ex-Mayor Pillsbury, Minneapolis : 

'* From the best information I have been able to obtain, I am satis- 
fied that Captain Willard Glazier was the first person that discovered 
the true source of the Mississippi." 



From Rev. J. L.'Pitner, Pastor Methodist Episcopal Church, 
Minneapolis : 

"From the evidence I have examined, I am convinced that the 
real source of the Mississippi was not known i^rior to 1881. I am 
quite sure the claims of Lake Glazier are not ill-founded, and that 
in its deep, cool bosom the Great River takes its rise." 



From John E. Bradley, Superintendent Public Schools, Minneapolis : 

" From such examination as I have been able to give to the 
problem of the true source of the Mississippi, it seems to be satisfac- 
torily established that Lake Glazier is to be so regarded." 



From Hon. Samuel E. Adams, Member of the Minnesota Historical 
Society, Monticello : 

" I have no doubt of the correctness of Captain Glazier's statement 
that he discovered the new source of the Mississippi now bearing his 
name." 

From •J'ohn H. Elliott, Secretary Y. M. C. A., Minneapolis : 

" I have no hesitation in stating that I believe Lake Glazier ttt 
be the real source of the Mississippi River, and that Captain Glaaier'c 
claims are entitled to respectful and grateful recognition." 



From J. S. McLain, Evening Journal, Minneapolis : 

" I have no reason to question the claim of Captain Glazier to have 
been the first to correctly map the section of country about the source 
of the Mississippi, or that the body of water which bears his nam* 
is the true source of the Great River." 



From Albert Shaw, Minneapolis Tribune : 

"Unquestionably Captain Glazier may claim the credit of having 
called public attention to the fact that there is a lake beyond Lake 
Itasca which is more strictl}'- to be considered as the source of the 
Mississippi. That the lake will always be called Lake Glazier^ 
and that it will henceforth be spoken of everywhere as the source of 
the Great Hiver, I have no doubt; 'aor do I doubt the propriety of the 
name." 

27 



XXX APPENDIX. 

From Judge John P. Rea, Commander-in- Chief G. A . E., Minn eapolis : 

" I have resided in Minnesota eleven years, and ahvays supposed 
that Lake Itasca was the source of the Mississippi. I never heard 
the fact questioned until within the past four or five years. From all 
the evidence I have upon the subject, I am satisfied that Lake 
Glazieu is the true source." 

From G. M. Wing, Secretary North- West Indian Commission^ 

3Ii7ineapolis : 

"Concerning the real source of the Mississippi, I would say that 
the lake which Captain Willard Glazier has located, and which he 
claims to be the source, is no doubt more properly the true source of 
this Great River than Lake Itasca. There is no doubt whatever in 
my mind but that Captain Glazier was the first person to discover 
that fact, and make the same known to the world ; and that fact 
alone, though it might have been visited before, should entitle him 
to the honor of naming the same. I have been over the route 
traversed by Captain Glazier and party, and find that the map which 
he has published is a correct delineation of that section." 



From Hon. J. G. Lawrence, Ex-Senator, Wabasha : 

"I believe Captain Glazier is certainly entitled to the credit of 
having discovered the true source of the Mississippi in a lake above 
Lake Itasca, and now named Lake Glazier." 



From Judge L. A. Evans, Ex-Mayor, Saint Cloud 

" First Mayor of Saint Cloud, and have served six terms as such. 
Have resided in Saint Cloud for thirty years. I believe that Lake 
Glazier is the true source of the Mississippi River, and this is the 
opinion of the majority of the people residing in this part of the 
State." 

From Will E. Haskell, President and Managing Editor, 
Minneapolis Tribune: 

''There can be no longer any doubt, when the,question is carefully 
considered, that the credit of discovering the true source of the 
Mississippi belongs to Captain Willard Glazier. Captain Glazier's 
discovery has now become an accepted geographical fact, and future 
generations of school-boys will speak knowingly of Lake Glazier, 
ae we did in our youth of Itasca/' 



From J. O. Simmons, Little Falls . 

" Have been a resident of Little Falls for the past twenty-nine 
years; County Attorney and justice of the peace for several years; 
would state that I am personally acquainted with the half-breed 
Indian interpreter, Paul Beaulieu. Have known him since June, 1857. 
and know him to be a person of intelligence, great experience, and 
personal knowledge of the northern portion of Minnesota, which up 
to very recently has been a vast wilderness occupied only by the l^hip- 
pewas. Have often conversed with him relative to the "country north 



APPENDIX. XXXl 

©f us, and speaking of the Mississippi, have heard him say that Lake 
Itasca was not the fountain head ; that there was a stream emptying 
5ts waters into Itasca from a lake a short distance above the latter, and 
which, in his opinion, was the true source. Since Captain Glazier's 
exploration, I accept the lake bearing his name as the true source of 
the Mississippi." 

From Rev. Andrew D. Stowe, Eector, Trinity Church, Anoka : 

" This is to certify that from the testimony of Indians and Half- 
breeds living at White Earth Agency, Minnesota, during my residence 
there of two years, I am persuaded that Lake Glazier, instead of 
Itasca, is the real source of the Mississippi." 

From D. Sinclair, Winona : 

" In the autumn of 1862 I spent several weeks in that portion of 
Northern Minnesota, extending from Crow Wing to Leech Lake, and 
the country about Red Lake, in company with Paul Beaulieu, the 
well-known Indian guide and interpreter. During a conversation as 
to the source of the Mississippi, Beaulieu informed me that Lake 
Itasca was not the real source of that river, but that a smaller lake, 
located a short distance south of Itasca, was entitled to that distiuc- 
tion. After investigating the matter recently, I have no doubt of the 
genuineness of Captain Glazier's claim to be the person who first 
publicly established the fact that the lake which now bears his name 
is the true source of the Mississippi Eiver." 

From William A. Spencer, Clerk United States District Court, 
Saint Paul : 

" I have resided in Minnesota upwards of thirty years, and until 
recently have always thought that Lake Itasca was the source of the 
Mississippi ; but after an examination of the claim of Captain Glazier 
to be the discoverer of the true source, I am satisfied his claim is well 
founded." 

From 0. C. Chase, Chairman County, Commissioners, Otter-Tail 

County : 

**From information received, I am fully satisfied that Captain 
Glazier was the first person to publicly announce the true source of 
the Mississippi." 

From John J. Ankeny, Postmaster, Minneapolis : 

" From the best information I can obtain, I am persuaded that the 
source of the Mississippi had not been recognized prior to the 
published accounts of exploration by Captain Willard Glazier in 
1881. I think, therefore, he is entitled to the credit of the discovery." 

From P. P. Swenson, Sheriff, Hennepin County : 

" After a residence of thirty-two years in the State of Minnesota, 
until recently I have always supposed that Lake Itasca was the 
source of the Mississippi River. I am now well informed of its true 
source being Lake Glazier, having personally traversed that 
section of the State." 



Xxxii APPENDIX. 

From Freeman E. Kreck, Postmaster, Aitkin : 

"1 have been a resident of Aitkin County since 1881; have b«eit 
County Auditor for past two years, and for a time proprietor and 
editor of the Aitkin Age. Since Captain Glazier's explorations 1 do 
not hesitate to say that I believe Lake Glaziek to be the true primal 
reservoir of the Mississippi, and I think I voice the sentiment of the 
majority of the residents of this section." 



From A. Y. Merrill, County Attorney, Aitkin: 

"I believe that the lake claimed to have been located by Captain 
Glazier is the real source of the Mississippi River." 



From J. W. Wakefield, Aitkin : 

" Resident of Minnesota for thirty years. Personally acquainted 
with Chenowagesic. Indian trader more than fifteen years. Thorough- 
ly familiar with the Chippewa language. I recognize Lake Glazier 
as the true source of the Mississippi River." 



From Lyman P. White, Ex-Mayor, Brainerd : 

"I have been a resident of Brainerd since 1870. Built the first 
house in Brainerd. Have had charge of the town site for the Lake 
Superior and Puget Sound Company for sixteen years. I met Captain 
Glazier on his Mississippi trip, and fully endorse his claim to have 
discovered the true source of the Mississippi." 



From W. W. Hartley, Brainerd : 

" Have been a resident of Brainerd for the past fifteen years. 
Editor and publisher of the Tribune from 1875 to 1881, and post- 
master from 1879 to 1886. Met Captain Glazier and his party here in 
1881, both en route to the source of the Mississippi River, and on their 
return voyage by canoes to its mouth. Have no recollection of ever 
having heard any other than Lake Itasca claimed to be the source of 
the Mississippi prior to the Captain's expedition. Lake Glazier 
has since been accepted and is believed to be its source." 



From J. H. Koop, Postmaster, Brainerd: 

" Have been a resident of this State for sixteen years. Met Cai>tain 
Glazier at the time he made his expedition of discovery to the source 
of the Mississippi, and I recognize the lake bearing his name as its 
true source." 

From N. H. Ingersoll, Editor, Brainerd Dispatch : 

" I fully endorse the statement that Captain Glazier was the first 
to proclaim to the world the true source of the Mississippi." 



From Bev. Fletcher J. Hawley, D. D., Rector of St. PauVs Episcopal 
ChxLrch, Brainerd : 

" I have been a resident of Brainerd since 1880, and have not 
heard any one question the truth of Captain Glazier's claim to have 
discovered the true source of the Mississippi to be ia Lake Glazieb." 



APPENDIX, xxxiii 

From John F. Peterson, Register of Deeds, Minneapolis: 

" I have resided in Minnesota for the past eighteen years, and fully 
believe that LaK£ Glazibr is the true source of the Mississippi." 



From C. P. De Laithe, Superintendent of Schools, Aitkin County : 

" I recognize Lake Glazier as the source of the Mississippi River. 
Have resided in Aitkin for several years." 



From J. H. Hallett, Brainerd : 

•* I recognize the lake discovered by Captain Glazier as the real 
source of the Mississippi. Hav^e been an Indian trader for the past 
fifteen years." 

From Hon. N. Richardson, Little Falls, Judge of Probate of 
Morrison County: 

" I have resided on the banks of the Mississippi for thirty-one 
years. Met Captain Glazier at Little Falls with his exploring party, 
that visited the headwaters of this river in the summer of 1881. 
From information derived from sources that I consider reliable, I 
regard Lake Glazier as the true source of the Great River. Have 
been a member of the Minnesota Legislature for three terms." 



From. O. L, Clyde, First Lieutenant, National Guard, Little Falh : 

" I have been a resident of Northern Minnesota for twenty years, 
and always supposed that Lake Itasca was the source of the Missis- 
sippi. I never heard any thing to the contrary until the year 1881, 
when Captain Glazier explored the Upper Mississippi, and made his 
report of the same. I now recognize Lake Glazier as the true 
source of the Great River." 

From Moses La Fond, Little Falls : 

"Lake Glazier is now considered the true source of the Missis"- 
sippi. I am one of the old pioneers of this State, having resided in the 
northern section for over thirty-two years, and was a member of the 
Legislature in 1874." 

From R. CronJc, of the Government Survey, Sauk Rapids: 

" This is to certify that I was compass-man on the survey of town- 
ship 143 north, range 36 west of the 5th principal meridian, which era- 
braces Itasca Lake, (the Indian name of which I understood to be 
Omushkos or Elk Lake,) and hereby affirm that Lake Glazier is 
the only well-defined body of water emptying into Lake Itasca, and 
in my opinion is the true source of the Mississippi." 



From Hon. T. G. Healey, Ex-State Senator, Monticdlo : 

" Have resided in Monticello since 1856. I regard Lake Glazier 
as the true source of the Mississippi River, and it is now so regarded 
by the people living in this section of Minnesota." 



XxxW APPENDIX, 

From William Tubhs, Postmaster and Ex-County Auditor, 
Moiiticello : 

" Have resided in Minnesota twenty-nine years. Lake Glazieb 
is regarded by the people generally of this section as the true source 
oi'the Mississippi." 

From W. J. Brown, Principal of the High School, Monticello : 

" I consider Lake Glazii;r to be the true source of the Mississippi, 
and know of no other. I teach the same in the public schools of this 
{)lace, as also do my assistants." 



From Commander A. H. Fitch, J. S. Cady Post, G. A. P., Depart- 
ment Minnesota ; Anoka : 

" I am fully convinced that the body of water, known as Lake 
Glazier since 1881, is the true source of the Mississippi, and not 
Lake Itasca." 

From J. M. Tucker, M. D., Hastings : 

" I believa Captain Glazier's claim to being the discoverer of the 
/•eal source of the Mississippi is just, and have never heard it ques- 
tioned. It must stand as one of the facts of history." 



From Daniel O'Brien, Police Justice, Hastings : 

" I ana satisfied that the lake to the south of Itasca, located by 
Glazier, in 1881, is the true source of the Mississippi, and. that Cap- 
tain Glazier is entitled to whatever credit there is in the discovery." 

From J. R. Lambert, Ex-Mayor, Hastings : 

" It has been a generally accepted fact that Lake Itasca was the 
source of the Mississippi River, and like many others who have pre- 
ceded me in giving testimonials in favor of Captain Willard Glazier's 
claim as the discoverer of a body of water now known quite generally 
as Lake Glazier, and so represented in many of our standard 
geographical works, I cheerfully admit that Captain Glazier is 
entitled to credit as the discoverer." 



From S. Westerson, Chairman, Board of County Commissioners, 

Hastings : 

" It seems to be clearly proven that there is a lake— now called Lake 
Glazier — which is the true source of the Mississippi, discovered by 
Captain Willard Glazier in the year 1881, and that said Captain 
Glazier was the first man to make it public. The honor, therefore, 
in my estimation, is due to him." 



From B. B. Herbert, Editor- The Republican, Red Wing : 

" After a careful examination of the clai.ri made for and against 
the reputed discovery of the head of the Mississippi, by Captain 
Willard Glazier, I am convinced that he was the first to question tlie 
received statement that Lake Itasca was its source; and first to con- 



APPENDIX. XXXV 

nect the lake, which some respectable geographers have called by 
his name, with the Mississippi as its source. Having lived in 
Minnesota, on the banks of the Mississippi, for nearly thirty years, 
had any other person claimed to have discovered any other source 
than Lake Itasca, I should have beea informed thereof." 



From W. W. De Kay, Red Wing : 

"From such information as I have upon the subject, I regard the 
lake located by Captain Glazier, to the south of Itasca, as the true 
source of the Mississippi. I have resided in Minnesota for thirty- 
three years." 

From William Moore, Superintendent of Schools, Lakz City : 

"Knowing the facts in regard to Captain Glazier's discovery of the 
true source of the Mississippi, as brought out by public discussion, I 
am convinced that he is justly entitled to be considered the discoverer 
of the source of the Mississippi River." 



From George C. Stout, Mayor ^ Lake City : 

" I have no doubt that Captain Glazier is fully entitled to the honor 
of first discovery of the true source of the Mississippi River." 



From D. O. Irwin, Postmaster, Lake City : 

" I am convinced that the actual source of the Mississippi had not 
been recognized before the published account of explorations by 
Captain Glazier; and I regard Lake Glazier as the true source of 
the Great River." 



From H, L. Smith, Editor and Proprietor of the Graphic, Lake City : 

" I am fully convinced that Lake Glazier is the real source of 
the Father of Waters. Have resided in Minnesota seventeen years." 



From F. J. Collins, Mayor of Wabasha : 

"I have no doubt that Captain Glazier is fully entitled to the 
credit of having discovered the true source of the Mississippi River. 
I have resided in Minnesota thirty-one years." 



From Hon, James G. Lawrence, Ex-State Senator, Wabasha : 

" I believe Captain Glazier is certainly entitled to the credit of 
discovering the true source of the Mississippi, in a lake above Lake 
Itasca, now named after him, Lake Glazier." 



From D. L. Dawley, Principal of Schools, Wabasha: 

" I believe Captain Glazier to be the real discoverer of the true 
source of the Mississippi River." 



xxxyi APPENDIX. 

From S. B. Sheardown, M, D., Winona : 

" I believe that Captain Glazierisentitled to the credit of discovering 
the real source of the Mississippi Rirer. I have been a resident oi 
Minnesota ovei thirty-one years." 

From Judge A. F. Storey, St. Vincent : 

" I have no hesitancy in saying that there can be no question, but, 
that La££ Glazier is the true and primal soui-ce of the Mississippi 
River." 

From James A. Thompson, Postmaster, Leech Lake (the nearest 
post-office to the source of the Mississippi) : 

" I am of opinion that Lake Glazier is the source of the Missis- 
sippi. I have talked on this subject with some of the Indians who 
accompanied Captain Glazier on his exploring expedition in 1881, and 
they all say it is the last lake; that they went all the way in their 
oanoes, and could go no further. It is the general belief here that Lake 
Glazier is the true source." 



From Paul Beaulieu, United States Interpreter, White Earth 

Indian Agency : 

" I would respectfully state that according to the ideas of the peo- 
ple of this section of country, for scores of years past, in alluding 
to Lake Itasca, which is knoum only as Elk Lake by the original in- 
habitants of this part of the country, was never by them considered as 
the head or source of the Father of Running Waters, or May -see-see- 
be, as it is by them named. I received a map showing the route of 
exi)loration of Captain Willard Glazier, 1881, and being well 
acquainted with his chief guide, Chenowagesic, who has made the 
section of country explored by Captain Glazier his home for many 
years in the past, and who has proved the truth of his often repeated 
assertion, when maps were shown him, that a smaller lake above 
Lake Itasca would in time change the feature of those maps, and 
proclaim to the world that Lake Itasca cannot any longer maintain 
Its claim as being the fountain head of Ke-chee-see-ne, or Great 
River, which is called May -see-see-be, by the Chippewas. The map 
as delineated by Captain Glazier's guide, Chenowagesic, and published 
by the Glazier party, is correct ; and it is plain to us who know the 
lay of this whole country (1 mean, by us, the Chippewa tribe in par- 
ticular, also the recent explorers for pine) that Lake Glazier is 
located at the right place, and is the last lake on the longest stream 
of the several rivers at the head of the great Mississippi." 



APPENDIX. xxxvii 



V. 

RECOGNITION. 

THE discovery and final location of the source of the Grreat 
River of the North American Continent by Captain 
Grlazier has received general recognition in this country and 
in Europe, and our aim to place before the reader of this vol- 
ume, material to assist him in forming his judgment on the 
validity of the author's claim, would not be attained if we 
omitted to include in these addenda the following evidence, the 
nature and weight of which we think should carry conviction 
to the mind of every impartial critic. 

A report of the discovery was duly sent to Hon. Charles 
P. Daly, President of the American Geographical Society, 
New York, and by him forwarded to the Editor of the New 
Ycrrh Herald^ and published by that paper, accompanied by a 
map of the region explored, showing the true source of the 
Mississippi. 

A report was also sent to the Royal Greographical Society, 
London, England, and the following courteous reply received : 

" KoYAL Geographical Society, 
" London^ January 12, 1885. 
" Captain Willard Glazier, New York, U. S. A. 

" Dear Sir : — We owe you an apology for delaying so long com* 
municating with you on the subject of your interesting letter and its 
accompanying map ; a delay caused by the long summer vacation of 
our council, which commenced a little before the arrival of your 
letter. 

" I am happy to be able to send you a copy of the January number 
of the Proceedings of our Society, containing your letter and map, 
and trust you will find no error has crept in. 

"Your discovery was considered a distinct addition to our knowl- 
edge of the geography of the Mississippi basin, and well worthy of 
publication by the Society, and I am directed to thank you for hav 
iDg communicated this brief account of it to us. 
" Your obedient servant, 

" H. W. Bates, 
" Assistant Secretary and Editor.** 



George W. Melville, the famed Arctic Explorer, writes : 

ladelphia, Pennsyh 
" February 5, 18'85 



*' Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 
iDr 



Captain Willard Glazier : 

** Dear Sir : — Your very interesting paper and map of the disooTeiy 



xxxviii APPENDIX, 

of the source of the Mississippi came to hand this morning. Having 
but a single number of your paper E can form but an inadequate idea 
of your labor and patience, except by a look at your map, which is 
a very good one, and shows an immense amount of labor ; in fact I 
am astonished at the amount of work done in so short a space of 
time as is shown on your track chart. 

" I am gratified at being made the recipient of your favor ; and 
with sentiments of the highest esteem and regard for a worthy brother 
in the world of science, " I am, dear sir, very respectfully, 

"George W. Melville, 
" Chief Engineer, U. S. Navy." 

Geographers and Educational Publishers. 

Many of the geographers and educational publishers of the 
country have not only made the necessary changes in their 
maps of Minnesota, but have expressed their recognition and ac- 
ceptance of the GrLAZiER discovery in letters addressed to friends 
of the Captain and others interested in arriving at the truth of 
this important question. Among these may be mentioned : 

Rand, McNally & Company, George F. Cram, and George 
H. Benedict & Company, Chicago ; Matthews, Northrup & 
Company, Buffalo ; A. S. Barnes & Company, New York and 
Cnicago ; University Publishing Company, New York ; Charles 
Lubrecht, New York ; M. Dripps, New York; W. & A. K. 
Johnston, ^Geographers to the Queen, Edinburgh, Scotland ; 
MacMillan & Company, London and New York ; Nelson & 
Sons, New York and Edinburgh, Scotland ; Gaylord Watson, 
P. O'Shea and George H. Adams & Company, New York ; W. 
M. Bradley & Brother, Philadelphia ; School Supply Company, 
John A. Boyle, Boston ; J. K. Gill & Company, Portland, 
Oregon ; John Lovell & Son, Montreal, Canada ; Map and 
School Supply Company, Toronto, Canada ; F. A. Brockhaus, 
Leipsic ; A. Hartleben, Wein, Austria ; and many others. 

The following extracts are from Barnes' Complete Geog- 
raphy by the eminent geographer, Professor James Monteith : 
Page 4. "Record of Recent Discoveries and Events. 

" The source of the Mississippi River is Lake Glazier, a small 
lake from which water flows into Lake Itasca, which until recently 
was thought to be its source." 



Page 73. " North Central States ( Western Section), 

" Recent surveys have shown that Lake Glazier is about seven 
feet higher than Lake Itasca, into which the former discharges its 
water; and it is now recognized as the source of the Mississipj)! 
River." 



APPENDIX. xxxix 

"Maury^s Manual of Geography, University Publishing Company, 

New York: 

" Page 5Q. Minnesota is crossed by the ridge or ' Height of Land ' 
•which separates the Valley of the Mississippi from the northern slope 
of the Great Central Plain. On this elevation, 1,600 feet above the 
sea, both the Mississippi and the Red River of the North take their 
rise, the one flowing south and the other north. The crest of the 
* Height of Land * is crowned with lakes of clear water. Lake 
Glaziee, one of these, is the source of the Mississippi " 

From Herr F. A. Brockhaus, Geographer and Publisher of 

- Leipsic, Germany : 

" I shall not fail to recognize and call public attention to your im- 
portant discovery of the True Head of your Great River." 



From Professor J. W. Redway, of Philadelphia, a well-known geog- 
rapher and scientist : 

"Philadelphia, September 9, 1887. 
" Captain Willakd Glazier : 

''My Dear Sir : — . . . You will have the satisfaction of knowing that 
by your exertions and enterprise an error of more than fifty years 
standing has been made apparent. The world owes you a debt for 
determining an important question in geography. 
" Sincerely yours, 

" J. W. Redway." 



From the Messrs. Harper & Brothers, New York: 

..." Recent exploration and survey establish the fact that Lake 
Glazier has the best claim to the distinction of standing at the head 
of the Father of Waters. School Geographies generally are being 
corrected to show it." 



From Band, McNally <& Company, Map-makers and Publishers, 

Chicago : 

" As to the source of the Mississippi, we gave it considerable atten- 
tion in preparing our new map of Minnesota, and finally fixed it as 
Lake Glazier. This, we consider, has the best claim." 



From George F. Cram, Map and Atlas Publisher, Chicago : 

" I mail you to-day a copy of the corrected map of Minnesota, 
showing Lake Glazier as the source of the Mississippi." 



From Matthews, Northrup & Company, Art Printers, Buffalo, 
New York: 

" We regard Lake Glazier as the true source of the Mississippi, 
and are so showing it on all maps, etc., issued by us." 



From Messrs. Cowperthwait & Company, Philadelphia . 

" We have added Lake Glazier to our School Maps as the soiiree 
of the Mississippi." 



xl APPENDIX, 

From E. A. Lawrence, Univerdty Publishing Company, New Yorkx 

" We think Lake Glazier is important enough to outrank Itasca 
as the source of the Mississippi." 



From W. M. Bradley & Brother, Philadelphia : 

" Lake Glazier appears on our large Atlas of the World, and on 
Mitchell's Atlas, as the true source of the Mississippi." 



From John Lovell & Son, Educational Publishers, Montreal: 

" The collection of testimonials from leading citizens of Minnesota, 
and others, tells convincingly in Captain Glazier's favor." 



From, MacMillan & Company, London and New York : 

" Pray accept our very cordial thanks for your courtesy in sending 
us the map of the true source of the Mississippi. We are forwarding 
it on to our London house, who will gladly avail themselves of the 
information it conveys." 

From Gaylord Watson, Mop and Chart Publisher, New York: 

*' The source of the Mississipj^i is now fully established. It will be 
shown as Lake Glazier in future editions of my maps." 



From P. O^Shea, Catholic Publisher, New York : 

" I have come to the conclusion that Lake Glazier is the true 
source of the Mississippi, and intend to give it as the source in the 
new editions of my geographies." 



From Geo. H. Adams & Son, Map Publishzrs, New York: 

" We recognize Lake Glazier as the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi River, and believe that Captain Glazier's claim to its discovery 
is now admitted by all the leading Map Publishers of the country." 



From the Map and School Supply Company, Toronto : 

" We consider Lake Glazier the source of the Mississippi 
River, and are having it appear on all our latest maps as such." 

From Professor A. N. Busted, State Normal School, Albany, N. Y. : 

"I have been much interested in Captain Glazier's trip to the 
beginning of the Father of Waters, and feel that he has contributed 
a valuable item to the great volume of geographical knowledge." 



From Colonel George Soule, President of Soule College, New 

Orleans : 

" I recognize the correctness of Captain Glazier's claim, and shall 
teach that the source of the Mississippi is Lake Glazier." 



APPEI^DIX. xli 

From Rev. L. Abernethy, A. M., D. D.^ President of Rutherford 
College, North Carolina: 

"I am satisfied that Lake Glazier is the true source of the 
Mississippi aad that Captain Glazier is entitled to the honor of its 
discovery." 



From J. L. Smith, Map Publisher, Philadelphia : 

" Having given considerable attention to the merits of the claim 
presented by Captain Willard Glazier to have definitely located the 
source of the Mississippi, I am of the opinion that the lake to the 
south of Itasca should be recognized as the primal reservoir or true 
fountain-head of that river, and that Captain Glazier is entitled to 
the credit of having been the first to discover this fact and call public 
attention to it." 



From G. IT. Laughlin, A. M., Ph. D., President of Hiram College, 

Ohio : 

" Captain Glazier has rendered an invaluable service to the science 
of geography. I am glad that the school geographies are being 
corrected so as to indicate Lake Glazier as the source of the 
Father of Waters." 



From the firm of W. & A. K. Johnston, of Edinburgh, Scotland, 
Geographers and Engravers to the Queen : 

"You have the satisfaction of having done a great work in settling 
the vexed question of the source of your mighty river. For this, all 
interested in geography are indebted to you." 



From Charles Lubrecht, Map Publisher, New York: 

" I shall show Lake Glazier as the source of the Mississippi 
Kiver in all future editions of my Maps." 



From J. K. Gill & Co., Educational Publishers, Portland, Oregon : 

" I have read Captain Glazier's work on the True Source of ths 
Mississippi, and regard the newly discovered lake as the fountain- 
head of the Great River," 



From George H. BeTiedict & Co., Map, Wood and Photo-Engravers, 

Chicago : 

*'Lake Glazier is now acknowledged to be the True Source of 
the Mississippi, and iu the course of time will appear as such on all 
maps." 32 



xlii APPENDIX, 

From John S. Kendall, President of the National School Fur- 
nishing Company of Chicago : 

" Chicago, October 6, 1887. 
" Captain Willaed Glazier : 

" Dear Sir: — Your book ' Down the Great Eiver ' has been received 
and read with interest. I am glad to see the entire narrative in book 
form. There is no doubt about you/ expedition having added largely 
to our rather limited stock of information regarding the country 
around the headwaters of the Great River, I deem it a graceful and 
fitting compliment to give your name to the lake south of Itasca. 
" Thanking you for the book, which I have placed in my library, 
" Yours very respectfully, 

"John S. Kendall." 



From Frederick Warne & Company, Publishers, London: 

"Pray accept our very cordial thanks. The alteration in the 
30urce of your great river has been noted, and we shall gladly avail 
iiurselves of the information to make the correction in our atlases." 



From Marcus Ward and Company, Map and Atlas Publishers, 
London, England : 

" We are having the necessary alterations made in all our maps, 
ftnd future editions will give Lake Glazier as the source of the 
Mississippi." 



From M. Dripps, Map and Atlas Publisher ^ New York : 

" I will avail myself of Captain Glazier's discovery by showing on 
my future maps of the United States its True Source in Lake 

GLAZIliK." 



From T.' L. Floody Editor, The Chautauquan, Meadville, 
Pennsylvania : 

" Judging from the vast amount of evidence I have no hesitation 
in saying that I believe Lake Glazier to be the source of the 
Mississippi." 

From William Collins, Sons & Company, Publishers, Glasgow, Lon- 
don and Edinburgh : 

"We shall give effect to the discovery of the True Source of the 
Mississippi in the next issue of our maps." 



From H. L. Turner, President, Western Publishing House, Chicago 

and New York : 

" We shall at once modify our representation of the Mississippi's 
source on our maps of the country, for the reason that we fully accept 
Captain Glazier's report and claim." 



From J. R. Spaulding & Company, Miip Publishers, Boston: 
"We think Captain Glazier's claim as to the source of the 



APPENDIX. xliii 

Mississippi is correct, and Lake Glaziee will appear as the True 
Source hereafter in our publications." 



From John B. Alden, Publisher of "Alden^s Manifold Cyclopcedia " 
and "ITome Atlas of the World," New York: 

"Lake Glazier is considered the head of the Mississippi River, 
and is being taught as such in our public schools." 



From Professor John Jasper, Superintendent of Schools, New York 

City: 

" Our teachers are beginning to accept Lake Glazier as the 
source of the Mississippi." 

From E. H. Butler & Company, Educational Publishers, 
Philadelphia : 

"We would State that in our own new series of Geographies just 
published we make Elli Lalie, south of Lake Itasca, the source of the 
Mississippi. We also recognize the fact that tliis lake is called Lake 
Glazier, and we presume that the latter title will eventually be 
established." 



From T. Elwood Zell, Publisher of Zell's Encyclopedia, 
Philadelphia : 

" Captain Glazier has discovered the True Source of the Mississippi 

in a lake now bearing his name It would seem that his 

claim is undoubted." 



From Professor James Monteith, Author of Barnes' Complete 
Geography, etc.. New York : 

"The lake known as Lake Glazier is, in my opinion, the source 
of the Mississippi, and not Itasca Lake. Caj)tain Willard Glazier 
deserves great credit for demonstrating this lake to be the True 
Source. It is sometimes called Elk Lake, but I prefer to call it 
Lake Gla.zier." 



From the Moses King Corporation, Map Publishers, Boston : 

"There is a large amount of testimony in favor of Lake Gla- 
zier. Rand, McNally & Co., the map makers of Chicago ; Mat- 
thews, Northrup & Co., of Buffalo, with whom we are connected, 
and others, incorporate LAKE Glazier into their maps as the source 
of the Mississippi ; and we incline to the belief that the balance of 
opinion is in favor of this lake as the True Source." 



From Herr F. A. Brockhaus, Geographer and Publisher, Leipsic, 
Germany. Extract from a letter to Captain Glazier : 

" I shall not fail to recognize and call public attention to your 
important discovery of the True Head of your Great River." 



xliv APPENDIX, 

From Serr A. Hartlehen, a leading Publisher of Germaiiy : 

"I congratulate Captain Glazier on his important discovery of tlie 
source of the Mississippi River, and shall have great pleasure in 
bringing the subject to the notice of our Geographical Society." 



From "Alden^s Manifold Cyclopcedia,^' New York: 

" Glazier Lake (Indian name Pokegama), a small body of water in 
Northern Minnesota, the source of the Mississippi River, which flows 
from it as a stream a few feet wide and connects it with Lake Itasca, 
which lies to the northward. LAKE GLAZIER is in latitude about 
47° N. ; is 180 miles in a direct line northwest from Minneapolis, 
and not far from a mile and a half in greatest diameter. It is 
estimated to be 1582 feet above sea-level, and 3184 miles from the 
river's mouth in the Gulf of Mexico. Itasca was long deemed the 
source, until the discovery of the lake beyond by Captain Willard 
Glazier (born in Fowler, St. Lawrence Co., New York, August 22. 
1841 ; great-grandson of a Massachusetts Revolutionary soldier, and 
hirjself a soldier in the war against secession). Having heard from 
the Indians of lakes beyond Itasca, he explored the region, and in 
his canoe entered Lake Glazier, July 22, 1881. Thence he traversed 
the entire length of the Mississippi in canoes, from its source to the 
Gulf of Mexico." 



From W. Dundas Walker, Editor, Chambers^ Encyclopoedia, 
Edinburgh, Scotland: 

" I will ^e glad to take advantage of the information so kindly 
placed at '^y disposal, and congratulate Captain Glazier on his im- 
portant diooovery." 

From Professor D. L. Webster, Editor, Webster's Encyclopcedia, 

Chicago : 

"The Glazier Expedition resulted in the location of the True 
Source of the Mississippi. That ' Truth is mighty and will prevail,' 
was never better evidenced than in the event which has placed the 
fountain-head of the Great River in the lake beyond Itasca." 



The following extract from the "International Encyclo- 
paedia" places Lake GtLAZIEr first in the chain of lakes 
which constitute the head-waters of the Mississippi : 

" Mississippi River. The sources of this great river are LAKES 
Glazier, Itasca, Traverse, or Bemidji, . . . lying among hills of 
drift and bowlders in the midst of pine forests and marshes." 



From American Supplement to the Encyclopcedia Britannica : 

" The Mississippi has its source in Lake Glazier, south of Lake 
Itasca, Minnesota, 47° 34' N. lat., 95° 2' W. long. The greatest 
width of this lake is a mile and a half, and it is deeper than Itasca, 
with which it is connected by a shallow stream about six feet wide " 



APPENDIX. xlv 

From Appleton's Anmud Encyclopoedia, 1885 : 

"Lake Itasca, which has been distins^uished as the head of the 
Mississippi for fifty years, must, it seems, yield that distinction to a 
smaller lake about a mile and a half in length by a mile in width, 
lying further south, discovered by Captain Willard Glazier in 1881, 
and named for him Lake Glazier." 



From Armstrong's Encyclopmdia, Published by F. J. Schulte, 

Chicago : 

" The necessary changes in regard to the source of the Mississippi 
will be made in the next edition of my Encyclopaedia." 



Several of the Passenger Agents of our great railways whose' 
lines run through Northern Minnesota have signij&ed their in- 
tention in future to give Lake GJ-lazier its proper place on 
their railway maps and illustrated time-tables. The following 
are a few of the number : 

From E. A. Ford, General Passenger Agent, Pennsylvania Lines 
West of Pittsburg : 

" I have instructed our advertising clerK to call the attention of 
our engravers to the fact that the source of the Mississippi River 
should hereafter be shown as Lake Glazier, instead of Lake 
Itasca." 



From J. 8. Tebbets, General Passenger Agent, Union Pacific 

Railway : 

" I thank you for the information in regard to our railway map, 
and have sent instructions to our engravers to make the necessary 
corrections in the next issue, showing Lake Glazier, as the source 
of the Mississippi." 



From J. B. Wood, General Passenger Agent, The Pennsylvania 
Railroad Company: 

" We will make the correction in the next issue of the maps issued 
by this company which will cover the points mentioned by you, 
namely, Lake Glazier the true source of the Mississippi. Please 
accept our thanks." 



From .7. E. Hannegan, General Passenger Agent, Burlington, 
Cedar Rapids, and Northern Railway : 

" I shall arrange to have our map plates corrected so as to show 
the true source of the Mississippi River, and am glad you have called 
my attention to this matter." 



xlvi APPENDIX. 



VI. 

NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 

THE Press, as the most important indication and expres- 
sion of public opinion, has been almost unanimous, since 
1881, in sustaining Captain Grlazier's claim, more especially 
the Press of Minnesota ; while the majority of the leading 
papers of the East have pronounced strongly in his favor. 
We can insert here only a few notices, taken chiefly from the 
journals of the Northwest. 



Saint Paul Dispatch. 

"Captain Glazier lias just published the record of his experiences 
in his undertaking to establish that the true source of the Missis- 
sippi is not that wliieh geographers liave heretofore accepted as such, 
to wit : Lake Itasca. It is indisputable that Captain Glazier did pro- 
ceed to a higher point than any reached by previous explorers, and 
that the body of water located by him and now known as Lake 
Glazier, is a direct feeder of the generally accredited head of the 
Mississij)pi. The Dispatch has always claimed for the writer of this 
book the honor of being the discoverer of the true source of our Great 
Hiver. There certainly is a great deal in his work to substantiate his 
claim, and to sustain the attitude taken by the Dispatch. 

" . . . . Captain Glazier set out to test the correctness of the gen- 
erally accepted theories of scholars as to the place of the rise of 
this Great River; he made the test and found, as we believe, that 
those theories were not correct. He has given to the world the record 
of that work, and has done much to perpetuate his own name 
thereby." 



Minneapolis Spectator. 

"'Down the Great River,' by Captain Willard Glazier, gives an 
account of the discovery of the lake now generally asserted to be 
the source of the Mississippi; also a description of a canoe voyage 
during the summer of 1881, from the source to the mouth of the 
Father of Watfci:s. A journey of over three thousand miles by canoe, 
and on a single stream, is in itself an arduous and remarkable under- 
taking, and one seldom, if ever, paralleled. Captain Glazier presents 
not only rensonable evidence to support his claim as the discoverer 
of the true source of the Great River, but gives an entertaining and 
instructive narrative of his researches and adventures, thus aifording 
a graphic history and description of the Mississippi." 



Brainerd Dispatch. 
•Down the Great River,' by Captain Willard Glxizier, is aa 



APPENDIX. xlvii 

account of the author's voyage in 1881, from the source to the mouth 
of the Mississippi Eiver in a canoe. It is a very interesting and in- 
structive narrative from beginning to end; the descriptions of the 
scenery through which the river passes being unusually fine. In 
this volume the Captain presents his claim of having discovered 
beyond Lake Itasca another lake which is connected with Itasca by 
a well-defined stream, and consequently is the true source of the Mis- 
eissippi." 

Northwestern Presbyterian, Minneapolis. 

" All who live in the valley of America's greatest river will be 
especially interested in knowing something of its source, its course, 
and the cities that line its banks. Since De Soto first discovered the 
Father of Waters in 1541, many eminent explorers have been associated 
with its history. Marquette, Joliet, La Salle, Hennepin, La Hontan, 
Charlevoix, Carver, Pike, Cass, and Beltrami preceded Schoolcraft. 
The last named discovered a lake which he supposed to be the source, 
but the Indians and the missionaries said there was a lake beyond. A 
learned few believed them. It remained for some explorer to make 
further investigation and publish the truth more widely to the world. 
This was done by Captain Glazier in 1881, who visited the lake, ex- 
plored its shores and found it to be wider and deeper than Itasca." 

Winona Republican. 

" Captain Glazier, who has won fame as the discoverer of the true 
source of the Mississippi, has recently published a good-sized volume 
entitled * Down the Great River.' . . . Very few persons realize that 
a man who passes from the source of the Mississippi to its mouth ex- 
periences a greater variety in scene, in populations, and in climate, 
than would an explorer going from the source to the mouth of any 
other river in the world. . . . The narrative of Captain Glazier is 
interesting, because it gives a panoramic view of the Mississippi from 
its source to its mouth, describing the appearance of the river wher- 
ever tributaries enter, and noting the character of the Indians, fur- 
traders, pioneers, frontiersmen, and the agricultural and commercial 
communities along its course. There is, too, a spice of personal ad- 
venture in such a journey, because for the greater part of the trip 
the Captain was accompanied by only one other person, and the 
novelty of riding in a canoe over every mile of one of the greatest 
rivers in the world, in itself gives a peculiar character to the record 
of the journey. The story is simply the narrative of life in a canoe 
floating down the Mississippi, supplemented by such historical recol- 
lections and reminiscences as have seemed appropriate to one who 
is an enthusiast in the history of exploration " 



Minneapolis Star-News. 

" On the 22d day of July, 1881, the traveler and author. Captain 
Willard Glazier, discovered a silvery lake nestled among the 
pineries of Northern Minnesota and situate about a mile and a half 
to the south of Lake Itasca. He also discovered that a swift current 
flowed continuously from his new-found wonder to what was supposed 
to be the source of the F.-ther of Waters. The lake is known to the 
Indians as Pokegama, and when it was reached by th« Glazier party 



xlviii APPENDnu 

they were mncfe surprised by Chenowagesic, an ludiaa chief, wko 
had accompanied tbem as guide, addressing Captain Glazier as fol- 
lows: 

" ' My brother, I have come with you through many lakes and rivers 
to the head of the Father of Waters. The shores of this take are my 
hunting ground. Here I have had my wigwam and planted corn for 
many years. When I again roam through these forests, and look on 
this lake, source of the Great River, I will look on you.' 

" Captain Glazier was induced to explore the true source of the Mis- 
sissippi by Indian traditions which he had picked up while traveling 
across the continent and which denied Schoolcraft's theory of Itasca. 
. . . Fortified with the idea that Schoolcraft was in error he set out 
to discover the true source of the Father of Waters, and how he suc- 
ceeded forms the subject of the first five chapters of his very interest- 
ing book. The remainder of the book, an interesting and instructive 
volume of nearly five hundred pages, is devoted to a trip 'down the 
Great River' to the Gulf of Mexico. To Captain Glazier is due all 
the honor and glory of discovering to modern geographers the true 
source of our great river." 

Detroit Commercial Advertiser. 

"*I>own the Great River' is Captain Willard Glazier's interesting 
record of his expedition in 1881 in search of the source of the Missis- 
sippi River. It is a very exciting narrative from beginning to end, 
is profusely illustrated and will be especially interesting to students 
of geography, as well as to all interested in matters of exploration 
and discovery. Captain Glazier undoubtedly accomplished a great 
work. The source of the Mississippi had ever been an unsettled 
question, unsatisfactory attempts at discovery having been made and 
various ill-founded claims put forward ; but the subject for the last 
half century has been constantly agitated. It remained for Captain 
Glazier to finish the work begun by De Soto In 1541, and positively 
locate the true fountain-head. . . . That the lake from which the 
Great River starts, known by the Indians as Lake Pokegama, should 
be re-named Lake Glazier, seems an appropriate honor for the 
resolute explorer " 



La Crosse Republican and Leader, 

" ' Down the Great River' is the title of a book just issued which 
possesses many claims to popular favor. No one on the North 
American continent will be at a loss to identify the river by its title ; 
the Amazon undoubtedly discharges a larger volume of water into the 
sea, and the Volga is claimed to be longer. No river in the Old or 
New World is surrounded by so many associations, or is so identified 
with the memories of discoverers and adventurers, warrior-priests and 
saintly soldiers, peaceful pioneers and devastating armies, as the 
Mississippi. .... For half a century Lake Itasca has been accepted 
as the fountain-head of the Great River, but Captain Glazier having 
had reasons for doubting the correctness of that theory, undertook, in 
1881, to verify or disprove it, and the book treats of his adventures 
on that mission and his subsequent voyage by canoe down its entire 
length from its source to its mouth, a distance of three thousand one 
hundred and eighty -four miles. . . . The voyage, embracing as it 
does over seventeen, degrees of latitude, furnishes material for the 
description of strojgly contrasted scenery and greatly diversified 



APPENDIX. x]Jx 

industries, and in depicting these the Captain has the pen of a ready- 
writer, simple and concise. . . . ." 

Michigan Christian Advocate. 

"'Down the Great River' is a book of great current interest. It is 
packed full of things people ought to know. Not only is there a full 
and well-written account of the finding of the true source of the Mis- 
sissippi, but a wonderful amount of fact and Incident picked up along 
its shores from its headwaters clear down to New Orleans and the 
Gulf of Mexico." 



Detroit Tribune. 

"This interesting work gives an account 3f the discovery of the 
true source of the Mississippi River, by the author. From the first 
page to the last the book teems with information and topographical 
and geographical data to be found nowhere else. Captain Ghizier 
carries his readers along with him from the source of the mighty 
river down through a stretch of over three thousand miles clear 
into the salt Avaters of the Gulf of Mexico. The author made the 
trip in an open canoe, and as he proceeds downwards discourses 
pleasantly upon the features of the landscape, the characteristics of 
the people and the important towHs upon the banks of the Great 
River." 



Grand Eapids {Michigan) Leader. 

Lake Itasca has been the accredited head of the Mississippi for 
fifty years, and the author's desire to pursue further investigations 
into the great north country was due to conflicting reports^ published 
by other navigators and explorers of discoveries made in that region. 
He decided to investigate the matter personally. The author de- 
scribes in an entertaining manner the incidents of each day a» the 
journey proceeded towards Lake Itasca. Here a careful survey of 
the lake was made for feeders, several of which were found, and 
up the largest of which the party forced their way through a strong 
barrier of rushes. After a short passage a body of water was ion ml 
which the Indians called Lake Pokegama, but which the CajUain's 
companions named Glazier in honor of the head of the ex|)e(li- 
tion. They then floated down the river in their canoes to the Gulf, 
and the events of each day form very interesting and often thrilling 
chapters as they are described by the author." 



New Bedford Standard. 

"In 1881 Captain Glazier made a canoe voyage of over three 
thousand miles from the headwaters of the Mississippi to the Gulf 
of Mexico, and this book gives an interesting account of the voyage, 
together with a description of the cities and villages along the 
river banks, not omitting important historical events or quaint bits 
of legendary lore. While the book is of special value to the young 
student of geography and history, it is none the less valuable to all 
who are interested in geographieal science, partieularly in the 
question of the source of the Mississippi River " 



1 , APPENDIX. 

Madisonensis, Madison University, Neio York. 

*' Captain Glazier has commanded the attention of educated men 
generally by asserting and satisfactorily proving that he has al last 
discovered what De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, Schoolcraft, and other 
explorers, were unable to lind — the true source of the Mississippi. 
The journey of exploration is here minutely described, and the ac- 
count is enlivened with bright narratives of personal experiences. 
The author is an able writer, and a keen critical observer, and the 
information collected, pertaining to the people and country along 
the course of the Great River, from its headwaters to the Gulf of 
Mexico, is of value to everj' student of our country's history. The 
book is more than a mere description of an expedition — it is an 
epitomized collection of historical, geographical and commercial 
matters interesting to all." 



Hamilton, New York, Republican. 

..." The important fact brought out is, that Lake Itasca, diseoy« 
ered by Schoolcraft in 1832, and by him located as the fountain-head 
of the river, has no just claim to that title. Glazier's expedition has 
brought public notice to another lake at a remoter distance from tlie 
mouth than Itasca, which is united to the latter by a constantly 
flowing stream. . . . It now seems that the prominence Itasca has 
had so long must hereafter be given to Lake Glazier." 



Davenport Tribune. 

" This work embraces an account of the discovery by the author of 
the true source of the Mississippi. It is an interesting tale of how 
Captain Glazier and his party pursued a voyage in canoes up the 
stream which flowed into Itasca, and finally located the real source of 
the river in a new lake, which was named by his companions Lake 
Glazier. The work is a valuable one and highly instructive, and 
should be read by all residents of the Mississippi Valley." 



Daily Eagle, Grand Rapids, Michigan. 

... "It seems most surprising that it should have been reserved 
for so recent a date as 1881 to discover the true source of the greatest 
river of our continent, especially within the borders of a territory 
that has been a State for nearly forty years. But such is the 
fact, and to Captain Glazier belongs the honor of the discovery among 
iT^hite men." 



Telegram-Herald, Grand Rapids, Michigan, 

... " Captain Glazier, in his search for the true source of the 
Miesissippi, has corrected a geographical error of half a century, and 
located the fountain-head in a lake above and beyond Lake Itasca. 
He discovered this lake on the twenty -second day of July, 1881, 
Chenowagesic, a Chippewa brave, being his guide. The lake, out of 
which flows the infant Mississippi, is about two miles in its greatest 
diameter. Its Indian name is Pokegama, but Glazier's companioni 
insisted on naming it after their leader." , . » 



''' '. 'V^^L ^* Until Ciajr^ traced back from "Lake^Itasc^ the 

peretinial stream that stipplted- it from a more distant lake, called by^ 
the Ihdians PoX-eg'ama, and beybild which there is no further supply' 
to the^ Father of Waters, Itasca was considered its source. . . . July^ 
twelfth; 1881, Glazier left Bjaln'erd," Minnesota, on his mission, reach- 
ing Leeeh Lake July Seventeenth. Thence the expedition proceeded 
we^twaird 'by little l^kes iarid' streams and portage on the 

twenty -first they carajjed on Schoolcraft Island, in Lake Itasca, and" 
then "paddling through this lake away, as supposed, from the Mis-, 
sissippi, ail's by Eagle C>-eek,ihe next aa;y they found what is' now, 
and will hfereafter be known as, Lak!e GlaziER, the ultimate source 
of |the mighty Mi§sis§ij?M/ 

Youngstown (^OMo) Telegram. 

"A pamphlet, entitled ^the -True- Source of the Mississippi,' by 
Pearce Giles, has reached'tis.' ' 'li proves very clearly that not Lake 
Itasca but LAKE' QlazieEj? a; lake just to the south of it, is the true 
source of the mighty central river. The best part of the discovery 
seems to be that Captain Glazier so explored the. country about this 
lake that thete is no possibility of another discovery of a connecting 
lake beyond it/; OneJik:es to have such matters settled definitely." = 



^aU6n(^tM^puoUcan,W ;, 

■ . . . " "the birfhplape of the Father of Waters is not Lake Itasca, 
as generally received, but LAKE GlazieIi, iU its vicinity, which, by 
asmall stream, flo^^s'iii to Itasca. Lake Glazier, so named from 
its discoverer. Captain Willard'Glazier, has three feeders. Eagle, Ex- 
celsior, ahd Deer creeks. This latest geographical claifn is supported 
by ample testimony from highest and widespread authorities. Th^ 
story of adventures during the exploration "which had'so important a 
feSult, is exti'emely interesting." 



^ubkqueTi'ad6 Journal. 

" On July twenty-second, ISSlpGaptain Willard Glazier dispelled 
the geographical error of half a. century which has placed Lake Itasca 
on the maps as the source of the Mississippi. Strange as it may seem, 
tHere is scarcely a .'wilder region on this continent than exists in 
Northern Minnesota, arid it hAs so remained in spite of the explora- 
tions of Beltrami, ISichbolcraft^:andKiicollet, who, perhaps, ought to 
have been. a littlemore e'xhanstive in: their efforts when on the same 
depeuded the designatioii; of the actual.:;: source of a great river. 
Nevertlieless, at the date above imentioiiedy Captain Glazier, at the 
head fef a small but indomitable band, emerged from Lake Itasca, and 
theb'rch-ljark canoes of the party wsere u^rged^ against a strong current 
arid a .bulwark; of rAishes,; through; a-stream seven feet wide and three 
deep, until the clear waters of another lake came in view. The great- 
est diameter of this new body of water is about two miles, its feeders 
are traceable to q^rings bnly, -and hence it is unquestionably the 
primalsouree whence the Fathecof Waters-starts on kis long journey 
of;8,184 miles tO'tlieJSulf ©flMe^co»?'^^^->♦: ,- - - ^ -. '^ .....?.._; 



m 



APPENDIX. 



Burlington Hawkeye. 
**In the summer of 1881, Captain Willard Glazier, well known as 
ft popular writer, made a remarkable canoe voyage from th« source 
of the Mississippi down its entire length to the Gulf of Mexico. Prior 
to starting on this unprecedented voyage, he organized and led an 
expedition to the headwaters of the river in Nortliern Minnesota, with 
a view of setting at rest the vexed question as to the true source of the 
mighty river. Captain Glazier and his party left Saint Paul, duly 
equipped with canoes and commissariat, July Fourth, 1881, and 
arrived at Lake Itasca July twenty-first. Thence, by the aid of his 
Indian guides, he penetrated to another lake beyond Itasca, and 
connected therewith by a s'treaui which is a continuation of the Mis- 
sissippi, and at that point is simply a narrow creek. The lake thus 
entered by Captain Glazier he claims to be the true source of the 
Father of Waters. Lake Glazier now appears on the maps as the 
source of the Great River." 



Saint Paul Times. 

. . . "Captain Glazier's claims are supported em phaticallv by the 
overwhelming testimony of thousands of the most dlstiiignished and 
competent authorities in the Northwest. Glazier undoubtedly ex- 
pended much time and treasure in investigating not only the source 
of the Mississippi, but the geography and history of the entire river, 
from its source to the Gulf. . . . The leading map publishers have 
endorsed his claims, and do so in a way that leaves no doubt that thev 
place implicit confidence in him as a careful and trustworthy 
geographer and historian. Rand, McNally & Co., and George F. 
Cram, of Chicago; Matthews, Northrup & Co., of Bufialo; A. S. 
Barnes & Co., of New York ; University Publishing Company, of New 
York; W. & A. K. Johnston, of Edinburgh, Scotland; MacMillan & 
Co., London and New York; W. M. Bradley & Brother, Philadel- 
phia, and many others of the leading publishing houses, who have a 
heavy personal interest in investigating the accuracy of everything 
they publish, acknowledge Captain Glazier's claims by accepting his 
views, and reproducing them in their books and maps. The press, 
bar, pulpit, and legislature of the State of Minnesota give unqual- 
ified assent through many of their leading members, to the position 
of Captain Glazier " 



Chicago Time*. 

" The most interesting portion of Captain Glazier's * Down the 
Great River' is the beginning, where the author gives the details of 
nn expedition made in 1881 by himself with five companions, when 
he claims, with good grounds, to have fixed the actual, true source 
of the Great River. His attention was called in 1876 to the fact that, 
though everybody knows the mouth of the stream, there was then 
much uncertainty about the source. In 1881 he found time to or- 
ganize the expedition named, and crossing th« country to Itasca, em- 
barked and pushed through that lake up a stream flowing into it, 
and came uf>on another considerable body of water fed by three 
streams originattwg in springs at the foot of a curved range of hills 
some miles further on. This lake he fixed upon as the true source, 
and since his published accounts many geographers and map-workers 
have modified their works according to his discoveries, fie does not 



APPENDIX. liii 

rTaim to be the actual discoverer of the lake, as snch, but oaly to 
have beeu the first to discover and establish the fact that it is the 
highest link in a chain in which Itasca is another; or, in other words, 
the true source of the river. The Indian name of the lake is Pokf' 
gama, and this, the author says, he would have retained, but was 
overruled by ,th6 other five, who insisted on calling it Lake 
Glazier. For the particulars of the interesting story the reader 
must be referred to the volume itself. Captain Glazier is an old 
traveler i^nd a practised writer. The manner of his journey down 
the Mississippi enabled him to see well all there was to see, and he 
enables his readers to see also." 



Chicago Inter-Ocean. 

"Readers of 'Soldiers of the Saddle,' 'Capture, Prison-Pen and 
Escape,' and other writings of Captain Glazier will require no urg- 
ing to read the entertaining volume * Down the Great River.' It is 
an account of the discovery of the true source of the Mississippi 
River, with pictorial and descriptive views of cities, towns and scenery 
gathered from a canoe voyage from its head waters to the Gulf. 
For fifty years American youth have been taught that ' the Missis- 
sippi rises in Lake Itasca,' until Captain Glazier, in this memorable 
journey of one hundred and seventeen days in his canoe, demon- 
strated the error and mapped the facts so accurately as to settle the 
question for all time. Leading geographers and educational pub- 
lishers have already made changes in their maps and given due 
credit to Captain Glazier and his new lake. To say the Mississippi 
rises in Lake Glazier is only doing simple justice to the intrepid 
explorer and hero of many battles. The book is charmingly writ- 
ten, mainly in the form of a diary, and contains facts of great value, 
80 interwoven with incidents and fine descriptions and novel adven- 
tures as to be as interesting as the best romance. One could scarcely 
find better history or finer descriptions or be more fully impressed 
with the breadth and length and grandeur of American possessions 
than by journeying with Captain Glazier in his canoe down the 
grand river of the continent. The voJume is handsomely printed 
and bound and well illustrated." 



Chicago Evening Journal. 

" However the knowledge may aflFect the world at large that the 
Bource of the mighty Mississippi is other than generations of geog- 
raphy students have been taught that it was, there is little doubt left 
in the reader's mind, after perusing Caj>tain Willard Glazier's ' Down 
the Great River,' that we have all been in the wrong about it, and 
that this most peerless river was born, not in Itasca's sparkling 
springs, but in another wider and deeper lake that lies still further 
south and bears the name of its discoverer, the author of this in- 
teresting volume of exploration and adventure. There is somethirug 
charming in the simple thought of an expedition such as the one 
undertaken by Captain Glazier. Imagine long, silent days of abso- 
lutely unbroken communion with Nature! Slipping aloag in a frail 
canoe, without the sound of an uncongenial human speech, of clang- 
ing bells or grating wheels, through circling hours of unbroken 
calm, with only the swish of bending reeds and lapping waters to 
break the hush and remind one of a sentient world. Perhaps th« 



Atithor an^' bis liidiajl guided* occasiotiMly @xeM'n|ed, a \t'6rd/ or iftfe; 
two white companions aiid himself iifdtilgediii -ar liSifil^H tliat started; 
the rattling echoTes of the hills, but there was no chatter, no twaddle, 
no dissensions. The 'narrative> rea^s like a stAry. 'Keadirig it, one 
longs to start foi^ LAKE Glaziek to-morrow, and thence qlesce;i-di rig, 
haltnot in his l^ng course until 'his faithful canoe slips out into the* 
waters of the Southern Gulf, three thousand miles^ away. A man 
With '* soul' in~ him W(3uld I'athef tdke sUch a^ trip Hvith all its hard- 
ships and its perils than go^pn a hundred ' cut-and-dried trips to; 
Europe, t The book i&ii'kuJ^mely bound jand well illustra,ted." ^ ; 



r^QMiOfga SefttMi 



.f^''^ 



"For half a century dr iaov^ it tol'Beeii undeMood'thftt La&e 
Itasca was the source of the Mississipipl ' Ri'yer, but Captain Willard; 
Glazier has exploded this theory by a canoe voyage undertaken in ■ 
1881. The results of his investigations were given to geographers at; 
the time and accepted as satisfactory; and compl'ete. Maps were at- 
once changed by the map publishersy and Lake Glazier, a tribu-J 
tary of Lake Itasca, was set down as the true source of the 'Father 
of Waters.' The story of Captain Glazier's adventures is told by"' 
him in a book entitled 'Down the Great River,' which is entertaiil- 
ing as well as being of importance as a contribution to the geog-' 
raphy and history of this country. Together with two companions; 
and several guides, Glazier first discovered that the lake now bearing' 
his name was the true source of the Greai River, and then journeyed 
by canoe from that point to the mouth of the Mississippi, a distance" 
of 3,184 miles. This trip occupied one hundred and seventeen days^ 
and was attended with various haps and mishaps and numerous ad- 
ventures of an exciting clmracter. It is hot easy from a mere book" 
deseriptioji to realize the extent and importance of such a trip as; 
that mad« by ■Captain Glacier. More than a hundred days of rough- 
ing it along Jone*!;%f; the* greatest Waterways in tlie World could not 
fail to be productive of much that Would interest even a casual' 
reader, and as Captain Olazief is an e^xperienced traveller and a* 
skilled writer, he has made the most of liis opportunities." '- ■' 



Springfield {Ohio) Times. 

"The latest book from the pen of Willard Glazier, the well-known 
soldier-author, is entitled ' Down the Great River.' It is a work of great 
geographical and historical value, and settles beyond perad venture 
the disputed qnestion of the true source of the Mississippi. Aside; 
from its scientific value, the work is a charmingly entertaining nar- 
rative of the thrilling adventures and amusing ihcidents of a canoe 
trip over the whole length of the Mississippi from its source in the 
cold regions of the North to Where it rolls .nto the ocean over the' 
burning sands of the Gulf coastv It is highly instructive and inter- 
esting in its graphic descriptions and character sketches, depicting 
the varied human nature, local customs, and folk-lore that find habita- 
tion aloBg the banks of the Great River. The book is well worth 
the perusal of every one, and an American;library without it would ,: 
be incomplete" - - ..;-■;.■«:/« ^? -a «^;..-^ ...... ,-i\ .,..,..,.«., i ... , 



APPENDIX. Iv 

Ohio State Journal. 

" It seems strange that for nearly fifty years up to 1881, no new 
thing had been discovered concerning the great Mississippi, whose 
iource in the vast wilderness of the Northwest was supposed to be in 
Lake Itasca. In that year, however. Captain Willard Glazier, ari 
adventurous spirit, determined to finally solve the mystery of the 
source of the ' Father of Waters,' and also to navigate its entire 
length from source to sea. Accordingly he traced with infinite hard- 
ship the narrowing stream above Itasca until its true source was 
finally reached in what is now known as Lake Glazier. Then, 
turning about, he floated down the constantly growing stream until 
its mighty volume was emptied into the Gulf of Mexico. Of this 
great trip, replete with adventure and abounding in incident, he has 
given a most graphic and interesting account under the title of 
'Down the Great Kiver.'" 



The Wheeling Intelligencer. 

" Captain Glazier's name is familiar to the reading public of 
America through his earlier works, * Soldiers of the Saddle,' * Capture, 
Prison-Pen and Escape,' * Battles for the Union,' * Heroes of Three 
Wars,' ' Peculiarities of American Cities,' and ' Ocean to Ocean on 
Horseback." His latest book, * Down the Great River,' is his most 
important essay in the field of literature, and is in several respects 
unique. It is a very interesting account of a remarkable cauoe voy- 
age from the head waters of the Mississippi to the Gulf; but its 
iTnportance comes from the fact that, until this voyage was made, the 
.source of the Mississippi was universally placed in Lake Itasca, 
whereas Glazier and his party demonstrated that a higher basin, now 
put down in all the new maps and geographies as Lake Glazier, is 
really the primary reservoir of the Mississippi. It seems almost 
incredible, but is nevertheless true, that for over forty years previous 
to 1881, when Captain Glazier made his discovex'y, it was accepted as 
settled that Lake Itasca was the remotest body of water from the 
mouth of the Mississippi. The falsity of this theory, however, has 
been established and an important discovery given to the geographi- 
cal world. No discovery rivaling this in interest and importance has 
been made on the American continent for half a century." 



Philadelphia Public Ledger. 

" By the discoveries of Captain Willard Glazier, made in 1881, 
Lake Itasca is dislodged from its former eminence as the source of the 
Mississippi, the real head- waters of that mighty stream being traced 
to Lake Glazier, a distance of 3,184 miles from the Gulf of 
Mexico." 



Brooklyn Eagle. 

"Captain Glazier's very clear map of the Great River shows the- 
True Source to be south of Lake Itasca, accepted by Schoolcraft in 
1832 as the head- waters in disregard of the stream entering its south- 
western arm. ... To Captain Glazier belongs the identification of 
the fountain-head of the Mississippi." 



Ivi APPENDIX, 

Philadelphia Times, 

" Captain Willard Glazier has lately discovered the True Source 
>f the Mississippi, which is not in Lake Itasca, hut in another lake to 
ihe south of it, and succeeds in proving his discovery to the satisfac- 
tion of the most competent judges, to wit, the geographers and 
educational publishers of the country. These accept the new source 
by placing it on their maps and calling it after its discoverer, 
* Lake Glazieb.' " 



New York Observer. 
" To Captain Glazier is undoubtedly due the honor of tracing the 
Father of Waters, the great American river, up to its real source in 
the network of lakes that occupies the central and northern portion 
of the State of Minnesota." 



Minneapolis Journal. 
"... That what is now known as Lake Glazier is the True 
Source of the Mississippi River ; and that to Captain Glazier is due 
the credit of firat placing the fact before the public by accurate chart 
and maps, is unquestionably true." 



Philadelphia North American. 

"The True Source of the Mississippi is settled beyond controversy. 
Glazier's name will hereafter be classed with those of De Soto, La 
Salle, and Hennepin, whose names are forever associated with the 
Great River which divides the United States." 



Philadelphia Inquirer. 

^'Several years ago Captain Glazier, while meditating upon the 
exploits of De Soto, Marquette, Father Hennepin and La Salle, the 
heroic old explorers, who led the way to the Great River of North 
America, regretted that, although its mouth was discovered by the 
Chevalier La Salle nearly two hundred years ago, there was still 
much uncertainty as to its True Source. . . . The discovery and 
final location oi the source of the MJBsissippi has now received gen- 
eral recognition in this country atid Europe, and there certainly 
seems to be no doubt of the validity of Captain Glazier's claim. 
His account of the discovery is very entertaining reading." 



Brooklyn Citizen. 

" In this work,* Down the Great River,' dedicated to Hon. Charles 
P. Daly, President of the American Geographical Society, Captain 
Glazier gives the story of his journey in a canoe from tlie head- 
waters of the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of 3184 
miles, dur ng tlie summer and fall of 1881. He claims also to have 
discovered the True Source of the * Father of Waters,' which was 
for many years supposed to be Lake Itasca, in Northern Minnesota. 
He found another lake beyond Itasca, connected with the latter by 
a narrow stream (the infant Mississippi/, and this lake being without 
a name, his companions christened it Lake Glaziek, after their 
leader. The two lakes are not far apart, but the author claims that his 
lake receives the contributions of more streams than Itasca, and tlie 



APPENDIX, Ivii 

latter is, therefore, clearly not entitled to the credit of standing at the 
head of the river. 

" The Captain is a careful observer.and a clear and pleasing writer. 
He tells his story in a straightforward manner without undue orna- 
mentation. He has studied the accounts of previous voyages, and 
also the history of the country through which the great stream runs. 
The wars of Indians, English, French and Spanish along its banks 
come in for their due share of attention ; the cities and towns are 
described, and much miscellaneous information is given." 

New York Daily Graphic. 

"It will probably be news to a great many people that the source 
of the Mississippi has, up to a very recent date, been a subject of 
controversy between those best informed on the subject. Yet such is 
the case, and here is a volume putting the matter at rest for ever. It 
is * Down the Great River,' by Captain Willard Glazier, and dedi- 
cated to Hon, Charles P. Daly, LL. D., President of the American 
Geographical Society. Some few years ago Captain Glazier carried 
out a long cherished plan for tracing to its source the Mississippi 
River, being convinced that the generally accepted Itasca lake was 
not, properly speaking, that source." 



Philadelphia Leisure Hours. 

" * Down the Great River ' is not only a very entertaining work, 
but an important addition to the geographical history of the western 
and southern portion of the United States. The discovery of the 
Mississippi is very generally ascribed to Ferdinand De Soto. The 
True Source of the Great River seems to be fully proved, and many 
able authorities are quoted, showing that Captain Glazier's claim to 
have properly located it U well established. We believe that a 
sound and enlightened conclusion, after a careful reading of the 
work, will be given in favor of the discovery that the True Source 
of the Mississippi is in LAKE Glaziee, 3184 miles from its mouth, 
in the Gulf of Mexico." 



New York Christian Weekly, 

" * Down the Great River.' The great significance of this book is 
in the fact that it establishes the claim of Captain Willard Glazier 
as the discoverer, in 1881, of the True Source of the Mississippi 
River., That source, so long supposed to be in Lake Itasca, is now 
conceded by the press and by geographers and educational pub- 
lishers, to be in a lake to the south of Itasca, now known and 
printed upon the maps as Lake Glazier, in honor of its discoverer. 
Canoeists will enjoy the story for its own sake, but a large portion 
of the reading public will take marked interest in this compara- 
tively recent discovery, which is corroborated by the declarations 
of Indians and pioneers, and is of value to the entire geographical 
world." 



New York Home Journal, 

" When, in 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft made his exploration 
33 



Iviii APPENDIX, 

of the headwaters of the Mississippi, and located its source as Lake 
Itasca, no further work of exploration was deemed necessary. In 
1881, however, the question of the fountain head of the Great River 
was revived, and the author of this volume, on a journey of explo- 
ration, discovered the True Source to be a hitherto unrecognized lake 
to the south of Itasca. This lake is about a mile and a half in 
diameter, its altitude 1585 feet above the ocean, and is described as a 
charming little body of water. Against Captain Glazier's protest, 
his companions formally christened it by his name in recognition 
of his services. The discovery has met with the wide attention and 
consideration it deserves. Steps have been taken by the chief educa- 
tional publishers to correct the error which their maps have hitherto 
borne. * Down the Great River ' is dedicated to the Hon. Charles P, 
Daly, LL. D., President of the American Geographical Society." 



Popular Science Monthly. 

" In ' Down the Great River * Captain Glazier relates the story in 
full of his journey in 1881, by the aid of an Indian guide, 'Across 
Country,' from Brainerd, Minnesota, to * Lake Glazier,' south of 
Itasca lake, and his determination of it as the real source of the 
Mississippi River. . , . Lake Glazier is in latitude about 47° 
N. ; is 1585 feet above the level of the sea, and is 3184 miles from the 
Gulf of Mexico. Its area is less than that of Lake Itasca, but it is 
deeper and contains more water than the latter. ... The story 
of the explorer's journey is very pleasantly narrated." 



Boston Commonwealth. 

" Captain Willard Glazier, whose writings are so widely and 
favorably known, achieved probably the most lasting reputation in 
1881, when he made his expedition to the source of the Mississippi. 
The results of that expedition he put in a book called 'Down the 
Great River.' Starting from St. Paul on the 4th of July, 1881, 
equipped with canoes and accompanied by Indian guides, he set 
forth with the object of ascertaining if, Lake Itasca were really the 
source of the ' Father of Waters,' as had been so long supposed. 
He reached Lake Itasca, and after a careful examination of this lake, 
discovered that it was not the head of the river, but that there was a 
lake still higher up, to which he pushed on with his canoes through 
a narrow inlet. This lake has since been known by the name of 
its discoverer, * Lake Glazier,' and has been accepted by geograph- 
ical authorities as in reality the True Source of the great American 
River." 



New York Students* Journal. 

"All interested in the geography of our country will enjoy read- 
ing ' Down the Great River,' by Captain Willard Glazier — discoverer 
of the True Source of the Mississippi River. This discovery is one 
of the most important contributions to the geography of this country 
during the past half century. It seems marvellous that, up to the 
year 1881, the geography of one of the States of the Union was so 
poorly known that it had hitherto been supposed that Lake Itasca 
was the source of the great ' Father of Waters.' The narrative of the 



APPENDIX. lix 

canoe trip from Lake Glazier to the Gulf of Mexico is told in an 
exceedingly interesting style, and will repay the reader of the five 
hundred pages." 



New York Christian Intelligencer. 

" Captain Glazier knows the charm there is in records of personal 
adventure, and so, in order to write of the Great Eiver, the Missis- 
sippi, he sailed its length, and by beginning at its source, and making 
the voyage in a canoe, he has combined novelty and personal experi- 
ence with description and statistics, and produced a most interesting 
narrative. In carrying out this plan of exploration from the source 
to the mouth of the Great River, he has further -established that tlie 
Mississippi has its source, not as the geograpliies state, in Lake 
Itasca, but in a more distant lake, called by the Indians, Pokegama, 
and which is now known as Lake Glazier, after its discoverer. The 
discovery was made in July, 1881, and is now well established. The 
volume which tells of it, and of the history and shores of the 'Father 
of Waters," down which the Captain paddled, is, like all his books, 
of fascinating interest and full of information." 



New YorJc Christian Nation. 

" Strange as it may seem, the True Source of the Mississippi was 
not known until 1881, but was erroneously supposed to take its rise in 
Lake Itasca, until that well-known traveler and popular writer, 
Captain Willard Glazier, took it into his head that the first end of 
the long river was not really known. And as Columbus resolved to 
discover a new world, so Captain Glazier determined to find the real 
source of the Mississippi. He set forth in the month of IMay, 1881, 
from New York to the ' far west' to put his long cherished theory to 
the test, and with what result the world was made acquainted at the 
time by the public press. Many men have worked and schemed for 
years to gain fame, but Captain Glazier, iu the heroic discharge of a 
self-imposed duty, in 117 days made his name immortal. His book, 
* Down the Great River,' gives a most graphic and readable descrip- 
tion of the journey from source to sea, or in other words from Lake 
Glazier to the Gulf of Mexico." 



Boston Home Journal. 

" It has remained for an intrepid explorer of these days of great 
scientific discoveries, to correctly solve the problem of the source of 
the * Father of Waters,' and the result of his adventurous expedition 
he has given to the world in a volume of remarkable interest, entitled 
* Down the Great River.' The author of this book and hero of the 
discovery is Captain Willard Glazier, late of the Second New York 
Cavalry, and author of several very popular books about the War of 
the Rebellion, in which he made a brilliant record, and suffered 
much in the prison-pens of the South. . . . The claim of Captain 
Glazier to have been the discoverer of the source of the Mississippi is 
now fully established." 



Ix APPENDIX, 

Boston Traveller. 

" In 1881 Captain Willard Glazier determined to test his theory 
and that of several other geographers, that Lake Itasca was not the 
real source of the Mississippi, and undertook an expedition fraught 
with innumerable hardships, but successful in establishing the 
correctness of his belief. For beyond Lake Itasca and connected 
with it by a stream, he found another lake nearly as large as Itasca, 
and which proves to be the True Source of the Great Eiver." 



Biddeford Standard. 

" * Down the Great River * is an interesting record of an expedition 
made in 1881, in search of the source of the greatest river on the 
North American continent. Captain Glazier has undoubtedly ac- 
complished a great work. The True Source of the Mississippi has 
for a long time been an open question, various attempts having been 
made to discover it, and numerous ill-founded claims having been 
put forward. From the evidence given in this record of his expedi- 
tion, and the testimony of those acquainted with the matter, there 
can be no doubt of the validity of Captain Glazier's claim." 



Albany Argus. 

" Captain Willard Glazier, known as the writer of a number of 
popular works, made an expedition in 1881, in search of the source 
of the Great Mississippi. He started from Brainerd on the Missis- 
sippi and crossed the country to Leech Lake. Here on July 17, he 
launched his canoes and paddled through the Portage River and a 
chain of small lakes lying to the west of Leech Lake. With a few 
detours he reached Lake Itasca, which had heretofore been popularly 
assumed to be the source of the river. Coasting around this for 
tributaries he found a creek due south that connected with a lake 
about a mile and a half in diameter. To this, the only feeders were 
three little streams that scarcely deserved the name of creeks, which 
rose in the sandhills five or six miles away. As this seemed to meet 
the geographical requirements, being the most distant portion of 
tributary water from the mouth, it was accepted as the True Source, 
and the Indian name, Pokegaraa, changed to Lake Glazier. 
Many maps have adopted this nomenclature. After having settled 
the primal object of the expedition to his satisfaction. Captain Glazier 
and his companions began a cruise down the mighty river to its 
mouth in the Gulf, occupying 117 days in the journey of 3184 miles." 



Waverley Magazine. 

" , . . A careful investigation of the lakes and rivers which con- 
tribute their waters to the infant Mississippi convinced Captain 
Glazier that Lake Itasca must waive its claims in favor of another 
lake further south. . . . This lake, which was named after its dis- 
coverer, is described as being one of the gems in nature's diadem. A 
mile and a half in length by a mile in width, its shores present fine 
wooded steeps, picturesquely broken by a rocky promontory. The 
waters of the lake are supplied by tributary streams or feeders, 
named in the order of their importance, Eagle, Excelsior and Deer 
Creeks. By uniting these in one common reservoir, Lake Glazier 



APPENDIX, Ixi 

has «o fully established its right to be recognized as the True Head 
of the Mississippi, that geographers and scholars have adopted its 
discoverer's belief." 



Kennebec Journal. 

** . , . To Captain Willard Glazier belongs the honor of having 
located the True Source of the Mississippi in 1881, in a lake beyond 
or to the south of Lake Itasca. The companions of his expedition 
named the newly discovered source Lake Glazier, which it now 
retains in our maps and geographies." 



St. Louis Christian Evangelist. 

" ' Down the Great Eiver ' is not only interesting but is highly 
instructive, . . . The author of this work has found the True 
Source of the Mississippi, which is named by the map loakers, Lake 
Glazier. . . , The story is full of information and of thrilling 
incidents." 



Quincy Journal. 

" The author of ' Down the Great River,* Captain Willard Gla- 
zier, has discovered the real source of the Mississippi River in one 
of the lakes near its supposed head — Lake Itasca. . . . The dis- 
coverer has established the correctness of his claim by Actual 
Survey." 

Louisville Courier-Journal. 

"'Down the Great River' records the discovery by the author, 
Captain Willard Glazier, of a lake to the south of Lake Itasca, 
which he argues with much plausibility is the True Source of the 
Mississippi." 

Muscatine Tribune. 

"'Down the Great River * embraces an account of the discovery 
of the True Source of the- Mississippi River by the author, in 1881. 
For many years the geographies have designated Lake Itasca as the 
source of the Father of Waters, but Captain Glazier was not satis- 
fied with the statement and determined to investigate the matter. 
He found that the source of the Great River was in a lake beyond 
Itasca — since named Lake Glazier. The book is of great interest 
to all Americans." 

Philadelphia Sunday Dispatch. 

, . . "In 1832 Henry Rowe Schoolcraft reached Lake Itasca, 
but failed to search for its feeders and thus missed the discovery of 
the True Source of the Mississippi. Jean Nicolas Nicollet readied 
the same point four years later, and was satisfied that his journey was 
successfully concluded. Nothing further was done for forty-five 



Ixii APPENDIX, 

years, during which time it was believed that Lake Itasca was the 
source ; but Captain Glazier pushed his explorations further, and by 
following a feeder of Lake Itasca was rewarded by discovering, to rhe 
south of Itasca, a beautiful body of water a mile and a half wide. 
This was the True Source. His labors were promptly recognized by 
various learned societies and by scientists and geographers, and to- 
day, the lake, which bears the name of the discoverer, is acknowl- 
edged to be the primal reservoir of the Great Eiver." 



The Geographical News, Chicago. 

" Mississippi River. . . . The real facts in the case are that all 
the investigations made since Captain Glazier's discovery tend to 
show very conclusively that the True Source of the river is in the 
lake lying a short distance south of Itasca ; and that Glazier was the 
first who discovered and proclaimed the source to be in that lake. 
This being the case, it seems but just that the honor of the discov- 
ery should no longer be withheld from him. At all events oui 
school geographies should teach the truth as to where the source 
really is." 

Philadelphia Evening Telegraph. 

" It appears quite clear that Lake Itasca never possessed any title 
to the honor conferred upon it by Schoolcraft, in 1832, of giving 
birth to our magnificent river. One reason alone is given to account 
for our ignorance of its True Source, namely: it was outside the 
usual track of the fur-traders, and in a region scarcely ever visited 
by Indians or white men. Schoolcraft had pronounced Itasca to be 
the source, and no one up to the date of Captain Glazier's explora- 
tions felt sufficiently interested in the matter to investigate or dis- 
pute its claim. ... 

" It was long suspected that the Mississippi had its fountain-head 
higher up than Lake Itasca, and in July, 1881, an expedition led by 
Captain Willard Glazier discovered a lake to the south of Itasca, a 
mile and a half in diameter, and falling into the latter by a perma- 
nent stream. Beyond this there is no water connected with the river, 
and hence Lake Glazier is now recognized as the True Source or 
the Mississippi." 

Davenport Tribune. 

" * Down the Great River ' embraces an account of the discovery of 
the true source of the Mississippi, which it will be remembered 
replaced Lake Itasca in 1881, as the fountain-head of the Great 
River. It is an interesting tale of how Captain Glazier and his party 
pushed their canoes up a narrow stream which flowed into Itasca, 
and finally discovered the real source of the river in a lake which 
was named by his companions Lake Glazier. The book describes 
the Indians of the days of yore, and the source of the Father of 
Waters. Then begins a very interesting narrative of a canoe voyage 
down the Great River, and a description of the cities that dot its 
shores. Minneapolis, St. Paul and Fort Snelling are sketched, fol- 
lowed by pen-pictures of Lake Pepin and La Crosse. Davenport 
comes in for considerable attention, and among the mjiny fine illus- 



APPENDIX. Ixiii 

trations is one of the magnificent railway bridge here. The yarious 
points of merest, including Black Hawk's Watch Tower, are depicted 
iu detail. Then the tour continues down the river, and Burlington 
Cairo, Memphis, Vicksburg, New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and the 
trult as far as Port Eads, are each described and illustrated. 

Down the Great River ' is dedicated to Judge Charles P. Daly 
President of the American Geographical Society, and the discovery 
ot the true source of our Great River is authenticated by the highest 
geographical authorities in this country and Europe " 

CONCLUSION. 

The reader who is interested in the question discussed ia 
this Appendix has, we venture to assert, found ample evi- 
dence to justify the author of "Down the GtREAT Kiver " in 
his claim to have been the first to locate the veritable source 
of the Mississippi. The testimony is of such a character that 
it is impossible for an impartial critic to arrive at any 
other verdict than that the fountain-head of the Father of 
Waters is not in Lake Itasca, but in the lake to the south of 
it, now known as Lake Glazier. The declarations of the 
Indians and pioneers in the vicinity of the source of this river 
are altogether corroborative of Captain Grlazier and his com- 
panions ; the press of Minnesota speaks with but one voice, 
while geographers and educational publishers are almost unani- 
mous in their recognition of the facts developed by his expe- 
dition. 

HUBBARD BROTHERS, 
Publishers of ''Dovm The Great Ewer J* 

Philadelphia, April 30, 1888. 



